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Posts posted by Deep6

  1. Help! I can't update the firmware on my OM-D because it won't talk to my computer when connected via the USB. Anyone got a solution?




    I though you had updated the camera's firmware to 1.5. I did on a Windows 7 box without any problems. I checked the the Olympus site and they do not have the latest version listed. http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_support_downloads.asp?id=1583&os=w


    1.2 was a bomb. You want to go to 1.3 and then 1.5.


    43rumors reports that there may be a new update in December.


    Did you install the Oly software on your machine? The Oly updater s/w may be required.




  2. Hi there,

    my eyes start to show some signs of wear and tear making it difficult to see the cameras monitor sharp.

    I was thinking of getting a viewfinder but i realized that a external monitor may be a (expensive) solution,

    but will give me the handy solution that i can rotate the monitor in the right direction for a special angle of view.

    A external monitor wont solve the problem of suffering of presbyopia but the bigger screen will help to see the picture better

    and the orientable monitor would help greatly with macro or - inside a hole - pictures.


    Does anybody have experience with using a external monitor for taking pictures under water?




    The simplest & cheapest solution is a seamless, gradual diopter ground into a dive mask. Not need to make diopter adjustments on the camera or add on view finder. If you want the add on view finder, some allow diopter adjustments.


  3. I suppose that it should give you a bit more maneuverability for the color of the Background. Nowadyas, ISO gives you wiggle room there anyway...

    I assume that it could help a bit for freezing action. I can not really see that it makes a big difference between 200us & 250us.

    If I am correct most Canons have 200us as synch and they seem to take just fine Pics!


    Right, 1/180 to 1/200 should do nicely. Clear, calm water is the best and 1/250 can give you a little wiggle room. Back in the old film days I got a few with the Nikonos at 1/90.


  4. Could anybody maybe elaborate on this, and perhaps show some examples where it is needed faster than 1/200 and poor results may be given to anything slower?

    I realise a greater aperture is possible but could one not just raise the iso in this case to counteract the slower flash sync speed at the same aperture?





    1/200 sec. should be fast enough to "freeze" the action for most subjects including sun rays. Sometimes conditions require faster syncs to freeze the rays. I took this is cosideration for my choice of the next system, Oly E-M5 D (1/250 sec.)



  5. OK, this is not for underwater use, but I thought some of you OM-D E-5 users might be interested. I added the side grip of HLD-6 battery holder to the camera. As mention, this gives a good handle. The tripod mount may be centered on the lens axis with this addition. Parallax test some time before spring may be! I have adapted the Olympus GS-4 grip strap to work with out the bottom battery holder. I used the RRS BP-CS plate from my D80. There is a small slot on the end for the bottom of the grip strap. Another bonus: I think the RRS D200 l-plate will be centered on axis for both landscape and portrait modes with the full battery holder installed.




  6. thanks for the info on that, I had no idea. I was mainly getting the converter for the tokina 10-17 but thought it was supposed to work with the macro also. will it work with manual focus?


    Install the 60 mm with TC on your camera and see if will AF. It will manual focus. Nexus (Anthis) makes a housing for the D7000. There are AF or M control gears for the older 60 and 105 Nikkors using the multiport; may be for the AFS. Check with a Nexus dealer.


    I suggest you should simplfy. Learn one lens at a time. The 60 (w/o TC) is a good start.





    P.S. Use the Kenko PRO 1.4 TC

  7. thanks mark, that makes a lot of sense. I am feeling overwhelmed with this camera, it does and has so many features and the manual seems geared towards a more advanced shooter than me and I am having a hard time understanding it. I bought it with the intention of growing into the camera but now feel like I should have got the OM-D EM5 like I originally intended. I am seriously thinking about trading it for an OMD!


