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Deep6

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Posts posted by Deep6

  1. Posted

    I have not experienced this problem on land. Are your flash settings on the camera set to Auto also, or perhaps somehow switched to manual?

     

    Underwater, I set the internal flash to Fill and only use manual exposure settings, as the camera does not know that you have strobes attached and will not meter correctly.

    This is working for me. Use fill when not set to manual.

    Bob

  2. Posted

    The Olympus 45mm F1.8 is an excellent lens but NOT a macro lens. I own the Panasonic 45 macro and the Olympus 60 macro. All things considered the 60 macro would be a better choice for you. It fits the 12-50 port, the 45 will not. Longer reach, focus limiting in the macro range and better suited to +5/10 close up lenses.

     

    Phil Rudin

    I use the Oly 60 mm in the 12-50 port with a +6 diopter (flip mounted). I do like the 12-50 a lot.

    Bob

  5. Posted

    After using the heavy and bulky 12-50 with zoom gear on land, I looked on ebay and found a like-new 12-50 for $200.00. I use that for travel and the lens with gear stays dedicated to underwater. I find it too much of a pain to take the zoom gear on and off on a daily basis when I travel. The 12-50 is so tiny it fits in my pocket easily so it is no extra burden to travel with it.

    I leave the zoom gear on the 12-50 and use the pany 14-140. If the price drops on the 12-40 f/2.8, I might consider buying it.

  6. Posted

    Not to take this thread too far off topic, but I see that Adam stated he just rinses his housing at the end of the day. I personally rinse after every dive, working all the buttons. I wonder if my rinsing with fresh water between dives is necessary. I have been under the perception that this would help prevent salt crystal formation. Any other opinions out there?

    If available, I rinse the housing (working buttons) after each dive. If not, then I cover with a wet towel or rag and keep the housing in shade. I recently had a rinse tank flood. No damage to camera or lens. I think one of the crew accidently release the housing back lock. The wet alarm went off. Now I am the only one to rinse my housing.

    Bob

  11. Posted · Edited by Deep6

    Is there a good and easy solution to use a redfilter with the lumix 7-14 lense inside a UW-Housing without tu much handicraft work?

    In days of old, we would mount (tape) gel filters to the rear element of the lens. With the exposed sensor and short flange to sensor distance of the 4/3 cameras, I don't think I would do this. Have you tried white balancing?

    Bob

  12. Posted

    I can answer the first set of questions. It is not all that time consuming to install and remove the Nauticam gear. Once you have done it a couple of times, it takes less than 10 minutes, and after you are really familiar, maybe less then 5 minutes. Although it is not a simple procedure, it is also not difficult as long as you have practiced and take your time to do it carefully under good conditions. And yes, you can use the lens top side with the gear installed. But be aware that it is heavy, limits you to e-zoom (manual zoom is not available), and affects handling compared to a naked lens.

    I agree with troporobo. You can use the 12-50 with the gears installed for top side photography. I really like the versatility of the zoom range and can go to the 43 mm macro mode with a turn of the knob on the port. I wasn't a big fan of the servo zoom, but I am OK with it. I suggest you do not uninstall/install the gears while on a dive trip because there are several tiny screws that could be misplaced.

     

    Bob

  17. Posted

    Has there been any consideration of the SD card that's being used? I only ever use SanDisk Extreme Pro 95MB/s SD cards and only shoot raw. I've never seen a crash whether using MF with focus on movie record button or using just S-AF. Card issues have been implicated in lockups in other cameras. It's highly likely that any SD card issues are less related to price, speed, or performance of the SD card and more related to the manufacturer's interpretation and compliance with standards and/or the card or camera's sensitivity to non-compliance or uncommon timing issues. Shooting RAW+JPG could exacerbate issues with some SD cards. It's possible that such issues may only arise with some SD cards when they get warm. It's also certainly possible that an issue with an SD card only occurs with certain settings.

    I have not had this problem. I only use SanDisk SD cards. Bob

  18. Posted

    Ive got a small problem when filming movies in my nauticam housing. There is a constant buzzing noise which didnt appear to be a problem when i first used it underwater. I basically have to mute all sound from my films if they were filmed in the housing.

     

    I cant hear a small noise when filming on land but it does not affect the sound of the films.

     

    Has this happened to anyone else?

    Yep, that's your IS. Bob

  20. Posted

    Please note that my problem is not loss of contact with the mode dial but too much push!

