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Bob_W

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Bob_W last won the day on October 6 2017

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About Bob_W

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  1. I don't believe the problem is one of setup, but rather inconsistency of the TTL converter. For example, a series of shots of the same subject yields widely varied results. Some overexposed, some underexposed, some right on. Also, same subject, varying the aperture, one would expect the TTL to do the compensation and provide very similar results. Nope, results all over the place. And for some strange reason, everything works fine on the bench. Given that everything made falls within tolerances, and that 2 devices that have to work together can be at the extreme, opposite, ends of their tolerances. So it's possible that that is what's happening here. I've considered trying a different camera body to see if that makes a difference. I just don't happen to have a spare D500 body laying around. So for now, for us, the converter remains unreliable and only used in the manual position. Bob W
  2. As I looked back through this thread that I started 2 1/2 years ago, I found it interesting to read all the suggestions to 'solve' the problem. In reality, they weren't solutions, but workarounds. According to Sea & Sea, the solution was 'Don't do that!. Neither the YS-D1, nor YS-D2, was designed to sync above 1/200'. My point was to make others, who might be experiencing the same problem, aware of Sea & Sea's official position. And to know that they are not alone. I solved my problem by getting rid of the YS-D1 strobes. Pavel is experiencing excellent results using the Nauticam/UW Technics TTL converter. But like everything else, Your Mileage May Vary. We have found that TTL converter (but the correct part number for D500) to be completely unreliable when using it with a Nikon D500 in a Nauticam housing. So much so that we have gone through 3 different TTL converters, and it's still not working correctly. A number of friends, and someone we met on a trip to Indonesia, have had similar experiences. And when he sent his rig in for service, he was told that according to Nauticam (JP), 'No one is having this problem'. I wonder if Pavel's TTL converter is one that he built? But discussion is good and we all keep learning things. Maybe we can't use them today, but will, hopefully remember them when we need them. Bob W
  3. Unless you're using a tripod, wouldn't thumb-button and rocking achieve the same result? Lock on subject and rock until the rhinophores are sharp? Bob W
  4. MIL - Micro 4/3 Interchangeable Lenses camera. Also known as EVIL - Electronic Viewfinder Interchangeable Lenses. The Olympus O-MD Series, for example. Bob W
  5. The E-M5 II will also do 'electronic zoom'. Not jump, zoom. The 1fish/3fish setting on page 67 jumps between 12mm and 50mm. On page 66 of the manual, set camera to assign function to each arrow. On page 68, set a button function to Electronic Zoom (for example Up Arrow). When using the camera, press to assigned function button to activate Electronic Zoom. Then use the arrow keys to zoom in or out. In the upper right corner of the display you will see the setting of the zoom: 12mm, 20mm, 27mm, 45mm, whatever. See Item 12 on page 19. Bob W
  6. I just received a 39 scope cap. It is NOT the correct size. The outside dimension of my 45 VF, with the rubber eye piece, is 53mm. It looks like size 33 (30330) is more appropriate. Shame on me for not measuring first. Bob W
  7. There is a discussion in the 'Unrequited Gear Lust' forum (http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=60185) that is especially pertinent to folks here using 45 degree viewfinders on their rigs. The electronic viewfinders on mirrorless cameras are susceptible to being damaged if left in the sun. Like burning a leaf with a magnifying glass. The discussion talks about using a Butler Creek rifle scope cap to protect the optics. The caps flip up for use, then down to protect. The size for the Nauticam 45 VF appears to be 39/30390 and is available from various sources for $8.00 to $20.00. I cross-posted this here because I rarely view the Gear Lust forum and just happened to stumble on this subject. I thought it would be of benefit to other Mirrorless followers that also usually skip the Gear Lust thread. Bob W
  8. Underwater mode (1-fish/3-fish) will 'jump' between 12 mm and 50 mm, but it will also change the aperture and speed to some predetermined settings (not configurable). Using the mode switch to switch from, and back to M will return the settings to the ones you have previously set and leave the lens in the zoom in or out position. Not very user friendly. Better, and easier, way is to set up 'electric zoom'. Hit the left arrow to activate. The use up and down arrows to zoom in or out. Upper right corner of the display will show zoom setting. Aperture and speed will not be affected. Bob W
  9. Which Olympus camera do you have? Yours may have electric zoom capability. Or, if not full zoom, the ability to jump from 12 to 50. Bob W
  10. Thanks Sascha. This one won't work on my E-M1 housing. Bob W
  11. What housing did you use this on? Bob W
  12. My other half is using the CMC-1 on a Nauticam/D500/60mm Macro setup with excellent results. Bob W
  13. Strobes have been sold. Thanks for looking, Bob
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