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divebumwannabe

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Everything posted by divebumwannabe

  1. Hi Rob, I've sent to rfkissling@hotmail.com twice now.. I bet it is going to your spam?
  2. Hey rfissling, I understand your concerns. However, this is a like new rig and has had very little time on it. The absolute truth is, I lost my job and I'm selling this rig to help pay for my mortgage. Sadly (but good for you) this system has sat in my closet inside a travel case, and is not getting any action (thus like new condition!). The other truth is I have a friend that keeps saying, "I want to buy that Ikelite 40D/50D rig from you", but he never closes the deal because he is always off doing something else! That is the truth! This is just FYI for you: Shooting with the Tokina 10-17mm with the 40D/50D on this rig is awesome! Personally I love wide. However, if you are a macro guy the 60mm Canon lens is also great on the 40D/50D. FYI and if you don't already know.... The Canon 16-35mm lens, which is great when shooting into the blue (sharks sourounded by water for example), but is soft when shooting wide close. This is true on all housings when using the Canon 16-35mm (Let me qualify that: I see the same issue on Subal housings with glass dome ports). I'm also selling a "Like New" Tokina 10-17mm, Canon 60mm, and Canon 16-35mm if you are interested. I also have a +2 and +4 diopter to help with the edge softness issues when shooting wide close. Same reason... I have three kids and I need to pay the bills. I have not posted those yet, and the discount is not as good becasue lthe lens sell very well. I also have a 40D body that has hardly been used to sell also. The discount on that is very good since the bodies don't hold their value well. If you need references on me, please contact Backscatter.com (ask for Berkly, Russ, Jim or Sterling) and ask them if I'm a reliable guy. Also contact NCUPS.org and ask the president or vis president the same question. I think you will find that I'm solid, the gear I'm selling is "like new" and solid and you are getting a great deal! One comment about the photos I have there. I noticed that some of the O-rings go to Ikelite125 strobes, so those would not be included in the sale. Please ask me anything that you could be concerned with? Last, I noticed that I forgot to mention shipping would be additonal and based on how you want me to ship it. Cheers Derek...
  3. Hey Gang, The condition of this gear is "like new" and has only been used a couple times. The gear is clean and there are no dome or port scratches. Everything is in top condition. I'm selling the gear complete, and not in pieces. The setup includes both wide and macro ports for Canon 10-22mm, Tokina Fisheye 10-17mm and Canon 60mm macro lenses. Link to photos of items (http://www.pbase.com...t/gear_for_sale) Complete list of parts in this sale and prices I paid: -Ikelite Housing Canon 40D/50D $1499 -8" Dome Port (includes Type I/II Gears) $399 -Port Wide Zoom $150 -Port Wide Fisheye $125 -Macro Port $125 -Sync Cord (Dual TTL) $160 -Sync Cord (Dual TTL backup) $160 -Sync Cord (Single TTL)) $100 -Strobe Arm Ball Adapter x 2 $100 -Backup Ikelite Housing O-rings $12 -Total price $2730 -Total price with Tax $2976 -Selling for 30% off my price $2079 Closest to new you will find for a $900 discount! Shipping is additional.
