Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Ychng

  1. Hi all! I'm putting up my backup rig for sale, consisting of: 1) Seacam Silver housing for Canon 1Ds Mark II or 1D Mark II, in great condition. Never had a leak - a super reliable housing! Bought new for ~$5000. Two Nikonos N5 bulkheads and internal leak detector. All buttons, levers and gears in perfect working condition. Asking price $500 - priced to sell! Photos attached below. 2) Canon 1Ds Mark II body in good condition, with all original accessories, cables, manuals, charger, AC adapter and box. Low shutter count (38,960 of a rated 200,000 which is about 19% of the shutter life), beautiful images. This was my backup camera so did not see much use for the last 4-5 years and was stored in a Lowepro bag in a cool, dry place. Recently did a test studio shoot with it - images are gorgeous! The rear and top LCD displays were protected with sheets of protective film from day 1 and hence are pristine. Bonus items include: - extra NP-E3 battery, for a total of two NP-E3 batteries ($130 value) - Really Right Stuff (RRS) Quick Release plate B57L, for the Mark II body (>$150 value) - Invisishield Rear and Top LCD protector kit Canon 1Ds Mark II is listed on Ebay here as a 7 day auction http://www.ebay.com/itm/131373120694?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
  2. For sale are a couple of unused Amphibico underwater aluminium lightweight Color (Colour) and White balance charts, completely new and unused, never been in the water. Won them at a raffle and never had the chance to use them. Amphibico part number ACWB7011, new price $150 on the web. http://www.amphibico.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=48 Asking $99 obo for each chart. Actual photos of the charts for sale attached! Thanks - message or email yeang underscore chng at hotmail with any questions! Yeang
  3. James, please don't be so altrustic, bid I say, bid!! Just kidding... though i would like to see it go for a fair price. I love my Inons to death (I have 2), and am only selling this one as the next two years I'll be stuck on the wards with about 1 week of vacation time a year. No diving for me! spc337, the Inon Z220s refers to the version without the focus light and laser. Sorry, I should have made this a bit clearer. Bad naming choice on Inon's part too I suppose. But in terms of the actual strobe itself, the flash output is identical to that of the Z220, and battery life will be better depending on how much the focus light is used on the Z220. One thing I love about the Z220/220s that is NOT available on the new Z240s is the recycle beep. Inon to my great disappointment removed the beep feature so you cannot tell when the strobe has recycled. I can't tell you how many times I have relied on that beep when my eyes are glued to the VF! Yeang
  4. Hi all! Just wanted to post a heads up that I've listed my Inon Z220s on Ebay here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1 Perfect working condition, never had a misfire or leak in 2.5 years and 5-6 dive trips. Only selling as work situation will not allow me to dive at all for the next 2 years or so Thanks all, Yeang
  5. Hi all, Just wanted to share a great repair/service experience that I had recently, especially after years of Canon's slow and inefficient repair centers! In fact, many of you might know Dave Marsh from Underwater Photo-Tech - he's been at many of the UW trade shows and also posted some on the forums. He's no longer with UW Photo-Tech but I found out where he is now. Dave is the new Director of Professional Services at Precision Camera, which he tells me is the largest camera repair firm in the world. Anyhow, my Canon 10D had been suffering from a broken shutter button for a while now. I sent it in to Canon for out of repair service, and they gave an exorbitant estimate plus took 3 (THREE!) weeks just to ship the camera back after I refused their estimate. By chance I had emailed Dave just to see what he was up to, and he offered to help me out on the 10D repair. I also has a 24-70L lens that was suffering from a broken front plastic ring, and I sent that along as well. Suffice it to say that the service at Precision Camera was night and day from what I get at Canon. At Canon my 1D2/1Ds2 has been known to sit on the floor of the office forgotten for 3 weeks before someone even opened the box. At Precision Camera, my repair was given personal attention with frequent email updates as soon as it arrived, and the repairs were completed with a turnaround time that was obscenely fast. (I don't want to quote it as they are not fully up and running yet, but Dave says that they are committed to fast turnaround times). Very importantly, they maintained a great line of communication and respected all my requests regarding the repair to the letter. Bottom line is, after years of dealing with various repair and service centers, this was probably the best experience I've had getting something fixed! Highly recommended. For those of you who are interested in an alternative to Canon/Nikon/whatever else, Dave's division at Precision Camera will handle pro level DSLR products, lenses and flash units. Apparently in 2007 they'll service medium format backs, studio lighting stuff, and also pro video and underwater equipment as well. Here's their website: precisioncamera.com and if you know Dave you can reach him directly at 800-665-6515 x117. Yeang
  6. Hi Cronix, Thanks a lot for confirming the kind of slow recycle time. Yes, I agree all in all it looks like one of the best options in the market. If they reduced the recycle time and made the batteries removable I'd be placing my order today! Yeang
  7. In my experience over 3 years of using Z-220s's with a 1.6x, 1.3x and full frame camera, I've come to find that although power can be an issue sometimes, using the Inons on a full-frame camera starts giving coverage issues sometimes. By that I mean that with a fisheye 180 deg. lens on a full frame camera, I find myself lighting two sides of a wide angle shot with significant falloff in the middle of the frame. I have considered getting a 3rd Inon Z220/240 to cover the middle of the frame, which actually Ryan Canon of Reefphoto does on occasion. He does recommend it - so that is one possible solution if you run into coverage problems with a Fisheye.
