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Posts posted by divebumwannabe

  1. Hey rfissling,

    I understand your concerns. However, this is a like new rig and has had very little time on it. The absolute truth is, I lost my job and I'm selling this rig to help pay for my mortgage. Sadly (but good for you) this system has sat in my closet inside a travel case, and is not getting any action (thus like new condition!). The other truth is I have a friend that keeps saying, "I want to buy that Ikelite 40D/50D rig from you", but he never closes the deal because he is always off doing something else! That is the truth!


    This is just FYI for you: Shooting with the Tokina 10-17mm with the 40D/50D on this rig is awesome! Personally I love wide. However, if you are a macro guy the 60mm Canon lens is also great on the 40D/50D. FYI and if you don't already know.... The Canon 16-35mm lens, which is great when shooting into the blue (sharks sourounded by water for example), but is soft when shooting wide close. This is true on all housings when using the Canon 16-35mm (Let me qualify that: I see the same issue on Subal housings with glass dome ports).


    I'm also selling a "Like New" Tokina 10-17mm, Canon 60mm, and Canon 16-35mm if you are interested. I also have a +2 and +4 diopter to help with the edge softness issues when shooting wide close. Same reason... I have three kids and I need to pay the bills. I have not posted those yet, and the discount is not as good becasue lthe lens sell very well. I also have a 40D body that has hardly been used to sell also. The discount on that is very good since the bodies don't hold their value well.


    If you need references on me, please contact Backscatter.com (ask for Berkly, Russ, Jim or Sterling) and ask them if I'm a reliable guy. Also contact NCUPS.org and ask the president or vis president the same question. I think you will find that I'm solid, the gear I'm selling is "like new" and solid and you are getting a great deal!


    One comment about the photos I have there. I noticed that some of the O-rings go to Ikelite125 strobes, so those would not be included in the sale.


    Please ask me anything that you could be concerned with?


    Last, I noticed that I forgot to mention shipping would be additonal and based on how you want me to ship it.




  2. Hey Gang,


    The condition of this gear is "like new" and has only been used a couple times. The gear is clean and there are no dome or port scratches.

    Everything is in top condition. I'm selling the gear complete, and not in pieces. The setup includes both wide and macro ports for Canon 10-22mm,

    Tokina Fisheye 10-17mm and Canon 60mm macro lenses.


    Link to photos of items (http://www.pbase.com...t/gear_for_sale)


    Complete list of parts in this sale and prices I paid:

    -Ikelite Housing Canon 40D/50D $1499

    -8" Dome Port (includes Type I/II Gears) $399

    -Port Wide Zoom $150

    -Port Wide Fisheye $125

    -Macro Port $125

    -Sync Cord (Dual TTL) $160

    -Sync Cord (Dual TTL backup) $160

    -Sync Cord (Single TTL)) $100

    -Strobe Arm Ball Adapter x 2 $100

    -Backup Ikelite Housing O-rings $12

    -Total price $2730

    -Total price with Tax $2976

    -Selling for 30% off my price $2079


    Closest to new you will find for a $900 discount!


    Shipping is additional.




    • Like 1

  3. Hello,

    I just got back from a Galapagos trip just before Thanksgiving... Wow, was that fun! I was on the Deep Blue and we did 8 dives at Darwin where the Whale Sharks were. I saw about 2 WS per dive, but it was a challenge for everyone that I encountered. I'm sure everyone that goes to this magical place has a different experience, but overall this is some incredible diving. Depending on the current you will hang out on the reef while the DM goes out looking for the WS. In my case I never encounter the WS when I was just hanging out in the blue waiting to see if I'd run into one. This was true for some, but for me it was a full out sprint when there would be a sighting. I'm in good shape and I could catch and keep up with the WS when this would happen. I was using a Canon 40D with dual Ikelite 125's, and a Tokina 10-17mm, which works well there. However, be ready to swim hard to get the coveted head shot, unless you are lucky and the beast just comes to you.. Also, be ready to shoot, adjust, and swim hard simultaneously! It's great fun and you will have a blast. At Wolf there were walls of Hammerhead sharks that would pass by, it was just crazy. You will want something with a little more reach like a 10-22 or so. You may also need to think about locking focus as the light at 80ft was not enough to get focus lock all the time, etc... Some of the Hammerheads come in closer and you will need to hold your breath, as the HH do not like bubbles and scare easily.. By the way, a 5mm suit should work fine and a 6-7mm you will be plenty warm... I did not need a hood at Wolf or Darwin. Bring good gloves as you will be hanging on to sharp rock/reef most of the time. Also bring at least a 60mm macro for the Cousins dive, otherwise you will shoot WA on every dive.


