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Bob_W last won the day on February 1 2020

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About Bob_W

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    Moray Eel

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    Southeast Florida

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  1. The back button lever on the Nauticam housing depresses the AEL/AFL button. If you google how to set up BBF on an OMD EM10iii you'll probably get results for the Mii, but it should be the same. Watch a couple of the videos. Bob
  2. Kudos to Mike Bartick of Crystal Blue Resort, Philippines. He is the local distributor in this part of the world for the Backscatter Mini-Flash. He texted with Backscatter and received authorization to replace my unit. Can't get any better than that! Bob W
  3. Well, 15 minutes into my first dive to use the my mini-strobe, it failed. Bummer!! The focus light is turning off, so the strobe is triggering and processing the signal, but the flash tube isn't flashing. And to make matters worse, I took both Inons off my rig as I so wanted to jump into the mini. Everybody else was set up 1 and 1. I got to be a looker for the rest of the 1st dive and all of the 2nd. Really felt crazy swimming around with nothing in my hands. So back to using the Inons for the rest of the trip and starting the warranty process as soon as I get home. But at least the half dozen shots I took of the pygmy seahorse before it failed look pretty good, considering it was my first attempt with the mini. I didn't even get the chance to try the snoot. Bob W
  4. Brant, Phil is a member here. He brought a couple of prototypes home from DEMA to test for the article. Backscatter only started shipping orders late in December, so it'll be hard to find anyone with more experience with them than Phil, unless they work for Backscatter. Mine was delivered the 1st week in January and I plan to give it a workout next week in the Philippines, barring anymore activity from Taal. If you have any questions about the Mini, send Phil a PM. Bob W
  5. Phil Ruden did a review of the Mini Strobe/Snoot in the January issue of Underwater Photography Magazine at http://www.uwpmag.com/. Quite detailed. Bob W
  6. Have you tried using a q-tip and cleaning the port hole where the fiber optic cable plug in? Might have some scuzzy in there. Also, fire the camera with no fiber optic cables attached and observe the ports. Is the flash equally bright on both sides? Bob W
  7. Will sell separately: Nauticam 4.33 inch Dome Port NA-36132 - $425 Panasonic Lumix Fisheye 8mm lens for 4/3 camera. H-F008 - $600 Free shipping to US addresses. Bob_W
  8. For Sale: Nauticam 4.33 inch Dome Port NA-36132 Excellent condition (Like New) - Has only been in the water 3 times. Includes neoprene cover, port cap and o-ring. Panasonic Lumix Fisheye 8mm lens for 4/3 camera. H-F008 Excellent condition (Like New) - Has only been used 3 times. Includes lens and port caps, nylon carry sack. Price $1000 for both. Free shipping to US addresses.
  9. I don't believe the problem is one of setup, but rather inconsistency of the TTL converter. For example, a series of shots of the same subject yields widely varied results. Some overexposed, some underexposed, some right on. Also, same subject, varying the aperture, one would expect the TTL to do the compensation and provide very similar results. Nope, results all over the place. And for some strange reason, everything works fine on the bench. Given that everything made falls within tolerances, and that 2 devices that have to work together can be at the extreme, opposite, ends of their tolerances. So it's possible that that is what's happening here. I've considered trying a different camera body to see if that makes a difference. I just don't happen to have a spare D500 body laying around. So for now, for us, the converter remains unreliable and only used in the manual position. Bob W
  10. As I looked back through this thread that I started 2 1/2 years ago, I found it interesting to read all the suggestions to 'solve' the problem. In reality, they weren't solutions, but workarounds. According to Sea & Sea, the solution was 'Don't do that!. Neither the YS-D1, nor YS-D2, was designed to sync above 1/200'. My point was to make others, who might be experiencing the same problem, aware of Sea & Sea's official position. And to know that they are not alone. I solved my problem by getting rid of the YS-D1 strobes. Pavel is experiencing excellent results using the Nauticam/UW Technics TTL converter. But like everything else, Your Mileage May Vary. We have found that TTL converter (but the correct part number for D500) to be completely unreliable when using it with a Nikon D500 in a Nauticam housing. So much so that we have gone through 3 different TTL converters, and it's still not working correctly. A number of friends, and someone we met on a trip to Indonesia, have had similar experiences. And when he sent his rig in for service, he was told that according to Nauticam (JP), 'No one is having this problem'. I wonder if Pavel's TTL converter is one that he built? But discussion is good and we all keep learning things. Maybe we can't use them today, but will, hopefully remember them when we need them. Bob W
  11. Unless you're using a tripod, wouldn't thumb-button and rocking achieve the same result? Lock on subject and rock until the rhinophores are sharp? Bob W
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