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davehicks last won the day on January 26

davehicks had the most liked content!

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About davehicks

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    Manta Ray
  • Birthday 04/25/1967

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    Seattle, WA USA

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  • Camera Model & Brand
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS-161's

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  1. I have one with the same design and it works perfectly well. Just make sure you adjust it so the the lens sits at "9pm" when flipped back rather than "6pm". You don't want the lens dragging below the camera.
  2. I also shoot the MF-1 and use a Nauticam trigger. I build my own cables and used this 2mm fiber from Ebay. It works flawlessly with the BS MF-1. About $30 for 5 meters, buy the 2mm diameter option. 5m Black Plastic Pmma End Glow Fiber Optic Cable Light Inner Diameter 1mm-6mm | eBay
  3. Where are you located? In the US you don't need to go through a dealer. You can send it directly to a Nauticam service center. I think I used Reef Photo the last time I serviced my Nauticam. Compared to the cost of even a used Nuaticam, it's a good deal. I serviced a NA-D800 about 5 years ago and it was $320 labor + $180 parts. I then sold that housing 2 years ago for $1300. Lots of leaks might be user error, but I've had small drips and drop coming through controls in the past. Most often the shutter. Wear on the o-rings will eventually result in a leak, even with good attention to proper cleaning.
  4. Send it in for service. You'll get all new orings for buttons, and a pressure test to certify it. After frying a camera, I would not dive that housing again with out a full service. At 4-5 years old it clearly is past due.
  5. I am very happy with the Kraken 2800 or 3500 focus / video light. I use this on my camera as both a Focus and Primary light. A few things I like about this: Swappable battery (but not a standard cell unfortunately) Two buttons make it simple two switch modes and cycle power level within each mode. (Some lights do this with one button which is frustrating and error prone) Very bright in both Flood and Spot Red light mode is great for Snoot shooting so you can see the aiming spot Kraken Hydra 3500+S Video Light (opticaloceansales.com)
  6. Have your asked Ikelite about getting it fixed? They are great with their service and might fix it for what you'll pay for a used one.
  7. The Backscatter Miniflash uses standard 18650 batteries. A great many dive lights and other devices use this battery so it's actually pretty convenient. If you need a charger I have at least 3 for these cells I don't need.
  8. I have one of those 10bar laser snoots. Make an offer. I'll get you a picture.
  9. Backscatter quickly replaced my broken MF-1 strobe. I mailed it in on a Monday and had a working replacement back in my hands on Friday that week. I've taken it on three dives this week and it seems to be working properly. Thank you to Backscatter for providing quick service 100% covered under warranty.
  10. The Active D-Lighting only applies to JPG images. If you shoot RAW a version of the Jpg gets embedded in the Raw file. When you load the Raw into Lightroom it tosses out the brighter jpg preview that was tweaked by D-Lighting. So now it's up to you to adjust your image to your liking. That is the trade off for shooting Raw. If you don't want this behavior then just shoot JPG. Many people prefer to do their own adjustment to the Raw image as you get more data and fidelity than Jpg allows.
  11. I've had success polishing spotty glass flat ports with Novus polish #2 (fine scratch) and a soft cloth. It has enough grit the clean the glass and does not seem to scratch it. I tried a bunch of other things without luck so figured it was worth a try. Seemed to work pretty well.
  12. I just hit this same issue with my Backscatter MF-1. I've probably used it about 50-60 dives with no issues until now. Now it show a "flash recycle charging circuit error" based on the status light signal. I'll call them on Monday and send it in for service or replacement. I love this strobe and snoot, so I hope they cover the service for free. I can't find any warranty information on their website or the manual, but it's under one year old. Purchased 3/31/2020. I'll update with my experience.
  13. It is not a problem if Lightroom renders the photo darker. What is happening is that the JPG Preview (which is embedded in the RAW file) created by the camera with adjustments like Active-D-Lighting, etc (as mentioned previously) is tossed out in favor of the unprocessed RAW image. You need to make some of those same changes now to the RAW image. If you are not familiar with editing in LR, just hit the Auto button to start. (Develop Mode / Basic Panel) This will balance the image based on the histogram, which is a good start most of the time. It's a lot like what the in-camera JPG D-Lighting does. It almost always makes an underwater image too bright, but you can then pull down the brightness to where it needs to be.
  14. The current Ikelite battery backs are NiMH. They did use NiCad many years ago, but switched to NiMH with the exception of the brief experiment with LiON. If Ikelite is still offering the replacement of LiON for NiMH I would take advantage of that. If a manufacturer is going to that much trouble to swap them out I would take the hint.
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