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About eskasi

  • Rank
    Sting Ray
  • Birthday 11/01/1972

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  • Interests
    Photography, diving, Formula 1

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D300, Sea & Sea 1G
  • Camera Housing
    Sea & Sea MDX-D300, Sea & Sea DX-1G
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea YS-110a
  • Accessories
    Stix Arms, Fisheye HG20DX Focus Light, S&S TTL Converter, Optical Dome port, Athena 105VR port, Inon UCL165, Sigma 18-50 F2.8 EX Macro HSM, Nikkor 105VR F2.8 Micro, Nikkor 60mm F2.8 Micro, Tokina 10-17mm, DX-1G WA Lens
  1. Hi, is this item still available? May I ask why you are selling it and if it is still under warranty? I am interested if the item is in almost new condition and working properly. Shipping will be to Perth and payment can be via PayPal. Regards KB
  2. Removed mine after some difficulty. That will teach me to loosen the threads next time when storing!
  3. If I am not mistaken, using electrical cables means faster recycling time for strobes. Mainly because the pop up flash that is required for optical cables does not recycle as fast as the strobes... the Sea & Sea YS-110a and the Z240's recycle within about a second.... I think it takes much longer for the pop up flash to be ready again. When shooting sharks or anything moving fast, I would much rather go with something that will give me a 2nd chance at a shot a second later...
  4. Thanks for those links and the info bro! Very useful. Good luck... I am following your progress on twitter
  5. I actually asked the operators if their cage allowed for DSLRs with dome ports. It depends on the operation you go with I think. Some cages won't be able to accomodate even a small dome port... Not only did I not want to shoot with the cage visible, I also did not want to be in a cage with 4-5 other people. I chose Apex Predators (Cape Town) out of False Bay. They have a 3 man cage but only take 2 at a time. This means much better angle opportunities. Going during peak season at False Bay also means being able to watch and hopefully shoot the sharks breach and attack seals (or the artificial seal/board) at dawn. Its where "Air JAws" was filmed. I was told that I can easily use a DSLR with a dome port... but using strobes would get tricky... I will probably still try using strobes on short arms if possible... I want to light those bellies!
  6. Go for it... buy good glass... bodies come and go...
  7. Thanks for the tip MArk... very useful info for a someone on their first time. Didn't consider sharks emerging from the baitball with their mouths wide open... *duh*... silly me. You are indeed right... many factors to consider. Had a friend dive Protea Banks last week. No sardines yet as they were all still too far out. Water apparently still too warm. Someone else on the Scubaboard forums also seemed to confirm this. May indicate a slightly later than usual run (for divers)... Waiting on some other first hand news today and tomorrow... Cheers, KB
  8. I am definitely going to take the Tokina and shoot it at probably 13-17... having used the Tokina on a D300 (cropped sensor) with a 1.4 TC almost 90% on a trip to the Maldives last month, I think I may be using that combination a lot too during the run. Basically, its shoot scenes with whole baitballs using the Tokina and then hunting for individual shark and dolphin shots with the TC attached. The 10mm is simply too wide for the kind of shots I want to take. Mark, this will be my first run. What are my chances of getting within touching distance of these sharks if and when the action is on? I am hoping to get more individual shark shots than complete WA scenes.... An example from my trip last month in the Maldives... a 2m Grey Reef that came almost within touching distance before turning away. Shot with a Cop sensor D300 and Tokina 10-17 with 1.4x TC Do you have any page suggestions for people who want to follow how the run is doing this year? I have only found this Sardine Run report from an fisherman who updates his information regularly; http://raymonddebruyn.myblogger.co.za/about/
  9. Thanks Pete, I will give it a go.... didn't know what diopter to get and don't have any to test. I also fooled around with the 10-17 and a 1.4TC. Added elastic bands and managed to use another focus gear for it. It seems to give a similar FOV to that of my 11-16 at it's widest but of course with some barrel distortion from being a fisheye.... That may be a good solution for me I think... will try that combination in Maldives next week but will also try find a +2 diopter for my 11-16. Thanks for the tip Pete!
  10. Hmmm... yes... I am planning to go with Apex Predators... Chris Fallows is the operator I believe. I thought it would be better to go with them as their cage is a 3 man cage that takes 2 at a go... much better I thought for photographers than to have 4 people at a time in many other operations... I hope the water is clearer then
  11. Here you go, more examples of what this lens does.... http://www.inon.jp/photogallery/ufl_mr130_efs60/index.html