    Have a great time!




  4. I used the new Akona Pro camera bag on a recent trip to the Galapagos. I was able to get a fair amount of gear into the bag (Ikelite 40D housing (40D body inside housing), macro port, wide angle port (8"), a few lenses, one strobe, cables, etc)... I put the other strobe in my dive bag and made it there that way. However, the carry on bag is over American Airlines bag size limit, and I got a lot of grief at the check bag desk. AA was going to charge me an extra bag fee and make me check the bag! I about came unglued, but remembered that you can unzip the top backpack cover and remove, which allowed me to be close enough for AA. When I got near the security check I just zipped the foam cover back on, and did not have another problem. What I did notice though, was that AA in general was being very picky to the size of carry on bags, and were not allowing folks to just carry anything on. I saw this happen at the boarding gate! I just kinda kept my bag out of their sight. Also, I did have some trouble getting the bag into the over head carriers that were on the window side, but had no problem with the in-board over head carriers. This was more true on the smaller airplanes. When I got to Ecuador I had to check the bag as their carry on limit is one small (backpack) bag only!




  5. Hey Gang,

    couple things.... Ikelite is now offering the 50D upgrades to the 40D housing, see below link for details; http://www.ikelite.com/web_two/can_40d_diff.html


    To add the LiveView button and update the TTL electronics to support both the 50D and 40D, is approximately $200.


    On a different topic related to the Canon 50D however, is the "Err99" that people are getting from the 50D's... I was playing with a friends 50D and sure enough I got the dreaded "Err99", which locks you completely out of the camera! I couldn't believe it, you are stuck in that mode until you physically remove the battery from the camera and then restart! I thought to myself, "This will never work underwater, as if you get the "Err99" we can't simply remove the battery to restart the camera". I kid you not, the next day I went to Canon's web site to look for driver updates and sure enough there was a driver update, v1.3 that addresses the "Err99" bug! :P I have to say Canon is really great this way, as they are generally always updating software and drivers for all their applications, it is really nice..


    In any case, my friend is going to let me take his firmware updated 50D into the water this weekend! :uwphotog:




  6. Derek

    Maybe I should get my Nikonos V and 104 strobe out of storage. Maybe not. I have been waiting since July to try out my new setup.

    That would suck putting a hole in your dry suit. Maybe I should go rent a wet suit from my dive store before the trip. My wet suit appears to have shrunk (funny how that happens). We should compare trips, dive boats and pictures after our trip.



    Hey Shane,

    lets hope for the best on the conditions we get. There has been some great feedback on this topic and what seems to be constant is, "Conditions can change" (killer current, to manageable current). Some of the feedback was to hide behind rocks to get out of the current... Maybe putting our back to the rocks could work too? Instead of hanging on maybe we can back up to the rock and have our hands free to shoot our minds out.. :uwphotog: One thing for sure I'll try just about anything to get into a good shooting position. One suggestion was to squeeze the rocks with our legs to get hands free. Depending on your drysuit material this would not be a good idea. I thought about bring my drysuit also, but I'm going to go for the streamlined and ruggedness of neoprene. There is a place to rent gear in San Cristobal (boats depart from this Island), but I would be too afraid to wait until then to get a suit that fits me.. If you have a local rental option you may check that out.. I would think it's only $40 for a week? Otherwise buy one, they are pretty cheap.. Check out http://www.leisurepro.com/Catalog.aspx?op=...amp;Context=980


    For sure, lets compare our trips when we get back!




  7. Is anyone diving with a drysuit? I am leaving for the Galapagos on the Aggressor in two weeks. Everyone in our club is bringing their drysuit. Maybe I will get too hot swimming against the currents. I am also starting to get worried about taking my DSLR with dual strobes for the first time with such currents.



