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nopro

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Everything posted by nopro

  1. I have a complete Ikelite system I was thinking of selling. Let me know if your still interested.
  2. I got tired of unthreading my strap and went shopping for a new one. All the quick release straps I found used plastic buckles that left a small strap and part of the buckle in the way. I could not find any of the older straps that I had years ago with the metal hooks on the end. I purchased four small j-hooks made of plated metal and threaded them on to end of two plain straps. I now have two quick release straps that work great on my gear. You need to be sure to hook them from the camera side out so the mouth of the hook is away from the camera. They haven't put a single scratch in my camera.
  3. I think it might be useful shooting macro with a little surge. I would just switch to manual focus and time the shot for the point of best focus.
  4. Just got my new computer running and checked the thread. Quite a few new things to consider. I usually shoot raw + jpg. The pictures were 14 bit raw files converted in photoshop elements 6.0 without adjustment so I could see what I actually shot. I no longer have the original jpg files to compare because I wrote over them with the photoshop files. So now I need to know if Photoshop even handles 14 bit files and if I should load the Capture NX & viewer software. I never bothered with my Canon because I also have a high end Nikon point & shoot for my wife and for times I didn't want to take my dslr out of the housing. Too much software already. Thanks for all the thought provoking feedback.
  5. Yes I started underwater with Sealife cameras for several years then used the Canon for a year. The Canon XTi does a great job underwater. I converted to the Nikon to push myself to the next level. I know it can far surpass by capability. Always striving to improve.
  6. My thanks to everyone for your feedback. I was shooting raw + jpeg. What you see is the uncorrected photo converted without adjustment in Photoshop elements 6. I don't notice the low contrast on land photos but the subject is in fairly dark water 65 ft down with 20-25 ft vis is really only lit by the modeling lights and flashes. It seems like I got more contrast with the canon but it did use scene files to add contrast in the camera. I haven't set up shooting banks or made any significant adjustments in the D300 yet. I have enough flash power to increase the f stop and improve the DOF. The only reason I would have increased the shutter speed was if I had more available light to worry about. Could part of this be motion blur from the shooter or subject movement? I didn't think it was a problem with the low natural light level.
  7. I recently upgraded from a Canon XTi to a Nikon D300. I had a year to learn the Canon and was getting fairly comfortable with it. After my first dives with the D300 I'm uncertain why I'm unhappy with these photos. Every shot seems soft and low on contrast. The dive conditions were fair for Hood Canal, 20 - 25 ft visibility in 50 degree water. I'm in my drysuit so already limited in handling my Ikelite housing with two DS-125 strobes. I'm not sure if this is my settings, the conditions or a little fogging. I wasn't using any desiccant but have some on order. I noticed a little condensation inside the housing but didn't see any on the lens or port. The first shot was with a Nikon 60mm macro behind a flat port. It was shot with TTL flash, 1/60th @ f/8. I used ISO 200, center weighted metering, continuous focus on 21 point around my initial focus point, adobe RGB. The second shot was with a Nikon 12-24mm @ 24mm behind a 6" dome port. It was shot with TTL flash, 1/60th @ f/11. I used ISO 200, center weighted metering, continuous focus on 21 point around my initial focus point, sRGB. I was getting as close as I could and would appreciate any suggestions about improving sharpness and contrast. Images hosted by freeimagehosting.net
  8. The housing and port are still available and are a great setup for a Canon XTi. The Canon camera on ebay has sold.
  9. I tried the lens (dry) with an Ikelite 6" port and housing and +4 diopter. The regular zoom clamp fit it but I found when I zoomed all the way out there was a lot of port and lens shade showing in the picture. I never put it in the water and decided it wasn't the lens for my setup. The lens moves about 1.7 inches as it zooms out. It might be fine in your port but I would check it for the full zoom range before diving with it. The lens moves about 1.7 inches as it zooms out.
