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Everything posted by Deep6

  1. I though you had updated the camera's firmware to 1.5. I did on a Windows 7 box without any problems. I checked the the Olympus site and they do not have the latest version listed. http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_support_downloads.asp?id=1583&os=w 1.2 was a bomb. You want to go to 1.3 and then 1.5. 43rumors reports that there may be a new update in December. Did you install the Oly software on your machine? The Oly updater s/w may be required. Regards, Bob
  2. Totally my bad Dr. M. The Anthis JP site needs to be updated. Bob
  3. I don't thiink so. D7000 & D700 look like the latest models for Nikon. http://www.anthis.co.jp/ Bob
  4. The simplest & cheapest solution is a seamless, gradual diopter ground into a dive mask. Not need to make diopter adjustments on the camera or add on view finder. If you want the add on view finder, some allow diopter adjustments. Bob
  5. Right, 1/180 to 1/200 should do nicely. Clear, calm water is the best and 1/250 can give you a little wiggle room. Back in the old film days I got a few with the Nikonos at 1/90. Bob
  6. 1/200 sec. should be fast enough to "freeze" the action for most subjects including sun rays. Sometimes conditions require faster syncs to freeze the rays. I took this is cosideration for my choice of the next system, Oly E-M5 D (1/250 sec.) Bob
  7. OK, this is not for underwater use, but I thought some of you OM-D E-5 users might be interested. I added the side grip of HLD-6 battery holder to the camera. As mention, this gives a good handle. The tripod mount may be centered on the lens axis with this addition. Parallax test some time before spring may be! I have adapted the Olympus GS-4 grip strap to work with out the bottom battery holder. I used the RRS BP-CS plate from my D80. There is a small slot on the end for the bottom of the grip strap. Another bonus: I think the RRS D200 l-plate will be centered on axis for both landscape and portrait modes with the full battery holder installed. Regards, Bob
  8. Install the 60 mm with TC on your camera and see if will AF. It will manual focus. Nexus (Anthis) makes a housing for the D7000. There are AF or M control gears for the older 60 and 105 Nikkors using the multiport; may be for the AFS. Check with a Nexus dealer. I suggest you should simplfy. Learn one lens at a time. The 60 (w/o TC) is a good start. Regards, Bob P.S. Use the Kenko PRO 1.4 TC
  9. Naah, keep the faith dude. You can set you camera to "A" for aperture mode, auto ISO, single AF, and TTL with the strobes. You have a very sophisticated camera that you can put in the point and shoot mode. Read your manual, browse this site and others like bythom.com and grow with you camera experience (shoot, shoot, and shoot some more – top side and u/w). I am still using older Nikons (D200 & D80). They can do some killer work. Regards, Bob
  10. Very nice Dr. Alex and in Ferrari red too! Prego, Bob
  11. I have a DX system. For underwater, I think the Tok 10-17 w or w/o 1.4 in a mini dome (~4.33 ") is super. I don't use it much top side. I have the older Nikkor 60 & 105 macro lens, but perfer the 105 and use it in the M focus mode (I can switch to AF or M on the go underwater) . The 105 is a little too long on a DX underwater; you might consider the 85 macro if there is a port for it. I have the Siggy 17-70 "macro" and is OK for u/w (in flat port) and good for topside too. At 1:2 on DX ~= 1:1.33 life size. Not bad! I found the 105 a little too short for shooting a tiny Fer-de-Lance at close range Bob P.S. The choice of 60 vs 105 might depend on water clarity.
  12. Be sure to check out if these arms add a significant amount of buoyancy. I don't think they do. Bob
  13. Add this to your wish list. From 4/3rumors: Egami (Tranlsation here) spotted a new Olympus patent describing the design of three new wide angle lenses: 8-20mm f/2.8-4 8-35mm f/2.2-4 8-74mm f/2.8-4 From the description you will notice that this are actually Fisheye lenses! Right now only Canon (with the 8-15mm) and Tokina (10-17mm) have this kind of lenses on market. Is that something we need for the Micro Four Thirds system? Certainly not a priority lens but it’s always nice to expand the lens horizon. It would be on my priorty list! Bob
  14. Ooo, did I miss this from the intrepid John Bantin? http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1119969298/undercutheconsum Bob
  15. No, I don't think so. I haven't got my rig yet. I like the 12-50 a lot, but I will get the 60 for 1:1 or greater macro. Now take out that great rig of yours and makes us some pictures. Weidmannsheil! Bob
  16. I use to use the Nikkor 12-24 with a +4 diopter in a 170 mm port. I now use the Tonk 10-17 w & w/o 1.4x TC in a 4.33" dome (The Bare Dome). Much better IMHO. Bob
  17. Mr. Phil, Dr. Alex et OM-D owners, Have any of you upgraded to v 1.5 firmware? Comments and/or problems? Regards, Bob
  18. Me too Phil. We have some nice, fast primes and Panasonic is delivering the X series of f/2.8 zooms. There is a 4/3 2x teleconverter, but not likely worth it using a 4/3 to m4/3 converter to get it. Can we start an Oly OM-D fan boys & girls club? Regards, Bob
  19. FYI: Thom Hogan is wading in on DX this month. http://www.bythom.com/ Bob
  20. I am afraid Nikon has made its bed with the J1/V1 for a small mirrorless entry. When they release these cameras, I shifted my attention to the m4/3s. I am now working up some luv for my new Oly E-M5. I looks like no D300 replacement is comming. John, I guess I owe you a Fat Tire. Are you going to the Denver dive show? Bob
  21. Pick the card size to cover more than one day's shooting. I back up each card on a lap top, but no longer use mutiple drives. I save the card (locked) as a back up. A 4 gB card is more than enough for a day's shooting on my cameras. Bob
  22. Hey Don (you lucky dog), are you going to do a black water night dive. It is great. Bob
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