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Everything posted by bvanant

  1. TV Remote does indeed work as Chris suggests but the aiming is more tricky than with an Inon of S&S. Bill
  2. that is strange, in my hands the BS strobe works pretty well with even the small LED trigger for the OMD. Try swapping cables, cleaning the ports on the housing. Does the BS fire if you point the output of the z330 at the sensor? Bill
  3. Live view also known as the stinky baby way to hold the camera (far in front of you). The 45 takes a bit of time to get used to but once you do it is hard to go back. On a recent trip, I borrowed a camera with no 45 and couldn't find the darned critters. Bill
  4. In my hands at least and using this battery tester, eneloops (white or black) after a refresh cycle sometimes show much less than the expected capacity. I have an old set of white (2000 mAh) batteries that when new tested at 1 amp discharge and gave like 1900 mAh results. Over time they drifted down. I refreshed them in a LaCrosse battery charger and after refresh and then fully charging them they were only 1300 mAh. If they do test at full capacity on a 1A discharge they appear to work fine in strobes. I also have been looking at internal resistance and it goes up on older batteries even after discharge Bill
  5. I have both the Inon and the Nauticam and use them pretty much interchangeably, the Nauticam is a bit brighter but it is not clear to me that one is way more better than the other. Bill
  6. Given a typical NiMH discharge curve a digital VM is really not a good way to test AA batteries. Better to use a pulse load tester like the one from ZTS. With a voltmeter you might be at only 10% capacity and not know it.
  7. I don't know about arms and clamps. Clamps have lots of torque on them and I suspect that is why they are all Aluminum rather than molded plastic. Molding would be lots more economical than 3D printing (you still have to finish things like threads) and lots cheaper than machining hunks of Al. Clearly one area that is ripe for printing is focus/zoom gears. Those are ideal Bill
  8. If it is indeed a problem with the strobes (as it seems) maybe the firmware change might solve it. Bill
  9. HUH? IF the strobe is in manual and the camera is in TTL it should not work consistently. Does it work with camera in manual and strobe in manual (your discussion suggests not and that is very weird). Bill
  10. If the strobes work fine in manual mode (as you suggest) then there would seem to be only one possibility and that is the strobe is not seeing the TTL setting meaning that it is not running TTL at all. The S&S compatibility site doesn't show the d750 but all of the Nikon cameras need to be in A mode (as pointed out above). There is supposedly a strobe firmware update available but not sure how to get that done. Bill
  11. That certainly is a Subal bayonet, but don't know if it is T3 or T4 Bill
  12. The theoretical point that matters is that using a diopter to increase magnification depends intimately on the focal length of the lens. Working distance underwater will depend on the index of the glass in the lens but in general is larger by the water index 1.33. Unlike Interceptor, I think that my testing on land translates pretty well to both the theoretical model and to how a diopter behaves UW. The Olympus 30 mm is in fact one of those that a diopter doesn't help in any way except that you can use a diopter not for magnification but rather for Bokeh considerations. Bill
  13. Diopters increase possible magnification for a subject by allowing you to focus more closely. For most cases, the longer the focal length of your lens the more magnification you can get with a given diopter. For example with a 100 mm macro lens (1:1) and a +10 diopter you can expect to see a 2.1 to 1 meaning for a full frame setup without the diopter you can shoot a 35 mm subject full frame, while with the diopter you can shoot a 16.6 mm subject full frame. Similarly with the 60 macro lens (1:1) and a + 10 you will see a magnification of about 1.5 to one so you now will be able to shoot a 24 mm critter full frame. For a +5 diopter with the 100 you get about 1.5 to 1 and with the 60 you get about 1.2 to 1. All of this comes of course with working distance and DOF considerations as well as lighting issues.
  14. Putting the batteries in the LED trigger is not the way that is obvious. You need to make sure that the little tab that looks like it should be between the batteries is in fact on top of both. Have seen this issue come up multiple times. Bill
  15. You could print a holder, but the pricey bit is the filter which if you could 3D print would be truly amazing
  16. Dichroic filters are expensive; we use NightSea's version for Inon. You can get some bandpass filters that might work but you still have to mount them. There is no very simple plastic filter that will work well, filters for the UV need to be glass or quartz to work reliably Bill
  17. that's what I assumed. Still a good deal BVA
  18. I am using the Asahi-Kasei 613 core fibers that have an OD (with the jacket) of 2.2 mm. They fit fine in the Howshot fiber connectors that I am using. I lubricate the fiber before I put it through the solid part of the adapter but otherwise no issues. Bill
  19. Did you mean 30% of retail price or do you mean 30% off retail price (a significant difference) Bill
  20. That doesn't look like a Nauticam part at least not for any housing I have used. As Bill1946 says, go to your local hardware store and find the size of screw that fits the hole. Then get a stainless steel one (316 is best, 304 is OK). Most likely it is a 6 mm screw size but might be 8. Bill
  21. We have done a lot of testing of prints at various resolutions. In our hands, both Canon and Epson printers have their "best" printing at 360 DPI. We tried from 150 - 720 DPI. After 360 not so much improvement, but big differences from 150 to 360. Even 300 to 360 was noticeable but after 360 not much improvement. Of course it depends on both the photo and the paper you are choosing, but for underwater scenes on Red River metallic papers those were the results. Bill
  22. There are other options, some are free or inexpensive. Darktable appears to be quite nice (learning curve if you are using LR/PS). Luminar is also quite good and only $89. For me though the subscription model is not a big issue, I just skip Starbucks once a week and am about even. Bill
  23. If anyone wants some cable, let me know. I can buy a bunch and ship USPS to Europe for about $29 U.S. Better would be someone in Europe get a bunch of orders together and buy 100 or more meters and parse it out there. Bill
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