Jump to content

divegypsy

Industry
  • Content Count

    384
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

divegypsy last won the day on June 21 2017

divegypsy had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

20 Excellent

About divegypsy

  • Rank
    Eagle Ray
  • Birthday 02/27/1945

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.fredbavendam.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sarasota, FL
  • Interests
    travelilng, diving, photography, animal behavior, American football.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D800s
  • Camera Housing
    highly modified Subal ND800s
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite 161s; Hartenberger 250s; Hartenberger 625s

Recent Profile Visitors

9411 profile views
  1. If you really favor wide-angle shooting, one thing you need to consider is the minimum focus distance of your "kit" 24-70mm lens. If it doesn't focus close enough to work with the dome port you have available, you may need to add a diopter which can reduce the optical quality of the image and reduce the angle of coverage slightly. Also, I don't know about the performance of the Z 14-30mm behind a dome port, but many photographers who tried the original DSLR 14mm and 14--24mm lenses found that they did not get satisfactory edge and corner sharpness with those lenses behind dome ports. I'd suggest trying to rent or by the new 14-30mm Z lens to test it before you spend the money on it
  2. By stacking extension rings you can use either Nikon's 200mm f4 Micro-nikkor or the 70-180mm f4.5-5.6 Micro-nikkor zoom lens. Both lenses are considerably longer than your 105mm VR. If what you want is simply more magnification you might try either your 105mm VR or the 200mm Micro-nikkon with a dual element close-up lens such as the now discontinued Nikon Close-up lens 6T with give you a magnification of about 1.4x with the 105mm VR and almost 2x with the 200mm Micro-nikkor. I think you will find the image quality does not suffer nearly as much as with any tele-converter
  3. Hi Ian, A quick note to tell you that this adapter works very well. I've been using it (slightly modified) for the last year and a half. The combination gives you the double o-ring port sealing of Seacam combined with a Nauticam housing body which give you significantly better control access and control ergonomics than any Seacam housing body. Fred
  4. Dear Ms DeeDee, I would like to buy the Zen DP 170 dome port that you have advertised and sent an email to the email address you have given. Please let me know if this port is still available. Thank you, Fred
  5. Dissatisfaction with Adobe greed seems rampant. I am also using a purchased LR 6.14. When Adobe went subscription on Photoshop and the other CS6 applications, they lured a lot of people into Lightroom by saying Lightroom would always be an application you could purchase rather than subscribe to. And typical of Adobe, they lied. I wonder if this opens Adobe to a class action suit on the basis of intentional deception. Could legal action force Adobe to make Lightroom an application we can purchase outright again? Or might Adobe have to repay the money spent by Lightroom purchasers? Is there any interest out there in pursuing this kind of legal option? I would join it. Fred
  6. I have been using Ikelite 161 strobes on TTL combined with the Ikelite digital converter for the past year and a half with my Nikon D850 in a Nauticam housing and have gotten consistently good exposures with all lenses from the Nikon 8-15mm fisheye to the 105mm Micro-nikkor. The one place where there seems to be some problems is when I am shooting very close subjects and that may be due to the pre-flash not hitting the subject the same as final flash. Those close shots are frequently a bit dark which I correct by adding flash compensation in the + direction. Over the last week I've been shooting the big cuttlefish spawning aggregation at Point Lowly in South Australia in 12C & 13C water temps and every thing has worked as consistently well as when I was in Bali the month before. If you are shooting pictures with ambient light adding to the flash, then you need to turn the flash comp in the minus direction so that the combination of flash plus ambient light doesn't cause overexposure. The combination works so well and so consistently that I say my camera has a Phd - it says to me "push here dummy", meaning push on the trigger! Fred
  7. I purchased my Nikon 8-15mm last July and on my last dive on that year's dive trip shot it on a D800 in a Subal ND800 housing with a Seacam wideport on it.. Nice results, one of which, mating octopuses, I posted under this topic. I'm finally diving again with a new camera (Nikon D850), new housing (Nauticam NA-D850), and new port (a Saga 4" dome). Enroute to Australia I stopped in Bali and was able to do five dives with the above combination in conditions ranging from mediocre to great (Kalanganyar, then Menjangan Island, and finally Secret Bay). I took several hundred pictures with the fisheye behind the Saga dome which does not allow you to use Nikon's own lens shade. I did have a shade on the Saga dome port that was made from a PVC pipe-joint that I purchased from Home Depot for $6.05 and the paid a machine shot to fit to the dome. The shade also provides protection for the otherwise exposed and vulnerable glass dome. In none of my pictures did I get any of the unusual flare that Alex Mustard and Adam Hanlon reported. I enjoyed shooting pictures with the exaggerated perspective of the fisheye while getting quite close to subjects that were sometimes only a few centimeters in length. The striped catfish at Kalanganyar were only about 2-3 cm long, but look larger due to the fisheye and being only about15 cm from the dome port. The Striped Cleaner Shrimp was also quite small and was only a cm or two from the Saga dome port. The yellow frogfish, Antennarius hispidus, was about 20 cm long. The first shot with the rope was shot from about a foot away and the second shot from only a few inches. Although I was shooting FX with no cropping, it is easy to imagine the cropings that would have been possible had I chosen to shoot in the DX mode or 1.2 crop mode.