    Hey Shane,

    I'm also going out on November 10th, via Deep Blue. Everything I'm hearing in wetsuits is 5mm to 7mm, as the conditions are relatively warm. Also, a wetsuit is more streamlined and this will help with your swimming in the currents. I would cry if I got a tear in my dry suit, not to mention the repair cost :uwphotog: I'm concerned about hanging onto the rocks and trying to shoot with a large DLSR rig! Should prove to be interesting. I'm thinking of bringing my point and shoot Olympus 5050 as a contingency plan, which is a lot smaller setup as you may know. I have buoyancy control floats on my STIX arms for the larger DLSR, which could add to the drag problem, but they can be removed. Something for you to think about when trying to lower your overall drag. Also, bring good fins!




  8. http://gallery.me.com/HooverMarkD#100087



    I don't know what the rules ended up as but if you get chance the land stuff was spectacular!

    The biggest issue there was not stepping on the criters!


    I took an 85mm as well as a 135mm (w/ 1.4x extender) and the wife unit took a 24-105 for the land.

    Forget the macro lens for UW it just isn't worth it. My UW choice was a Canon 16-35 WA zoom and I was happy.


    We dove wet in our SoCal gear. It was cold and currenty but a whole bunch o' fun.


    Hoovermd, thanks for the link! You have some great shots and I also liked your other trips also!




  9. Hi Derek,


    Yeah, the current was definitely "interesting", esp. with the big camera. Like I said, challenging and exciting at the same time.


    Here are some pics. These were all shot with the Tokina 10-17 which is a great UW lens. I've never used the Canon 10-22, but I think you may want a little more zoom than the Tokina. Try them both!


    The Hammerheads were shy (they don't like noisy bubbles) and came maybe within 6-8 feet on the closer passes


    But with a little cropping and processing you can get some good stuff (I'm really pleased with this one :) )


    Alot of times they and their pals would just stay in the blue


    The Whale sharks on our trip were off the reef in the blue as well. I don't know how the divemasters saw them with the limited vis, but they'd bang their tank and we'd race out through the current and they'd emerge from the fog. Then we'd try and keep up


    The eagle rays at Cousin's Rock were more cooperative


    And the sealions were even friendlier



    You can check out some of the other pics, including land stuff, at http://gallery.me.com/philsokol#100095. The land pics were shot with the Canon 100-400.


    Like I said, you'll have a great time!




    Phil, those shots were awesome! Looking at these pic's is driving me crazy!




  10. Hi Derek,


    I just got back from a trip on the Deep Blue and all the previous recommendations and comments are dead on. I shot the 10-17 almost exclusively, but the sharks are a little shy, so the 10-22's probably a better choice. Vis was generally fair, usually 30-40 ft. with lots of stuff in the water, so watch your strobe positioning. Current was sometimes ripping which made things real challenging with a full SLR set-up. There was a dive or two where I actually had my strobes blown around or had one hand on the rock with the whole rig kinda flapping in the wind. Nothing to do but find a safe, out of the way spot to tuck in and watch the sharks go by. Definitely exciting and challenging!


    Water temp varied from 76 at Darwin to 70 in the south, so I wore a 7mm and was fine. Even got away with no hood or gloves after a couple days.


    At Wolf we saw dozens of hammerheads, galapagos sharks, turtles, just tons of stuff. In fact, the turtles got kinda boring after awhile! At Darwin, lots of hammerheads and we got treated to 3 whale sharks on 1 dive right after each other, the first as big as a school bus! They say Cape Marshall is "good for mantas" - we saw 9 on one dive. They "guaranteed" eagle rays at Cousins Rock - we saw a school of 8-10. Sealions buzzed or played around with us on several dives as did dolphins. We were treated to lots of jumping dolphins top-side as well. So I guess the diving was OK. :)


    The dive deck is big and each person gets their own station for their gear. They re-fill your same tank, so just set it up once and forget it. Nitrox is $150 for the week IN CASH. Diving is done from two inflatable skiffs with everyone doing a coordinated back-roll into the water. Not alot of room for camera's on the skiffs, so take a little extra care there. They'll hand you the rig after you're in the water. Decent amount of camera space on the main boat.


