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Everything posted by mondo

  1. Agree. Its disjointed and until Adobe either beef up the LR CC ecosystem (including macOS / Windows versions) to close the feature gap with LR Classic, or they fully embrace the catalogue system in LR CC, making syncing with Classic easy, we will continue to have this issue. I wouldn't be looking to sync such a large library either. What I do is work on a regularly small number of images on my iPad, storing those images (and their edits) on the iPad. I let these sync back via the CC infrastructure. The rest of the images I import locally when I get home, from the Gnarbox. These images remain on the local catalogue on my iMac, and don't sync. That is the crux of it. Have you taken a look at the new On1 360 announcement? Cheers Des
  2. Hi Adam, good to hear from you. It's been a while! An iPad Pro based work flow is something I am also excited about. I've been working for sometime to get a workflow I am happy with, and its very, very close now. So what I am doing with this is importing all images to my GnarBox. I can do the keywording and rating in the GnarBox app. TBH, the GnarBox apps are still a little clunky, but they're getting better. The device itself is, in a word, outstanding. I then pull over the best of my images onto the iPad, and import them into LR (mobile). With cloud syncing, anything I do there ends up synced back to my iMac at home (once I have connectivity, of course). So with the workflow above, the edits and meta data I've started on in the field are already synced back. I then download the remainder of the catalogue off the GnarBox into LR Classic at home to do a review of all the other images, in case anything I missed should've been in my main selects. No worries - I look forward to hearing of your experiences (and others'), and sharing some ideas on how to get a great workflow!
  3. Chiming in late, but yes. Pick one system and run with it. Since the change to iPadOS, we can now load directly to LR and skip Photos. It is a great travel setup. I did a four week trip to Iceland and Europe last year, and did not take a laptop. Worked a treat. I also use a GnarBox, and that provides back up and security, while meaning not every image needs to go into your cloud syncing account. I actually really like editing on LR on iPad, and probably edit about 60% of images in LR Mobile on iPad only. Another 30% or so require Lightroom Classic on my desktop when I get home, and less than 10% go into Photoshop and/or Luminar. The easy syncing from LR Mobile to LR Classic is a great workflow.
  4. I am a G9 user, but haven't taken it underwater yet. My last underwater rig was a Nikon D200, and am now really comfortable with my G9 (topside), and am setting up my Nauticam rig. Hope to have it in the water in the coming weeks. So my comparisons are really topside based, but I love the G9. It is a comfortable and fun camera to use. Intuitive to use and capable of a wide range of photos. Looking forward to getting the unit underwater.
  5. Seeing that photo, and reading some of the descriptions of the photogs on the list, surely there is defamation going on. Its borderline, but the site is tasteless and well done all for trying to get the message out.....
  6. Like many who have responded, I am very sad to hear of Ike's passing. I've used a bit of Ike gear over the years, and I've enjoyed the great customer service that Ike is famous for. I trust his legacy will live on, and send my condolences to his family, friends and the people at Ikelite.
  7. Hi Eddy The Z220's that I have do NOT have modelling light or laser. This was the reason I was considering a swap. Was there more than one model of the Z220? I am using an Aquatica AD200 and Nikon D200. Cheers Des
  8. I use Ikelite DS125s and Inon Z220s with both an Oceanic VTPro and an Oceanic Atom2. No problem with either. Had problems sometime back with an old Oceanic Datatrans Plus and Sea & Sea strobes. But its not really an issue. It loses connectivity for a couple of seconds, then returns to normal. Go for it. The one less hose, and the computer on your wrist where you can see it is a great setup for a photog. BTW, free tip, I prefer the computer on my right wrist
