Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Phaedrus

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Dublin, Ireland

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
  1. I know nothing about shooting underwater, but I have been using my wife´s new E-410 topside a lot on holiday in Spain. The built-in flash power can be reduced. That may reduce flashj bleed
  2. Here's the content of an e-mail I sent to Olympus last week: "Hi, I’d like to know about the correct connectivity between the UF-L underwater flash unit and the E-410 DSLR in a PT-EO3 underwater housing. Can it be connected via a fibre-optic cable? Or can it only be operated by wirelessly sensing the firing of the E-410’s internal flash (this is what seems to be suggested in most articles I read)? If both methods are possible, which has any advantage over the other? I’ve read the UFL-1 manual on-line, but that doesn’t give any information about connectivity." Here's the reply: "Dear Mark Thank you for your e-mail, it can not be connected via a fibre-optic cable, only wireless." Just when I think I understand something, it all gets confusing again. I finally came to understand how the Athena adapter is used (after viewing this page: http://www.athena-opt.com/camedia.html ), so in light of the above information directly from Olympus, can someone who has actually physically connected and operated a UFL-1 with the PT-E03 via a fibre-optic cable please show me where the connection happens on the UFL-1? I think the green circle in this pic highlights the receiving end of the threaded clamp-knob, rather than a fibre-optiv connector? Is the thing circled in red where a fibre-optic cable connects, if at all? All of these questions I'm asking are all academic till I'm actually in a position to buy anything, but I just like to have my homework done, so thanks again for all your replies. Mark
  3. Hi, I take it from the mounts that you guys are using that the Nano light comes with a Sea & Sea-type mounting bracket like the one in the picture of this similar Fantasea light? http://www.fantasea.com/product_details.asp?id=381 If so, and I wanted to mount a focus light on the hot shoe mount of a PT-E03 housing, would either of these components do the job? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5444...e_Flex_Arm.html http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4180...1_Long_Arm.html Are there other brands of similar components that I should look at? The Epoque item is described as a "Clog Shoe Flex Arm", which is "used to attach the Epoque or Sea & Sea strobe or video light into the accessory shoe on many Epoque and other small housings." Am I correct in thinking that "clog shoe" and "accessory shoe" are names for the built-in hot-shoe flash mount on the top of the housing? I'm sure I've seen a picture of that Olympus bracket on top of an Olymous housing, but I can't find it again. That would imply that the Olympus bracket (and the Epoque bracket, the bottom of which seems to be very similar) can mount on the flash hot-shoe on top of the PT-E03? There are a few pics on this page that also imply the same. http://www.epoque-japan.com/e-digitalacc-ESA.htm Am I right? Thanks, Mark
  4. Hi guys, can you tell me how you mount & connect your Nano focus lights into your set-up? Thanks, Mark
  5. Indeed, but I have to say I've never had cheesy pasta like my own, no matter where I've been in the world... Mark
  6. Hi, I'd just like to know if all of these components would be compatible & functional with each other? CAMERA: Olympus E-410 LENS: 14-42mm kit lens HOUSING: Olympus PT-E03 PORT: Olympus PP-E05 STROBES: Olympus UFL-1 (x 2) TRAY: Bonica NEONTRA x 2 ( http://www.bonicadive.com/?p2=modules/boni...mp;productId=31 ) HANDLES: Bonica NEONHAN x 2 ( http://www.bonicadive.com/?p2=modules/boni...mp;productId=32 ) ARMS 1: Bonica NEONDBL x 2 ( http://www.bonicadive.com/?p2=modules/boni...mp;productId=33 ) ARMS 2: Sea & Sea Sea Arm VII x 2 ( http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5103...m_VII_7_6_.html ) ARM BRACKETS: Bonica NEONUBJ x 4 ( http://www.bonicadive.com/?p2=modules/boni...mp;productId=30 ) FIBRE-OPTIC CABLE: Sea & Sea L-Type x 2(?) ( http://www.seaandsea.jp/products/accessory/acce/ys.html - 1st item on page ) I know this is not such a glamorous subject and that I probably seem to always ask these sorts of questions, but I need to know this stuff, specially if the PT-E03 is going to be harder to find in the future. How can you get the two UFL-1s (or any TTL-via-fibre-optics strobes) to fire with the E-410's built-in flash if only one fibre-optic cable can be used? First UFL-1 fires via the cable and second fires by picking up the first one firing? If two FO cables can be used, what exactly is the connectivity? What am I missing? An Athena adapter? Which one? Many thanks for any replies - I'll make you some nice cheesy pasta if you're ever in Dublin. It can affect your sinuses, mind you. Well it does mine anyway - seems to get me quite congested Mark
  7. Yeah, I found the B&H site last night. It seems a Bonica set-up would be great value, or even a mix of Bonica, Aquatica and Sea & Sea components. I'll be reading up on what bits would all go together. Goes to show that you really need to research as much as you can before jumping, eh? In fairness, I'm a long way away from actually buying any UW gear, but like I've said before, I just like to know as much as I can as early as I can. Better informed decisions are usually wiser ones... Thanks, Mark
  8. Hi, This is the lowest price I've seen for the PTBK-E01: http://www.videodirect.com/Merchant2/merch...y_Code=OLEUNDWT But holy-moley, isn't even €125 a lot of money for what is essentially just a piece of bent, drilled, tapped & painted metal? I've only done some basic metalworking, but I'm sure a DIY version of this bracket could be made up for 1/10th of that cost. I saw this http://www.digitaldiver.net/lib_docs/build_a_tray.pdf over on digitaldiver.net - basically just what I'm talking about albeit for a different housing. Has anyone on here done anything similar? Are there any reasons DIY trays shouldn't be used? Thanks, Mark
