bvanant

If it really is 24 V then you would have to do some wiring. Alternatively I could send you a dongle with a pin removed, that is simple. Bill

Yeah, I see that. Do you know what voltage the lights charge at? The USB-C version puts out 15V. If that will work then just cut off the alignment post (I assume the other two posts have the right spacing). If you want to try it let me know, I will send you a USB-C plug with the post removed. If it works then you can buy a new one if not just send it back. Bill

You might try some of your local dive shops or you can get hold of the underwater spotter crew on Pinterest or twitter or maybe even facebook. Bill

Joe: You can buy an adapter from L&M that will work with you lights using a USB-C charger https://lightandmotion.com/products/usb-c-2l-charge-dongle?variant=35504734568598&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl_SHBhCQARIsAFIFRVXogt_3mvDND_7zHI_CwTACrO6QAmy71IrEigMVBfx_WrgSjM_kXIsaAqUiEALw_wcB it's $49; we have a couple and they work well. I have tried to get that part only from L&M with no luck. I might have a spare plug somewhere but try the USB-C piece; it works well for our lights. Bill

Chris is right about the ton of bad video out there; as I said I am lucky, my wife shoots and edits pretty well so I am spoiled. Bill

I think the biggest difference is that you need to think about your audience. Even for experienced photographers, well shot video is often a revelation. Video gets much more oohs and aahs than even some of the best photos at both LAUPS and OCUPS competitions. And your friends who are not divers will likely like video more than most of your photos. That being said, the big issue with video is that you need to edit and have a story, but if you have that I suspect most folks who are looking, like video better. That being said, it is a lot easier to hang a photo on the wall compared to video for looking at over and over. I am in the best world, I take photos, my wife shoots video but if I want to re-live a trip, I look at the video. Cheers Bill

i think the main issue is that there are a lot of steps that many of don't have the tools for. I make lots of UW gizmos but don't have access (anymore) to any surface mount component tools and getting some of the surface mount parts off of the board with a traditional soldering iron is painful. Also having to 3-d print the housing is a problem. Using the flash as is but at very low power works fine for most of us. Bill

Tell your wife to just sew one up for you. You must have a few old wetsuits lying around that she could cut up. Alternatively there are a bunch of neoprene pouches on amazon that seem to be big enough for the housing (6x5x3 inches). Cheers Bill

I guess it is a matter of cost/benefit but lots of folk seem to be anti-subscription on general principles. I think of LR/PS (here still $10/month) as similar to my internet service, phone service, etc. We are fortunate to dive a lot (except this year, diving only in local LA waters) and are happy to pay our LDS $12 for a single nitrox fill so $48 for two tanks for the two of us. In a normal year of say 250 dives each, I will pay Adobe about $0.40 per dive (less than $0.01 per photo) to allow me to edit photos from that dive. So paying Adobe $10 a month so the two of us can edit photos seems not so bad. There are lots of things about the way Adobe does things that are annoying but it is clear to me that the new LR is way more better than LR6. We all pay for subscriptions ranging from your house electricity bill to cable, to internet to wifi etc. Somehow Adobe has been targeted as evil by having us subscribe. The only way that this will get reversed is people leave Adobe in droves to go to some other software and I don't see that happening. I think most businesses that run Adobe software like the subscription model better than spending lots up front; ours does for sure. Bill

aThey are quite nice lights. We use them a lot as focus lights, but are bright enough for video. Bill

Nitecore NITECORE-NL2650DW 26650 5000 mAh 3.7V Protected are good batteries. Nitecore sells two versions of this battery one for vaping (Not protected) and one protected one. The cells are likely Panasonic but the protection circuit is from Nitecore. Bill

I have probably tried all of the easily available rubber compositions for ball o-rings ranging from nitrile through fluorosilicone and silicone. For me the best at keeping arms put is the standard orange silicone from McMaster or the o-ring store. In my hands at least softer is better for keeping arms in place, but you need to unscrew the clamp a bit to get them to slide easily. Bill

For night and black water dives, the 30 is indeed my go to lens, the 60 is too hard in those conditions. Bill

We have an RX100-V. Nice for wide angle stuff and fish portraits, really not nice in any way for macro things but maybe your idea of macro and ours is different. Check out www.blueviews.net for some macro video, not shot with the RX Bill

I shoot all of these on a regular basis (except the Hopkins which is quite rare in PV where we are diving. I use both the 30 and 60 but my preference is for the 60. It is sharper than the 30 and as Chris says getting them full frame with the 30 is quite tough. The other advantage of the 60 is that if you use an external diopter you get more magnification. BVA