  9. Thanks Mike. Appreciate the fast response! Great cover on Scuba Diver, btw.
  10. Hi All I currently have a couple of Inon Z220's and am considering get one or 2 Inon Z240's - mostly because of the aiming light. Do the Z240's use the same Sea & Sea sync cord as the Z220's? Cheers Des
  11. Hi Marcelo Nikon Imaging has a good series of tutorials at this website. I really like this application - the only thing I haven't found that I use regularly on CS2 is a Save for Web function. I know Save As can do it, but I like the resizing in the CS2 function...... Cheers Des
  12. Hi Alex Can't argue your logic there. I think a lightweight travel BC will be on my shopping list before my next holiday Cheers Des
  13. I recently went down the same path. I have a pair of DS125s, and have always loved them. They are a great strobe, but big and bulky, and heavy to pack. I got an opportunity to try out the Z220, and was instantly amazed at how such a small light strobe can produce such good results. Now I travel with 2 x Z220s as my main rig. Don't underestimate how much benefit the lighter strobes will have underwater as well. BTW, as others say, Ike's service is incredible. So far I've not needed to find out how it is with Inon. But I did with the Ike's. Cheers Des
  14. Hi I have a Nikon D100 and Aquatica AD100 setup. This is my first Aquatica housing, but for several reasons, I am pretty sure I'll be staying with Aquatica for future requirements. These reasons are 1. Quality of housing - very good. I do get some paint chipping around the port area, but am glad to hear that is fixed on new housings. Hasn't caused me any problems. 2. Quality of ports - excellent. 3. Ease of Use - very good. Sometimes mounting is a bit fiddly. 4. Bang for buck. Best of class. 5. Service from Aquatica. Simply put, Blake is the man. I've owned Sea and Sea and Ikelite housings in the past. Ike is also great, but I personally prefer the metal housings. Sea and Sea make an excellent product, but I think that their digital series was a serious step back. The F80 housing I had was wonderful - compact, light, well engineered, etc. But the D100 housing was all the opposite things. I know Nexus have a good product, but would highly recommend the Aquatica product. Best wishes Des -- Des Paroz Sydney, Australia www.BlueBeyond.com.au
  15. Hi AB I got a similar problem at one point, then I tried the old process of RTFM. Did you disable anti-virus, and remove other USB devices while doing the calibration? I switched over to a PS/2 keyboard and mouse so I could do this, with the added (actually much greater) benefit of freeing up 2 USB ports. After I did this, then my results have been bang on. SW based tools are notoriously unreliable - your perception of colour changes with fatigue, ambient light, the amount of caffeine/alcohol and anaesthetics you've been exposed to....... Cheers, Des
  16. I have to agree with most of the people who posted that the Ike DS125s have enough power settings, and the manual controller, while a nice product, may not be necessary in many scenarios. Don't forget that the use of the diffuser on the strobes gives you another full stop or so of light reductions, giving you Full, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, and then with the diffuser, 1/16. More than enough for most purposes, I'd suggest
  17. I used Elements for years - version 1 and then version 2 before upgrading to CS. For most people, I think Elements offers a lot of power, and I am not sure if there is a need to go to CS. For me, the major reason for CS was to do with being able to have my images in a CMYK format, and also to deal with RAW files wihtin the program. If you don't need these things, then, perhaps Elements will be more than enough...
  18. Hi Marty Whew, I thought it was just me. Or more specifically, since I installed a new DVD Super Multi after installing Pro Show. I do exactly the same as you, and it works a treat Best Des
  19. Hi Ike Well when it is, I humbly offer to be a tester for a DTTL version of the DS125. Just let me know where to send the order! Thanks for the good news Best Des
  20. Personally, I think that we won't see TTL as such in future digital cameras. I think that DTTL or iTTL will become the new standard The problem is, for a little niche market like ours, will Nikon and Canon and others release the specs to 3rd party manufacturers like Ikelite to build strobes to that spec?
  21. Ike, James and Andrew THANKS. You guys are legends. Best Des
  22. Hi All I have just got my new Aquatica D100 housing, and everything is good, except that there seems to be some sort of problem with the strobe connections Basically, if a strobe is attached and turned on, the flash symbol flashes, and I cannot trigger the shutter. I have tried 3 different strobe/sync cord combos - 2 x Ike DS125's and 1 x S&S YS60/N. I have changed the flash function in the CSM menu to manual. My housing has dual ports, and I have tried having both single strobes attached, as well as duals. I have tried the singals on both bulkheads (though I assume that the left side one (looking from the back of the housing) is the primary. Am I missing something, or is there a likely problem with the connection? Appreciate any help Des
  23. Thanks Andrew! The ports for the F3 and F4 were a standalone series, as were the ports for the Aquatica 80 (for N8008 / F801) Ports have been interchangeable since the F90 series, and cover the F5, F100, D100 and S2. Best Des
  24. Hi Louis Firstly, see if you can get a class with a well known shooter. I did a course about 8 years ago with Kevin Deacon, and that gave me a good foundation. Read all you can - my favourite book, by far, is Martin Edge's The Underwater Photographer. Books by Howard Hall, Paul Kay and Jim Church are also excellent. As an accomplished photographer already, you could also take the route of studying other photos that you like, and "reverse engineering" them - working out how the photog achieved the shot. It is an interesting process to look at an image and work out if they used artificial light, if so how much. What sort of lens they used, and perhaps how the selected positioning and subject. Then make lots of photos, and self-critique. Also, consider posting your photos to boards like this and usefilm.com to take a look at how others respond. Wetpixel users will look at the technical aspects of the image, and provide valuable feedback. With relatively few uw photogs, usefilm.com will tend to give you more view of what people respond to Above all, have fun.
  25. Hi Maggy I use ProShow Gold by Photodex. Sounds like what you are looking for. Photodex Website Best Des
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