    Do bring a long lens for the top-side tours. Great photo ops there.


    Weather was OK, mostly overcast with some sun. Generally shorts and t-shirts were enough on board, maybe a light jacket, but bring warmer stuff for Quito.


    The boat is spacious. The cabins each have their own bath and the two beds are side-by-side, so lots of room. Food is good, varied and plentiful served buffet style for every meal. Soft drinks are free, beer and wine extra on the honor system and you can bring your own bottle of booze or two on board if you like.


    Let me know if you want more info and I'll try and get some pictures up in the next day or two.


    You will have a fantastic trip!!!



    Hey Phil,

    thank you so much! I have not heard much about the Deep Blue and it was hard to find any comments from folks using that ship. It sounds like you had an incredible trip... Good God! The description of you hanging in the current with you're camera flapping in the wind sounds like fun... Right! heh...


    Do you think a 75-200mm is enough for the top side shots, or should I head toward a 300/400mm? I don't own this type of lens, so I'll rent a telephoto before I go...


    I was thinking of using the Tokina 10-17mm primarily UW, unless we have macro ops. Did this lens serve you well at all, or were most things beyond the range for this lens? My Canon 10-22mm is a good lens top side, but it is not good for close reef work, as I get a lot of edge focus issues in the water with that lens. However, if I'm shooting out toward the blue then this is not as much an issue? It sounds like we never really get very close to the bigger critters? What do you think you're shooting distances were like? I'm assuming if we are primarily hanging on the rocks the objects are probably outside beyond 12ft?


    It sounds like a 5-7mm suit is more than enough... I'm used to Monterey, CA where the water temp varies between 48-55 degrees... I'm comfortable in a 8mm and 53-60 degrees, and go dry suit for the below 53 degrees fun. I have not dove in the 70-76 degrees range and my only concerns are going for minimum drag and adequate warmth. I'm hearing the extra weight on this trip just adds to the difficulty.


    If you have some shots with the various lens you used please show us all! So far I'm missing the telephoto lens in my kit...




  11. I know you want to pack light; but to me Galapagos is a magic trip and you do not want to be there and wish you had packed something. So especially for photographic stuff I would take anything you think you might need. If you read the various trip reports you will see that conditions in Galapagos are variable to say the least. On some of my dives at Wolf with current ripping and poor viz, I got to exploring the critters in the rocks, and then I wished I had my macro setup.


    You are right! It seems you really need to hope for the best conditions and make the best of things if the current is tough... Hell, I'll bring everything! :)




  12. Yea I had a great trip.

    I don’t think a reef hook would help, much better idea trying to hide behind a rock or in a sheltered location. I think a RH would actually be more difficult to use.

    The conditions were only tough in the 1st two dives at wolf. On these dives at the landslide site, basically it was straight down to 15-20 m then grab onto the rocks.

    The current was strong but generally manageable. It was the surge that was difficult to cope with a camera in hand. One moment you were being pulled one way then a few seconds later you were heading in the other direction. I have 250 dives and after the 1st two dives at wolf I thought that I was in over my exp level. These dives were also pretty short and a few divers myself included were surfacing with less air than we should have had. Luckily these were the most difficult dives.


    At Wolf you stay on the rocks. If you swim out into the blue you will prob scare away the hammerheads and it is likely you will not be able to make it back to the wall and hence it will be the end of the dive. The dives at Wolf were not drift dives. It was a grab onto a rock type dive. I guess if you have a DSLR you would need to use your thighs to grip the rocks!. I have a Inon dome for my P&S wet lens. I did not take it on these dives as I was scared I would damage the dome. At one point it was difficult to even aim a camera ever mind adjust the settings.


    Twice at wolf I looked in the direction of the guide who was banging his tank to point out the hammers and my Mares Abyss reg went into free-flow. Had no worries about my mask. We did move after 20 mins into the dive, but it was not swimming, it was moving using the rocks. I had a few bruises at the end of the day as I was carrying to much weight.


    At Darwin it was similar type of dive but there was no surge and the current was no where near as strong.