  12. Look here.... its got some photo examples that describe the difference... I would love to have one but the cost is close to ridiculous the last I checked... and now with the additional cost of an "adaptor" for most brand housings?? Sheesh... http://www.inon.jp/products/port-gear/EFS60.html Adaptor http://www.divephotoguide.com/underwater-p...cro-relay-lens/
  13. Thanks for that Phil! I did some research on that lens though... the Canon 10-22 is an ultrawide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) and not a fisheye? The Tokina may give much wider shots... having said that... I wonder what the Tokina Fisheye at 17mm is like compared to the 10-22 at 10mm... In this case, the Canon is actually more like the Tokina 11-16mm ultrawide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel). I have not taken this lens UW yet and must do some research here about diopters and port extensions for my Sea & Sea optical dome... not sure if its even recommended.... You have some spectacular shots there Phil. How successful was your run? Did you get out each day and for how many days? I love some of the closeups you got and assume the sharks were almost touching your dome? I guess you will have to have a really good trigger finger to get good breaching shots and reflexes of a cat.... I gave myself a few additional days to do this... will probably go out 3 times at False bay over two days.... may even do more if the breaching sharks infuriate me with poor shots...
  14. Thanks for the reply Matti. Awesome shots of the sardine run! That was some cool whale action you saw! What lens were you using for the topside breaching whales? I am not familiar with Canon lenses. is the 10-22 just an ultrawide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel)? I assume so and that the Nikon equivalent would be the 12-24 DX lens. (I am using a crop sensor Nikon D300). Unfortunately, I don't have a 12-24. The lenses I have in my bag are the Tokina 10-17 Fisheye, Sigma 18-50 F2.8 HSM Macro and the Tokina 11-16 F2.8 ultrawide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) (for which I have no diopter yet or zoom gear.... but have enough time to purchase one) I have not heard of too many people using the 11-16 wide UW. If there is anyone out there that uses it, what diopter do I need to get? I have both size extension rings for my sea and sea housing and optical dome port so that shouldn't be a problem. From your shots, I think the 10-17 fisheye would work for many of the Sardine run shots.... I may take down the 18-50 on some dives to get tighter shots (at 18).... Is it worthwhile prepping my 11-16 wide for UW use? If I am not mistaken, some have said its a little soft at the corners? (I confess to not having done a forum search about this lens before typing this up and will do so after this). Also, for the GW cage dive, I would probably be happier with the 18-50 or the 11-16 ultrawide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) (instead of the fisheye I think). I would much rather have a tighter crop on the GW than a lot of blue... the Tokina fisheye seems far too wide and I don't want shots of the cage..... If there is anyone who would suggest something different, do tell! My camera bag is gonna get pretty heavy! Looking at using a 70-200 VR (and maybe TC) for breaching Great White shots (like in Air Jaws) and taking the 24mm TS/E for landscapes.....
  15. So, I decided to go nuts... I will be leaving for the Maldives on the Ocean Geographic expedition next week but already I am booking another trip for July Thanks to everyone who gave me advice for the Maldives trip! I am now planning to do the Sardine Run and a few cage dives for great whites including a breaching trip to see them blast out of the water at False bay I have a few questions about lens choice though.... For the Sardine Run, I assume the right lens for my D300 would be the Tokina 10-17? However, my only other (non-macro) lens I have is the Sigma 18-50mm HSM macro for which I have a zoom gear also. Should I consider using this lens during the sardine run as well? am I wrong in thinking that the Tokina is the right lens? I want to be able to take it all in but I wonder how close I will actually get to the action ... would be nice to get closer shots of predators in action. Would be great to hear from those with experience. The same question for the Cage diving experience... I think the 18-50 is probably the best bet? Should I even consider the Tokina at all or will the shark end up looking far too tiny? If both are suitable, I was thinking of perhaps going in with the Sigma first then swapping out to the Tokina during a rotation if the sharks are coming real close.... or would I be wasting my time? Perhaps its a silly question but I have not done any WA work in almost a year.... I'd rather not waste a dive with the wrong lens! I guess Maldives next week would be a good refresher for me but I feel safer to ask the pros here too! Thanks to all who can provide some insight and some advice too! I love this forum. Cheers!
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