  8. Hi guys, I've been reading this thread with great interest. Thanks to all who've contributed valuable info. I've been looking around for a more powerful solution than my current Inon Z220's, and am very interested in the Seacam 250TTLs. However, I am concerned to hear that recycle time was an issue for Ortan as he mentioned above. Cronix, what are your impressions as to recycle time on these strobes during normal use? And after a full dump? I do realize that full dump recycle times are usually deceptive as most of the time, esp with such a powerful strobe, we are not using a full dump - so if someone can give an estimate of recycle times on typical wide angle shots with sunballs, that would be great! Thanks a lot, Yeang
  9. I've put this setup on Ebay, starting price $975 no reserve, BIN $1375.00. Here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1
  10. Hi all, I'm putting up for sale my Jonah Canon 10D housing. It's worked very well during the time I've had it -- it has kept the camera bone dry through every dive and I'm still on the original O-rings! All the controls and buttons work smoothly except for the top info LCD illumination button, which is very stiff and needs some lubrication. I don't use the button (on night dives I just look through the viewfinder) so I didn't bother to fix it. The finish is in great condition -- I have taken very good care of it through all its dives. There are some minor marks on the back that were there from Day 1, probably machining marks (see photos). Ports are pristine. I have also added a hotshoe mount to the top of the housing (cemented on with epoxy) to hold a focus light like the L&M Sunray mod light or a AA dive light of your choice. I find this indispensable on night dives! Most of the other 10D housings in this price range do not have hotshoe mounts on top, and some cannot even be retrofitted for one (e.g. Sea&Sea). What is included: Jonah 10D machined aluminium housing, in silver (new $1,899) 8" dome port with built in shade (new $395) Flat macro port (new $229) Port extension ring (new $89) Cover for dome port Sea&sea cover for flat port Extra O-rings, pins, springs and Allen wrenches for minor adjustments Paid $2612 new, asking $1275 for everything. The ports will allow you to use the Canon 50 and 100 Macro lenses, the optional EF Lifesize converter for the 50mm Macro, Sigma and Canon 15mm Fisheye lenses, Canon 16-35 and 17-40 lenses. I've mainly used the Sigma 15mm FE and Canon 50/100 Macro in this housing. I've been very pleased with the performance of this housing, and it has gotten me many nice shots. All the UW pictures taken in my gallery (http://www.pbase.com/ychng) were taken with my 10D in this housing. Here are some pictures of the housing, the rest may be seen here: http://www.pbase.com/ychng/ebay_items Feel free to email me or call me at 617-721-6459 with any questions! Thanks, Yeang
  11. Kasey, how can you go back to shooting 36 exposures on a dive?! I've been spoiled -- I average 100 or so shots a dive, probably more. Of course 99% of that is crap..... I ran into a guy shooting a Canon A-1 underwater, while I was in Bonaire. It boggled my mind -- Manual focus, Manual exposure, manual strobe power, NO TTL, no review!! He'd been doing it for the last 20 years, so he knew every shot setting. If you're reading this, hi Joe! Yeang
  12. Hi guys, hi Tom, I've been very pleased with the performance of my 10D underwater so far. Tom, you make some very good points in your post. However, I've thought extensively about the pros and cons of housing the 1DM2. Like you, I love it as a land camera, although mine has a slight focus miscalibration (backfocus tendency). It is an AWESOME bird-in-flight camera stopped down moderately with 45pt AI-servo though, makes it so easy! One minus that people rarely talk about with diving the 1-series is the control scheme. The fact that you have to press TWO buttons and turn a dial to change ISO, for instance, will be a pain in the butt, unlike the 10D/D60. Imagine trying to do that while hanging on to a rope in a current. Don't get me wrong, I like the control scheme on land; what all the supporters say is true -- you never accidentally change settings. The second thing -- a 1-series housing is going to be at least 1.4-1.5x the size and weight of a 10D-type housing, I think. Much more bulk to haul around! On my recent trip to Bonaire I had to do a 10 