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Posts posted by scubag

  1. Dustin,


    Check out the Olympus website for info on how to send your lense back but here are the addresses of their USA service centers.




    Olympus America Inc.

    Consumer Products Group

    400 Rabro Drive

    Hauppauge, NY 11788-4258

    Attn: Repair Department


    Fax: (631) 881-6580

    9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. ET


    Olympus America Inc.

    Consumer Products Group

    10805 Holder Street Suite 170

    Cypress, CA 90630-5145

    Attn: Repair Department


    Fax: (714) 229-1652

    8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. PT

  2. Sheila,


    If all you want to do is point and shoot, the sylus is an good camera with the UR-pro filter. I have 3 of them in a rental program. The problems include: No exposure control outside of program auto, macro is 8" minimum, no way to turn off the camera between dives w/o opening the housing (the camera powers down after 3 minutes but the battery is dead in 3 hours even in power down mode, flash is severely underpowered. The plus is: its small (fits in a big bcd pocket), it shoots good photos (just hold it steady as slow shutter speeds w/o flash can be a problem), it's simple.


    My recommendation: if you want to play with exposure buy either the Olympus 750UZ (4 mp), 5050 or 5060 (5 mp). The 5050 uses 4-AA batteries but has the 35mm wide angle lens, the 5060 has a 28 mm wide agle lense but uses a proprietory battery. All 3 of these are larger (no bcd pocket) and require more reading to master all the controlls, but worth it in the long run.



  3. Eric,


    Sorry I've never dove a CCR, but to a SCR the dolphin is simple, easy to set up and you'll find many livaboards and resorts that have them in rental and have sonfolime or equiv on hand. Mayby just bring your own breathing loop on a trip. It's a good place to start your training even if you eventually want to go the CCR route.



  4. OK here's my 2 cents worth. Some of you guys have already hit the mark though...


    - Consumer digicams max at 8mp from Sony, Olympus, Nikon, more high end glass with ED, rare earth elements in their lenses, faster lenses with larger (F1.4-F2.0) and smaller (F16-F22) aperatures and wider angle zooms (20-100mm equiv) a macro mode you don't have to push a button to get to and a real 1 button / 1 push manual white balance capability.

    - Pro DSLRs max higher: Canon 16mp, Nikon 11mp, Fuji 11mp, Kodak 20mp, Consumer DSLRs get smaller and lighter

    - Foveon does a full frame X3 chip with 22mp total (but nobody buys it)

    - Medium Format self contained digital backs hit 30 mp from Kodak, Fuji

    - More consumer digicams have oem housings (Nikon?)

    - Sea & Sea builds 5mp consumer housed camera similar to Motormarine 3 w/ wide angle lense and big viewfinder.

    - Inon builds accessory u/w ringlight strobe unit

    - Overseas housing makers move towards a universal DSLR housing size and change control layout as new cameras come to market (Just like Ikelite is doing with their compact D100 / 300d housing) with electronic comtrols in the handgrip and a 1394 / USB output plug on the housing.

    - someone (ANYONE!) makes a compact, bright, lightweight modeling light that works and is shutter activated with a nikon DSLR.


    Someone take away my keyboard before I really get rolling.



  5. James,


    It will be interesting to see what sensor Nikon chooses for the D70, we can not automatically assume that they will use the same sensor as the D100, since it would have been easy to anounce such a detail. It would be nice to see a move to this new LBCAST technology in future cameras instead of rehashing older (D100?) technology. I guess only time will tell. Hopefully they will be showing working cameras (production) at PMA and not just mock-ups.



  6. Robert,


    Good Luck with your computer. I think you would have better luck through the local dealer or through your original dealer in Hong Kong. My understanding is that the recall is through the dealer, not with SP direct. We as a SP dealer worked very hard to track down all our customers that had purchased one of the smartcom computers, and even paid any shipping costs to get their recalled computers to SP and back to them. On the units we sold, the microbubble suppression settings were defaulted to level 0, no suppression. As an instructor, my personal experience was that even the mildest suppression setting of level 1 was too convervative for my taste.


    Quoted from SP Asia Pacific recall page:


    Replacement Program


    UWATEC will replace your Smart PRO or Smart COM computer with a new one within ninety (90) days or sooner. In order to obtain a replacement, please contact your nearest local authorized Uwatec dealer or Distributor. Once we have received your computer from our dealer or distributor, we will begin processing your replacement order. To find an authorized dealer nearest you, please contact us with your contact details at smart_exchange@scubaproasiapacific.com or submit your contact information to us below.


