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bvanant last won the day on February 14

bvanant had the most liked content!

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About bvanant

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    Sperm Whale
  • Birthday 09/13/1951

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    Los Angeles (more or less)
  • Interests
    Science, photography, travel

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 7D
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon, Sea and Sea, Ikelite
  • Accessories
    ULCS and Hartenberger

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  1. bvanant


    If you mean sell use the classifieds
  2. I think that the adapters for the old styles work fine for the T4, BUT the short version for T4 will not work on the older sensors where the sensors are physically longer You can also use the Kraken adapter if you can find them (Mine were special order from Kraken) Bill
  3. It is expensive living in Australia (but worth it if you can get in the water these days). 100 mm square Wratten 2A filters are about $30 US. I haven't tried one for defringeing but we use one occasionally for some fluorescence filtering work in the lab. Bill
  4. I haven't tried the Retra but they fire for me with the Nauticam LED trigger for the olympus Bill
  5. In the water, I have had it not work but unplugging the optical cable from the strobe and letting the tiny air bubble out and then plugging it back in always (so far) seems to work. Bill
  6. TV Remote does indeed work as Chris suggests but the aiming is more tricky than with an Inon of S&S. Bill
  7. that is strange, in my hands the BS strobe works pretty well with even the small LED trigger for the OMD. Try swapping cables, cleaning the ports on the housing. Does the BS fire if you point the output of the z330 at the sensor? Bill
  8. Live view also known as the stinky baby way to hold the camera (far in front of you). The 45 takes a bit of time to get used to but once you do it is hard to go back. On a recent trip, I borrowed a camera with no 45 and couldn't find the darned critters. Bill
  9. In my hands at least and using this battery tester, eneloops (white or black) after a refresh cycle sometimes show much less than the expected capacity. I have an old set of white (2000 mAh) batteries that when new tested at 1 amp discharge and gave like 1900 mAh results. Over time they drifted down. I refreshed them in a LaCrosse battery charger and after refresh and then fully charging them they were only 1300 mAh. If they do test at full capacity on a 1A discharge they appear to work fine in strobes. I also have been looking at internal resistance and it goes up on older batteries even after discharge Bill
  10. I have both the Inon and the Nauticam and use them pretty much interchangeably, the Nauticam is a bit brighter but it is not clear to me that one is way more better than the other. Bill
  11. Given a typical NiMH discharge curve a digital VM is really not a good way to test AA batteries. Better to use a pulse load tester like the one from ZTS. With a voltmeter you might be at only 10% capacity and not know it.
  12. I don't know about arms and clamps. Clamps have lots of torque on them and I suspect that is why they are all Aluminum rather than molded plastic. Molding would be lots more economical than 3D printing (you still have to finish things like threads) and lots cheaper than machining hunks of Al. Clearly one area that is ripe for printing is focus/zoom gears. Those are ideal Bill
  13. If it is indeed a problem with the strobes (as it seems) maybe the firmware change might solve it. Bill
  14. HUH? IF the strobe is in manual and the camera is in TTL it should not work consistently. Does it work with camera in manual and strobe in manual (your discussion suggests not and that is very weird). Bill
  15. If the strobes work fine in manual mode (as you suggest) then there would seem to be only one possibility and that is the strobe is not seeing the TTL setting meaning that it is not running TTL at all. The S&S compatibility site doesn't show the d750 but all of the Nikon cameras need to be in A mode (as pointed out above). There is supposedly a strobe firmware update available but not sure how to get that done. Bill
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