  8. All three of my Subal ND800 housings have now been sold.
  9. Christopher, I had a machine shop make the stainless steel push buttons specifically for my Subal housings. They helped quite a lot, but didn't totally stop the push buttons from sticking. The groove, however, makes it very easy for me to "unstick" the button by pulling it outward. Fred
  10. For Sale a Seacam fisheye macro port designed for use with a Sigma 15mm f2.8 fisheye lens. The port design requires that the built-in shade of the fisheye lens be "shaved" to fit into the port. Seacam sells this port brand new for about US$1400. I will sell this one for US$1050. The port has some scuffs on the plastic exterior, but the glass is pristine. The port includes both front and rear protective covers. I will give the buyer of the port the 15mm sigma fisheye lens I was using, but the lens is not part of the price I am asking because what one person considers to be a great lens another person may feel is only OK. I have switched to the Nikon 8-15mm fisheye zoom because I feel that is a better lens than the Sigma fisheye. The lens includes the sigma lens case and a lens cover which fits the "shaved" lens shade which the original Sigma lens cover does not. If interested or questions please contact Fred Bavendam at fbavendam@hotmail.com
  11. For Sale - a highly customized Subal ND800 housing and a Nikon D800 camera with many extras. US$3300 Housing customization includes: (1) Most apparent from the rear-oblique view is that the housing back is black. I had this done to make the D800 LCD screen more visible in bright ambient light. (2) This housing has a viewfinder adapter which allows the use of Nauticam viewfinders. The basic Nauticam viewfinder is included in the $3300 price. (3) Included as shown in front view picture is a Vivid Housings Leak Sentry Vacuum Seal check system. (4) The housing has a custom lever for the flash compensation control which allows you to keep that button on the camera depressed which allows you to shoot a sequence of shots quickly at different flash compensations in TTL. (5) The housing body is wired to be ready for TTL shooting with Ikelite TTL strobe system. The wiring goes directly from the D800 hotshoe to a Subtronic N5 external bulkhead with all 5 wires connected. (6) Your choice of either a Subal or Seacam port mount on the front of the housing. I have been using Seacam ports due to the advantage of their having a double o-ring seal. But I can change the housing back to a Subal Type 4 port system if that is what you want. (7) Due to some push-buttons sticking when depressed, a problem experienced by many other Subal users and comments in threads concerning stuck push buttons, I have replaced the critical buttons with stainless steel buttons that have a groove that is easy to grasp and pull outward if this happens. Third picture in advert shows a close view of a new button. One Nikon D800 camera body, two camera batteries, one battery charger, two 32Gb compact flash cards, one Lexar USB-3 ard reader that reads both Compact Flash and SD cards. If interested or questions please contact Fred Bavendam at fbavendam@hotmail.com
  12. I have used macro lenses behind smaller dome ports since my early years (late 1970's) in underwater photography. There are many advantages. (1) The macro lens has a wider angle of coverage which allows you to shoot larger subjects with less water between you and the subject, which results in sharper images. (2) Because you are shooting "wider", you also have more depth-of-field in the resulting picture for any given f-stop. (3) With auto-focus lenses, the auto-focus is faster because what you are focusing on are the virtual images in front of the dome and the focusing "throw" between virtual infinity and virtual subjects that are closer is much less than the focus "throw" between actual distant subjects and closer subjects that you would have using a flat port. It has been quite a while since I've dived with a 60mm Micro-nikkor, but using the 70-180 Micro-nikkor zoom behind a smaller dome is one of my favorite shooting combinations. One drawback in using a macro lens behind a small dome is that you cannot focus quite as close, which makes your achievable maximum magnification less. As an example. The maximum magnification of my 70-180mm behind a flat port is .75x. Behind the small dome port I use, the maximum magnification I can get is about .4x. I feel that the reduction of this maximum magnification vs being able to shoot wider range of subject sizes, especially larger subjects like fishes and octopuses, is a trade-off I'm willing to make on many dives.