    Good Luck



  7. I've been using a Nitek 3 for several years (they are discontinued and last I heard Dive Rite was really dealing on them to dealers). I love the computer, never a problem. The lcd is big but the digits are small, dim and difficult to read for my older eyes (it's time to add the bifocal to my mask). It's also big and bulky compared to other computers, and if you don't need the gas switch capability, go with something smaller, lighter and easier to read.


    What ever you buy... Buy it from your local "AUTHORIZED" dealer and make sure you can bring it back to them if you have a problem. Most major brands do not allow dealers to mail order or sell online. Any one who sells online is not an authorized dealer.


    As I work for a Scubapro / Uwatec dealer my understanding is that the problems with smartcoms were both software and hardware (the quick disconect) and that they have all been resolved. Heads rolled at Uwatec. While they were addressing the problem Scubapro USA offered all our customers the option of waiting for the fix, a refund, or to upgrade to the more expensive / air integrated hoseless model. Either way all our customers received their replacements some time ago, and no further problems have surfaced.



  8. My guess is that the spots are either moisture (humidity) or fungus (mold, mildew). I've had problems with Nikon SLR lenses that have developed very similar spots over the years. Lenses can be cleaned and even re-coated by the manufacturers, but the expense is usually not worth it compared to the cost of a new lense. If you feel it is starting to show up in your images, send in the camera for service and get a service quote. Perhaps it's time to upgrade your camera?



  9. Hi Folks,


    Well, since I've been posting for a week or so I might as well check in. My name is Doug and I am a dive instructor (PADI Course Director) living and working on St. Croix US Virgin Islands for the past 5 years. I learned to dive in San Diego in 1973 and have been an Instructor since 1986. I was a serious landscape and studio photographer earlier in life and have shot 2 1/4, 4x5 and 8x10 film platforms bothin the studio and in the backwoods. My u/w photography started with a Nikonos II camera and a bag of flashbulbs, but I've owned and shot u/w Nikonos 3, 4, 5's, Hasselblad SW, Nikon F2 and F3t ( which I still shoot once in a while in a Tussey housing), a Beauleau 16mm movie camera and for the past 3 years a slew of digital cameras which include a Canon S-300, Olympus Stylus 400, 750UZ, 5050, and Nikon CP-5000 with more strobes than I know what to do with. If I could get my Sinar 4x5 with a digital back and Schneider 75mm in a housing, I'd sell my truck to make it happen (do they make housings for Speedotron studio strobes?). Or not... this year will probably see mee upgrading to a DSLR though.


    Over the years I'm been fortunate to live in or travel to Mexico, Belize, Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala, Costa Rica, Panama, Fiji, PNG, Cayman, Cuba (can I say this and not have homeland security after me?) and at leasta dozen other Countries. Still wanting to get to many places, but Cocos is my next trip.


    Currently I work for a dive Company "St Croix Ultimate Bluewater Adventures" teaching IDC's and other specialty programs (photo, wreck. nitrox etc) and diving as much as I can, as well as renting Olympus digitals cameras to the masses. Last year Rodales ranked our shop #2 in the world and staff #1 in the world, so obviously the hard work is paying off.


    I am enjoying being a forum member, and have already added a few posts of my own. James you and Eric must have a lot of patience to moderate some of these forums, or else a weird sence of humor. I look forward to adding my 2 cents worth.



  10. I just purchased and received an Addonics MFR which is a CD-R, CD-RW burner, DVD player with a flash card slot on the end and a nicad battery pack that fits on the end. Just drop in a blank CD-R, insert your cameras flash card ( I use a 1 gig microdrive, 512 mb CF card and Olympus Xd cards with an Xd-CF adapter) and press 1 button twice. It burns a 256 mb Xd card to CD-R in less than 15 minutes. It also can burn multiple cards to 1 CD-R. So far I've burned 6 multicard CD-Rs without having to charge the battery, which took about 5 hours the first time I charged it. It came with a case, charger, tv cord, and USB cord. So far no problems. www.addonics.com



  11. Thanks Dave,


    46mm was the answer I needed. I actually went out and bought a small caliper and measured the threads a couple days ago. You can also buy direct from UR-Pro at www.urprofilters.com I ordered 3 for my Stylus 400 / PT-016 rental cameras and they over-nighted them to me down here in the USVI. Great Service from both UR-Pro and Fed-Ex.