minute walk back to my room after every dive, as I was told not to leave the 10D+housing in the wash tank. My back and shoulders were SORE! The pros aren't all that useful either. I never found myself wishing for faster AF underwater, and I must say after Canon calibration my 10D is MORE accurate than my 1DM2 with my set of lenses. In fact, the 10D probably focuses as fast as the 1-series cameras, as many people have pointed out; it's just not spec'd as accurately. One -con- of the 1-series underwater is the size of the focusing points. On land I love the smaller focusing points as I can land it on the eye of a bird, but underwater, with bad vision and your mask some distance away with a moving critter, I can think of many situations where the large 10D central AF sensor is actually better. What I would really like to house the 1DM2 for is it's quick write and review speeds! I can't count the times that I've shot and waited an eternity for the histogram/review to come up on the 10D, and meanwhile the critter has burrowed under a rock. Having said all that, I'm still debating whether I should sell my 10D/housing and get onto the Seacam list. I'd probably be better off spending that money on a trip to Cocos or something Yeang
  13. Herb and Eric, What shutter speed are you shooting those sunballs at? On many occasions, my 10D produces sunballs with smooth gradients like what Eric's shown, using EVU or FVU to convert. So it's not solely a 1Ds thing. Yeang
  14. Eric, I've noticed the exact same posterization in shadow areas with ACR, in fact this all started with the 2.2 version that added support for the Mark II. I posted about this issue a few weeks ago in both Rob Galbraith and DPreview. Some people have chimed in to agree that ACR exacerbates posterization. No one has produced similar results though, which is why I was glad to read your article. Here is the link to my DPreview post, with sample images & shadow posterization at ISO 250! It's not only high ISOs, I've gotten it at 250 and 400 too. http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp...message=8996064 Anyhow, I have my suspicions that it might also be a MarkII related thing. My 10D files also gets posterized with similar settings, but not as badly. Many people have posted MarkII files converted with ACR at various shadow slider settings and not gotten any posterization. I've ordered another MarkII to see if this hypothesis is correct. Yeang
  15. When I went to Sipadan a few months ago (late December), I left from Penang, so I had to stay a night in Tawau. However, there were in excess of 10 people who arrived from KL via Air Asia that same day. The flight gets in a 9 or 10 am or so to Tawau airport, which incidentally is midway between Tawau and Semporna. All the resort vans are already waiting for you at the airport. Then, a 30-40 min ride to Semporna, on to the boat, and a 30 min journey via speedboat to Sipadan. You'll be there by noon on the same day you leave KL, if you get your flight in early in the morning. msg me for more info if you need. I was at Borneo Divers at Sipadan, and SWV in Mabul. SWV has an awesome resort, and you can't beat the dropoff and night dives at Borneo Divers Sipadan. Yeang
  16. Over my last 100 or so dives I've been using Cochran Technology's Gemini hoseless. I've had absolutely zero problems with it, including diving on various Nitrox mixes. The interesting variation that this computer has is that the main electronics and computer live in a small box that clips to your BC hose, sort of on your shoulder. The rationale behind it being that if you move your hand up quickly, you don't trigger a rapid ascent alarm. They also incorporate redundant battery compartments in the computer unit. The computer unit communicates via RF to a wrist unit -- the display area is large, like that of the Aeris series if you've seen them. I like my Gemini a lot -- the newer ones have more features, but even the old ones are extremely customizable w.r.t. conservativeness etc. The backlight on the wrist unit is a deep red that does not kill your night vision. I also dive with a Vyper as a backup, but the SPG function has been very reliable. Yeang
  17. Before I get sued for libel, I should say that it is only conjecture that the Jonah housing caused the button breakage on my 10D. I have not actually quantified the exact spot where the lever presses the shutter button -- it seemed the most likely explanation to me at the time though. After all, it could just be shoddy Canon plastics coupled with a very skinny (plastic) column under that big ol' shutter button on the 10D. Yeang
