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Everything posted by Deep6

  1. Gaffer's or Photographic tape - no residue. Tape Bob
  2. If Howard Hall can do IMAX (size of a VW beetle), I suppose you could do 4x5. I have never head of one. What a PITA! Just a bigger box and a boat anchor for ballast. You could DIY a DX box with PC lens. Bob
  3. Good point John. Selecting a Nikon or Canon body puts you into a "system". I my system evolved with the F3HP, F4s, N90s, D200, and D80. I sold by old 50 mm f/1.8 AIS, but I use the rest of my Nikkor lens arsenal. The question is which system? Given a few more iterations, lenses, and a pro oriented UI, Sony will become a big player. (IMHO). Bob
  4. Oh yeah, I've done that. Better - try Rosco diffuser sheets. Cheap and the guys at B&H can help you find -1/3 to -2 EV. Bob
  5. Large sponges! They are infinitely patient, very approachable, come in various colors, ... OK, remove tongue from cheek. They are good targets to lean strobe positioning. Bob
  6. Here's how to save $6,800 - read Thom Hogan's slam of the SD1 IQ. TH 2011-05-26 SD1 Bob
  7. You may be interested in Michael Reichmann's musing on the SD1 price. $150,000 Ford Focus Bob
  8. I used to fill a waste basket with my crap-ish slides; now they go into the bit bucket. Thanks for the laugh. Bob
  9. Well yeah, I am a Nikon bigot also Though the GH1 UI is relatively good, I find that I long for the ease of use of my Nikons. I perfer my D200 over my D80 (except for size & weight). That's the unsaid in my orginal post. I am looking for a small and light travel camera with decent video that might also be used u/w. The Nex (*) could do it with more direct drive (buttons) and lenses. Nikon is unlikely to produce anything like this for many years to come (IMHO). Bob
  10. Driving Your Camera by Sean Reid This article put me in the amen seats. What I read from the likes of Thom Hogan, Michael Reichman, etc, is that digital camera designers are engineers not photographers. Bob
  11. The possible new lenses don't look too promising for u/w. Lens Road Map
  12. Ditto to Steve and above. Please inform us of the insurer. Bob
  13. I agree. The Hugy Check uses a 3 VDC battery. Is it completely insolated from the camera housing? The strobe circuitry looks complicated. Any possible leaks here? You might try this. Submerse housing in sea water without camera and check battery. Corrosion? If not, add check battery and repeat and if OK then the camera fully hooked up and so on. Isn’t there a warranty on a new housing? Shouldn’t Hugy stand up for their product? Bob
  14. Hey Chriso, Just grab the foam cozy from your Murrays Wild Thing and cut a section to go arround the Tok. Light loves negative space. Bob
  15. I think the AF problem can be solved in hardware. Consider the small Sony NEX 5 camera with a relatively large APS-C sensor. Phase detection auto focusing would only require a few sites to be effective. Bob
  16. The Inons with fiber connection should not be a problem. Nothing but non-conductive connections. I don't think the strobe arms should be a problem, but they could be isolated if required. The Li battery inside may be the problem. I don't know the Hugy housing. Is this a moisture alarm or a part of the Hugy check system? If possible, make sure there is no conductivity between the battery and the housing. With the nylon straps, I don't think this a suspect. Galvanizing is plating zinc onto another metal. The more the surface area, the more the Zn will be "sacrificed". Check out a marine supply store for Zn plates. They are used on motors and keels to prevent this problem. Galvinizing plate will not last as long as a Zn rod or plate. Unfortunately this crosive action will continue. Consider replacing the affected buttons and controls. Bob
  17. Yo Jeff, If the Nikkor 12-24 is not sharp, it could be your diopter and or dome combination. The bad news for any lens is nothing will be sharp at 30 feet; water will difuse the image. Bob
  18. Hugy support is correct. Salt water is an excellent electrical conductor. You can consult your countryman’s (Mendeleyev) periodic table to see that copper (CU) and zinc (ZN) are more reactive than aluminum (AL) or iron (FE). I had a similar problem when I used ikelite Ai strobes with aluminum housing. I think they ground to the housing. I added zinc “electrodes” attached to the housing. That helped. If it where my 2K euro housing, I would have it refurbished by Hugy and consult with them about what of your diving equipment could be causing the problem. Bob
  19. Nice link, thanks Karel. We should remember Doc. Edgerton's electronic flash as a major contribute to u/w photography as opposed to Mg power or flash bulbs bobbing up in Haiphong harbor. Hey Jacques! Hands off the coral. Bob
  20. We did, but sometimes they boomerang, ouy! Bob
  21. I like the etched button ID. Thanks for the info. Bob
  22. Wow, full marks - Mark. Thanks for sharing. Bob
  23. You are welcome Karen. I was well rewarded by visiting your site. Stunning work! Bob
  24. Underwater Photo-Tech merged with Backscatter. May be they have an e-mail for Fred Dion. sales@backscatter.com Bob
  25. Yes, my sentiments exactly. Nikon tends to be more transparent with their business disclosures than Canon. Bob
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