Jump to content

fongwee

Member
  • Content Count

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About fongwee

  • Rank
    Clownfish
  1. Thanks for the recommendations. Anymore??
  2. Hi, I might be going to Anilao and Puerto Galera. Can anyone recommend some dive sites in these 2 areas that I must visit? Thanks.
  3. Hi bevied, Only saw your post today. Don't really know how well the DS50 works with C5050Z. Thanks for organising the dive. I can only say that the DS125 works well from my limited time on Friday. The only problem is the estimation of the settings. 1st shoot is always off. I think need more practice.
  4. From what I understand, the 12-24 needs the ike part no #5509.12 to operate the zoom. Yours is probably the wrong one.
  5. Thank you all for the advice. I am still waiting for my chance to go. Can't wait anymore but got a major exams coming up. Sigh. Can only take a short dip in the murky waters of Singapore next week.
  6. I have been advised to buy it with the manual controller rather than the TTL slave sensor for the reason of more control of light output from the strobe. The manual controller provide 10 levels of light output. I would try it next friday. See you then too. As for the pre-flash, I understand that it can be set to be on or off depending on how you set your camera. For C5050Z, you can actually force the camera to fire 1 flash only by shooting in manual mode with slave function. This would provide the flash needed to fire the strobe. However for this to work, the ike slave sensor also has to be turned to pre-flash off. If you shoot in auto or manual but not in slave mode, you would have to turn the switch on ike slave sensor to pre-flash on. This would force the strobe to fire twice imitating the pre-flash of the camera. I would try to shoot in pre-flash off in manual mode. The reason is to cut off backscatter by putting the internal flash to the minimum number needed to trigger the strobe. The setting ranges from 1-10. Also by using this method, you can shoot in S-macro mode since the internal flash can be fired only in slave mode. Last of all, it saves battery on the camera. Hope this answer your question.
  7. Hi frogfish, How many dives would you recommend doing on the wreck as well as the drop-off? I read that there are a number of dive sites like coral garden and shark point. Are they worth diving and can they be done on the same dive if I start at the drop-off? Last of all, do you have any web contact for Paradise or can PM me the ballpark price of accomodation there? Any dive operators with Paradise and their charges? Thanks
  8. Thanks for the info on the ikelite housing. Actually I was wondering whether the pics taken on an ikelite housing vs the PT-015 with the WAL is any different. I would suppose they are the same unless the port used by the 2 companies differ by a lot in quality. Other than the dome port, how does the quality differs? Personally I feel that the dome port is too expensive.
  9. Hi David, Am using it PT-015. How does it compare with the ikelite housing? Please let me know the reply. Thanks Wee Kim
  10. Sounds good. Would like to see the pics. Thanks a lot for the experiment
  11. Has anyone use the Sea and Sea WAL 0.56X with 67mm thread with the C5050Z? I am considering of buying it. Any vignetting? How does it compare to the Inon WAL UWL-100 Thanks for any feedback
  12. What makes you so sure? I have a DS-125 and I will exchange the NiCd with NiMH when they are exhausted. I can't see any problem with this, the battery pack can be opened easily, standard sized cells are used. You may need a different charger, that't right. I charge my DS-125 with my Hartenberger "Offshore II" anyway... Please keep me updated once you have done it. Thanks
  13. My rationale for doing that is that the original battery pack is quite expensive. For the same or less amount of money, I could probably get NiMH with higher capacity to replace it once it is exhausted. In addition, when you compare 150 flashes to a possible 300-400 flashes of Inon strobes, it is really a lot of difference. Of course, the guide numbers for Inon are lower. I usually do 4-5 dives a day. Thus I was thinking of changing and charging the battery in the night. This saves me the rush when I change battery pack. In addition, every time I open it, there is a possible chance of not doing it properly resulting in a flood. Of course, carrying less battery packs is good. I would take it apart and replace it with a NiMH to try once the pack is dead
  14. Hi all, I wonder anyone using the DS-125 has changed the battery. The battery pack is a NiCd one. Has anyone tried making a battery pack made of higher capacity NiMH? Surely this would increase the number of charges. Wondering whether it would burn the flash tube? Of course, the next question is whether the smart charger can charge the NiMH pack.
  15. I use the backplate system. Personally I prefer back-inflation BCD because I don't like the squeeze from jacket style BCD. The advice above are good. One thing you have to consider about the backplate system is the weight of the plate. It can be tiring moving it around on land and of course adds on to excess baggage. This is especially true when you use a stainless steel one. DiveRite Transpac II is also good if you don't want a backplate system and it is lighter. My advice is to go for a modular design. In that way, it would be cheaper to change the wings alone than buying another BCD if it is punctured accidentally.
×
×
  • Create New...