Jump to content

aaervik

Member
  • Content Count

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About aaervik

  • Rank
    Starfish
  • Birthday 01/10/1988

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Location
    Trondheim, Norway

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    --
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon A620
  • Camera Housing
    Canon WP-DC90
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Nikonos SB-101
  • Accessories
    custom passive slave flash adapter
  1. Just a thought, and something I will try out in the near future: jeremypayne, you're mentioning the average raw function. This function takes several raw shots, and then averages them into one image. How will this work with backscatter? Will it remove it completely, or just slightly? The option was made to tackle digital noise from the sensor, but perhaps it will be easier to delete "mechanical noise" in the form of backscatter, which moves from image to image and is larger and less frequent... I will certainly test this feature soon. Cheers, Aasmund
  2. Hi all! The CHDK firmware hack is truly a brilliant tool, and it works well. B) Something to note, though, is that on some cameras, the "enhanced menu" button is assigned to the "print" button on the camera, and Canon does not implement this on their underwater housing, strangely enough . There are some workarounds, if anyone is interested they can ask me. If anyone is worried about destroying their camera, this has never happened, and the system is designed to prevent this. If you don't like CHDK, or your camera is going in for service, you can just format your memory card with your computer, the hack disappears without trace. But remember, the hack lies on the memory card, so if you switch memory card you have to have CHDK on both cards. However, you should be a little computer savvy and have some time on your hands to get to know this. That being said, this system does so many cool things. Imagine, for instance, the possibilities of motion detection for shutter release! Just leave your camera on the reef for half an hour, and all the curious fish in the world will appear in your pictures. (This feature has almost become standard.) And the system is user expandable, if you know how to write some code (BASIC). Scripting can control almost all of the camera, and many of the scripts out there enable things such as optical zoom during video HDR bracketing / exposure bracketing / focus bracketing setting focus values in cm from front of lens time-lapsing and raw shooting The list is nearly endless. @Hal By the way, as for the Ixus SD850, I understand this camera is built from Canon without a variable aperture, only a ND-filter that can be turned on or off to simulate F2.8 / F8.0. (You can test this by shooting the same image in different lighting and see if the depth of field changes...) But I think control of shutter speed is enabled with CHDK. All in all, it's well worth it to try it out. Cheers, Aasmund
  3. Hi everyone! My name is Ã…smund Ervik and I've been diving and photographing underwater for about one and a half year. I live in Trondheim, Norway. I've already made some posts here and there, but never really got to this introduction bit I study math and physics at the Norwegian University for Science and Technology, going for an engineering MSc. During my spare time I dive (obviously) and I do alot of alpine skiing. I also enjoy making stuff, and I've built a ~$15 slave flash adaptor for the Nikonos SB-101 which I will post to the DIY page when I can find the time. I use this frequently with my trusty Canon Powershot A620 Below is a photo of a nudibranch taken in the Trondheimsfjord, I think this is my best photo so far. Only color has been corrected and some backscatter removed. Finally, thank you to everyone who has replied to my posts, and to everyone here who share their genius with the rest of us mere mortals in their own posts:)
  4. Thanks a lot, both of you! As Giles said, a lot of good advice here. I will definitely be trying to keep these things in mind the next time I go out diving. I will try and post a follow-up or something as soon as I get back in the water, which may not be very soon as I have some exams coming up. Regarding the general advice from Chris: By finding good negative space and THEN looking for subjects, do you mean I should find an area where I will be able to frame the subject against a nice background (i.e. black background) and then find a subject that will fit against the background? Is this a good technique in general, or is it more of an advice for environments where subjects are easy to come by? I do agree with what you said on the composition though, especially the nudibranches. I regret now that I didn't get closer. But they're not that rare to come by here, so I'll be prepared next time Again, thanks a lot. Aasmund.
  5. Hi! I am pretty fresh to this forum, and to underwater photography, so I decided to post some of my recent photos wanting critisism of them. First of all, I dive in Norway in cold green water, so please forgive me if my photos don't show stunning vis in the 20-30 meters range etc. That said, anything on how to make my photos look that way is very welcome. I shoot a Canon PowerShot A620 with Canon's underwater housing, a Nikonos SB 101 flash with auto light-metering and use a cheap dive-light as a focus light. I usually shoot in manual mode with manual focus and custom white balance. First photograph is of three nudibranches on a branch of seaweed. How do I make this look more interesting? 1/125 shutter, F8.0, ISO 100. Manual focus @ 15 cm. Second photograph is of a crab resting in a trench in the sand. I was going for an artistic composition here: How do you think it works? 1/125 shutter, F8.0, ISO 100. Manual focus @ 30 cm. Third photograph is of a hermit crab, macro (beyond 1:1). Any thoughts on how this could look less "square on" or "documentary"? 1/125 shutter, F8.0, ISO 100. Manual focus @ 10 cm. Any comments at all about what could or should be done differently is most welcome. I am especially interested in tips on how to compose shots better, how to achieve good lighting and color and how to avoid backscatter. Thank you, Aasmund.
  6. Hi! An amateur with a P&S working in cold green water hardly stands a chance in this amazing lineup, but I'll give it a shot with three of my greatest from 2007. 1) Ridiculously spiky sea urchin resting on ledge. shot in Trolla, Trondheim, Norway using a Canon A620 in Canon WP-DC90 housing with Nikonos SB-101 & SU-101 (sic) with home made flash adapter 2) A young lobster almost comes out of it's cave to study the strange looking photographer. shot in Trolla, Trondheim, Norway using same equipment 3) Jellyfish that had lost all it's tentacles (probably during a storm). Still a beautiful creature, almost sad. Skin dive. shot in Kvaasefjorden, Kristiansand, Norway using just a Canon A620 in Canon WP-DC90 housing.
×
×
  • Create New...