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About paulwhng

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  1. Does anyone know whether the Nikonos RS O rings are made from: Silicone - which requires that Floro-slicone grease (e.g. blue capped silicone from Sea & Sea or Molykote FS1292); OR Non silicone or Black Nitrile (NBR) - which requires regular silicone grease like Molykote 111 OR petroluem gel My thinking is that it is probably Silicone O rings (as it is Orange in colour as the old non silicone O rings used to be black). But I have since got confused because in Jim Church's book on the Nikonos system he explicitly said that no grease with silicone should be used on the Nikonos V or RS's O rings. As far as I am aware, if the O ring is silicone both Floro-silicone or regular silicone should work. Can someone help clarify? Thanks Paul NG
  2. Thanks for all your replies - much appreciated. Got to go look for a cake tin box .... thanks Alex. Paul
  3. What's the best way of travelling with a DOME port (I have a SUBAL FE-2 dome). There seem to two schools of thought - although both involve checking in the DOME port: 1. Carry on all underwater housing gear (but not the DOME port because it is too big but put it into the usual pelican case and check that in). Are there any carry on bags which could accomodate a DOME port and a full set of underwater housing gear (assuming you have a compact Ikelite or SUBAL D70/350 housing setup - total gear includes housing, Dome, two Innon strobes, one straight port 60mm and a couple of arms/cables plus camera and two/three lens - not talking about the huge Seacams or Aquaticas) 2. Carry on the camera/lens only and check in all underwater housing gear (including DOME port) Are there any check in cases which can house the DOME port upright rather than having is rest on flat on its back (which takes up just too much space)? Thoughts appreciated. Paul NG
  4. Need some advice on dome ports. I am heading out to shoot some (photographically) sharks in the Bahamas and was hoping to use the following lens: 12-24mm F4 17-55mm F2.8 Subal suggests that I get a gigantic and very expensive FE2 domeport and the relevant extension tubes for these ports. I am wondering whether I could use the more compact and less expensive SWB dome ports taking into consideration the smaller DX size of the CCD of the D70 Nikon? Please advise also on what diopters I should place in front of the lens (if any) and the relevant extension tubes if I were to use the SWB ports because Subal provides no such information? Kind regards Paul NG
  5. Thanks guys. I think it can't hurt to have the iTTL circuitary built in - as we can always switch the strobe to manual power control (I have a Z220 Inon). Paul
  6. Could anyone advise whether the D70s can be used in the SUBAL housing designed for the D70? I understand the only difference between the two cameras is the larger LCD screen - will we be able to see the whole (larger) LCD screen in the housing? Also has anyone had any problems with the single clip closing mechanism on the Subal D70 housing? Also has anyone used this TTL converter before? any thoughts?http://www.heinrichsweikamp.net Kind regards Paul NG
  7. Just checking- what you mean by practically free? I have a full Aquatica set up - you can see it in the March issue of UWPmag.com (pic attached). The camera is now gone so I am happy to sell it at 2000 sterling including the Sealux 80DX strobe housing with the strobe.
  8. Great articles both of you (including Matetes). Just two questions: 1. I looked at one at the start of the year and was interested in the claim that it was suppose to be able to be operated with one hand - in the strap - but when I tested it on land, the strap tends to stretch and it was hard to grip the smooth egg shaped surface especially without any finger grips. Do any of you have a problem operating it with one hand (assuming strobes in the right place) underwater whilst holding on to a rock for balance? 2. Can you see the whole image from the viewfinder? I am still not clear although I gather that the image from the magnifier is not the best? Paul
  9. Does anyone have any advise in relation to the use of both SB105 and SB 104 together in the same rig. I have a D100 in an Aquatica housing. I know that there are a few differences: 1. SB 104 is almost twice as heavy as SB 105 - but presumably in the water they are both just slightly negative? 2. SB 104 has a higher guide number as SB 105 - but presumably the difference is not great enough for me to see the difference? Any advise on how I can adapt my rig to use these two together will be greatly appreciated. Do I need to add weights onto the side of the SB 105 to make it the same weight as the SB 104? Do I need to position the SB 105 a further distance (how far back) then the SB 104 when lighting an object? I am heading to the Galapagos in two weeks so won't have time to test these two together so I am quite desperate for some advise. Kind regards Paul NG
  10. Interested but just two questions: 1. Bouyancy I tried the housing in the Bahamas two years ago and felt that with the dome port that it was extremely bouyant and tended to want to face up. What modifications have you done to it to make it less bouyand and more neutral? 2. Battery drain It also seems that once the camera is attached to the housing the battery is continually drained (i.e. until the camera is removed the camera has to stay on). How long have you been able to keep the camera going before having to change batteries (6 hours etc.)? This is relevant because in addition to battery drain from taking pictures there is apparently a battery drain from the electronics of the housing - so in order to avoid the battery dying in the middle of the dive do you change batteries on everydive? Paul
  11. I have a Aquatica (built like a tank) - fully functional with the bonus of having two bulkheads (i.e. you can use twin strobes with separate cables) a full assortment of ports and even a Sealux 80DX housing for TTL operations. I think I have advertised it in Issue 21 of Underwater photography -http://www.whywedive.com/index.php How much were you thinking of spending? Paul NG
  12. Interested in any subal housing for either the D1x, D100 or D70 (preferred). Prefer if sold together with wideangle port and straight port and gears. Will pay a reasonable amount - above ebay. Please write if you are thinking of upgrading and selling existing gear.
  13. I currently have a D100 in an Aquatica housing. However there are pretty good deals going with the much smaller and lighter Huggyfot housing - contact Huggy in Belgium they can explain more. However this weekend I had the chance to handle the D70 housing made of Delrin (which was super light) and it is a really pretty housing whichmakes me wonder whether to change to a D70. The D70 brand new currently is the same cost as a second hand D100. So if you are starting out you might want to consider a D70 rather than the older D100. Most housings for the D70 have benefited from the faults of previous D100 and are lighter (helps with the flight weight allowances). Otherwise, I agree with previous posts that probably one of the best housings are those from Subal (which are a lot more expensive then the Huggy). And only the Subal D70 housing has the "grand viewer" which magnifies the image you get from the camera. Paul
  14. Thanks for the input. I got a response from Hugyfot that they are even supporting this housings in Asia (Hong Kong) which is new. Please let us have your report on the D70 Housing - the Hugyfot is no doubt the prettiest housing in the market and their website (new this week) seems to suggest that it is business as usual? I love the fact that it can be operated by one hand - so will probably trade in my Aquatica (which is really an anchor) for the their remaining D100 housings - in fact they even apparently make D2h housings although it is a bit more expensive. The viewfinder seems fine/huge - you mentioned that the Seacam/Subal one is better - do you mean after you attach the magnifiers? Paul
  15. I was thinking of taking buying the D100 Hugyfot housings - has anyone used this housing - do you recommend it? How is the viewfinder? I noticed it has only one syn bulkhead. Is that a problem? Are other people's port compatible with the housing? (e.g.Aquatica)? Kind regards Paul NG
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