  18. Beautiful sunballs, Stu! I so wish that viz was better -- in Sipadan by the time I reached 30' the sun was just a vague glow above You misunderstand -- the shutter button that broke is on the Canon Though I guess it might be Jonah's fault for not aligning the lever properly! I taped it over with Scotch tape and it kept going... Yeang
  19. Hey Stu, I guess it's the tips and not the finish on the housings! I really like the Sigma 15 on my 10D. I don't notice the distortion UW at all, and it's REALLY sharp. My WA pics at Sipadan didn't turn out as well as I had hoped, plus viz was very bad for the area, so most of my WA shots were chucked due to backscatter. On a side note, the shutter button on my 10D broke off underwater! All of sudden I could only focus but not trip the shutter... apparently the shutter lever on the Jonah wasn't hitting the shutter button dead center, and the torque eventually broke the shutter button off. having said that, here are some with the Sigma 15 that were ok: http://www.pbase.com/image/25379352 http://www.pbase.com/image/25325030 http://www.pbase.com/image/25379305 http://www.pbase.com/image/25325033 Didn't want to insert the images in line as this isn't really a photo thread. Yeang
  20. Scubajack, I had the same debate as you did between the Jonah and the Subal. In fact Stu and I talked a bit about the two housings... he almost convinced me to go Subal. But I'm glad I didn't, and here's why -- having the Jonah makes it less painful to upgrade to the new wave of TTL-enabled housings that are coming. Furthermore, the differences in _functionality_ between the Subal and Jonah housings are small. What I would really pay more money for, the Subal does not have, i.e. viewfinders ala Seacam, eTTL compatibility, or ROC strobes control ala L&M. So you are paying for higher quality ports, a nicely finished, higher quality and possibly more reliable housing (no one has reported floods in their Jonah yet, so there is no data here) with the Subal. However, the functional difference in the water wasn't worth the price difference to me. Having said that, the boatmen at Mabul always offered to carry another diver's L&M D100 housing before he even looked at my roughly-finished Jonah... it's a dog eat dog world. (Sterling, are you reading this?) Yeang
  21. I think the 'antenna' thingies are called rhinophores. Great pictures! I'd generally agree with Simon's recommendations.
  22. Hi Scubajack, I have a 10D too, and have been using the Jonah housing since November last year. The list above is pretty comprehensive, but one housing you might want to hold out for is the Inon one. For more information, check the news archive from a couple of months ago -- looks like it might support TTL with Inon strobes, the only housing to do so for the 10D if you believe the Japanese translation.
  23. Great job! I love the second shot, as whitey does.... The fact that it's slightly askew doesn't bother me, and even adds a bit of spontaneity to the picture. What won me over with the second one was the sharp focus on the eye, whereas on the first picture the critical portions of the face were in shadow. I snorkeled with dolphins on Roatan, in Anthony's Key Resort, but they wouldn't let anyone in the water with their own cameras :/ wanted to sell us pictures that they took, of course. Yeang
  24. Wow, that's something new --- I didn't even know that these eels change sex. I have a lot to learn about marine biology! Thanks for the cool information Linda. At least I can console myself by saying "It's a shemale eel!" Yeang
  25. Hi again guys, I've been sorting through all my blue ribbon eel pics that I took off Kapalai island. So far I've been horribly disappointed at the feel of the pics I've gotten... in contrast to the many photos of this species I've seen, my photos of this eel seem to lack 'punch' or 'snap' for lack of a better word. I've played with saturation and selective sharpening, but neither seem to help much. It might be a color balance thing, but I did try several temperatures while converting in ACR. Perhaps it's just the lack of a black open-water background.... Here's the best of the bunch, which is pretty feeble:
  • Create New...