    At Darwin again you go down to 20-25 m and sit on the ledge watching the action. If a Whale shark shows up everyone leaves the wall & swims out into the blue.

    Generally there is enough action to ensure you stay on the wall for 20-30 mins. Then the guides would lead everyone out into blue water to look for more stuff. This happened early if there was not much action or the WS did not appear in the 1st 30 mins. Generally everyone should stay near the wall to ensure close shark action.

    If you swim out into the blue the shark tend to keep there distance.


    Saying that there is so much action at Darwin, not just out in the Blue but all around, above & below. I could not believe that large Moray eels were free swimming through diver’s legs while they were on the ledge and they did not notice due to looking out at all the sharks. It was so funny.


    Generally you can get close to the WSs for 1-2 mins if you are lucky & have good fins and are fit!!.

    Getting close to the dolphins & seals was down to luck.


    AT the other sites you swim about looking for stuff. There is current, but again it is manageable.


    This was the 1st time where i have really felt the disadvantages of shutter lag with a P&S, especially with the seals. I also suggest long strobe arms as there is a lot of potential for back scatter. Viss was best at Darwin (20+m). Closest Hammerhead action also at Darwin.


    Kevster, excellent comments from your trip! I'm fit, but carrying the DSLR and hanging onto rocks sounds pretty crazy and interesting! I'm hoping for photo opportunities, but it sounds very difficult to pull this off at times it seems... I'll have to think of someway to secure the DSLR to my body that allows hands free, but at the same time I can pull the unit up to my face when I need to.. Protecting the dome in crazy conditions will be an issue I'm sure...


    The water seems pretty warm up at Wolf and Darwin (24/25C)... Do you think a 3mm wetsuit would be better for those dives, this way you could keep your weight down and be able to move and swim faster... Maybe a 5mm at the most? I'm used to water that is ~13C using an 8mm suit. You mentioned that the south was ~22C and the north was 24C, which is warm water for me... I was planning on bringing a 7mm, but it would seem to be overkill for these warm waters?




  13. Just back from a trip on the Galapagos Aggressor 1.

    I have posted a trip report on scuba board



    The water is warmer than normal. I had a pinnacle 7/5 mm combination suit and was confortable in both the North & South. You definately need a hood for the Southern site. Also definately need good gloves.


    Topside . You will need a jumper & light jacket. As it can get windy/cool in the evenings.


    As far as photography, i was using P&S, decided not to dive with my strobe after the 1st day. Some of the diving at wolf was really difficult to dive ,even a small set up.


    Hey Kevster and Elbuzo,

    thank you for the feedback, all this helps!


    Kevster, great trip report and pictures! Overall is looks like you had a incredible trip.


    Do you think a reef hook would help, or would it just get in the way? Can you swim to the bigger creatures or do you just have to hang on to the reef for dear life? Also, with the current that you mentioned, did you have any trouble keeping your mask on?




  14. I was able to get my hands on a Canon 50D today from a friend, and I did some strobe testing on the 40D housing... I was able to verify some of the issues with the 50D in the 40D housing, but I also found something interesting about the 40D in the 40D housing:


    1. I tested the Ikelite TTL & Manual Compensation Settings on the 40D housing using the 40D body, and here is what I found. I was trying to baseline what the 40D does in that housing. Indoor shots were taken to compare the relative brightness with each TTL flash compensation change:


    Ikelite -2/+2***40D -2/+2 read out***Actual strobe brightness

    *******-2.0********-2.0***********very dim


    *******-1.0********-1.0***********less dim

    *******-0.5********-0.5***********(-)correct brightness

    ********0*********+2.0***********VERY BRIGHT (THERE IS NO "0" COMPENSATION FROM THE IKELITE ELECTRONICS), the 40D thinks it's set a +2 flash exposure compensation?

    *******+0.5*******+0.5***********(+)correct brightness

    *******+1.0*******+1.0***********less bright


    *******+2.0*******+2.0***********very bright


    The Ikelite TTL Flash compensation DID NOT WORK PROPERLY AT A SETTING OF "0", in fact it showed up on the 40D as +2.0 of the camera's flash exposure compensation?! This is either a bug in the electronics of the housing or a defect in my electronics?


