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Posts posted by woody

  1. The strobe, the arm, the Tokina zoom ring and the Sigma 10-20 lens are SOLD


    Everything else reduced as follows:

    Aquatica 8" dome port (acrylic) plus shade plus neoprene cover. Signs of wear and some scuffs but perfectly OK - $390

    Aquatica macro port (glass) plus neoprene cover - almost new - $320

    Sigma 10-20 18678 gear - $45

    Sigma 10-20 48770 gear - $60

    Aquatica 48456 extension ring - $125

    Sea&Sea TTL III Converter for Nikon (works perfectly) - $120

    5 pin Sea & Sea sync cord - signs of use but works perfectly - $60

    Tokina 10-17 fisheye zoom - good external condition and perfect optics - $300

  2. Hi all,

    I am in the process of restarting u/w photography while moving to a brand new mirrorless system, and I have some surplus kit for sale, listed below.


    The prices shown are for one-off items, basically the more you buy the more I can discount, that said I think the starting prices are OK.


    If you want more photos of a specific item, just PM me


    Prices DO NOT INCLUDE shipping from Malta, Europe. Once I know what items are being sold together and to which country, I will be able to quote shipping costs also.


    So here goes:


    Aquatica 8" dome port (acrylic) plus shade plus neoprene cover. Signs of wear and some scuffs but perfectly OK - $425



    Aquatica macro port (glass) plus neoprene cover - almost new - $350



    TLC arm set as shown (including fitting for Sea & Sea strobe) - $120



    Tokina 10-17 48717 gear - $60



    Sigma 10-20 18678 gear - $60



    Sigma 10-20 48770 gear - $80

    (I really don't know why I have 2 gears for the Sigma 10-20 - both fit the lens though!)



    Aquatica 48456 extension ring - $150



    Sea&Sea TTL II Converter for Nikon (works perfectly) - $150



    Sea&Sea YS-90 DX strobe - signs of use but works perfectly - $150



    5 pin Sea & Sea sync cord - signs of use but works perfectly - $75



    I also have the following lenses:

    Tokina 10-17 fisheye zoom - good external condition and perfect optics - $350



    Sigma 10-20 rectilinear zoom - good external condition and perfect optics - $300



    Lastly, I have an Aquatica D70 housing that can go for whatever I get for it. Photos on request.

  3. Hi,

    I currently have a S&S YS-90DX strobe on a Nikon D70/Aquatica and have recently started shooting macro. Prior to this I shot purely wide angle with manual strobe control. I may at some point in the future purchase a YS-250PRO strobe.

    I have decided to purchase a Sea&Sea iTTL converter HOWEVER....while I am aware what the Sea&Sea website says, does anyone know from experience:

    1. Is the MkIII converter campatible with the YS-250PRO?

    2. Conversely, is the 250 converter compatible with the YS-90DX?

    3. Finally, how possible is it to use any of the converters with BOTH these strobes together? (and would I want to?)


    Many thanks!

  4. Hi,


    I have recently upgraded my Aquatica housing to the stiffer spring set, and according to Aquatica the housing should now be good for 130m at least.


    I have a friend who has a Ikelite housing and I was wondering whether the quoted 60m depth rating for Ikelite housings is a result of the actual housing construction/strength, or otherwise because of a limitation on the strength of the springs (weaker springs will result in buttons remaining "pressed" at depth). If the latter, do Ikelite supply the required replacement springs?



  5. Lambis,


    I have both lenses. I only got the Tokina recently but I did use it in a pool once (actually this is the only time I have used it) and some photos are here Pool shots (ignore the "family" snapshots :) )


    However I also found that with the 10-20, objects on the periphery tend to become distorted, though of course not as much as the Tokina. I also shot a couple of pool shots with the 10-20 here More Pool Shots. Note the guy's head in the second shot.....but could this a result of something other than the lens alone - maybe the housing's optics? Dunno...I'm no expert!

  6. I've been struggling with how best to "process" deep wreck photos for a while now. Do I leave in a state that is closer to the "default" camera output, do I aggressively manupulate the RAW file to improve the colours, or given the practically monochrome environment that exists at that depth, do I go the whole hog and convert to B&W?


    Here is one photo I took this summer at around 65m of the main cannon of the HMS Southwold, a WWII destroyer sunk in 1942 off the south coast of Malta.


    Any tips would be really appreciated - both regarding the processing options and also regarding the photo itself.


    (If you notice, in the two "processed" files I have cloned out the diver who unfortunately cropped up between the two barrels of the cannon)



    "Raw" unprocessed image



    "Aggressive" manipulation - including white balance in Adobe Raw and additional saturation and colour balance changes in Photoshop



    Converted to B&W in Photoshop (using the ConvertToB&W 3.0 tool)

  7. I recently bought a 10-17 for my D70 and the only opportunity to use it so far was in a pool with kids playing around. Great fun!!!


    Hopefully I'll use it on some wreck dives soon...but until then















  8. Thanks Jean. Maybe you can PM me with the cost of the replacement springs?


    Will the stronger springs make the buttons a lot more difficult to press when at shallow depth? In spite of my brag, not all my dives are at 70+ metres :)

  9. Hi,


    This summer I am doing more and more deep dives, down to 70m so far but hping for a really deep wreck dive (100m+) by the end of summer. I use an Aquatica D70 housing and a Sea & Sea YS-90DX strobe. I'm also thinking of adding another strobe - maybe the new YS-250.


    While I think the Aquatica is rated to 90m (or is it 100?) the strobe is only rated to 60m. I have taken both down to 70m so far, and I was wondering if anyone has any experience of problems with deeper depths than that, especially for the strobe.


    Any comments would be really welcome!





  10. Speak to Blake. I've just ordered a zoom gear for my 10-20 in my Aquatica D70 housing, so although not on their list of standard kit, he very kindly obliged.


    According to Jean you will also need the 18456 port extension (same as for the 12-24)


    I shot the attached a couple of days ago with the 10-20. All shot at 10mm as I have not received the zoom gear yet. Sharpness looks fine to me - but any more expert comments would be most gratefully received.



  11. I have a D70 and just purchased a second hand Aquatica housing for it. I've connected the camera / housing to a Sea&Sea YS-90DX strobe that I've had for a while, using a cable that I've used successfully before with my old Coolpix 5000 housing (also Aquatica).


    I've got a problem in that the camera is giving an error (flash sign blinking on the LCD display) which according to the camera manual means that a "speedlight that does not support i-TTL is attached and set to TTL". When I try to take a shot, nothing works. When I switch off the strobe, the display stops flashing and the camera works normally. The camera is on Manual. I've set the strobe to TTL and Manual and the camera flash control to iTTL and Manual, and still nothing works.


    The strobe still works well connected to my old Coolpix 5000 through the same bulkhead connector (i.e. the one in the D70 housing)


    My suspicion is that the problem lies in the way the bulkhead is wired (it is a single bulkhead by the way)


    Any tips?



  12. Hi,


    I'm just expecting delivery of my new (used) Aquatica D70 housing. Can't wait!!!!


    Can anyone tell me what port/shade/focus gear/zoom gear/diopter combinations (zoom gear where applicable of course) are needed for the Aquatica D70 housing for the following lenses:


    1. Sigma 10-20mm

    2. Tokina 12-24mm

    3. Sigma 15mm FE


    These are not covered in Aquatica's lens port chart



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