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ReelBruin

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Posts posted by ReelBruin


  1. Well keep in mind how varied NZ is from North to South. The BOI (Bay of Islands) feels like Hawaii/Fiji in their summer, and I believe that absent storms, water temps are aroudn 70 and vis is prob 50-100 I'm gonna guess. It's not as warm as people think. But it IS extremely interesting - it's such a mix of habitats.

     

    There is also diving on South Island, but that's all dry suits. Basically NZ goes from Fiji like conditions in the extreme North to penguins near Christchurch, close to the South Pole.

     

    Cousteau put the PK Islands on his list of Top 10 spots in the world. Also, the Rainbow Warrior wreck is near there.

     

    One other thing of note is that the guides said that normally there are many, many rays there of several variety, but whales had been through eating them.


  2. This is Doubtful Sound in the morning. Doubftul Sound is on the Tasman Coast of the South Island of New Zealand, and is a transitional area between the Tasman Sea, and more polar regions. The area is dominated by interesting rainforest vegetation due to huge amounts of rain. Think - Jurassic Park.

     

    CP-5000 by itself, ISO 100. No retouching. I like the greys on this. That "tunnel" of light just happened.

     

    DoubtfulSound.jpg


  3. A little SCUBA on the honeymoon at the Poor Knighs Islands in NZ. What's amazing about the PKI it is a complete mix of CA diving with South Pacific. The bottom is rocky reef and some kelp-like veg (visible in photos), but the fish are tropical. It's what you get when you mix the warm current from the Tasman coming over the North end of NZ on the North Island (PK Islands are at the Bay of Islands) and the colder polar water.

     

    Unfortuantely there was high turbidity on this day (note some backscatter) because we were diving right after a big storm.

     

    CP-5000, Ike housing, ISO 100, DS-50 and DS-125. Some retouching to improve the contrast on the ray's skin. In this photo I did what I could to ensure totally natural hues.

     

    EagleRay1B.jpg

     

    One shot of the islands themselves.

     

    PoorKnightsIslands.jpg


  4. The F4-U Corsair at about 100' off Honolulu. Taken with a CP-5000, single DS-125, ISO 100. Some retouching to enhance the yellows on the fish. I like how the sand looks like sugar in this picture. Unfortunately the post isnt doing the original justice with the sand, which looks positively crystaline and brighter.

     

    corsair_fish_email.jpg


  5. So how do you "know" if a camera is 4/3 or 3/2 (or 4:3 or 3:2 I guess). I realize that 3:2 is traditional 35mm size....are most DSLR 4/3 or 3/2? Examples D200 or Cannon E30D...would those be 4/3 or 3/2?

     

    And other than print size, does it make much difference?


  6. I'be been shooting with a Coolpix for a number of years, but this year I am doing to upgrade to a DSLR. I just read a few reviews of the new Olympus E-330, and it dawned on me then how much I rely on the LCD on the CP for a live view, because we all know that there's a bit more between the eye and the viewfinder underwate. So who WOULDN'T want an E-330? Anybody used this thing yet? Other cameras in consideration are the D200 and E30D.


  7. Hello - I assembled my gear tonight in preparation for a trip to NZ. I have a Coolpix 5000, DS50 (and also an SB105). I have used this camera and flash with a Ike 6190 housing in the past when I was experimenting, but the housing I used was a rental. I finally bought myself a 6190. I assembled everything, cabled the flash, and hit the shutter release, and NO STROBE FIRE.

     

    I then set-up a dual-cord (I have one) to both my Nikonos SB and the DS-50..neither fired. I can test fire the two strobes so I know the problem is not the strobes.

     

    In terms of camera settings, I went to speedlight controls in the menu and set the variable power to -2, and the control to auto. I note that on the Ike website this is supposed to make the "flash in a circle with a line through it" appear in the lcd, but it didn't. I also hit every single flash mode using the button on the camera...nothing.

     

    Thoughts? Suggestions? Help!


  8. Thanks for all this input. I appreciate it. I'm torn. The way I see it:

     

    Pro-Ikelite: clear acrylic, ike-to-ike system and I have a DS-50, don't mind the larger size, price, comes with red filter

     

    Against Ikelite: would need to buy strobe controller to match ROC ($150)

     

    Pro-Tetra: ROC

     

    Against Tetra: Price, availability, need to purchase Ike or Nikonos bulkhead? Need to purchase strobe attachments?

     

    Hmmmm.....

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