  13. I have shot underwater with the Nikon D800 for the last four years, and skipped moving to the D810 because I felt it did not offer enough advantages vs the D800 to be worth the cost of new cameras and new housings. Recently, though, I have moved to the D850, which I do feel offers significant advantages vs the D800. I chose the D850 instead of the D500 for a number of reasons, most which I wrote about in the WetPixel DSLR thread "D500 vs D850?". Unlike TimG, I had continued to shoot with "hard wired" strobes, so there was no additional expense when I moved my Ikelite 161s to the D850. Like the D500, the D850 has Nikon's greatly improved auto-focus, which is first appeared in the D5. With respect to housings. Prior to the D800, I had been using first the Nikon F5, and then the D700, in Seacam housings, which I "abandoned" with the D800. Abandoned because Seacam had, in my opinion, become increasingly control deficient. No access to the programmable preview or function buttons. No port lock. Etc. And very heavy, very expensive viewfinders, which I replaced with Nauticam viewfinders while still shooting the D700. Nauticam viewfinders which allowed "in water" diopter adjustment. With the change to the D800, I decided to try Subal ND800 housings which offered all the controls I wanted. Unfortunately, in actual use, I experienced frequently recurring problems with the auto-focus point push buttons getting stuck in down position, which happened with both of the ND800 housings I was traveling with. A problem which caused me to miss a number of good shooting opportunities while I was trying to "free up" the stuck button. Eventually, with the help of a very good machinist, I replaced the original anodized aluminum push-buttons with buttons made of stainless steel which had a small grove which allowed me to easily pull the stuck push buttons back out, something which could happen as shallow as 3-5 meters. I looked at the Subal ND850 at DEMA, and initially ordered one. But when Subal couldn't fill the order in the "about a month" timeframe they had promised at DEMA, possibly due to their financial problems, I took this as a sign ( my order was jammed ) and decided I was unwilling to endure the possibility of fighting push buttons again. In early January, two months after DEMA, I decided to buy Nauticam housings for my D850s. Reef Photo in Fort Lauderdale was able to provide me with Nauticam housings virtually immediately. Like the Subal ND800s, the Nauticam D850 housing system offered me the possibility to use all my legacy Seacam ports and extension rings. I did need several new zoom gears. but there was no need for new ports and rings. And I continue to use the Nauticam viewfinders which I had switched to years before while still shooting the D700. So far, my only "in water" experience with the Nauticam housing has been in a swimming pool to try a new mini-dome port I bought for use with the new Nikon fisheye zoom lens. My initial pool results with that port and lens were very satisfactory. I still need more time for acclimatization to the control layout on the Nauticam housings, but I am very impressed so far and hope to get into the ocean with the new system soon.
  14. I did not seriously consider the Nikon D500 when I made my decision to upgrade from the D800 to the D850. You can have almost all of the D500 "advantages", if you want them, by shooting the D850 in the DX crop. Or go midway between the two with the 1.2x crop. If you shot the D850 in the DX crop, you have virtually the same MP image, but you can only shoot at 7fps vs 10fps. But no underwater strobe can keep up with either of those frame rates except at tiny fractional power outputs. When you shoot DX with the D850, you see well beyond the DX area and can see fish and other animals that are just outside the DX area. Animals that may be about to enter you picture and which you might like to include by waiting momentarily for them to arrive. Or eliminate by shooting quickly. A fisheye or wide-angle zoom of the same focal length, when on the D850 in DX will exhibit virtually identical depth-of-field as it does on the D500 if you are using the same aperture and same dome port. What you really get with the D850 for that extra money and slightly larger size vs the D500 is far more versatility. The versatility to choose when FX and 46MP will do a better job for you that DX and 20MP. More of Nikon's FX lenses cost more than their DX equivalents (eg. 40mm micro-nikkor vs 60mm micro-nikkor or 85mm micro-nikkor vs 105mm micro-nikkor) and it is likely that you get more for that additional money in things like build quality which affects how long the lens will perform at top specs. Carrying this line of thought further - Alex in his review of the new Nikon 8-15mm fisheye zoom wrote that some of his mates were calling it the "posh toki". But Adam in his write up also mentioned that he and many others he knew had had at least one of their Tokina 10-17mm lenses fall apart or fail in other ways. You always pay for what you get. But you don't alway get what you pay for. Especially when you go the cheap route. And in the Nikon system, all you have to do is look at the DX system as a whole, vs the FX system, and you can see where Nikon is putting their money and effort. That is why I went with the D850.
  15. Alex, you talk about using the Nauticam WACP with a Nikon 28-70mm lens. Nikon's own website does not list any 28-70mm lens. Please supply more details about the Nikon lens you used with this port
×
×
  • Create New...