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davehicks last won the day on January 11

davehicks had the most liked content!

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About davehicks

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    Eagle Ray
  • Birthday 04/25/1967

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    Seattle, WA USA

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  • Camera Model & Brand
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS-161's

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  1. I have one very similar that I've used for years. It work just fine, but can be a slight annoyance if you flip it off and get really close to the bottom. At more than $200 less than the Nauticam, etc models this may be worth it to you. I use mine pretty often and have not seen a good reason to replace it with a "better" more expensive model.
  2. Get a strobe. Start with one and begin to learn. You will not be happy with your photos otherwise. With a bit of practice you'll start to take some pictures that will be really great. Add a second strobe later on when you are ready for more dramatic shots.
  3. If you are buying new get the Pros. The only tradeoff is the Pro's will only be good for something like 500 recharge cycles vs 2000 for the white eneloops. The Pro's will deliver more flashes per charge which is your goal.
  4. I would not pay a premium for a D800e vs D800, especially for UW use. The difference between the two is pretty subtle anyway and I've never noticed any appreciable benefits in years of looking at the photos. Get the best condition D800 you can find and you'll be very happy. I shot my D800 for over 6 years and finally moved to a D850 in early 2019. I sold my housing but still use the D800 when the 850 is in the housing. It's a great camera even today and takes photos of similar quality to the 850. It just can't take as many photos as fast as the 850 due to a smaller, slower buffer.
  5. You can cut off the hood. I have seen on the Tokina website that they sell this a version of this same lens with no hood for FX cameras. People have successfully cut it off themselves with a dremell tool. Alternatively if you zoom out a bit to 12-13mm it should no longer vignette on FX.
  6. Couple of thoughts: Probably don't travel with fully charged lithium ion batteries. Make sure an inspector does not try open your Sola. It's not (without tools) designed to be opened. I've heard of several Sola being damaged this way. Using the safe bag is a great idea. I just bought one of these myself.
  7. Save yourself some trouble and get comfortable using manual strobe power. TTL is more trouble than it's worth and will end up limiting your creative potential. It doesn't work well at all for wide angle, and your macro shots will be uniformly bright with less shadow and definition than you might achieve with manual control.
  8. Give the DIY approach a try. You can just buy 30 feet of 2 or 3mm end glow fiber optic cable on amazon or ebay for $20 and be set for years. There are a few threads on the board with details.
  9. Bite the bullet and get the MicroMesh. It will make the dome look like new again! It only looks scary, it's really pretty satisfying to see the results after the initial shock of the frosted dome on the first pass.
  10. Of course you can always put a label or two on the insides of your housing and ports. I try to label most of my dive gear with standard Dymo label tape. Camera and lenses too. Sometimes i'll apply a strip of Scotch clear tape on top for extra protection depending on the surface. Silver Sharpie for things that don't adhere to the label well.
  11. Let's recap and summarize. Q: How do I rescue my files from Lightroom when I don't want to pay Adobe any longer or have been locked out of my Account? A: Step 1) Install Lightroom free trial on a new PC (which was the OP's situation) Step 2) Import your old LR catalog and turn on XMP file generation Step 3) Uninstall the free Lightroom trial software Step 4) Install the totally free Adobe Bridge app (or Photoshop, etc) and open any file you every processed in Lightroom with edits intact thanks to the XMP sidecar files.
  12. I am detecting a little bit of internet hostility here. You present a problem you frustratingly can't solve on an internet forum. People start offering suggestions. You complain that the suggestions offered assume that you are a lowly amateur. (I am sure you are not) BTW, it is discussions like this that helped myself and many others to learn UWP and Post Processing. Just because you know a thing does not mean that others in the audience might learn something. Then you finally solve the problem by doing what absolutely should have been step #1 - Calling Adobe's 1-800 Support center. This is just poor form and etiquette. Don't go soliciting for assistance and then lash out at those who attempted to help. Nobody was rude to you are talked down to you. I am glad you were able to resolve your problems.
  13. No one should fear getting cut off from LR. The XMP sidecar files that can optionally be created for every single image in LR are imported by other apps and reflect your edits. Adobe Bridge (a Free image management and viewing tool) can read the XMP files to incorporate your LR edits to a RAW file for example. Bridge can then bluk convert/export to JPG, Tiff, etc as needed. So the idea that your LR files, edits, or catalog might be lost is exaggerated. There is a simple solution to alleviate this concern. https://photography.tutsplus.com/tutorials/how-to-use-lightroom-edits-outside-of-lightroom--cms-21776
  14. For someone who is not a Lightroom user you sure know a lot about how you think people fail to use it effectively. Seriously if you don't export to jpg then why did you take the photos? If course everyone does that! And the images are not locked up if you can't buy the apps. Worst case you install the trial version and have a month to take care of business. Finally you can save xmp sidebars for every image and then Photoshop or other apps can read your edited Raw images.
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