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bvanant

Team Wetpixel
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Everything posted by bvanant

  1. But of course this is not useful information about reliability in any way. There is way too much selection bias and without knowing the denominator (i.e. total number of strobes being used) all you can surmise is that some strobes of some specific type have some problems. I think that there was a really useful discussion by Alex a while back that talked about which strobes failed most while on his trips. I think that S&S was most likely to fail particularly the D2 and the Z240 appeared to be quite reliable. Of course this is another biased set of data (only the broken strobes were discussed, with no data on how many of the strobes were actually used) but probably can be thought of as close to truth. Bill It would be useful but very unlikely for manufacturers to give out data like MTBF but like charging times it might turn out to be mostly fiction. Bill
  2. In general there is more light transmission with the 1.5 mm core fibers than with the 1 mm core. If you are using an LED to fire your strobes as opposed to an onboard flash and your strobes are hard to fire (S&S) then you might be in the situation where the 1 mm core is not as reliable as the 1.5 mm core. OF course if you use the Inon bushings you could put 2 fibers in each bushing. Bill
  3. I don't think you can beat Weldon's quality https://www.weldoncolorlab.com but they are not cheap. Bill
  4. The Tooke cables are fine but at $30 with shipping a bit more expensive than making your own. Of course making your own has a fun quotient that should not be discounted. Bill
  5. In general there is more light transmission with the 1.5 mm core fibers than with the 1 mm core. If you are using an LED to fire your strobes as opposed to an onboard flash and your strobes are hard to fire (S&S) then you might be in the situation where the 1 mm core is not as reliable as the 1.5 mm core. OF course if you use the Inon bushings you could put 2 fibers in each bushing. Bill
  6. The real issue of course is getting 500 Meters of the stuff. A 500 meter spool is $1785 and with shipping here in the States will be about $1900 or $3.80 per meter. I just sent some of the 613 core material to Michael in Germany and 5 meters cost me I think $14 to ship. I marked it as a "sample" to try to avoid VAT/Custom issues. If anyone is coming to the states in the near future I could buy a spool for you to take home, but I am not up for making 50 individual shipments ( I would rather be diving). Cheers Bill
  7. There is a new ULCS tripod that is designed for this type of housing. Bill
  8. You might also use some ChristoLube. Find a rebreather dealer; they will have some O2 stable grease floating around, but Chris's suggestion of Nauticam will also work. Bill
  9. You might take a look at the micro 4/3 systems like the Olympus OMD EM1 Mark II. Same 21 MP as the D500 but with a 2x crop you could use the 60 mm macro lens and get enough resolution easily. Smaller and easier to handle as well. Bill
  10. If they sell it by the meter, I will buy a bunch and ship it to someone in Europe where VAT is manageable. Then you can parcel it out however you want. Bill
  11. I talked to the i-fiberoptics sales guy and they MIGHT put some of the 1.5 mm on sale by the meter. I have bought some of the 1.0 fiber and shipped it to a few people at USPS cost, I have no clue about VAT. Bill
  12. The Asahi multi-core are the most bend resistant especially compared to single core fibers. Elias and I will argue politely about this until we are both dead. A lot depends on your use. For using with a camera's built in flash and for manual mode (non-TTL) then any old fiber will mostly do especially for Inon strobes that are simple to trigger. For LED triggers then multi-core fibers do indeed work more reliably as many people have demonstrated here on Wetpixel by buying a new fiber when the old ones didn't work. For LED with TTL then multi-core gets even a bit better and if you are trying to run TTL on a S&S strobe you need all the oomph you can get. The length of the fiber connector that I use (like in the photo) is just under 24 mm (23.8 or so) if that helps. In my hands at least I see no difference between the hand made 1 mm 613 fibers and the commercial 1.5 mm coils in terms of triggering S&S YS D1,2,3, or Inon S2000, Z200, Z240 and Z330, Backscatter mini) from the Nauticam LED trigger for the OLY Em1-II. Bill
  13. As for the group buy, 50 meters of cable is a lot unless you are going into business (although I admit I probably have bought more than 50 meters if you add up all the cables that don't work. For most situations, 2 meters is a good cable length if you coil it so 10 meters would make 5 cables. If you do coil it, I have found that putting it in cold water then heating to just boiling then letting it cool (all the way to room temp) works best. Cheers Bill
