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Everything posted by chilipino

  1. Not the best but one of the hardest shots I had to take (snoot + remote slave trigger + no strobe focus light + surge = need buddy to be the lighting engineer!)
  2. Yes sir. Feel free to email me at mike.jimenez<at>gmail.com (<at> = @) if interested. Cheers. .mike
  3. Hi Bent, Nice shots! Just to be clear, you were shooting the Canon EFS 60mm behind the Zen 100mm (mini) dome with no extension ring? Did you need to use the 13mm extension ring (recommended by Subal) when you used the Tokina 10-17? The reason I ask is that I'm assembling the exact same setup (7D + Subal CD7 + Zen 100mm). Cheers! .mike
  4. I believe it is type 2 as the dome that I have is a DP-FE2. If the lack of ports are a huge hindrance, I can be convinced to part with my DP-FE2 and long flat port (for the 100mm macro). EDIT: Backscatter has told me that the DP-FE2 is a Type 3 port so the C20 is a Type 3 bayonet. .mike
  5. I'm upgrading and looking to see if anyone wants a good entry-level (price-wise) dSLR system. Items in the bundle: Canon 20D camera 2 Sandisk Extreme III 2GB cards 3 Canon 20D batteries 1 Canon 20D battery charger 1 Canon neck strap 1 Subal C20 housing (no ports, standard viewfinder) Looking for fair value offers. PM if interested. Cheers. .mike
  6. Hi all, I've got a brand new Olympus XZ-1 and Olympus PT-050 up for sale. I hear it's a great setup for someone who's just getting into UW photography. They're new in box and never been used. The setup can be yours for only $620 + shipping (currently $720 for both at BHPhoto... you save $100!). Send me a PM if interested. Cheers. .mike
  7. Drew, Thanks for the tip on the hanasake. I've got to try that I'll be diving with reefencounters.org who employ English-speaking DMs. They were able to craft a custom itinerary for me based on my fly in/out dates so I hope *crosses fingers* it's a more intimate diving scenario. Thanks again for the tips. .mike
  8. I'll be doing a 10-day dive tour of Okinawa and Yonaguni in a week. Any tips/hints for those who have been there before? .mike
  9. This was the first crevice kelpfish that I've seen that was actually in a crevice. This shot was taken in Carmel, California. .mike
  10. I know this is a long shot but... if anyone has a spare Subal C20 camera tray (the piece that screws into the tripod mount of the Canon 20D body) give me a shout. I lost mine as it was attached to the camera when it was stolen. .mike
  11. Not the best, but by far my favorite since this was my first time in the water with playful harbor seals. It was pretty much kissing my dome port.
  12. yep. i flooded my rig in the philippines and DEPP took care of it (though my experience was that they took longer than expected). .mike
  13. I agree. You need to make sure you live to do more dives so that you can take more pictures. The ocean isn't Disneyland, unfortunately. If it wants, it can have you in all sorts of ways. Let's not give it any help .mike
  14. I've got the Canon 10-22 and will be shooting it with the DP FE2 + EXR50 tomorrow in a C20 housing. This will be my first time with the setup and I will use the recommended +2 diopter. I'll let you know how it turns out (warning: this will be my first time shooting WA with the rig so pictures may not be all that good). I hope to get some diver shots and jelly shots (I heard reports of alot of eggyolks in Carmel). .mike
  15. Here's my typical routine for local diving (drive to site, dive twice, come back home): Immediately after diving: - rinse rig under running water shortly after getting back to shore (if there's a shower, I rinse my drysuit while it's on me). At home: - dunk rig in tub of fresh water, play with all buttons, and let it sit between 1 hour (must dive next day) or 24 hours (lazy/tired). - dismantle rig entirely - place ULCS hardware in tub of warm water (until you need to reassemble rig) - clean and re-grease ALL o-rings (housing, port, strobes, modeling light, synch cords) - clean outside of port with mild soapy water - clean inside of port with lint-free wipes and a very small amount of de-fogging solution And, when you need to dive, put it all back together the day before the dive (dunk test, strobe test, camera test, etc.).
  16. I use a Fantasea 44 LED light as a modeling light. I dive in Monterey and Carmel and have no issues autofocusing with my 20D and 100 mm macro lens during day and night dives. It costs ~130 USD and burns for 8 hours. No real complaints here.
  17. Basically, the nitrogen you've loaded into your system from the first dive can be pressurized into solution when you free dive during the surface interval. During your free dive bottom time, that nitrogen is traveling through your system. When you finally ascend from the free dive, the nitrogen can come out of solution somewhere in your body that is "not good". This is also the reason why "bounce" diving (fetch a buddy's lost mask, etc.) shortly after doing a dive is a bad thing. I did a quick search and found this thread on deeperblue.net: Freediving after SCUBA diving .mike
  18. I too like the pic with the model the best. On a side note, wouldn't freediving after a dive have potentially bad side-effects due to pressure changes while off-gasing?
  19. Doesn't sound like anything I've encountered. The only "freeze" I encountered was due to the fact that I switched lenses while the power switch was "on" (it was in sleep mode). The camera froze after I tried to review the first shot I took. The small LCD showed "Error -99" or something of the like. It was fixed during the surface interval by powering the camera off, removing the lens (not sure if this was necessary), replacing the lens, and powering the camera back on. Do you have the latest firmware installed?
  20. Herb, that's one kick *ss shot!
  21. Here's another of a Hermissenda Crassicornis. I wanted to blurr the rhinophores for a more extreme close-up feel. I'm not sure if that's the exact effect I got, however.
  22. WOW. Very nice work. The brightness looks OK overall. Maybe the top row middle and right photos may be a little dark. Great stuff.
  23. This one isn't nearly extreme as your moray shot (which is AWESOME, IMO), but here's one of a little (~1.5" long) corraline sculpin bookended by red algae in the front and an orange bat star in the rear.
  24. Does this port support the 100mm USM? -> Subal FP-FC105/3 I personally haven't had any issues using AF with the 100 mm. However, I'm just starting out so I may very well get into a situation in the future when I wish I had MF capability. I tried using the "*" lever for focusing but resorted back to the "half-shutter-trigger" technique to eliminate "brain lag". This past Saturday (NCUPS beach photo competition), I shot using the center focus point and AI Servo. I was able to come up with this photo (1st in novice digital macro. No post-processing allowed per competition rules. Resized for web viewing.): .mike
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