  4. Hello, I just got back from a Galapagos trip just before Thanksgiving... Wow, was that fun! I was on the Deep Blue and we did 8 dives at Darwin where the Whale Sharks were. I saw about 2 WS per dive, but it was a challenge for everyone that I encountered. I'm sure everyone that goes to this magical place has a different experience, but overall this is some incredible diving. Depending on the current you will hang out on the reef while the DM goes out looking for the WS. In my case I never encounter the WS when I was just hanging out in the blue waiting to see if I'd run into one. This was true for some, but for me it was a full out sprint when there would be a sighting. I'm in good shape and I could catch and keep up with the WS when this would happen. I was using a Canon 40D with dual Ikelite 125's, and a Tokina 10-17mm, which works well there. However, be ready to swim hard to get the coveted head shot, unless you are lucky and the beast just comes to you.. Also, be ready to shoot, adjust, and swim hard simultaneously! It's great fun and you will have a blast. At Wolf there were walls of Hammerhead sharks that would pass by, it was just crazy. You will want something with a little more reach like a 10-22 or so. You may also need to think about locking focus as the light at 80ft was not enough to get focus lock all the time, etc... Some of the Hammerheads come in closer and you will need to hold your breath, as the HH do not like bubbles and scare easily.. By the way, a 5mm suit should work fine and a 6-7mm you will be plenty warm... I did not need a hood at Wolf or Darwin. Bring good gloves as you will be hanging on to sharp rock/reef most of the time. Also bring at least a 60mm macro for the Cousins dive, otherwise you will shoot WA on every dive. Have a great time! Cheers Derek...
  5. I used the new Akona Pro camera bag on a recent trip to the Galapagos. I was able to get a fair amount of gear into the bag (Ikelite 40D housing (40D body inside housing), macro port, wide angle port (8"), a few lenses, one strobe, cables, etc)... I put the other strobe in my dive bag and made it there that way. However, the carry on bag is over American Airlines bag size limit, and I got a lot of grief at the check bag desk. AA was going to charge me an extra bag fee and make me check the bag! I about came unglued, but remembered that you can unzip the top backpack cover and remove, which allowed me to be close enough for AA. When I got near the security check I just zipped the foam cover back on, and did not have another problem. What I did notice though, was that AA in general was being very picky to the size of carry on bags, and were not allowing folks to just carry anything on. I saw this happen at the boarding gate! I just kinda kept my bag out of their sight. Also, I did have some trouble getting the bag into the over head carriers that were on the window side, but had no problem with the in-board over head carriers. This was more true on the smaller airplanes. When I got to Ecuador I had to check the bag as their carry on limit is one small (backpack) bag only! Cheers Derek...
  6. Hey Gang, couple things.... Ikelite is now offering the 50D upgrades to the 40D housing, see below link for details; http://www.ikelite.com/web_two/can_40d_diff.html To add the LiveView button and update the TTL electronics to support both the 50D and 40D, is approximately $200. On a different topic related to the Canon 50D however, is the "Err99" that people are getting from the 50D's... I was playing with a friends 50D and sure enough I got the dreaded "Err99", which locks you completely out of the camera! I couldn't believe it, you are stuck in that mode until you physically remove the battery from the camera and then restart! I thought to myself, "This will never work underwater, as if you get the "Err99" we can't simply remove the battery to restart the camera". I kid you not, the next day I went to Canon's web site to look for driver updates and sure enough there was a driver update, v1.3 that addresses the "Err99" bug! I have to say Canon is really great this way, as they are generally always updating software and drivers for all their applications, it is really nice.. In any case, my friend is going to let me take his firmware updated 50D into the water this weekend! Cheers Derek...
  7. Hey Shane, lets hope for the best on the conditions we get. There has been some great feedback on this topic and what seems to be constant is, "Conditions can change" (killer current, to manageable current). Some of the feedback was to hide behind rocks to get out of the current... Maybe putting our back to the rocks could work too? Instead of hanging on maybe we can back up to the rock and have our hands free to shoot our minds out.. One thing for sure I'll try just about anything to get into a good shooting position. One suggestion was to squeeze the rocks with our legs to get hands free. Depending on your drysuit material this would not be a good idea. I thought about bring my drysuit also, but I'm going to go for the streamlined and ruggedness of neoprene. There is a place to rent gear in San Cristobal (boats depart from this Island), but I would be too afraid to wait until then to get a suit that fits me.. If you have a local rental option you may check that out.. I would think it's only $40 for a week? Otherwise buy one, they are pretty cheap.. Check out http://www.leisurepro.com/Catalog.aspx?op=...amp;Context=980 For sure, lets compare our trips when we get back! Cheers Derek...
