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Everything posted by Plyschmannen

  1. Can it be that you have silent shooting on? From the manual If you use a non-Canon flash unit with Live View shooting, set [6: Silen LV shoot] to Disable. The flash will not be fired if it is set to Mode 1 or Mode 2. Page 288 in the manual. /Björn
  2. Quick test. I know the dual cables needs to go the right way in the camera and the strobes. Not using ikelite anymore, but make sure the red/blue labled ends go in the correct device. /Björn
  3. Walt, regarding your previous commend about partitioning the drive. As an old PC user, when people still had to reinstall the operating system once in a while to speed up your comuter, your suggestion was a valid one. However, nowdays with SSD drives and without the option to change just one harddrive if it fails, the suggestion just adds shortcomings. You run into the risk of running out of space for your pictures/movies on your secondary drive and still have room on the primary, or the other way round. Finding files (with spotlight) will not be quicker with your way, since most of the system-files (/Library for instance) is excluded in the search, and most other are hidden from finder. SSDs (that face it, most laptops run on these days) servers up data just as quickly from the first block as from the last, and its actually better for the SSD to be able to use the whole drive to even out the writes on the HD (SSDs have a finite numbers of writes per block) then to force it into specific partitions. So while your suggestion was valid say 5 years ago (at least use an SSH drive for the OS and another for storing your data) the same usage on a modern laptop with just one SSD is not somthing I would suggest do. /Best regards, Björn
  4. I ended up finding a store that opened before I left Stockholm, so I am now a proud owner of (yet another) tube of Sea&Sea lubricant! Thanks for time and effort though guys! /Björn
  5. Thanks Stephen, those were the threads I found before, and it doesn't give me an affirmative answer. I guess I could try to find a Sea&Sea store in KL on my transfer day. The place in Indo is at Pulau Weh, and pretty much everything there is very basic, so I'm somewhat skeptic mail will get there in time before I leave. /Björn
  6. Hi, I've managed to loose my o-ring lubricant for my (new) Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobes. I'm leaving to Indonesia tomorrow, and realised that I might not have the correct lubricant for the blue o-rings. Sea&Sea stresses the user to use their own yellow tube with a blue cap. What I do have is quite a few tubes of Nauticams lubricant. White opaque, with the text "Suitable for Nitrile and Silicone rubber o-rings". Will it be OK to use Nauticams lubricant on the blue Sea&Sea o-rings, or will they swell and potentially break? I've tried searching, but mostly found threads talking about Tribolube. /Best regars, Björn
  7. Hi Wetpixel. I just got the new v2 housing with the new number 17315, whereas the old was 17305. When I first asked around about the differences (still no info about that on Nauticams webpage), I was quoted it was only a weight reduction thing. After receiving it, and with all the extra equipment along with it, I have found out the following: It does come with two handle balls. It does come with the Handle Brackets (25055). It has the new vacuum test circuit installed, not just leak detection (the v1 did not). You still need the vacuum valve for it to work though. It has the new strobe prism (26312) for use of YS-D1 with fiber optics installed. It has an extra M16 port. There is also a slight change in the position of the Info-button, which have moved slightly to the left. So I have sent a few things back to my dealer, and just wanted to let the rest of the community know this for future reference. /Björn
  8. I just saw that a new WA lens has been announced ( http://www.canonrumors.com/2014/05/canon-announces-two-new-ef-ultra-wide (weitwinkel)-angle-zoom-lenses-and-white-eos-rebel-sl1-digital-slr-camera/ ) . I'm currently looking for a setup for my 5dmkIII. Having sold my ikelite setup, I'm starting fresh, and considering lenses and ports. Have initially been thinking about a Nauticam, and then buy the Canon 8-15 to use. However, this being a fullframe camera, that would go from circular crazy wide to wide. Unless your shooting whale sharks, Im thinking that might not be the ideal lens. I was in Coccos last year, and looking back at my shots and my gopro shots, extreamly few times did I wish for wider shots. More tele on the other hand... I have already the Sigma 15FE and Canons 16-35 f/2.8 II, but I also read up that you need a very big dome to get good corner sharpnes, and preferly a 82mm +2 diopter. I'm using the 16-35 for other things (indoor concerts) so I'm not getting rid of it, but if this new lens, for a quite decent price, could outmatch the 2.8 version, and possible let me use a smaller dome, it would be something to consider. Does anyone have a guess on what dome it would perform best in, and how small you possible could go? I'm doing all my diving traveling, and a dome take up very much space in the carry-on. And thinking of going with glas, does add quite a bit of weight. Any feedback would be appreciated. /Björn
  9. Hrrm, would it not be better to get a ball adapter that fits straight into the gopro, rather then get the tripod base of the gopro? I got this one from ebay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAM-GoPro-Hero-Camera-Adapter-w-1-Ball-/160909864010 for $11 ,and then just hook that up to any normal 1" ball. Its plastic, but works great and with just enough movement on the ball for easy adjustments (unless you lock it down by tighting it up all the way). /Björn
  10. As other have said, Kri is special. They have Cape Kri as their "house reef", which during my 20 days stay in Raja Ampat was the best dive I did. Loads (4-5?) of pygmy seahorse, clown frogfish, blacktip, whitetip, napoleons, and very big schools of barracudas and snappers. And Max is a very nice host as well. /Björn