  10. I recently purchased a Nikon D300, so I'm upgrading my underwater housing as well. I'm selling my Ikelite housing (#6871.40). I’m including an Ikelite 5503 - 6†dome port as well. The housing and port are less than a year old and work great. There are some minor cosmetic scratches that have no impact on performance. I included a picture taken on my last dive so you can see how it performs. This is a great steup for anyone looking to get into real underwater photography or advance your underwater snapshots to the next level. If you add an Ikelite flash you get full e-ttl 2 exposure control. No more over or under exposed shots. You can quickly switch between full automatic exposure, aperature priority, shutter priority or manual control for those creative shots you always wanted to take. You can shoot jpg and raw files so you get photos that are ready to view or you can color correct and edit with the raw files if you need to. This housing takes the full line of Ikelite ports so you aren't limited to just one lens either. And the best DSLR feature of all, NO SHUTTER LAG, when you push the button you get what was in the viewfinder. No more shots of what was there before it moved. This setup sells for $1600 but I'm only asking $1100 $1000 including shipping to continental US. If you need a camera and lens to go with it I have it listed on ebay I can accept credit cards via Paypal from a verified account. If you follow my ebay link you will see a have a good sellers reputation with 100% feedback score.
  11. I got the 16-85mm behind a 6" dome port today. Looks find on land when it's zoomed in. When I zoom all the way out I see lots of the dome shade. The lens travel between 16mm and 85mm is about 1.7 inches (4.3 cm). It might work fine with an 8'' dome but it's not what I was hoping for. I don't plan to put it in the water. I think I'll stick with the Nikon 12-24mm and 60mm macro for now.
  12. I have an extra DS-125 that's less that a year old. I recently had one drop shipped to me on a dive trip and got the orriginal replaced by Ikelite when I got back from the trip so I have three. make me a resonable offer and I can take payment through paypal by transfer or credit card.
  13. Are you in the USA? I may know of a slightly used one about to list on e-bay but they perfer not to ship international. It's less than a year old but is the DS-125 strobe only.
  14. Sorry about the typo in the title. I just got the new Nikon 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II AFS DX and wondered if anyone has had the chance to try it. I think it might be a good choice with a dedicate Nikon 60mm f/2.8G ED AFS Micro-Nikkor for times I know I want to shoot macro.
  15. I 'm looking for the right underwater lens to put on a D300 in an Ikelite housing. I carried 3 ports and lenses for my old Canon. Now I'm having problems figuring out how to get all the Nikon stuff in my Pelican case. I thought I would try to narrow it down to two lenses and ports. I have a 16-85 I just got to use topside and wondered if anyone has used it under water. If it works should I try to carry it and a 60 mm macro or would you suggest two better choices?
  16. I have a 400D Ikelite housing and am not bothered by moving the arpeture/exposure knob on and off detent to switch comand from Arpeture to shutter control. I have had some low light auto focus tracking problems but I'm not sure how much of this is me and how much is the camera. I recently switch to a Nikon D300 but haven't housed it yet.
  17. You don't mention what type of gear you are using. I have taken many pictures in water between 42 - 50 degrees F. I know it works with my Canon Xti and with the Sealife cameras. I have seen many other cameras in the same conditions. The main issues are battery life which may produce fewer pictures than you are use to, fogging of the camera and autofocus problems due to visibility and low light. I never worry about the camera. I make sure the batteries are freshly charged, put moisture absorbent in the housing and use two strobes. You don't mention the other big issue. Be sure your diving equipment is rated for cold water. I learned the hard way that not all warm water equipment is good for cold water. You need a heavy wetsuit or a dry suit. Both will require more weight so be sure you have a BC with enough lift. We have seen divers with warm water BCs have trouble getting up from depth and have to drop some weight because of life capacity problems. The other big issue is your regulator. Be sure it is good for cold water. I personally replaced my first regulator with an environmentally sealed regulator immediately after experiencing a free flow problem at 100 feet. So be sure to check with your local dive shop and ask them to evaluate your gear. I now dive 10 to twelve months of the year in the cold waters of Washington, Idaho and British Columbia. There are plenty of great sights to record. Happy & safe diving You don't mention what type of gear you are using. I have taken many pictures in water between 42 - 50 