  8. Hey Shane, I'm also going out on November 10th, via Deep Blue. Everything I'm hearing in wetsuits is 5mm to 7mm, as the conditions are relatively warm. Also, a wetsuit is more streamlined and this will help with your swimming in the currents. I would cry if I got a tear in my dry suit, not to mention the repair cost I'm concerned about hanging onto the rocks and trying to shoot with a large DLSR rig! Should prove to be interesting. I'm thinking of bringing my point and shoot Olympus 5050 as a contingency plan, which is a lot smaller setup as you may know. I have buoyancy control floats on my STIX arms for the larger DLSR, which could add to the drag problem, but they can be removed. Something for you to think about when trying to lower your overall drag. Also, bring good fins! Cheers Derek...
  9. Hoovermd, thanks for the link! You have some great shots and I also liked your other trips also! Thanks! Derek...
  10. Phil, those shots were awesome! Looking at these pic's is driving me crazy! Cheers Derek...
  11. Hey Phil, thank you so much! I have not heard much about the Deep Blue and it was hard to find any comments from folks using that ship. It sounds like you had an incredible trip... Good God! The description of you hanging in the current with you're camera flapping in the wind sounds like fun... Right! heh... Do you think a 75-200mm is enough for the top side shots, or should I head toward a 300/400mm? I don't own this type of lens, so I'll rent a telephoto before I go... I was thinking of using the Tokina 10-17mm primarily UW, unless we have macro ops. Did this lens serve you well at all, or were most things beyond the range for this lens? My Canon 10-22mm is a good lens top side, but it is not good for close reef work, as I get a lot of edge focus issues in the water with that lens. However, if I'm shooting out toward the blue then this is not as much an issue? It sounds like we never really get very close to the bigger critters? What do you think you're shooting distances were like? I'm assuming if we are primarily hanging on the rocks the objects are probably outside beyond 12ft? It sounds like a 5-7mm suit is more than enough... I'm used to Monterey, CA where the water temp varies between 48-55 degrees... I'm comfortable in a 8mm and 53-60 degrees, and go dry suit for the below 53 degrees fun. I have not dove in the 70-76 degrees range and my only concerns are going for minimum drag and adequate warmth. I'm hearing the extra weight on this trip just adds to the difficulty. If you have some shots with the various lens you used please show us all! So far I'm missing the telephoto lens in my kit... Cheers Derek...
  12. You are right! It seems you really need to hope for the best conditions and make the best of things if the current is tough... Hell, I'll bring everything! Thanks Derek...
  13. Kevster, excellent comments from your trip! I'm fit, but carrying the DSLR and hanging onto rocks sounds pretty crazy and interesting! I'm hoping for photo opportunities, but it sounds very difficult to pull this off at times it seems... I'll have to think of someway to secure the DSLR to my body that allows hands free, but at the same time I can pull the unit up to my face when I need to.. Protecting the dome in crazy conditions will be an issue I'm sure... The water seems pretty warm up at Wolf and Darwin (24/25C)... Do you think a 3mm wetsuit would be better for those dives, this way you could keep your weight down and be able to move and swim faster... Maybe a 5mm at the most? I'm used to water that is ~13C using an 8mm suit. You mentioned that the south was ~22C and the north was 24C, which is warm water for me... I was planning on bringing a 7mm, but it would seem to be overkill for these warm waters? Cheers Derek...
  14. Hey Kevster and Elbuzo, thank you for the feedback, all this helps! Kevster, great trip report and pictures! Overall is looks like you had a incredible trip. Do you think a reef hook would help, or would it just get in the way? Can you swim to the bigger creatures or do you just have to hang on to the reef for dear life? Also, with the current that you mentioned, did you have any trouble keeping your mask on? Cheers Derek...
