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About eatmor18

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    Sea Nettle
  1. As an owner of both, I can say the DK-21M is certainly compatible with the D70. It does not require any adapters. B&H's recommendation for the DK-22 adapter is dead wrong. You could hook the DK-22 to your D70, or the DK-21M, but not both at the same time. I think the confusion might come from the fact that back in the good ol' days, pre-DK-21M, we D70 owners were using the DK-17M with a modified DK-22 to hold it on. I do hear of glasses wearers complaining about the extra eye relief making the DK-21M unusable. Even with my naked eye pressed against the back of the magnifier, I sometimes lose sight of the corners of the viewfinder, which I don't mind at all. I think you're right to assume that it won't fit inside the Ike housing. Good thing it has its own magnifier built-in!
  2. That's correct, they're certainly not using the same sensor. The similarities are that they are essentially the same overall dimensions, and they are both using the SuperCCD HR pixel layout (though different "generations" as Fuji calls them). Yet to be determined is which will hold more detail in those high-ISO shots. My money is on the F50, MikeO is betting on the F30.
  3. I knew somebody would misunderstand this -- I should've gone back & edited it. On a particular sensor, all of the HR pixels are the same size, as opposed to SR pixels, where you have big & little pixels mixed together in the same camera. So, no, the F50's sensor is not larger than the F30's. They're the essentially same overall size, and thus, each F50 pixel is half the size of a F30 pixel.
  4. Yeah, except this is NOT a SuperCCD SR (Super dynamic Range), it's a SuperCCD HR (High Resolution). All of the HR pixels are the same size. The F30 had 6 million of them, the F50 has 12 million of them.
  5. Why do you all think that this is an interpolated 12 megapixels? Everything I'm reading is leading me to think that there really are 12 million dots on the sensor. With past versions of their SuperCCD HR sensor, the number of detectors on the sensor was called "effective pixels," and the larger interpolated size was called "recorded pixels" and/or "output resolution." Fuji is now saying that the F50 has 12 million "effective pixels," and DPReview says it has 12 million "sensor photo detectors." Sounds very real to me. So now each F50 pixel is half the surface area of those famous F30 pixels. My bet is that the noise will STILL be lower in an equivalent print.
  6. Look back at my original specs... Not only can it focus at 1cm at wideangle, but it can also do 4cm at telephoto. So really, I don't think any diopter would be necessary or even make sense.
  7. Frankly, this should be taken for granted in 2007. Anything above supermarket $49 cameras can do this. The variation from camera to camera is now the compression algorithm. In this case, the 1G/GX100 uses regular old motion JPEG, which should fill about 70 megabytes per minute (14 minutes per gigabyte). There's a 20-sec sample of the video at the bottom of this page: http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews_ric...lio_gx100_3.php
  8. Right, should've clarified -- the LED device in the hotshoe will be TTL. The Sea & Sea literature explicitly pushes its compatibility with their YS-110's TTL slave system. Cool stuff. And now that I say that out loud, I guess that will mean that it won't work for those G7 & P5000 photographers, because its pin configuration won't match the Canon or Nikon hotshoe. Sad.
  9. Sadly, I was not given any idea when the DX-1G will arrive. My guess is that the sales rep didn't know. I checked closer, and yes, there will be an LED device that sits in the camera's hot-shoe. Hopefully it's something that can be purchased seperately for those G7 & P5000 photographers. Thanks for all the feedback on the flat/dome issue. It has certainly clarified stuff for me.