  9. For any onlookers interested, I found this quite interesting: http://jellieszone.com/strobe.htm MODS, if you feel that the title of this thread needs to be edited to reflect that the subject is drifting into a "TTL/fibre-optic/general strobe info for newbies" kind of direction, feel free to do it - I don't seem to be able to edit the title. Mark
  10. I was editing my last post while you were posting your question, Bob. This is where I saw the 300gm comment: http://www.olympus.co.uk/consumer/198_UFL-...water_Flash.htm I'm in Dublin, Ireland so I tend to head for the UK or EU sites. The UFL-1 description in both of those link actually state specifically, " Slave flash, no fiber optic cables required". Also, I think they answer the question in my edit about using two UFL-1 units: "this [uFL-1] underwater flash is one of only a few that allow TTL underwater flash photography in slave mode - ideal for multiple flash applications and single flash macro shots." I must have a sift round those two sites - they seem to be offering more info than the EU site I've been visiting. Mark
  11. Ahh... So the term "sync cord" refers solely to a normal (non-fibre-optic) flash sync cord and the term "fibre-optic cable" refers to just, well... a fibre-optic cable... ahem And when Olympus says, "TTL underwater flash photography in slave mode without a sync cord", it actually means without a "sync cord", but with a fibre-optic cable. But then why is there no mention of a fibre-optic cable anywhere in the UFL-1 manual? http://support.olympus.co.jp/jp/support/dl...ve/man_ufl1.pdf It jumps from "Inserting The Batteries" to "Mounting the Flash" without the term "fibre-optic" appearing anywhere. There's no "Connecting the Flash" section. Q8 in the FAQ section asks "What are the model numbers of the UFL-1 accessories?" The answer doesn't list a fibre-optic cable. Hmmm... the Strobe Finder lists the UFL-1 at 425gm, so it seems they know something Olympus don't ("... less than 300gm...") What's a newbie supposed to do, eh? Getting to grips with understanding the terminology is tough without comprehensive guides regarding how all the UW components all relate to each other. Thanks for that link to digitaldiver.net - I'll have a look around there. What I'd really love to find is a connectivity diagram for an UW DSLR system, with all parts labelled and functions explained. I have another question: Would two UFL-1 units connect & operate successfully with an E-410/PT-EO3? I've seen plenty of "rigs" (such a versatile word - it describes my band's PA, my old Toyota Surf and so much other stuff) with two strobes attached. Or would a single, "better" (and probably more expensive), strobe be preferrable? I take it that two strobes are typically used more to help balance a shot's lighting (to eliminate shadow on one side of the subject, for example) than to provide super-duper amounts of light? I think I like the idea of using two strobes for light balance, specially if they operate TTL - that would be the simplest way for the subject to get the optimum anount of balanced, shadow-less light, wouldn't it? You guys have responded to most of my posts since I joined, so by now I'm sure you understand that the cost of my "rig" (hah! ) will need to be as low as possible if I'm to get approval... Thanks again for the replies. Mark
  12. Hi, Olympus don't seem to list the sort of details that Sea & Sea do, hence my question. Olympus say UFL-1 is less than 300gm, YS-17 = 425gm, YS-15 Auto = 280gm. Colour temperature of all 3 is 5600K. Olympus say UFL-1 is okay for 40m, YS-17 & YS-15 Auto = 60m. Olympus' UFL-1 webpage blurb says, "TTL underwater flash photography in slave mode without a sync cord". In Sea & Sea's news article about the release of the YS-17 ( http://www.seaandsea.jp/products/accessory/mpk/index.html ) they show it connected via an "L-type" fibre optic cable. And Sea & Sea's YS-15 Auto webpage blurb says, "Sync cord: Fiber-optic cable for the YS-25 with a compact digital camera" To me, the UFL-1 looks more similar to the YS-17 than the YS-15 Auto. Staying sort of still on-topic, what way should the UFL-1 be used with the E-410 & PT-EO3 - with no cable at all or with a fibre-optic cable? Can it be done both with or without a cable? If so, are there any advantages or downsides to using one method over the other? Sorry for what may be dumb questions. This is all well in advance of us buying any UW gear for our E-410, but I just like to know stuff. Can anyone direct me to any good "UW Strobes for Dummies"-type sites, pages or aricles? Something that assumes I know nothing (I think I know a little, but I hate not knowing as much as my brain can understand). I'll search myself, but I may end up wasting time on an unhelpful or inaccurate site, whereas someone on here may know of some good, simple, thorough ones. Thanks for your replies guys, Mark
  13. I thought I'd seen a reference in a thread some months back, but I've searched for the last hour and didn't find it. Thanks, Mark
  14. The camera, backpack & CF card all arrived yesterday. Mrs Phaedrus is delighted with the camera, if a little intimidated - this is our first DSLR. The quality of the Tamrac pack seems top-notch. The camera section in the bottom takes the camera with lens attached, second lens, charger, camcorder (not the camcorder charger), and all the cables that came with the E-410. I guess in the future, a pack would be on the cards that would take the camera, the camcorder and a laptop and all the peripherals associated with all three. But for now, first impressions of the Adventure 6 are very good. Mark
  15. Hi, I had a look at the Naneu Pro Alpha pack (retailing in a local dealer for €50), but for an extra €12, I ended up ordering a Tamrac Adventure 6 today: €62 including shipping. It just seems to suit my needs best of all the bags I've looked at. I'm sure I'll be happy with it. If not, I'll let ye know. Thanks for the replies guys. Mark
  • Create New...