  15. I was able to get my hands on a Canon 50D today from a friend, and I did some strobe testing on the 40D housing... I was able to verify some of the issues with the 50D in the 40D housing, but I also found something interesting about the 40D in the 40D housing: 1. I tested the Ikelite TTL & Manual Compensation Settings on the 40D housing using the 40D body, and here is what I found. I was trying to baseline what the 40D does in that housing. Indoor shots were taken to compare the relative brightness with each TTL flash compensation change: Ikelite -2/+2***40D -2/+2 read out***Actual strobe brightness *******-2.0********-2.0***********very dim *******-1.5********-1.5***********dim *******-1.0********-1.0***********less dim *******-0.5********-0.5***********(-)correct brightness ********0*********+2.0***********VERY BRIGHT (THERE IS NO "0" COMPENSATION FROM THE IKELITE ELECTRONICS), the 40D thinks it's set a +2 flash exposure compensation? *******+0.5*******+0.5***********(+)correct brightness *******+1.0*******+1.0***********less bright *******+1.5*******+1.5***********bright *******+2.0*******+2.0***********very bright The Ikelite TTL Flash compensation DID NOT WORK PROPERLY AT A SETTING OF "0", in fact it showed up on the 40D as +2.0 of the camera's flash exposure compensation?! This is either a bug in the electronics of the housing or a defect in my electronics? I also manually changed the 40D flash exposure compensation and the strobes responded correctly, and when I set the flash compensation to "0" I did indeed get "correct brightness. I also tried the 50D in the 40D housing and indeed the Ikelite TTL compensation setting never made a corresponding change. I also tried to manually control the flash compensation through the 50D, but the strobes shot "Full brightness" regardless of how I had that set. Of course controlling the strobes via the strobe compensation dial works fine when using DS-125's. I will contact Ikelite about what I found on the 40D housing with the 40D body. I believe it is a bug/defect of my Ikelite electronics, because when I manually control it there is no problem. For kicks some of you should try and see if you have the same problem with the TTL compensation at "0" and report back. I just verified the strobes brightness with pictures up against a wall, with fixed manual camera settings, etc... Cheers Derek...
  16. Hey Gang, I'm going on a trip to the Galapagos Islands this November, actually in 3 weeks! I've never been to the Islands and was looking for some advice on the gear I should come with (Camera setups, Scuba gear, clothes, etc...). I'm trying to pack light as I don't want to overdue what I bring. And of course I'm trying to stay under the 50 lbs bag limits for the AA plane travel. Also, this is my first liveaboard (Deep Blue) and needed some feedback on liveaboard stays... There has been some suggestions from Deep Blue, but I'd like to hear from folks that have actually done these types of trips. My trip does not end at the Galapagos as it will continue onto Peru and Cuzco/Machu Picchu. If you have any advice for this region I would also appreciate that! Thank you for any feedback that you may have for this trip.. Cheers Derek...
  17. Hey Gang, well it is official that the 40D housing does not function with the "TTL & Manual Compensation Settings" when using the 50D body. I asked Ikelite directly and below is Brett Foster's response from Ikelite. The upside on the message below is now Ikelite is going to offer adding the Liveview button also! This should make some of you happy. However, meanwhile the 50D will work fine in the 40D housing using your strobes in manual mode, by just dialing your strobe strength yourself. I'm sure many of you do this already and control the rest with your aperture settings and strobe angle... Cheers Derek... Message from Ikelite: Derek, Sorry, you must send the 40D housing to Ikelite for an electronics upgrade for the 50D to function properly in the 40D housing. We can also add the "liveview" button. Please send your housing along with a brief letter of explanation or this e-mail, and full contact information to: Ikelite Underwater Systems attn. Repair Dept. 50 W. 33rd St., Indpls., In 46208 Please include your name, complete return address, e-mail, phone number, and your stated problem or service request. Normal turnaround time is 2-3 weeks. Regards, Brett S. Foster Ikelite Underwater Systems 50 W. 33rd St. Indpls., In 46208 www.ikelite.com brett@ikelite.com ph. 317.923.4523 fax: 317.924.7988
  18. I do understand and it would never be my intent to bite the hand that feeds me... I will be seeing Berkley in 3 weeks, and we will be on a boat together going to the Galapagos Islands! I will let him know that I created an international incident over my loose lips! I hope I do run into you someday, you seem like a very decent man. When I was in Australia for 3 weeks a couple years ago, I found the folks to be kind and genuine. I never thought I'd be insulting Aussie from Brisbane from this side of the globe.. Wow, a truly international incident I've created here! It sounds like I need to buy a lot of beers here!? When and where can I start on this? Cheers Derek...