  10. Wow, lots of good stuff here to reply to... James, I hope you understand why I'm trying to remain somewhat anonymous in this thread. My boss has been less than thrilled with other online discussions I've had where I've included my camera store's name, regardless of how benevolent the discussions were. I do see how my "promotion" here might look odd -- that's not my intention here. I'm simply thinking outloud about a camera that just might become popular in the next few months, and why it's intriguing to me. So here's evidence that I'm not astroturfing for Sea & Sea: I kindly disagree with you that S&S products are somehow easier to shop for. Is Granny going to understand this? http://www.seaandsea.jp/products/digital/d...systemchart.gif In my conversations with customers, I've never been asked for a system where accessories could be picked out easily. I've also never seen hesitation with mis-matched brands (e.g. Fantasea arm between Epoque strobe & Canon housing with S&S fiber optic). I think that "systematic" is an advantage on paper, but I see little carryover to the marketplace. As an aside, our shop carries the S&S "Islander" & "Sport" packages, where you get the 8000G along with a strobe & arm, and I personally have never sold one. I also disagree that 10mp is "too much." Granted, these current high-megapixel tiny-sensor cameras are not massively better than their 5mp 2004 equivalents, but they are certainly no worse. To see for yourself, here's a searchable set of 38,000 photos from the GX100: http://www.flickr.com/cameras/ricoh/caplio_gx100/ You're right that there could possibly be a miniature LED "strobe" that could sit in the camera's hotshoe to provide that quick-recycling triggering. And while we're on that topic... Dave, you misunderstand the issue with slow recycling. It's not the external strobe that you're waiting for - it's the camera's built-in flash that takes so long. Since the built-in flash is generally blocked and/or too weak to reach the subject, the camera will choose to dump its full power with essentially every shot. Not only does that kill your shot-to-shot time, it drains the camera's battery faster. Avoiding having to fire that built-in flash is one of the main reason a lot of my customers request TTL systems (e.g. G7, SP-350, P5000). It moves the "continuous" mode from unusable to usable. Also, Dave, you're over-simplifying things when you say (redundantly) that the AF speed & shutter lag are the only things matter. Re: wide-angle... I still don't clearly understand how the flat port renders the 24mm lens "ineffective." The stuff about vignetting makes perfect sense, of course, but I was thinking that 24mm might be just wide enough for some folks to avoid dragging along an add-on lens. If it's not, then I don't see the problem attaching the 0.6x S&S lens & zooming in a notch or two. The designers might have had that in mind, because the S&S rep quoted a "16mm-equivalent" view once you attach their wide lens. That would be 27mm * 0.6. Can anybody point me toward a non-SLR dome port? I didn't know such a thing existed, but several of you have brought up this camera's lack of a dome port. What am I missing? And finally, Lndr, the DX-8000G certainly is a Ricoh. Namely, it's the Ricoh GX8.
  11. Educate me - why? Edge sharpness issues? Found another reference to this new camera online: in Japanese: http://infocmx.exblog.jp/6344884/ Google translation: And a photo swiped from that site: Stuff to note: The two circles directly above the lens port are the attachment sockets for fiber-optic sync cables. I'm starting to wonder what on earth the S&S rep was referring to when he described an "LED" that would trigger those external strobes... I see nothing on the GX100 behind those sockets. I think the knob on the upper-right will manipulate the diffuser for the pop-up flash. The photo that the rep showed me had the white diffuser filling in the flash window.
  12. Yes, we're all on the same page re: megapickels -- I should've put the "10 mp" spec down at the bottom of the list. But, if you want to put the F31 up against this new Sea & Sea, here are some of the other important factors, if you ask me: Fuji's 36mm lens leads to 50% more water between you & your dive buddy if you want to get her head-to-toe with an external strobe attached to the Fuji, you'll be waiting ~6-8 seconds between shots while the built-in flash recycles itself from two inches away, the S&S can zoom in to 72mm, while the Fuji is stuck back at 36mm. This means that the S&S will fill the frame with one square inch & the Fuji with four square inches the xD card from the Fuji will cost 50% more per GB than SD cards, and will be significantly less universally accepted in other devices (N/A for newer F40fd) Back to your questions, DE: The S&S housing does not have a dome port, unfortunately. It looks like it uses the same flat port & bayonet mount from their old 8000G/5000G housings. It doesn't have a bulkhead, either. Both of those would jack the pricetag too high, I guess. From my understanding, though, the fiber-optic "bulkheads" (there are two, just like the 8000G) will give similar performance to a traditional hardwired sync cord, because this new camera will no longer have the flash recycling delay that every other fiber-optic system had. From what I can tell, it does not use the G7's sensor. The G7 has a 1/1.8" sensor, and all of the S&S/Ricoh specs call its sensor 1/1.75". Tough to say whether this is a rounding error or a real difference. Thanks for the replies.
  13. Today I was given a presentation by a Sea & Sea sales rep about their newest hottest compact digital. On paper, it looks *really* good. I sell underwater cameras for a living and, along with a YS110, this just might unseat the Canon G7/Ikelite DS125 as the best non-SLR kit out there (though admittedly, TTL is sorely lacking). Here are the details that I can tell you: camera is essentially a Ricoh GX100 10 megapixels 24-72mm lens (far wider than anything else out there at the moment) 1cm wide-angle macro 4cm telephoto macro RAW files (approx. 4-second write time) CCD-shift image stabilization external strobes triggered via fiber-optic by LED light (NOT built-in flash, which should mean much faster shot-to-shot times) lever-activated shutter release two VERY comprehensive custom modes activated on mode dial (set one up for wide-angle, set one up for macro) knob-activated manual focus (as opposed to push-buttons) (misinformation from rep) about US$1000 street price housing looks very robust with a nice big grip, though still much more compact than third-party housings (e.g. Ikelite) Sounds intriguing, no?
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