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Deep6

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Posts posted by Deep6

  3. Posted

    I am really struggling with lighting when using my mini dome :) Especially when shooting stuff right on the dome. I seem to be getting hotspots, and find it exceptionally difficult to evenly light a subject.

     

    Does anybody have any pointers? I have tried dialling down the power and having them right next to the shade, out a bit, out further etc.

    The vis out here (Bahrain) can be very soupy at times, lots of particles in the water.

     

    It's an Ikelite housing, UWCamerastuff mini-dome (5") with 2x S&S YS110. I have 2 segment arms, so can use just one or two segments. I currently have the diffusers on all the time.

     

    Thanks for any pointers

     

    Sean

    Check out Mike's CFWA article here on WP.

    Near and Far

     

    Bob

  4. Posted

    Thanks for reply Alex have tried cleaning with rubber eraser and a little spirit on cotton bud. No change in status. I note that the first of the contact pins is slightly less proud than the rest and wonder if this fails to make contact wiith the contacts on the D300s but just touches enough on the D70.

    Will try to contact Sigma.

    Cheers Tim Digger

    Bad joss Tim. Is there any wiggle when the Sigma is mounted?

    Bob

  6. Posted

    A small focus light with a wide beam works best, the Sola 600 has rapidly become very popular. The movement of the housing/port system is one of those things that makes life difficult: lots of practice, good diving technique and bracing the system against rock help. I sometimes brace my left ring finger against rock and rest the housing on my index finger and thumb, but, mostly, I use continuous AF with focus prioritised and move the focus area to match the subject in the frame. Sometimes it doesn't work (and a 105mm lens is worse!).

     

    Tim

     

    :)

    Those are all good tips. Buoyancy control is critical. For macro, I use a fiberglass stick as a “monopod” and brace with elbows on rib cage and housing pressed against mask. Try using higher shutter speeds – 1/125 – to whatever your camera can sync with. I use the older 60 and 105 Nikkor macros. The 60 focuses sufficiently fast at night with a very dim red light. I use the 105 in manual almost always. Place spot focus on the critical spot, e.g. the eye of your subject and you will see the green ball when it is in focus. I use continuos AF.

    Bob

  7. Posted

    According to Nikon Rumours, Nikon has confirmed major press events on August 24th; of course speculation is that potential offerings are D4, D400 and Nikon's new mirrorless offering. Seems like a D800 is unlikely till next year.

    Thom Hogan discusses the probable new mirrorless format of 2.7 crop. He argues that it could actually be the perfect format between P&S and present DSLR and mirror less formats. If small enough and with the right lens support this camera format could be a great underwater entry level format.

     

    http://bythom.com/

    http://nikonrumors.com/

    Ah, 2**1/2 be or not 2**1/2 be? If it is a CoolPix, then it will likely not be an interchangeable lens camera. It’s hard to make really wide angle or fish-eye lenses on the very small format cameras. But, I agree it may be a good pocket rocket and travel u/w rig for the size consciences.

    Bob

  8. Posted

    Well, you guys weren't kidding. I went on a dive today and took (what i expected to be) great shots. Apparently after two or three shots, the film somehow came off the sprockets and when I thought I was advancing the film, I was really just exposing the same slide over and over. I have no idea how this happened. All I know is that I had some great shots lined up and I am pretty frustrated. Also, I have just been taking the film to get developed at 1 hour photo and put on a cd because I haven't gotten a hang of film yet so I dont expect any great shots. However, I was wondering how everybody else develops their "keepers" because the images from the 1 hour photo are obviously not top quality. I am completely new to film and am appreciative of every bit of advice I can get. I know some of you have many years of experience and I appreciate you taking the time to read my posts.

    1.) Focus & use

    Check out Jim & Cathy Church's Nikonos Handbook

    2.) Development

    I don't know who is doing E6 processing. I used Fuji or Kodak mailers. Check the net for current processors.

     

    Don't be afraid to use the higher ISO slide film.

     

    Luck,

    Bob

  11. Posted

    I found the ds-51 very weak. However with a 60MM you need to get very close to get a true macro shot so it may be OK. The problem is that it is difficult to move a single strobe side to side and sometimes the strobe will be on the wrong side. Since you have an Ike housing you should stick with Ike strobes TTL is fine for macro.

     

    The D-200 is still fine for underwater use.

    With a GN of 28/ ft, that's GN of 56/ft @ ISO 200, the DS51 has plenty of power for macro. You could shoot f/16 at 3 feet!

  12. Posted

    Funny they keep sticking with basically a 4 year old sensor...

    Don,

    Thanks for the links. May be not so funny; I think Panasonic makes their sensor. Let's see what the Pany G3 new sensor will do and maybe Sony's Nex 7 in August.

    Bob

  13. Posted

    Wow thats unreal! I just picked up an old rolleicord that i've been playing with. I'd love to house it.

     

    I imagine the inverted mirror will be frustrating underwater when trying to compose ;)

    Yo Cal,

    I see you are into this retro thing. It's really quite easy to adapt, but not so good for quick action. Beautiful 6x6 B&W's. Being "down under" wouldn't this be natural for you? :)

    Bob

  14. Posted

    I have recently acquired a Rolleimarin IV + Rolleiflex 3.5F in exceptional condition. I have tested it in a swimming pool at 3m and did not see the hint of a problem.