  11. I came back from a Shark / Dolphin trip with Dolphin Dreams a few weeks ago. We were there mostly for the sharks, but did one session with the dolphins. For that, its no strobes. It does indeed create drag, and to get as close to them as possible, you want to be as "active" and playful as possible. You want to swim down, spin around, swim as fast as possible and basically be "fun" for the dolphin to be around. This combined with the fact that you do this while snorkeling and over sandy bottoms not deeper then 30 feet, means you dont use the strobes. I used a smaller dome, to reduce the drag even more. Lots of fun, but super hard work, compared to the "sit on the bottom and be as still as possible" approach you do with the sharks. One last tip. We had 23-24deg C in the water, and even with hoodie and 3-4-5mm wetsuit, I was freezing a lot. You dont swim around as you would on a normal dive, so bring extra insulating stuff if you have. The shark dives are usually very shallow (tiger beach is 20feet deep where we were) so 100 minutes dive where common, and you use more air while cold. /Björn
  12. I use Cobian aswell. I'm not aware of any backup software that will give you straight up bootable media/HD, since all the messy boot sectors, MBR and such. I know back in the days you could clone disks with Ghost (think Norton/Symantec have bougth that software now?). /Björn
  13. Ive had similar issues, and what fixed that problem was to remove/restore the preference file (http://forums.adobe.com/thread/358041?tstart=0). I was extremely skeptic that it would work, but it did. Apparently it can get corrupted or at least bogged down when you do upgrade over upgrade. As I said, I really didn't think it would change anything, but for me it fixed the slowdowns. Take a backup, and try it, its worth a shot. /Bjorn
  14. I know how the metering works with a 5dmkII, and I guess the same applies to the 7d. When using flash, the ETTL works either in Evaluative or Avarage mode. From the 7D manual p117 For normal flash exposures, set it to [Evaluative]. If [Average] is set, the flash exposure will be averaged for the entire metered scene as with an external metering flash. If I'm not mistaken, evaluative metering does take in the selected focus point into the equation. It should be fairly easy to test, just set it up as normal, lock focus, and take a shot with the focus point on something black, then move the focus point to something more white, and see if the exposure changed. I'm pretty sure it will. This all assumes that your in M-mode while doing the strobe shooting. /Björn
  15. I'm guessing you want fish swiming into the picture, not out of it (ei, trails of the fish behind it, rather then in front of it). /Björn
  16. I've been at Lumba Lumba twice last year (July 1 week, December 2 weeks). As people have pointed out, they have an awesome house reef, where you can potter around for 2h per dive if you want to (thats usually when my air runs out). Ask for the instructor Sunny, he'a P&S photographer and knows the reefs and all it fish (thumbsizeed frog fishs for instance) inside out. They have a few "more luxurious" bungalows, and a new built complex with cheaper rooms. If you get the bigger rooms, they all have big mandis to rinse and test your cameras in if you want to. Lots of electricity plugs (220v european style). The indonesians DMs on the boat are great too, and have been diving there for I don't know how many years. /Björn
  17. @xariatay: None at all! @everyone else : thank you! /Björn
  18. Hi all, I'm happy to say that I got the cover shot of this months issue of Diver. The shot is of Rajan the Elephant, and the story is about the dive with him and other diving around Andaman Island in India. I'm pretty stoked as this was my 3rd dive trip with my uw-housing. I bought my gear (Ikelite) in June 2009. The pictures on flickr /Björn
  19. Is it really that expensive? I'm guessing a lot of weight is in the batteries that you don't have to send along. I'm not in Australia, but in Sweden, but our postal service shipped my gear at about half the price UPS charges ( about $50 ). And that was both the housing and an DS160. /Björn
  20. I was in quite similar situation last summer. I went with the Ikelite solution, mostly based on cost. My major gripe with it is not lack of ergonomics (though to be fair I haven't tried any other housing out), but with the weight. Since I do all my diving abroad, and want to bring in in the carry on, its a major factor for me. Still, there is something irky paying more for the housing then the camera you are protecting, especially since housings come out new about every 1½ year. Ports and strobes can be carried over, but housing you need to get a new one, if you want to upgrade. Ikelite also has TTL, which for me was very nice. Still, when shooting wide you almost have to use manual anyway, but in macro its very nice. I got a DS161 to complement my DS160, mainly for the video lighting. (again, these strobes are heavier then most others, but fires fast and you only have one thing to charge). I also had to stop using my 16-35 2.8mkII, since the mkII was too wide for ikelites ports. The original should work though. I currently only use a 15mm FE and a 100mm 2.8USM macro. With this I don't use any diopters. I find the 15mm good for big stuff, and filming. I yet haven't got the hand of great wideangle shots yet. Regarding Ikelite service, I had my housing send in for service and upgrade, and it took less then 2 weeks to fix my strobe (for free!) service the back of the housing and changing the front of the housing with the new 4 locks system. This including shipping back and forth from Sweden. /Björn
  21. This sounds like what happened to me. The cable was not all the way in the hot shoe on the camera. The reason why you get a black image on FULL is because it dumps a full flash on the pre-flash (used in TTL), and then don't have the time to flash again when the normal flash should come. To get an Ikelite to do proper manual, you need to press both <- and -> on the camera housing, so the diode under M lights up. My advice would be to make sure the hot-shoe is all the way in, and stays that (I have a tendency to push the top of the camera against the inside of the housing, nudging the cable a bit out of the hotshoe). /Björn
  22. Just wanted to chime in and say I just got my ordered delivered by UPS (they tried to deliver it last Friday), I mailed them the go-ahead on the shipping details last Wednesday. Quite snappy for a delivery to Sweden! (eh, and the non-local excuse was that my divestore doesn't carry Stix-floats). This was bought with a non-US creditcard btw, if anyone still wasn't sure if that was OK or not. /Björn
  23. The program now saves in both the GPS-tag and in Lightroom readable XMP:Subject (shows up as keywords). It adds the keyword depth:xx.x feet/meter to the currently used keywords. There is an option to choose between metric and imperial. /Björn
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