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Everything posted by Rattus

  1. Hi Guys, Looking at that Scubacam version, it looks to me like you'll end up with a small viewfinder image, possibly with some corner clipping. I don't know this for sure, but it would be my educated guess, looking at the way it is rigged. The image has to go through the 0.66x or 0.8x pickup first, then the Inon finder. The Inon finder was clearly designed to get close enough to the camera viewfinder to avoid any pickup optics. Maybe it works OK, but I'd caution anyone to try it first. Martyn
  2. That looks like the best bet, especially if the flange is a little too wide to fit between the two ridges on the housing, you could then file two flats onto the flange which will lock it on place once the bolt is tight, so that whatever you hang off it can't start to loosen the fitting. That would be my concern with any fitting where the ball is threaded and just screws into the housing - that's how the TLC part appears to work, maybe the photo is deceptive. BTW, I'd check the thread before attaching anything tightly. If it's not the right pitch, and some of the metrics seem compatible with some imperials and vice versa, the aluminium will start to tear out. Of course you can bet it'll fail at the least favourable possible time too. Martyn
  3. What is the spacing between the centres of those two holes, and are they both M6 thread? I'd be looking at either: a ) installing a ULCS BH-HB (aka AD-MOD) with two flats cuts into the base flange to stop it rotating in that slot, and a M6 bolt through it into one of those tapped holes. or b ) install a slightly modified BA-AQN or BA-AQW. Obviously the base flange will need to be able to take two bolts, much closer together than the pairs used on the tops of the handles. This is the sort of thing that drove me to buying a milling machine. If you need anything making up, give us a yell. I'm in UK so not too far from France, postally speaking. Aquatica put this mounting point on most of their housings, I assume they have some plan for using it to attach stuff. It'll be interesting to see what they say. EDIT: I had a a quick look at the TLC shoes available from Cameras Underwater, and it looks like the 17551 or 17552 might be what is supposed to go in that position. You could then add a ULCS BA-DT or BA-AD to the dovetail that provides. Make sense? Looking at pictures of James Wiseman's old Aquatica Kodak housing, that's what seems to be mounted on the top of the housing... http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/aquatica-ko...housing-review/ Martyn
  4. Hi Si, I'll be interested to hear how you get on. The strobe does tend to give great results for tiny macro stuff. Mark Webster loves his. BTW I also tested it with the Sea&Sea TTL Converter for canon and it worked nicely, though you'd need to watch out on a Nexus housing due to the +ve ground issue on the converter. A couple of questions: Is it possible to change the bulb on the focus light? I couldn't see a way to do it, but then I only had a short while to play with it at Ocean Optics and their focus light bulb was blown. Any idea yet what the buoyancy is like on it? My rig is already annoyingly -ve in macro trim to the extent that I'm looking at compensation options. Cheers, Martyn
  5. Uh huh, just what I was thinking. Much as I like their products, their announced to available times on their strobes are about a whole year at the moment. Hey ho. Martyn
  6. Hoorah! I'm glad you got the system dialled in a a bit better. I'm still puzzled as to what was going wrong. I mean although P is not a great mode to shoot this type of shot with, it picked very similar values to your manual settings. As mreid says, keep testing the TTL until you are happy that you understand where its limitations are and how to avoid them. Obviously TTL has a range of adjustment in which it can work. Outside of this range, which depends upon the ISO, Av, Tv, subject distance and reflectivity/shape, you may get either too little or too much lighting. Good shooting, Martyn
  7. And indeed if that doesn't make sense - it's not the clearest diagram ever - the metal edge of the hotshoe is ground, but you need to pick it up on the inside of the shoe, since the outside is painted black, and the large round contact in the middle is the x-sync. The other 4 contacts are for E-TTL, don't connect those to anything. The camera will short the x-sync to ground when it fires. It can stand up to 250v across these terminals, so your father must bear that in mind when designing the little flash thingy. It's a cute idea, but surely after spending many thousands on your rig, buying a few spare sync chords would be a better fall back than this? Sounds prone to backscatter and poor slave pickup. YMMV. Martyn
  8. Hi Nicholas, Are you setting the mode switch on the strobe to TTL? If not, you're not firing on TTL at all. You'll be dumping the full load on the preflash, then a tiny pop in response the main flash trigger. That would explain the dark dog etc. set the mode to TTL on the strobe set the TTL adapter to "0" compensation set 5D to 100 ISO - adapter can have serious trouble with high ISO close ups, due to tiny durations. try the 5D on manual and dial in an exposure of a couple of stops under for ambient. e.g. 1/100s at f/16 indoors. See how that goes. Martyn
  9. May be worth looking out the OpTech Hood Hat range. They go up to 5.75", which might fit a 6" port, especially after a bit of knifing up! http://www.optech-online.co.uk/lst94.htm Other than that, imagine if one were to search for "Neoprene Sheet" on ebay, what might one find. Martyn
