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Deep6

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Posts posted by Deep6

  1. Posted

    Hi, I have had the Nauticam zoom gear/lens casing separation problem with my 10-17. It's nothing too drastic - it fits back together OK and works fine - but the black tape probably seals the electronics and optics inside from the ingress of dust. Have you re-taped yours together and if so what tape did you use? I don't want to use something that will leave a sticky residue over time.

     

    I haven't had the lens aperture problem with my D7000/10-17.

     

    Mark

    Gaffer's or Photographic tape - no residue.

    Tape

     

    Bob

  2. Posted

    Hey Crew

     

    Has anyone ever housed a 4x5 linhof or something similar?

     

    I know medium format cameras have been housed commonly but I'm talking about a 4x5 system with bellows and ground glass.

     

    I'm thinking its impossible due to camera lens tilt etc required to make the photographs?

     

    Cheers

     

    Cal

    If Howard Hall can do IMAX (size of a VW beetle), I suppose you could do 4x5. I have never head of one. What a PITA! Just a bigger box and a boat anchor for ballast. You could DIY a DX box with PC lens.

    Bob

  3. Posted

    One thing is for sure, any current body is better than what you could buy 4years ago and any body you buy 4 years from now will be better than the current ones.

     

    You very likely will be using the same lenses :)

     

    JP

    Good point John. Selecting a Nikon or Canon body puts you into a "system". I my system evolved with the F3HP, F4s, N90s, D200, and D80. I sold by old 50 mm f/1.8 AIS, but I use the rest of my Nikkor lens arsenal. The question is which system? Given a few more iterations, lenses, and a pro oriented UI, Sony will become a big player. (IMHO).

    Bob

  5. Posted

    There are critters of all shapes and sizes that seem to make great photographic subjects, and are on many people's wishlist to see and photograph. Some critters are a challenge to find(Pygmy Seahorse), others are common, but make great subjects(Clownfish, Lionfish etc), while others present a sheer thrill to photograph (shark and whale dives). Others are just wonderfully unique (Leafy Seadragon).

     

    What's on your Top Ten (or Top 5) Critter list? And what dive sites do you want to visit to see them in?

    Large sponges! They are infinitely patient, very approachable, come in various colors, ...

    OK, remove tongue from cheek. They are good targets to lean strobe positioning.

    Bob

  9. Posted

    Maybe (read the article) it's because I use a D300s, but I haven't found the key controls a problem on digital Nikon SLRs. I only use one or two menu-driven controls underwater (typically flash mode, toggling between TTL and manual), and since the menu sits on the last item accessed, it's not a big problem. Luckily, mirror lock-up isn't often needed underwater!

     

    Tim

     

    :B):

    Well yeah, I am a Nikon bigot also :P Though the GH1 UI is relatively good, I find that I long for the ease of use of my Nikons. I perfer my D200 over my D80 (except for size & weight). That's the unsaid in my orginal post. I am looking for a small and light travel camera with decent video that might also be used u/w. The Nex (*) could do it with more direct drive (buttons) and lenses. Nikon is unlikely to produce anything like this for many years to come (IMHO).

    Bob

  11. Posted

    Yes, the reviews on the Nex 5 sound like the menu system is somewhat cumbersome. Don't know how bad that will be to access the normal functions used underwater. The least appealing thing is the lack of wide angle lens. I think I would want around 15-18mm (on 35mm equivalent) and a good macro around 70-100mm.

    The Panasonic GH2 sounds really nice (I like the viewfinder for topside shooting) and it looks like the lens are available, and may be less expensive than the Olympus EP2 (the Zuiko lens are really expensive, anyone know if they are that good optically?) But I think there is only one housing available for the GH2 and that is the 10bar.

    So if you want a system now the Oly EP2 may be the best choice, I think I'll wait a few more months and see what develops for the GH2 and maybe lens for the Nex5.

    I'm looking hard at these camera systems for the near future. I was going to house my 5D2 but the weight and size makes it difficult to carry-on for travel. These systems look to be much easier to carry and should be nice enough for the results I want.

    The possible new lenses don't look too promising for u/w.

    Lens Road Map

  12. Posted

    I agree, which insurance company is this?

    I think if it were me that I would strongly insist that at the least they give me the money rather than purchase a highly questionable camera. That way you could buy a refurbed model or new one at your choice. And I would NEVER give them my credit card info.

    Good luck I hope it works out for you.

    Who is the recommended insurer?

    Ditto to Steve and above. Please inform us of the insurer.

    Bob

  13. Posted

    Yes, looks like it - or less likely aluminium. Huggy will tell you.

     

    They've taken a bit of action too in just 10 dives. It looks like they were machined so doubt they were pitted when the housing was new.

    I can only say again that I think you should be looking for some source of stray current. The strobes with fibre optic are unlikely candidates, particularly if they have plastic ball ends.

    I agree. The Hugy Check uses a 3 VDC battery. Is it completely insolated from the camera housing? The strobe circuitry looks complicated. Any possible leaks here? You might try this. Submerse housing in sea water without camera and check battery. Corrosion? If not, add check battery and repeat and if OK then the camera fully hooked up and so on.

     

    Isn’t there a warranty on a new housing? Shouldn’t Hugy stand up for their product?