degrees F. I know it works with my Canon Xti and with the Sealife cameras. I have seen many other cameras in the same conditions. The main issues are battery life which may produce fewer pictures than you are use to, fogging of the camera and autofocus problems due to visibility and low light. I never worry about the camera. I make sure the batteries are freshly charged, put moisture absorbent in the housing and use two strobes. You don't mention the other big issue. Be sure your diving equipment is rated for cold water. I learned the hard way that not all warm water equipment is good for cold water. You need a heavy wetsuit or a dry suit. Both will require more weight so be sure you have a BC with enough lift. We have seen divers with warm water BCs have trouble getting up from depth and have to drop some weight because of life capacity problems. The other big issue is your regulator. Be sure it is good for cold water. I personally replaced my first regulator with an environmentally sealed regulator immediately after experiencing a free flow problem at 100 feet. So be sure to check with your local dive shop and ask them to evaluate your gear. I now dive 10 to twelve months of the year in the cold waters of Washington, Idaho and British Columbia. There are plenty of great sights to record. Happy & safe diving
  18. I had a few problems when I first changed from a 350D to a 400D. The EOS utilitiy for both versions would conflict and the old version wouldn't download the 400 correctly. I removed both versions and just reloaded the new version. I also had to set Adobe Photoshop elements not to download. Now the download window opens when I connect the camera to the computer. It will place a copy of both JPG & CR2 file in the \pictures\year_month_day folder. I also had to download a new plugin for adobe because the orriginal version won't open a CR2 from the 400D. Everything now works fine.
  19. I do around 50 dives every year and half of them are solo dives. I only take pictures for fun so I'm not forced to dive in any situation. The basic rules I use are familiarity and comfort. I won't dive a questionable (difficult site) alone the first time I'm there. I have two pony bottles to choose from depending on depth and conditions (13 & 19). I don't use a pony if I'm staying above 50 to 70 ft. I practice pony accents occasionally so I know what to expect if something goes wrong at 100 ft. Remember your air consumption increases when something is wrong. If you don't feel safe in the specific situation you should skip the dive or have an experienced buddy with you. If in doubt don't, it's better to miss the shot that the next dive.
  20. SOLD Thanks Wetpixel for connecting me with the people who would be most interested in my equipment. I'm looking forward to taking some pictures with my Canon EOS XTI. I'm sure I'll have many questions to post about how to get the best use out of my new equipment. I've already read many fine comments.
  21. I'm still trying to sell this and will include the camera, soft case, 1 Gig SD, card 2 batteries, charger, manuals and software.
  22. I have a just released Ikelite 6182.50 housing for the Nikon Coolpix P5000 10 Megapixel Digital Camera. I got the Nikon this year for Fathers day and ordered a the housing with a 9523.32 Dual Handle and Tray Assembly (Without quick release). The housing sells for $500 and the handle for $75. I used these once and decided to order a DSLR housing for my Canon 400D instead. The housing works fine but isn't the right choice for the diving I do. I spend most of my time in the cold murky waters of the Pacific Northewst. I need to sell the housing and Dual Handle assembly. I plan to keep the p-5000 but could be persuaded to include it for the right offer. This is a TTL housing and also comes with a flash deflector to use with optical flashes and a flash diffuser to use with the internal flash for closeup shots. You can check out the housing specs at http://www.ikelite.com/web_two/nik_p5000.html All reasonable offers considered. I'LL pay shipping WITHIN THE U.S. Payment via Paypal is acceptable. email scuba_greg@yahoo.com
  23. I've been an avid amatuer photographer since the days of bw labs in my basement. This might give you an idea why I have bi-focals in masks. I converted to a Canon digital rebel XT and an XTi for above water shooting. I currently use a Sealife DC-500 underwater. I find it to limiting in both pixels and battery capacity. I dive lots of cold dark Pacific Nowthwest water. Even on warm water boat dive one battery is only good for the first dive. I'd love to get an Ikelite housing for my 400D and enjoy the freedom. The only concern is the viewfinder. Would I be better to get a Canon G7, Nikon Coolpix P5000 or something in that range instead? I understand every diver is different but would like to enjoy better underwater shots for the few years of diving I still have. (first dive was in 1967) I would love to hear from divers who can raelly guide my upgrade.
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