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Posts posted by segal3

  1. Not sure I'd recommend going straight out and buying the 10-22...that's a big decision. Definitely a go on the 100mm macro however, and assuming you have the 18-55mm kit lens (or the 17-85?). Those two will get you started, from there it's up to you whether or not you enjoy the wide side (18mm) of that lens enough to delve into more serious wide angle...


    You don't really have a choice with regard to ports. You have a choice with lenses. Then the ports go with the lenses. Really quite simple :(


    With regard to strobes, you'll be able to use Ikelite's new eTTL2 circuitry with Ikelite strobes, the DS-50 or the DS-125. There are others who prefer Inon's strobes, but you won't be able to use the aforementioned TTL...


    Hope this helps somewhat...


    ~Matt Segal

  2. mirroring: ( http://www.wetpixel.com/PNphpBB2-viewtopic...ic-t-7124.phtml )


    The trip report/gear report is still in progress, but I'll have it up within a day or two...just wanted to give everyone a look at some of the 20D's pictures.


    As always, I love to hear feedback and comments...and for those of you on the fence, hopefully this helps you make your decision :wink:




    ~Matt Segal

  3. Well, it's up :D I think two days turnaround is a record even for me ;D


    The trip report/gear report is still in progress, but I'll have it up within a day or two...just wanted to give everyone a look at some of the 20D's pictures.


    As always, I love to hear feedback and comments...and for those of you on the fence, hopefully this helps you make your decision :)



  4. I guess you were the one who sent me the email, hope you don't mind me just posting my reply here -


    I just returned from a trip to the Turks & Caicos where I shot the 20D + Ikelite setup for 5 days. I'm in the midst of writing up an extensive trip/gear report, but my initial impression is that the Canon 20D is a great camera to shoot underwater. Very fast AF and clearing of RAW images from the buffer. The Ikelite housing was also very simple to both assemble and use. eTTL2 worked extremely well - it seems that Ikelite's EE's are doing a good job.


    I'll have the full gallery and trip/gear report up within a few days...until then, here's a teaser image - http://www.wetpixel.com/modules.php?op=mod...c&p=44407#44407


    ~Matt Segal

  5. I can suggest an easy change if you feel tray is the problem rather than control length too short.


    It's definitely not a control length issue (which I thought it was originally). I dove with the 100mm macro today in the #5508.45 (?) flat port w/ focus knob. In this instance, the lens is centered in the port hole because of the fact that the port itself is "supporting" (putting pressure) on the lens, pushing the camera a few millimeters backwards such that the aperture control works correctly.


    It wasn't an issue today, but I am slightly hesistant of using the 18-55 in the dome port (not that I was looking to use it too much anyways, shooting more macro :D )...by "easy change" do you mean here or once I get back?


    Other than that the housing and ports are rock solid, easy to use...


    ~Matt Segal

  6. I'm in Turks & Caicos right now - can't be on too long...


    Spinner - I had the same issue with the dust from the machining, but I used to do some work in that and I understand how difficult it is to control it from getting everywhere - I just took the time to wipe it off everything - the o-rings, the grooves, the ports, the housing (inside and out) - no big deal.


    Ike - One issue on the first day was that for some reason, the camera tilted imperceptibly forward the slightest amount - not enough to affect any of the camera controls, except for the aperture. So about halfway through the day I lost aperture control :D...I was able to fix it by backing the control knob out a touch (with the set screw), it should work. There is some "flexibility" of the camera forward and back even when tightened down on the tripod screw in the base. I'll keep you informed.


    Other than that, the eTTL2 is working great. I'm getting used to using two strobes as well, and I think I'll be shooting macro exclusively tomorrow. Slow connection here, so no chance to upload any pictures until I get back...


    BTW - The ports go on a lot easier when the lens caps aren't on the lenses :wink:


    ~Matt Segal

  7. Thanks all for the kind words and luck - hopefully I'll adapt quickly...best to do it while I'm young, no? :D


    it sure cleans up the rig to not have the manual controllers adding to the bulk of the system.....are you planning on using a focus light?.....how are you going to mount it?.....


    Re: cleaning up the system - I love how it's a little less cluttered as well, both aesthetically and logistically. With regard to a focus light, so far I've just been using the light on the DS-125s...I figure if I get desperate I can either a) rubber-band a small light under the macro port, or B) purchase a ULCS triple-clamp and mount it right above one of the arms...


    Be sure to lightly grease the port o-rings....it makes changing ports a snap....you've probably already done it,  but be sure to go thru the mounting sequence for all your lens/ports/sleeves/zoom gear before you leave on your trip...