     

    Bob

  14. Posted

    G'day All

    Wondering if anyone else is using this combination and if you have a fix, first time I have had the new glass underwater, thinking I am going to have to build in a baffle of some sort.

     

    Nauticam D300s

    Zen 9" Glass

    Tokina 10-17 fisheye

     

    And the result....

     

    Hey Chriso,

     

    Just grab the foam cozy from your Murrays Wild Thing and cut a section to go arround the Tok. Light loves negative space.

    Bob

  15. Posted

    There is a lot of room for improvement in camera SYSTEM firmware.

     

    This is the real time aspect of camera operations. And this is where canon, nikon, and olympus really fail to deliver; their implementation of contrast based auto focus, is just not on par with panasonic or sony.

    I think the AF problem can be solved in hardware. Consider the small Sony NEX 5 camera with a relatively large APS-C sensor. Phase detection auto focusing would only require a few sites to be effective.

    Bob

  16. Posted

    I use 2 x Z240 strobes with fibre optic cable and there is also the CR123A lithium battery inside the housing.

    The Inons with fiber connection should not be a problem. Nothing but non-conductive connections. I don't think the strobe arms should be a problem, but they could be isolated if required.

     

    The Li battery inside may be the problem. I don't know the Hugy housing. Is this a moisture alarm or a part of the Hugy check system? If possible, make sure there is no conductivity between the battery and the housing.

     

    I use the line also with s/s snaps to fasten the housing to the harness. Maybe it works as a conductor?

    I'll try to change s/s snaps to plastic, but now it's too late =(

    With the nylon straps, I don't think this a suspect. Galvanizing is plating zinc onto another metal. The more the surface area, the more the Zn will be "sacrificed". Check out a marine supply store for Zn plates. They are used on motors and keels to prevent this problem. Galvinizing plate will not last as long as a Zn rod or plate.

     

    Unfortunately this crosive action will continue. Consider replacing the affected buttons and controls.

     

    Bob

  17. Posted

    I "think" I am looking for a "mid" distance lens to capture schooling sharks and groups of rays.

     

    I have a 16mm prime Nikkor that I love, but you need to get close to get great shots. And my 12-24 (with a diopter) and my 18-70 Nikon (stock) lens just are not sharp for animals that are 30-80' away.

    Yo Jeff,

    If the Nikkor 12-24 is not sharp, it could be your diopter and or dome combination. The bad news for any lens is nothing will be sharp at 30 feet; water will difuse the image.

    Bob

  18. Posted

    Hi guyz! I have some problem with Hugyfot housing, give me some advice plz. After 10 days of using in saltwater the buttons looks terrible. They are made from brass with a nickel plating and the plating has been eaten away. Pascal Eeckhoudt (from Hugyfot support) said me that the reason is due to potential difference (electrical circuit) created by all metal parts surrounding the housing (including diving gear). It sounds fantastic! I have some metal parts on my equipment like D-rings etc, but I can't believe it causes any problems. It seems more likely that the problem is with the poor quality of buttons. I've seen some Hugyfot owners here, tell me please do you have this experience?

     

    Probably this will not affect the water tightness, but it looks like a s**t and doesn't make me happy after payment 2000 euro for the housing =(

    Hugy support is correct. Salt water is an excellent electrical conductor. You can consult your countryman’s (Mendeleyev) periodic table to see that copper (CU) and zinc (ZN) are more reactive than aluminum (AL) or iron (FE). I had a similar problem when I used ikelite Ai strobes with aluminum housing. I think they ground to the housing. I added zinc “electrodes” attached to the housing. That helped.

     

    If it where my 2K euro housing, I would have it refurbished by Hugy and consult with them about what of your diving equipment could be causing the problem.

     

    Bob

  19. Posted

    Hi Crew!

     

    I found this link quite interesting NG:Milestones in Underwater Photography

    I had no idea the first UW color shot was taken in 1926 :)

     

    And how about those flashes they used for that!!! :)

     

    Cheers

    Karel

    Nice link, thanks Karel.

    We should remember Doc. Edgerton's electronic flash as a major contribute to u/w photography as opposed to Mg power or flash bulbs bobbing up in Haiphong harbor. Hey Jacques! Hands off the coral.

    Bob

  21. Posted

    I bought the Hugy D7000, here you can see pictures of what it comes with:

     

    http://www.forobuceo.com/phpBB3/viewtopic....f=6&t=86542

     

    Those pics will be included in a review I plan to write in Wetpixel as soon as I use it in enough dives. I did Hugyfot D200 and D300 reviews previously. My opinion could be biased towards Hugyfot, specially when I have not seen/tried the Aquatica but, living so close to Hugy´s office I would choose Hugy (if I lived less than an hour from Aquatica I would probably choose Aquatica). Both housings will serve you well.

    I like the etched button ID. Thanks for the info.

    Bob

  24. Posted

    HI All

     

    Does anyone know how to contact Fred? I know he merged with someone a couple of years ago, but would like to get an up to date email address?

     

    Many thanks

    Karen

    Underwater Photo-Tech merged with Backscatter. May be they have an e-mail for Fred Dion.

    sales@backscatter.com

     

    Bob

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