    I also manually changed the 40D flash exposure compensation and the strobes responded correctly, and when I set the flash compensation to "0" I did indeed get "correct brightness.


    I also tried the 50D in the 40D housing and indeed the Ikelite TTL compensation setting never made a corresponding change. I also tried to manually control the flash compensation through the 50D, but the strobes shot "Full brightness" regardless of how I had that set.


    Of course controlling the strobes via the strobe compensation dial works fine when using DS-125's.


    I will contact Ikelite about what I found on the 40D housing with the 40D body. I believe it is a bug/defect of my Ikelite electronics, because when I manually control it there is no problem.


    For kicks some of you should try and see if you have the same problem with the TTL compensation at "0" and report back. I just verified the strobes brightness with pictures up against a wall, with fixed manual camera settings, etc...




  15. Hey Gang,

    I'm going on a trip to the Galapagos Islands this November, actually in 3 weeks! I've never been to the Islands and was looking for some advice on the gear I should come with (Camera setups, Scuba gear, clothes, etc...). I'm trying to pack light as I don't want to overdue what I bring. And of course I'm trying to stay under the 50 lbs bag limits for the AA plane travel. Also, this is my first liveaboard (Deep Blue) and needed some feedback on liveaboard stays... There has been some suggestions from Deep Blue, but I'd like to hear from folks that have actually done these types of trips.


    My trip does not end at the Galapagos as it will continue onto Peru and Cuzco/Machu Picchu. If you have any advice for this region I would also appreciate that!


    Thank you for any feedback that you may have for this trip..




  16. Hey Gang,

    well it is official that the 40D housing does not function with the "TTL & Manual Compensation Settings" when using the 50D body. I asked Ikelite directly and below is Brett Foster's response from Ikelite. The upside on the message below is now Ikelite is going to offer adding the Liveview button also! This should make some of you happy. :) However, meanwhile the 50D will work fine in the 40D housing using your strobes in manual mode, by just dialing your strobe strength yourself. I'm sure many of you do this already and control the rest with your aperture settings and strobe angle...




    Message from Ikelite:



    Sorry, you must send the 40D housing to Ikelite for an electronics upgrade for the 50D to function properly in the 40D housing. We can also add the "liveview" button.


    Please send your housing along with a brief letter of explanation or this e-mail, and full contact information to:


    Ikelite Underwater Systems

    attn. Repair Dept.

    50 W. 33rd St.,

    Indpls., In 46208


    Please include your name, complete return address, e-mail, phone number, and your stated problem or service request. Normal turnaround time is 2-3 weeks.




    Brett S. Foster

    Ikelite Underwater Systems

    50 W. 33rd St.

    Indpls., In 46208



    ph. 317.923.4523

    fax: 317.924.7988

  17. No problem partner, I'm sensitive to the fact that a few thousand people are going to read the posts here over time and it's easy to make a negative comment that some folks could misunderstand. It's also easy to forget that there are people behind all these companies and that the overwhelming majority are busting there butts to make the customer (us) happy.

    I do understand and it would never be my intent to bite the hand that feeds me...


    Not sure if they do the machining in house or sub it out, but I know they do great work. Next time you're in Monterrey say hi to Berkley and the gang for me. I'll be happy and privileged to buy the first boat drink when we run into each other at a mahogany dropoff sometime. :)

    I will be seeing Berkley in 3 weeks, and we will be on a boat together going to the Galapagos Islands! :D I will let him know that I created an international incident over my loose lips! :P I hope I do run into you someday, you seem like a very decent man.


    Hey Aussie, for the record the first time I got off a plane in Sydney, I was struggling to understand what everyone around me was saying. I turned to my wife as we walked through customs and asked, "What language are they speaking"? She looked at me as only your wife can and said "it's Engish", (dummy).

    When I was in Australia for 3 weeks a couple years ago, I found the folks to be kind and genuine. I never thought I'd be insulting Aussie from Brisbane from this side of the globe.. Wow, a truly international incident I've created here! :)


    Sorry Aussie can't take a shot at you. In my experience Australia has the friendliest, most giving people on the planet. Well....., except maybe for Bruce. :D



    It sounds like I need to buy a lot of beers here!? When and where can I start on this?



