Jump to content

Deep6

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    916

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Deep6

  3. Posted

    I've bought a used D300 to use on land. Unfortunately, it came without the manual. The manual is available for downloading but I would like to have the paper version. If anyone has one they no longer need, e.g. from a broken or flooded camera, I would be very grateful if they woud let me know. Thanks!

    John

     

    Register your camera with Nikon and then you can download a printable version.

     

    Bob

  4. Posted

    hi,

    Im trying to found out what to do first.

    Buying the naauticam viewfinder or a second strobe ?

    At this moment i have a D7000 with Strobe inon S-2000.

    Lenses Macro 60mm AF-D and tokina 10-17.

     

    The second strobe would be handy for better lighting, especially i will dont need any more colour correcting filters for wide angle.

     

    The viewfinder is another story, because i have only 10 percent sight left....

    Would this be a great releaf, so that i can see the viewfinder better ?

    Would it be more help(better images) or would a strobe do that, bearing in mind my visual problem.

     

    If you like to see some photos of me, so you can see what could be more of a help

    Go to my blog www.facebook.com/photographingblind

     

    I am seconding Steve's suggestion; for macro, you can do a lot with one strobe and a good focus light. Can you try someone's rig with the added view finder?

    Bob

    • Like 1

  5. Posted

    Phil

    As always, your knowledge and willingness to contribute meaningful information about lenses etc to these discussions is greatly appreciated. This forum is a treasure trove to those seeking useful discussion (and opinion) about the equipment they are using or intend to purchase. I often find it interesting to note that many wetpixel participants are scattered around the globe, often without local UW photography stores or experts nearby. This makes a venue like WP one of the few places folks can turn to for in depth discussion on these issues

     

    Cheers

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

     

    Ditto, in spades!

    Bob

  6. Posted

    For me, Lembeh has never been about the tiny, tiny. I think it is more unique for the large amounts of bigger creatures: frogfish, cephalopods, weird scorpionfish etc - and these are very much 60mm subjects in FX.

     

    This page on my website describes my last trip to Lembeh (in 2009), which was before subsets, but it was a full frame trip. There is a paragraph on the lenses I took.

    http://www.amustard....=lmb09_gal_temp

     

    Alex

     

    I love looking at your work. I have the Oly 12-50; It seems to me this lens in the flat port with the manual zoom and a Subsee 5x should do the trick. Likely a 60 mm as a back up and the 7-14 for reefs up North. Thanks.

    Bob

  9. Posted

    Tried with the 60mm and the housing was slightly positive. Although was easy to handle with just a finger, even for mermaids:

    Alex

     

    Nice model! Will you have a chance to try these Popeys on the Nauti for Oly E-M with 4" and 60 mm ports? With all you diving and reporting, when do you sleep? Thanks for all the info.

     

    Bob

  10. Posted

    Nicolas, My issue was that i wanted to keep the speed at around 160-250 in order not to have to boost ISO. Now that i realise I can increase iso i will try with faster speeds. Saying that, we had a guy on the group with the 5D MK3 with the 17mmL and he was using F4.5 and 1/100 and he got good results... This is what frustrate me... Being a m43 setup I thought i will have greater DOF @F5.6 that he would have on a FF@F4.5.

     

    Bob,

    the issue with the whales is that you cant really get too close unless they let you... and when they do - they might suddenly be so close that they will will not fit in the frame even at 9mm. humpbacks are 12m long so there will be at least part of the shot that has more than 1 meter away...

    I will try and experiment with different apertures and iso next time i am in the water.

    I am now positive that my first lens was a lemon - looking at some test shots i took with it and with the replacement I clearly see a major difference in sharpness.

     

    would the Panasonic 8mm fisheye be supirior to the 9-18mm in terms of performance? Has anyone tried the Samyang 7.5mm? Will the fact the samyang is full manual be a major limiting factor here?

     

    Thanks,

    Erez

     

    Hi Erez,

     

    You are right of course about approching whales. What I was trying to point out is the sharpness of your image will always suffer from the subject to the lens distance in water. I don't have the 8 mm, but reviews tend to rate it above the 9-18. It is a 180 deg. FE vs. 100 deg. (@ 9 mm). You may or may not like the fish eye affect on your subjects.

     

    I don't know how your images are to be viewed (size of print, web, ....). You should get acceptable results post processing raw data at ISO 400, 800, ...?

     

    Bob

  13. Posted

    Thanks,

    I will download LR and give it a shot...

     

    No one seems to answer my question about F stops...