  10. Hi Paul, I got mine from Snapperstuff.com, which is the UK distributer, Helen Atkinson. She also supplies them to Jacobs Photo & Video (74 New Oxford Street, London, WC1A 1EU). If I were you I'd ring Jacobs and find out if they have them in stock or just oreder one up on Helen's site if oyu have a convenient delivery address in London. She got mine to me the day after it was ordered IIRC. Enjoy, it's one hell of a good design. Martyn
  11. Sam, if you have a multimeter it would be interesting to see if there are any potential differences (voltages) between the various parts of your rig when it's all set up and powered up. e.g. between the housing metal and the nikonos plug body, and between the plug and the TTL battery compartment. Cheers, Martyn
  12. I just got my ThinkTankPhoto Airport International roller and I have to say it's as close to perfect as I can imagine right now. My housing will fit upright, saving huge amounts of space. I can even put my Vaio in the main compartment once the lower height dividers ship. The whole bag, including wheels and handles fits into the UK restrictions. Hurrah!! Martyn
  13. Hi Marc, There's not much customisation to speak of, I just plugged the Inon Z-22 Quadflash into my Sea&Sea TTL Converter and gave it a fairly brief test at Ocean Optics in London. The TTL performance seemed fine. Subjects within a reasonable macro range came out well exposed independant of the camera settings. It's worth noting that the practical underwater range of a ring flash is very limited due to the propensity to cause hideous backscatter at short distances than standard guns. I was coincidentally at Ocean Optics to listen to a talk by Mark Webster, who uses the Quadflash for almost 100% of his macro shots. It gives a superb quality of light for small underwater subjects, making them appear to almost glow from inside. As I mentioned above though, the tricky thing will be housing the lens. The Quadflash does not leave much room for lens ports, which means in general that a custom port will be needed. I haven't pushed ahead with it because at the moment I'm more interested in wide angle. Martyn
  14. Hi Rachid, The Woody is the same as the Nexus. If you can't source that in Germany, you could try Ocean Optics in the UK. http://www.oceanoptics.co.uk/nexuswet.htm Martyn
  15. The 20D and a Tokina 10-17mm fisheye zoom should make a great pairing. I went from D60 to 5D (toyed with fitting 20D into D60 housing) largely so I could get full diagonal 180 degree fisheye. With the Tokina that's available (give or take) with the 20D. The 5D does have a better sensor and a larger screen, but at the end of the day it does come down to what your aim and expectations are. I was already using a the 5D topside for months before S&S released the housing and I jumped at the chance. While many have no problem with operating the entry levels Canons, I would always council against "single dial" bodies, because I found moving to dual dial to be one of the most ergonomically liberating steps I ever took. This is where you have two command dials/wheels, one for aperture, the other for shutter speed, or compensation depending upon mode. 20D, 5D have this, the rebels do not. Martyn
  16. Aah, that'll be a housed Canon MR-14EX. Should be able to do full TTL on Canons with a 6 pin bulkhead. Did I mention I got the Inon quadflash working in TTL on my 5D? Pretty sweet, but aperture too narrow for many good macro lenses. Martyn
  17. OK, so is the housing still sealed when the user dismounts the viewfinder for travel? That was the feature I admired in the Hugyfot/Inon solution that I was careful to keep when adapting it to the Sea&Sea housing. I appreciate that most accessory viewfinders don't do this, and there is an assumption that the viewfinder structure is sufficiently well sealed that this "belt and braces" approach is not necessary. Cheers, Martyn
  18. Oh Udo, I'm sorry for making your 45 degree viewfinder less special. Martyn
  19. Now this is just a wild guess, but was that somewhere other than the UK? We have "enthusiastically" applied cabin baggage regs here Martyn
  20. Erik, If you check out Sam's post about "melting" you'll find that what happened was the chrome on the battery compartment bubbled up and fell off due to elecrolytic corrosion. Some good pictures in there. This seems to be linked to a circuit being made through the housing. The Nexus housing that Sam uses would appear to be succeptible to this problem, either due to a metal camera mount (seems unlikely - I don't think the tripod screw is grounded on the 5D - could be wrong) or the particular ground wiring of the bulkhead socket. Hopefully if the metal camera mount is the issue, then a Delrin mount could be machined to break the circuit, otherwise a de-grounding of the bulkhead body might fix it. Martyn
  21. Indeed they really should sort this out. I believe they have been exploring the options, but Sea&Sea are perhaps not the fastest to respond to market needs. Hopefully having taken a lead in TTL strobe, they'll want to strengthen their offerings on the viewfinder front also. Martyn
  22. Hi Carol, I would have thought you'd have an ideal case with Sea&Sea USA for getting them to swap your Mk.I unit out for a Mk.II, seeing as how you were somewhat mislead about its compatibility with the YS-110s which you also bought through them. Maybe Ryan could bring it up with them. Martyn
  23. Looks like a pretty good price, well done. One thought about "the part screwed into the back of the housing", is it a sealed unit itself, so if the 45° part leaks or falls out, is the housing seal still intact? Martyn
  24. Lovely piece of work Helge. Makes my Inon/Hugy piece look rather boxy. So does it rotate at the slanted joining line partway back or just at the housing joint itself? Martyn
  25. Oops, that lack of YS-110 support on the Mark I has to be a bit embarassing for them. Good work finding the new Compatibility list. Martyn
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