    I intend to take it down to approx. 30m for my summer dives and could use a bit of advice.

     

    1. Film, I intend to go for 400 asa films and try a buit of B&W as well as Colour

     

    2. Light meter, there is no light meter on the camera, I have seen a few Sekonic Marine on e-bay, would that be a good choice?

     

    3. Flash, the original flash came with the housing but it looks like a disposable bulb flash. Is there any way to find these anymore? Alternatively, are there any more modern flash that would fit such an ancient housing?

     

    Finally, I am amazed that the housing was still perfectly functional and waterproof after so many years (although it looks like it has never been used).

    What I don't know is if the pressure at 30m will make a difference, I am thinking no but I might be wrong...

    Way Cool! I have an old Rolle Tessar, but haven't the guts to take it swimming. Ernie Brooks uses 100 ISO pushed to 200 for B/W underwater. I have use ISO 400 in the deep w/o a strobe, but I think 100 is better. The meters are good. I have a Sekonic with battery if you want to buy it. I also have some ikelite Ais and cords. You will need to adapt the connection on the housing. The strobes would be only manual in this case.

     

    PM me if you are interested.

    Bob

  15. Posted

    look at the prices they want for their better quality, faster AF lenses, and you might as well buy leica...

    The new lenses are labled MSC (Movie & Still Compatible). The lenses are new and not likely to be discounted too soon. USD to Yen is ~ 1: 80 which doesn't help.

    14-42 ~ $300

    12 f/2 $800

    45 f/1.8 $400

     

    Gee, a slower Leica 24 mm f/3.8 MF lens would only put you out $2,500 ;) Sigma will make 4/3 lenses and the Oly prices may come down. You could put some of the Panasonic lenses on this 4/3 mount and the would say "Leica".

     

    Let's just wait to see what shakes out.

     

    Bob

  16. Posted

    [snip]

    I heard that the new af on the 3 pens', is at par/better than a dslr (correct me on that)

    The ad itself stated "world's fastest".

    [snip]

    Final word, great job Oly for listening, just dont suck on the final product.

     

    (ps: im not an oly fanboy, although i own one of their product)

    A qualifier for "world's fastest"; it is single not continuous focus mode. It does look like a much improved camera. I don't own one now, but I might!

    Bob

  17. Posted

    I would leave the VR on and set it to active. "Normal" is meant for panning from a steady base and "active" for motion that is unpredictable (riding in a car or in a boat). As mentioned in the prior post, above a certain shutter speed it doesn't matter.

     

    SD

    I should have added increase the ISO to get "sharper" shots. You can reduce the noise with editing, but not improve a blurry image.

    Bob

  22. Posted

    There is always something lost in translation....... I backed up on the Athena page and starting reading about the strobe housing. "Latch&F***" hmmmm, for opening and closing of body????

    Got a chuckle out of that one.

    ;) Well, it is for opening & closing body.

  23. Posted

    Three new PEN cameras have been released, two with Olympus housings now rated to 45 meters. The new housings also feature built-in LED focusing lights for macro use. A new 12mm f/2 lens is also being released. At a retail price of around $1200.00 for camera, 14-42mm zoom, housing and zoom gear this is still a great entry level camera package.

     

    http://www.olympus-global.com/en/news/2011...10630epl3e.html

     

    Phil Rudin

    Phil,

    Thanks for the link. So, the Oly housings are for the PM1 & the PL3 and not for the P3. Your eyes may be better than mine; are there fiber optic connection? Will the LEDs cut off with the flash cycle? Otherwise, could have backscatter since the 4 lights are point straight ahead.

    Bob

  24. Posted

    More importantly, will it be any better than other Olympus products in low light...

     

    My 520 is great in good light but unusable in low. I haven't found much amelioration with the 620. Not sure about the Pen line. Any opinions about low light performance of the Pen?

    Not yet Rene. There are reviews all over the Net, but just refer to the "revised" 12 MB sensor. Full reviews should be coming in soon.

    Bob

  25. Posted · Edited by Deep6

    Looks like the new salvo in the pocket rocket war. Fast AF, but may be based on 35 IR or Green sensors (pixels) on the sensor. I don't think IR based IF will do us much good underwater.

    Bob

     

    See 43 Rumors

     

    PEN E-P3 – main features:Image Quality

    Powerful image processor TruePic VI, a faster response time and excellent picture quality

    Extremely effective, integrated in the body image stabilization for both video and sharp, blur-free images – works with any lens

    12.3 effective megapixel sensor, High Speed ​​Live MOS sensor for the perfect operation in low light and when shooting HD

    To ISO 12800

    Record 1080i HD video with stereo audio, AVCHD recording format or the Motion JPEG

    Compatibility with the new generation of dedicated lenses PEN

     

    Ease of use

    World’s fastest autofocus system – FAST AF – the camera with interchangeable lenses, from 35 AF points, highlighting the AF for pictures in low light and AF tracking the subject even outside the frame

    Super light, providing wide viewing angles, touch screen 3.0 inch OLED screen with a resolution of 610.000 points – provides photo-quality color reproduction

    Separate knobs for setting shutter speed and exposure

    Touch Guide Live Guide available for filming and shooting HD, also in P / S / M / A

    Live View mode and HD movie photos

    3 programmable buttons

    The scale level to facilitate the setting position in relation to the horizon

    Easy to use menu function in the form of wheel settings – Live Wheel

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