     

    Cheers,

    Erez

     

    I don’t own this lens, but here is a quote from dpreview:

     

    Central sharpness is generally very high, but the extreme corners are somewhat soft in comparison. Optimum results are generally obtained about a stop down from wide open - around F5.6 at 9mm, and F8 at 18mm. Diffraction starts to have a serious negative impact at F16, with F22 on the whole best avoided.

     

     

    Here’s my two cents:

    Water has a MAJOR diffusing impact on the image quality. Even in very clear water do not expect image sharpness beyond 1 meter. Darker water exposure tends to hide some of this in the background.

     

    “If your pictures aren’t good enough, you aren’t close enough.” – Robert Capa

     

    OK, I am spoofing you a little with the Capa quote.

     

    Bob

  14. Posted

    I have bought the 9-18mm lens and the Nauticam 4inch port for it as a long awaited upgrade.

    I have spent a month in Tonga and during that month shot hundreds of Whale and Freediving photos - all of them were not usable due to being super soft and not contrasty.

     

    Most were shot on F5.6 on base ISO @1/160 and above.

     

     

    What is the camera distance to subject in your examples?

     

    Bob

  15. Posted

    From 4/3rumors.com:

     

    -

    I got a short message from an anonymous sources saying “December 14th“. This should be the date Olympus may release the new OMD E-M5 firmware update. May some other source can confirm this?

    We have been told that the firmware should add several more options to the menu regarding EVF info and “one exciting feature that is sure to please users. icon_wink.gif “. My guess as you know is that Olympus will add peaking mode. Let’s see if I am right!

     

    Bob

  16. Posted

    Like Alex, I'm thinking about ordering a D&D 12-50 Oly zoom gear for the Nauti housing as well. My rationale is that while I'm predominantly a dedicated WA (Pan 8mm) or Macro shooter (oly 60mm), there may be times I'll be interested in trying the 12-50, and yet I'm not really intrigued enough to drop $800 on the complex Nauti port. I've watched the video that accompanies the assembly, and all the screws and complexity of it made me even less inclined to go that route. On the other hand, a digi dive 12-50 zoom gear, that would fit inside my 60 mm macro port, and let me shoot the 12-50, seems both economical while at the same time offering flexibility. Given that the 12-50 is fun to shoot topside, there wouldn't be as much hassle getting it in and out of a zoom port, and I actually like how fast it autofocuses. Plus I've seen some nice shots taken with it, and it could be fun to take down when you have absolutely no idea what you're gonna see. For others similarly interested, the price is 79 Euros at unterwasser kamera (no sales tax for shipping stateside), but 30 Euros for shipping. With current conversion rates, thats about 142 bucks. Not bad for being able to house that lens.....provided that it works.

     

    smile.png

     

    I believe Dr. Mustard is the guinea pig

     

    Bob

  19. Posted

    Hugh, I leave the right hand grip at home. I don't like the ergonomics with the right hand grip attached, instead i use the tray and left hand grip and i use the Nauticam M10 ball which screws into the housing -- it's very solid. The right arm attaches to the M10 ball, the left arm attaches to the left grip. The centre coldshoe can be used for a focus light. Perfect. I've not tried the right hand strap (yet), but it's probably a good idea as long as it doesn't constrain my hand from it's current ideal position :-)

     

    I am having trouble visualizing this set up. Will you please post a photo?

     

    Bob

  21. Posted

    As I indicated, the NEX-7 has the best EVIL resolution, but is not the best underwater camera IMO due mainly to the lack of lenses.

     

    Yeah, you gotta have the glass. The APS-C size sensors (e.g. NEX-n) will have APS-C size lens; the corresponding M4/3 are smaller and lighter. As noted, M4/3 has a large selection of lenses - NEX does not AND only has one lens that can resolve 24 MPs. The "Sweet 16" MPs will do all that I need.

     

     

    Bob

  24. Posted

    I have the software on my computer - but when I plug in the camera it does not come up. :-(

     

    My camera is stuck on Firmware 1.2 and I can't update it. V. annoying.

     

    Alex

     

    Bollocks! I when from 1.1 to 1.3 and then 1.5. Oly recalled 1.2. Unfortunately, you can not revert to 1.1. In dpreview mentioned that Oly offered an update from 1.2 to ..., but I can not find the link.

     

    Bob

  25. Posted

    Help! I can't update the firmware on my OM-D because it won't talk to my computer when connected via the USB. Anyone got a solution?

     

    Alex

     

    Ooo! I am working on my second cup and now I remember I did have a problem with the E-M5 communicating with the computer. It was a sequencing error. The problem is my memory or lack there of. I think starting the Oly program first and then plugging in the camera via USB may work.

     

    Bob

×
×
  • Create New...