  19. Gotta love it! Well yes I do, if you must know. I have a lot of practice at a lot of things...
  20. Oh please tell me you're kidding?! I loved Australia and I loved the people, and my comment was a complement! The Aussies are some of the nicest people I've had the pleasure of being around. In fact, I'm trying to figure out how to get back to Australia for vacation! I felt the Aussies could say a lot with a few words, what is wrong with that? Heh... If you are serious you must not be from Australia! Please tell me that trying to gain knowledge in UW photography is not going to result in political correctness and miss understanding? Please tell me this is not so? I'm a very sensitive guy and you are starting to hurt my feelings now! Cheers Mate! Derek...
  21. Hey Steve, it is funny how things get lost in translation, or when you don't know someone personally how the wrong meaning can come from it... You should go to Australia sometime, everyone talks in a very abbreviated speak... Its great... Trust me I have no intention of inferring that Backscatter is incompetent. I do admit that when I read over what I wrote it does sound that way a bit, but this was not what my meaning was!... Sorry to anyone that may have thought this was my meaning. To be exactly clear on this subject; I have been into Backscatter many times and I have never seen any serious machining tools, thus I was not surprised that they did not do precision house drilling for button add ons. Of course this is a big assumption to what tools they may have behind their curtains to do some special viewfinder work. Also, I'm sure any such work to the housing that was not done by Ikelite would void any warranty on that housing, and this could be a possible reason why they don't do this type of work? This is just another assumption.... Next time I'm in Backscatter I'll ask them personally what the shop is capable of doing, and then I'll be properly informed. Second, when I made the comment, "whipping out the drill", etc... I was really saying that some respect needs to be given to this project, and not to take it likely. I was just being lazy and threw the information down. Bottom line, Ikelite and Backscatter do not add Ikelite case function buttons. If you decide to do the job, make sure you have the right tools and you give proper respect to the job. This last statement is not coming from ignorance as I have worked in a machine shop and have a good idea of what is needed. Last, if any of you knew me personally you would know immediately it was never my style to slam anyone... Cheers Derek...
  22. Thanks Steve and Brett.. I did call Backscatter and they will not do this type of case modifying... This does not surprise me as it would require some competent machining skills. In other words whipping out our home drill kit will not do the trick... Brett thanks for the update... I think folks are trying to avoid having to buy a new case for simply a single button problem. My understanding is that the eTTL is identical for both the 40D and 50D.. Cheers Derek...
  23. I looked closer at my 40D Ikelite housing and the work to add the 50D LiveView push pin looks doable, but you would need some good tools. From what I can see you would need to make three distinct holes, all with the the exact same center. The three holes enclose different parts of the push pin hardware. The largest hole supports and houses a spring, which retracts the the pin once you pushed it in. The second hole, which is mid way and very shallow, supports the water sealing O ring. Last, the smallest diameter hole supports the push pin itself. If you had a drill press, two flat ended drill bits (sprig hole, O ring hole) and a drill bit for the pin hole, you could do the required drilling on the 40D housing. Some experience with a micrometer would get you the required depth of the two critical hole depths, using the adjacent "menu" pin hole dimensions as your reference. Of course you need the pin hardware to complete this project, and I'm assuming Ikelite would sell this to us. On the short term I'll stick with looking through the viewfinder if I go to the 50D body. However, if you have some good skill with the above tools this is a doable job. Cheers Derek...
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