  14. I have made coils from many of the Asahi cables. All for use with LED firing modules and S&S strobes. The 613 and 217 core both work perfectly There is a 1.5 mm core 613 fiber but not available by the meter from i-fiberoptics (at least today). Bill
  15. If it really is 24 V then you would have to do some wiring. Alternatively I could send you a dongle with a pin removed, that is simple. Bill
  16. Yeah, I see that. Do you know what voltage the lights charge at? The USB-C version puts out 15V. If that will work then just cut off the alignment post (I assume the other two posts have the right spacing). If you want to try it let me know, I will send you a USB-C plug with the post removed. If it works then you can buy a new one if not just send it back. Bill
  17. You might try some of your local dive shops or you can get hold of the underwater spotter crew on Pinterest or twitter or maybe even facebook. Bill
  18. Joe: You can buy an adapter from L&M that will work with you lights using a USB-C charger https://lightandmotion.com/products/usb-c-2l-charge-dongle?variant=35504734568598&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl_SHBhCQARIsAFIFRVXogt_3mvDND_7zHI_CwTACrO6QAmy71IrEigMVBfx_WrgSjM_kXIsaAqUiEALw_wcB it's $49; we have a couple and they work well. I have tried to get that part only from L&M with no luck. I might have a spare plug somewhere but try the USB-C piece; it works well for our lights. Bill
  19. Chris is right about the ton of bad video out there; as I said I am lucky, my wife shoots and edits pretty well so I am spoiled. Bill
  20. I think the biggest difference is that you need to think about your audience. Even for experienced photographers, well shot video is often a revelation. Video gets much more oohs and aahs than even some of the best photos at both LAUPS and OCUPS competitions. And your friends who are not divers will likely like video more than most of your photos. That being said, the big issue with video is that you need to edit and have a story, but if you have that I suspect most folks who are looking, like video better. That being said, it is a lot easier to hang a photo on the wall compared to video for looking at over and over. I am in the best world, I take photos, my wife shoots video but if I want to re-live a trip, I look at the video. Cheers Bill
  21. i think the main issue is that there are a lot of steps that many of don't have the tools for. I make lots of UW gizmos but don't have access (anymore) to any surface mount component tools and getting some of the surface mount parts off of the board with a traditional soldering iron is painful. Also having to 3-d print the housing is a problem. Using the flash as is but at very low power works fine for most of us. Bill
  22. Tell your wife to just sew one up for you. You must have a few old wetsuits lying around that she could cut up. Alternatively there are a bunch of neoprene pouches on amazon that seem to be big enough for the housing (6x5x3 inches). Cheers Bill
  23. I guess it is a matter of cost/benefit but lots of folk seem to be anti-subscription on general principles. I think of LR/PS (here still $10/month) as similar to my internet service, phone service, etc. We are fortunate to dive a lot (except this year, diving only in local LA waters) and are happy to pay our LDS $12 for a single nitrox fill so $48 for two tanks for the two of us. In a normal year of say 250 dives each, I will pay Adobe about $0.40 per dive (less than $0.01 per photo) to allow me to edit photos from that dive. So paying Adobe $10 a month so the two of us can edit photos seems not so bad. There are lots of things about the way Adobe does things that are annoying but it is clear to me that the new LR is way more better than LR6. We all pay for subscriptions ranging from your house electricity bill to cable, to internet to wifi etc. Somehow Adobe has been targeted as evil by having us subscribe. The only way that this will get reversed is people leave Adobe in droves to go to some other software and I don't see that happening. I think most businesses that run Adobe software like the subscription model better than spending lots up front; ours does for sure. Bill
  24. aThey are quite nice lights. We use them a lot as focus lights, but are bright enough for video. Bill
  25. Nitecore NITECORE-NL2650DW 26650 5000 mAh 3.7V Protected are good batteries. Nitecore sells two versions of this battery one for vaping (Not protected) and one protected one. The cells are likely Panasonic but the protection circuit is from Nitecore. Bill
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