     

    Incidentally I've found the problem playing with the mode dial. If you push it horizontally, there is some contact somewhere and the camera enters in iAuto mode. Aparently under pressure, the wheel of the housing is pushing too much the mode dial. I guess the rubber in the wheel of the housing is too thick.

     

    Not sure what to do now, changing the rubber can void the warranty of the housing...

    Basic check: You did remove the rubber eye cup on the view finder?

    Bob

  21. Posted

    In my housing the inside rubber contact wheel also lost contact with the camera's dial, and I had to change to a slightly larger diameter one. Some times I still experience slippage, and I just have to jiggle the inner cone-shaped rubber contact around and it would work again.

     

    Also, you will probably soon find the dials caps fall off the camera (the metal disc that has the markings), you will just have to glue them back. I believe it happened to several people.

    I haven't had either of these problems, but I am making notes to take larger contact wheels & glue. TIA.

    Bob

  22. Posted

    I got my NA-EM5 housing this week and I am very, very happy with it. Especially the 1250 port & gear is great. The engineers from Nauticam did an amazing job. Also the M67 flip is great and easy to apply. Together with the 60 macro for me it's almost a perfect setup. But I need an additional WA lens for landscape, wrecks and so on. Also for on land pictures. I don't want to assemble the 1250 gear all the time, so it just stays on the lens for forever :)

     

    I'm thinking about the Oly 9-18. So I went trough all the posts of this topic but didn't find a lot of information regarding this lens with the 4" Nauti Dome. Most of the guys are using the Pana 7-14. But this lens is much more expensive and the 6" Nauti Dome seems much bigger than the 4". And yes, there is the 8mm FE, very nice lens but not actually a good lens for overwater...And due to the $-situation my priority is a WA-zoom lens which is also nice for on land pictures, underwater video. And for the moment, I don't want to buy 2 more ports, 1 more is enough :)

     

    Is there anyone who's using the 9-18 with the 4" who could give me some advise? Or should I forget about that lens and go with the 7-14?

    For me the 9-18 is also interesting because of the short minimal focus distance (0.15m).

    I went with the 7-14, but have not shot enough yet for a report. I chose it for the choice zoom range and the relatively fast (and fixed) f-stop. Also, a good range for land photo. I would like the equivalent of the Tonk 10-17 FE. Maybe some day.

    Bob

  23. Posted

    Hi Chris,

     

    To tell the truth I am not very concerned about the capabilities of Nikon D90. I think it is fast enough and the resolution and imgae quality it provides is more then I need. I agree that it is already an old camera but I don't see my self upgrading to a higher model.

     

    I have searched for second hand housing for my D90 but i couldn't find anything/ Ikelite is not an option for me cause I really do not trust plastic especially if I will be using a DSLR inside it. Hugyfot was my option because it is easy to get in Netherlands, fairly priced among competiton for metal housings and it looks to have a very good slim design.

     

    Anyway, I think I will check my options a bit more and probably go for the E-M5. i just have to be sure if the Macro 60 mm Nautica port can be used with 12-50mm with the addition of this 3rd party zoom gear.

     

    But I still appreciate any more comments, advises.

     

    Thanks

     

     

    I went to Lembeh this year and really had a ball shooting with my new Nauti EM-5 rig. I use the 12-50 and the 60 mm macro in the 12-50 port with a flip 6x diopter. While this port with zoom is considerably more than the 60, I think having the zoom/macro switch options are highly desirable. I used the fuIl range of the 12-50 and for a quick 1:1 macro just used the macro button. OBTW, 1:1 on M43 is 22.5 mm while the D90 is 29 mm.

     

    I will be putting my Nexus D80 rig up for sale soon.

     

    Bob

  24. Posted

    Just a couple more questions:

     

    1. Any one used this and is it worthwhile from V1.2 firmware update? "Olympus also added functions to automatically move focus to the wide zoom position when underwater macro or underwater wide macro modes are selected with a Zuiko ED 12-50mm f/3.5-6.3 EZ lens attached."

     

    2. When Alex mentions the 60 port is he referring to the macro 65 #36163 in Nauticam port chart?

     

    3. How do you adjust the euro zoom gear when there does not appear to be a knob on the port to turn it? Is there a knob on the housing?

    I use the 12-50 & the 60 mm lenses in the 12-50 port. This works well. As I recall, the euro zoom is controlled by the gear in the Nauti body, but then there is no control for manual focus.

    Bob

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