  18. I reccon your havin a go at us Aussies now! Anyone else you want to give a hard time?



    Oh please tell me you're kidding?! I loved Australia and I loved the people, and my comment was a complement! The Aussies are some of the nicest people I've had the pleasure of being around. In fact, I'm trying to figure out how to get back to Australia for vacation! I felt the Aussies could say a lot with a few words, what is wrong with that? Heh... If you are serious you must not be from Australia! :)


    Please tell me that trying to gain knowledge in UW photography is not going to result in political correctness and miss understanding? Please tell me this is not so?


    I'm a very sensitive guy and you are starting to hurt my feelings now! :)


    Cheers Mate!


  19. Derek, I don't think you're familar with the work Backscatter does machining housings to accept larger viewfinders. Trust me, they don't do that by "whipping out their drill " :) . If they don't want to touch it I'm betting they have a good reason. For you to infer that they are incompetent is unfair.


    Hey Steve,

    it is funny how things get lost in translation, or when you don't know someone personally how the wrong meaning can come from it... You should go to Australia sometime, everyone talks in a very abbreviated speak... Its great... :) Trust me I have no intention of inferring that Backscatter is incompetent. I do admit that when I read over what I wrote it does sound that way a bit, but this was not what my meaning was!... Sorry to anyone that may have thought this was my meaning. To be exactly clear on this subject; I have been into Backscatter many times and I have never seen any serious machining tools, thus I was not surprised that they did not do precision house drilling for button add ons. Of course this is a big assumption to what tools they may have behind their curtains to do some special viewfinder work. Also, I'm sure any such work to the housing that was not done by Ikelite would void any warranty on that housing, and this could be a possible reason why they don't do this type of work? This is just another assumption.... Next time I'm in Backscatter I'll ask them personally what the shop is capable of doing, and then I'll be properly informed. Second, when I made the comment, "whipping out the drill", etc... I was really saying that some respect needs to be given to this project, and not to take it likely.


    I was just being lazy and threw the information down. Bottom line, Ikelite and Backscatter do not add Ikelite case function buttons. If you decide to do the job, make sure you have the right tools and you give proper respect to the job. This last statement is not coming from ignorance as I have worked in a machine shop and have a good idea of what is needed.


    Last, if any of you knew me personally you would know immediately it was never my style to slam anyone...




  20. Derek,


    Ikelite may offer a new 40D/50D housing, however the housing electronics must allow full TTL compatibility with both camera models. If this is achieved, we will likely offer an upgrade for the 40D housings. The button for live view will of course be added.


    We will post the latest updates on our website www.ikelite.com.




    Brett Foster - Ikelite


    Thanks Steve and Brett..


    I did call Backscatter and they will not do this type of case modifying... This does not surprise me as it would require some competent machining skills. In other words whipping out our home drill kit will not do the trick...


    Brett thanks for the update... I think folks are trying to avoid having to buy a new case for simply a single button problem. My understanding is that the eTTL is identical for both the 40D and 50D..




  21. A while back I considered adding a button to an Ike housing and discussed this with the UK distributor. I recall they recommended a certain 'procedure' to safely drill the required hole so it worth checking this first. If you were in the UK I'd suggest talking to Kevin at Aquaphot and have him do the job...


    I looked closer at my 40D Ikelite housing and the work to add the 50D LiveView push pin looks doable, but you would need some good tools. From what I can see you would need to make three distinct holes, all with the the exact same center. The three holes enclose different parts of the push pin hardware. The largest hole supports and houses a spring, which retracts the the pin once you pushed it in. The second hole, which is mid way and very shallow, supports the water sealing O ring. Last, the smallest diameter hole supports the push pin itself. If you had a drill press, two flat ended drill bits (sprig hole, O ring hole) and a drill bit for the pin hole, you could do the required drilling on the 40D housing. Some experience with a micrometer would get you the required depth of the two critical hole depths, using the adjacent "menu" pin hole dimensions as your reference. Of course you need the pin hardware to complete this project, and I'm assuming Ikelite would sell this to us. On the short term I'll stick with looking through the viewfinder if I go to the 50D body. However, if you have some good skill with the above tools this is a doable job.




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