    Naah, keep the faith dude. You can set you camera to "A" for aperture mode, auto ISO, single AF, and TTL with the strobes. You have a very sophisticated camera that you can put in the point and shoot mode. Read your manual, browse this site and others like bythom.com and grow with you camera experience (shoot, shoot, and shoot some more – top side and u/w). I am still using older Nikons (D200 & D80). They can do some killer work.




  8. +1 for the Sigma 17-70, although I’d go Tokina +1.4x Kenko teleconverter and a minidome any day.


    I have a DX system. For underwater, I think the Tok 10-17 w or w/o 1.4 in a mini dome (~4.33 ") is super. I don't use it much top side. I have the older Nikkor 60 & 105 macro lens, but perfer the 105 and use it in the M focus mode (I can switch to AF or M on the go underwater) . The 105 is a little too long on a DX underwater; you might consider the 85 macro if there is a port for it. I have the Siggy 17-70 "macro" and is OK for u/w (in flat port) and good for topside too. At 1:2 on DX ~= 1:1.33 life size. Not bad!


    I found the 105 a little too short for shooting a tiny Fer-de-Lance at close range664.gif




    P.S. The choice of 60 vs 105 might depend on water clarity.

  9. Add this to your wish list. From 4/3rumors:


    Egami (Tranlsation here) spotted a new Olympus patent describing the design of three new wide angle lenses:

    8-20mm f/2.8-4

    8-35mm f/2.2-4

    8-74mm f/2.8-4

    From the description you will notice that this are actually Fisheye lenses! Right now only Canon (with the 8-15mm) and Tokina (10-17mm) have this kind of lenses on market. Is that something we need for the Micro Four Thirds system? Certainly not a priority lens but it’s always nice to expand the lens horizon.


    It would be on my priorty list!



  10. hmmm makes me question now if I made the right purchase getting the 60mm macro instead of the 12-50 lens and using its wide / macro function on the OMD body


    No, I don't think so. I haven't got my rig yet. I like the 12-50 a lot, but I will get the 60 for 1:1 or greater macro. Now take out that great rig of yours and makes us some pictures.




    • Like 2

  11. Hi Jack...could you explain the comment about the 12-24 please? Granted, it has other issues (sharp corners, etc) but It focuses to 1 foot and I would think with the shots that you showed (large animals) that is way more than enough? Am headed there in 2014....and am just curious....




    I use to use the Nikkor 12-24 with a +4 diopter in a 170 mm port. I now use the Tonk 10-17 w & w/o 1.4x TC in a 4.33" dome (The Bare Dome). Much better IMHO.


  12. I would love to see a tele converter in the 1.4 to 1.5 range for the 60 macro and the 8mm fisheye.



    Me too Phil. We have some nice, fast primes and Panasonic is delivering the X series of f/2.8 zooms. There is a 4/3 2x teleconverter, but not likely worth it using a 4/3 to m4/3 converter to get it.


    Can we start an Oly OM-D fan boys & girls club? smile.png




  13. The problem is that nobody still really knows, particularly for those of us that shoot Nikon or Canon. My ideal scene would be to be able to settle down for the next few years with a D800 rig, and a DX rig like a D400. Hate the idea of having a second brand for a smaller rig.


    I am afraid Nikon has made its bed with the J1/V1 for a small mirrorless entry. When they release these cameras, I shifted my attention to the m4/3s. I am now working up some luv for my new Oly E-M5.


    I looks like no D300 replacement is comming. John, I guess I owe you a Fat Tire. Are you going to the Denver dive show?



  14. Just wondering how others approach their image storage? On a trip it would seem to be a good idea to use several 4g SC cards rather than keep all you images on one 16 or 32. Sort of like not keeping all your eggs in one basket. If you do suffer a flood or loose your gear its nice to know that the whole trip hasn't gone as well. Thoughts?


    Pick the card size to cover more than one day's shooting. I back up each card on a lap top, but no longer use mutiple drives. I save the card (locked) as a back up. A 4 gB card is more than enough for a day's shooting on my cameras.



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