    Interestingly enough, the ports slid in without too much resistance whatsoever. The macro was slightly more difficult to set in, but the #5503 was a piece of cake.


    the other tip I might add is to make attaching the sync cord to the rear of the housing your very last task as you assemble your rig.....you don't want to have it attached when you lay the housing on it's back to change ports....


    Same procedure as with the 5050 setup...I'm not sure about the tolerances of the cables, but even in packing I'm very hesitant to ever position them in a manner that places the cord right next to the connection at any angular bend...not sure how they take the stress? :-


    Trying to get *everything* packed :) I realized that I will *not* be able to take any of the old C5050 setup...no room :)


    So far, I've noticed one problem. It's not even a problem really, just a small annoyance. The TTL cord inside the housing, when attached, is pushed against by the Mode Dial (even when fully pulled out) when putting the housing together...*so*...I just stick a pencil in through the front to hold the cord down until I slide it past the dial. I guess a different solution is tape, but not going to worry about it since it works fine.


    A few more pictures just to tempt James some more :wink: :




    1/250, f/13, ISO800, 100mm, single-strobe eTTL2



    1/250, f/20, ISO800, 100mm, dual-strobe eTTL2 :D



    Straight out of camera, no flash compensation, USM applied and resized. Considering these are *highly* reflective surfaces...I don't see *any* problems whatsoever when using this on sand...we'll see :)


    BTW James - no way in the world I'm going into my freezing cold pool right now...lol...


    ~Matt Segal

  8. Hacksaw mod to the 10-22 EF-S should work (so you can use it on the 10D), just like it did on the 18-55 EF-S.  Strangely, I haven't heard of anyone actually doing this with this lens.  Perhaps someone on wetpixel can be the first.    :D


    It's been theoried out that the mod won't work with this lens...because of the fact that it's 8mm wider, that requires the glass to slide farther back into the camera housing...yields increased danger and possible destruction of the mirror (such is what I've gathered from dpreview)...it'd be nice if it did work though :)


    ~Matt Segal

  9. So...after days and days and weeks of waiting...I received two somewhat large packages in the mail today, containing none other than the elusive Ikelite 20D housing with eTTL2 support (which, if I might add, has exposed shots perfectly in my very short and simple testing)!!! Special thanks to both Ryan of UWCP.com and Ike Brigham of Ikelite for managing to get everything together for my trip.




    These horrible pictures that I took do not do the housing justice whatsoever...but, I'm tired (it's 11:30PM) and going to bed, so more pictures tomorrow as I figure out how to pack everything :D




    Getting used to the viewfinder will probably be the greatest challenge...we'll see how it goes. I leave for Turks and Caicos early Saturday morning :D


    To whet your appetite :)


    ~Matt Segal

  10. The way I saw it was...Don's original post mentioned "here's someone else that seems to be having the same problem," regarding the loss of sharpness and whatnot...and then he realized that "someone else" was you :D


    So...to quickly and quietly make sure no one noticed this egregious error...Don deleted his post... :shock:


    To his dismay, I was too quick, and saw it before it went away 8)


    ~Matt Segal

  11. Congrats on the new rig....I think you will enjoy it as a starting point.....the 18-70 can get good WA, fish portrait and close-up (won't call it macro)...you'll need a +4 diopter with the 5503.55 dome port


    He's not using a Nikon...he's using a Canon 18-55mm lens with his Canon DRebel, and it does *not* need a diopter with the #5503 dome port...


    ~Matt Segal

  12. With the 20D's ability to store both a RAW+JPEG file for the same exposure, I can preview/show my wife and the JPEG's and then process the RAW shots for the keepers when I get back home...


    Why not use Photoshop CS's File Browser to merely preview the RAW files? You can have them display as large as any other JPG would normally...of course they're unprocessed, and thus just as they would look as a JPG would...


    ~Matt Segal

  13. (no more evenings spent converting RAW to JPEG in Photoshop)...


    No offense, but this is not necessarily the best decision ...


    2) I have bought the Sigma 50mm macro and have the 18-55mm kit lens as a starting point. I plan to house both, but would be interested in suggestions for the best WA lens to add at a later date. The 18-55 can be housed using the 5503, a WA using this port would reduce the amount of stuff I need to carry. Suggestions?


    Darecky had very good results with the new Canon 10-22, the caveat is that it is not inexpensive ($900), and you will be limited it to using it with EF-S compatible cameras (read: if you ever upgrade to FF, you won't be able to use it)...otherwise I think Sigma makes a 12-24...and then there's prime WAs as well...


    Understand with the Ike system you will be buying multiple ports...it's simply how it's designed. Don't try to fight it :D


    ~Matt Segal

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