Scubatooth

its official its on DPreviews site now http://www.dpreview.com/news/2012/03/02/Canon-5D-Mark-III

I know the think tank bags are pretty popular in genral for hauling set ups, but what is the concensous on mopuntainsmith boarding pass for transporting UW rig?

here is the list of wrenches i keep for my 5DmkII housing. I went and bought wiha black and red handles hex keys from sears. 5/64" 1/16" 3/16" 1/4" .050"

Cal - If you were in the US i would reccomend that you process the B&W film by Dr5 (www.dr5.com) labs in colorado. Its a process that takes B&W neg film and the end result is a positive. My favorite B&W films are Ilford Delta 100 (especially in DR5) as the tonal range/contrast, Dmax is excellent. Other reccomendations would be Ilford PanF 50, Tmax 100. I have has many prints .66m x 1.00m (~24x36) from 35mm DR5 slides and normal negs. I hadnt printed bigger then that as of right now but my lab is limited to a max of 45" by what ever long you want.

I can frog kick, helicopter, and back up all in my force fins (I use Pros, Flying Force, extras and accelerators) without a problem. I use my FF more then i do any other fin i have owned, and to the point I really dont want to dive a blade any longer then my extras which are shorter then quattros/jets. Yes they take some getting used to (and not one or two dives, but like around 10-15 before i got comfortable) but now its not a issue. its really not a full flutter kick (at least with the originals and pros) but a kick from the knee down and only between say 0 to 90 degrees as anything more then that is wasted energy being directed straight down. Pfuller- I do something similar to what your talking about alot i have one foot that is in a frog kick position while the other is doing a from the knee down flutter kick and i can hold position very well. CFWA, Macro etc its not a issue IMHO & FWIW

i dont have exactly what your looking for but i do have a full fisheye tray (two handles, carry handle and ball mounts). I have a 2 inon 220 strobes, but your looking for 240s

I use a pair of Ike DS161 on my 5DmkII. I also have a couple of older Inon 220(S&F) that i use for off camera slave use.

the 10-22 lens is a EFS lens and not designed for the a FF sensor. the equivalent lens is the 16-35 in a full frame camera. I have a aquatica housing for sale that could be used for surf photo/video.

Housing was used on one dive trip (5 dives) before i hurt my back. Housing is virtually brand new, and comes with the std viewfinder. Also comes with a o-ring kit. The housing is currently enroute to Aquatica for service(hydrophone cord replacement and general check.) and can either be shipped from Aquatica or from me when service is complete. $2500

seems like visable dust is a popular product. they have a number of kits. what would be reccomended for cleaning the sensor on a 5DmkII, 7D and 50D

Well the hardest part in all of the storage of my images was getting to the point where they were organized and cataloged, that was why i didnt delete any, this also plays into why i dont delete them now. Well let me modify that, I only delete the ones that have no hope, like way out of focus or are corrupted. Organization took the better part of a year as some images i have 6-9 copies of across multiple drives, when i finally condensed things down, built a DAM protocol, and naming conventions it was much more manageable, mostly due to LR2. Now there is a importation process to ensure everything is backed up. Then once there on the serve is when i go through images I rank them with 0-5 stars; 0 being duds to 5 being cream of the crop(<1-2% of all my images, and which most have made my portfolio), with most falling into the 3star range. Then within LR is use the color flags, and tags in the file name to denote where a image is in the process. FWIW

After downloading images that i shot recently I have noticed that I now have a number of dust spots on the sensor that werent there before. It probably was from me not being careful when switching between lens. Those spots are reminding me of days not to long ago where I had to do spot removal on scans that had just been done on a CS9000 or a Hidelburg. In the past i have used a static cling brush and a bulb blower and gotten pretty good results, but Im looking for a better solution. Looking through Bh Photo I see there are a number of different options/products on the market and I was wondering what others where using and the results you were getting.. Thanks in Advance

I keep all of the images i shoot, no matter what. The reasoning behind it as the software has progressed the images in the past that were looking to be unsalvagable are now able to be saved (content aware filter on CS5 being a big one), some arent portfolio worthy but memorable from that time/event/trip. Plus its a good way of learning from old mistakes so as not to repeat them. HDD space was never a issue as HDD have gotten less expensive over the years. I just keep upgrading the harddrives and or servers as I shoot more and more photos. Im glad lightroom is around now as it keeps thumbnail images of everything in the catalog so that i can be able to go through all the images i have shot at any point in time without having to dig out that particular harddrive (if its not on the server or offsite back up) or project book if it was shot on film.

Eric Im going to be at the show, and could help you some of the time, and from the floorplan your just up the aisle from the other booth i will be assisting with. PM me if you need to. Dan

Back injury still has me out and its looking like Im going to be out for a while longer, and diving for the year isnt likely to happen. Both Strobes are in good shape, only showing the normal cosemtic marks from normal use. 1 is a Inon 220S (No focus light) - there isnt a cover for the sync port. it was lost along the way somewhere. $350 the second one is a Z220F (Focus light). everything works and all settings and power cables. $400 Also have two nikonos style sync cords. One is just out of the package and the other used but still works. Both cords have been tested to work 100/75 New/Used Would prefer to sell all together ($850) but will consider splitting things up. Buyer is responsible for shipping and transaction fees (paypal accepted but buyer pays transaction fee). Items to be shipped via USPS Priority mail with insurane and tracking. email is the preferred contact. GMail ID is roadkillerdesigns.