bvanant

It is interesting that the D-Max does not appear on the US Scubalamp website Bill

I shoot with the EM1 mark II in a Nauticam housing, it is indeed way way more better than the Oly housing. All of the features of the camera are pretty much there for you only using your right hand. Once you add a tray and strobes/lights the size difference is negligible. The EM1-II has much better autofocus and the IQ is better as well. The battery is much larger as well. Over the course of a couple of years (say 2 trips per year and 30 dives/trip) you get 120 dives so the price per dive difference is like a single nitrox fill. That being said you could look at the Nimar ($600). Cheers Bill

I will be sending Stuart some home made cables from 613 and 1000 core fibers as well as some 3 mm fibers that have good transmission as well. Bill

As for the fixing the leak, drilling and draining and filling will be fine, but you need to know where the leak is before you can completely fix it. If it is a diffuse leak it might be tough. If you have a pressure tester you could figure out where the leak is, otherwise you might not find it. BVA

I think that Nauticam HAS discontinued the old carbon fiber arms and have now the carbon fiber/aluminum arms. Two different beasts BVA

I think that Nauticam HAS discontinued the old carbon fiber arms and have now the carbon fiber/aluminum arms. Two different beasts BVA

I am not sure about the "complete the dive" part. In most out of air situations I would clip the camera to my BC and the two of us would go up as reasonably fast as possible. I understand the long hose story if you are teaching but for most photographers, I just don't get it. We have been on approximately 24,000 person dives (4000 dives with an average of 6 divers per dive) and have had one issue. The back o-ring on a DIN-Yoke adapter blew out at depth so my buddy and I shared air (via an Air2 no less) and went up, did our safety stop and all was well. No thought though of completing the dive. Bill

Changing the battery on the D4/D6 is not at all complicated. Just make sure that the o-ring is in the right place. I have changed mine and my wife's several times with no bad results and the battery is like $3. You can buy the kit with the correct o-ring for $10 or so. Bill

There are hundreds of small machine shops in the UK. Try AN (http://www.an-engineering.co.uk). But don't be surprised if it costs more than you would like. Bill

Well there is the Scuba Show in Long Beach as well, traditionally held in May but not yet clear that it can be held this year. I think the price for the new Inon will be about $700 US (the old one is $500) so still like 60% of the Nauticam price. I have both the Nauticam and the old Inon for use with my Nauticam OLY housing and can't really tell much difference. Bill

Jim: Bill here. If Bluewater can't get it fixed, bring it the next time we do the Giant Stride and I can help you with it. BVA

You can get the whole assembly here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INON-Advanced-Cancel-Circuit-Spare-Part-Magnet-Replacement-For-INON-Z-240-/372678921216 for 45 Euro or so. Unscrew the old one and put in the new one. Buy one magnet and see if it helps. Bill

In the Sola series from L&M there are wide/spot versions at 2000 Lumen and 2500 lumen. There is also a new Backscatter version that has wide and spot and the wide is like 3400 lumen (from a bad memory). Bill

Kerry Wilk has a trove of other snoot shots that are also amazing, but that double eye shot is pretty amazing. Personally I don't shoot snoots very often but I have friends who shoot with them most of the time. Bill

You can kill the mold (usually) with several hours of UV exposure. But killing it isn't getting rid of it. If the mold has been there long, it can secrete acids the can lead to pitting of the glass so killing it should be the first step. I have successfully rebuilt an SMC that had a small leak leading to fogging but you will need the right o-rings as Chris has said. Bill