    Thanks Again,



  12. Like Karl, I also use an Ikelite housing for my 5000. I liked being able to use the Nikon 19mm, but Subal, Aquatica and Sea & Sea also give you that option. The Ikelite is a bit bulky compared to the others and You'll definately build up your right forearm and wrist from one handing it, but the clear acrylic is a plus and for me the idea of having strobes, arms and housing all from the same supplier were a plus, only one company to deal with and Ikelite has always treated me well. This is the 4th Ikelite housing I've owned over the past 20 years. The only truly inovative feature I liked on the other housings was the ROC controller built into the Light & Motion housing, but I didn't want to go for wet add on lenses.



  13. Hey Chris,


    Set it up any way you want. I use Mode 1 for wide angle - man exposure - internal strobe off - external strobe on - fixed aperature, Mode 2 for Available Light - Aperature Priority - internal / external strobes off, manual white balance. I would play with the camera a bit more to find out what works for the types of images you like to shoot before setting up the modes.


    A good friend keeps his mode 3 set up for movies, just in case something big and fast flys by.


    Good Luck,



  14. Jim,


    I agree with you completely, ignorance is probably the culprit. If you have ever read and believed the travel articles in some dive magazines, you have been had. Many dive magazines base feature articles on advertising contracts (buy x number of full page adds and receive 2 feature articles per year) Some travel writers conduct phone interviews with dive operators and then write 1st person "I was there" articles for a destination they have never been to, and the use photos supplied by the operator for general coverage of shops and facilities and stock photos for the fish close-ups and walls. When I was living and working in Mexico we had such articles writen about our operation listing dive sites that didn't exist, and marine life encounters that didn't happen, even over our protests to the magazine.


    Buyer beware, if it sounds too good to be true....



  15. James and Gang,


    I would love to see your tests u/w. Since I own and use both DS-50 and DS 125 strobes which is right for you can vary from dive to dive. I use the DS-50's for macro and fish portraits with double segment 6" arms. The small size allows me to get into tight spaces and easily control light placement with a homemade scrim (a shade if you will) The biggest problem with the 50's is slow (3-4+ sec) recycle time. The DS-125's have a much wider, even beam angle, perfect for my Cp-5000 with Nikkor 19mm lens, plus the modeling lights and faster (1 sec) recycle time, but are bulkier and heavier (negatively buoyant) I fixed some buoyancy issues by wrapping the strobe heads and double segment 12" Ikelite arms with wraps of 7mm neoprene which I was given by Body Glove.


    Like I said before, which is best is all personal preference. If I could only choose 1 strobe though, it would be the DS-125.



  16. Hello Again,


    YES I love my Diverite Transpac II, although I prefer a bit more lift than the travel wings offer (especially in warm water with a thin wetsuit) Add a pair of small weight pockets and you're set. The Mares BCD looked a bit bulky on their website. I played with a new Scubapro travel BC at DEMA that is similar to the Knight Hawk but much slimmer and lots of lift, could be worth trying, but it's not on their website yet.


    Good Luck,



  17. Peter,


    Thanks for your concern for my students, since I spent most of time u/w teaching Instructors, photographers, and Nitrox students, the occational "student photo w/ turtle" or "photo student taking a photo of turtle" usually doesn't get in the way. This is why I don't carry my CP-5000 w/ dual strobe setup with me when I have "students".



  18. Jola,


    My only experience with the C-5060 was a hands on at DEMA, but we use Stylus 400's and C-5050's in rental, and I shoot with a Nikon Cp-5000. Yes shutter lag was noticably less. The nicad issue doesn't bother me, our battery chagers are 50' from the boat dock so I can get off the morning 2-tank dive, change nicads and Xd cards and be ready for the afternoon 2-tank with time to spare.


    Good Luck with your options,



  19. Thanks for the info, I played with a C-5060 at DEMA but they did not have a PT-020 to show me. The camera had a great feel and a much less shutter lag than my CP-5000, but with the Ikelite case and strobes its just too bulky to have on me when I'm diving with students. So I was thinking that the C-5060 / PT-020 combo might be great for natural light grab shots.


    Thanks again,



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