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Everything posted by cninsd

  1. I haven't been diving in many months so I'm finally giving up my UW camera gear to recoup some costs. I've listed these on eBay as I don't have a sales/buyer reputation on the forum, and wasn't sure if people would be comfortable buying from me here. Item links: Nauticam NA-EM5 underwater housing for Olympus OM-D EM-5 (includes ball joint and hand strap): http://www.ebay.com/itm/331279885339?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Nauticam Flat Port 56 for Olympus 14-42mm & 9-18mm lens + zoom gear + Red Filter http://www.ebay.com/itm/331279884857?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Ultralight TR-DM tray + Ultralight AC-H Handle with Ball http://www.ebay.com/itm/331279888943?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Three Ultralight AC-CSF New Style Clamps http://www.ebay.com/itm/331279891289?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Sea & Sea YS-110 Strobe http://www.ebay.com/itm/331279896881?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 StiX 9" Strobe Arm With 3.5 Jumbo Floats (SX-309) http://www.ebay.com/itm/331279901103?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  2. I've had an Olympus OM-D EM-5 for a couple of years, but lately it has been acting up in two different ways: 1. Frequently the very first picture taken after startup is very under exposed, or completely black. It is like the shutter isn't timed correctly. Subsequent shots are mostly OK. 2. The shutter button is getting very flaky. Frequently it doesn't register half or full pushes, and I have to wiggle my finger to get it to take a photo. Does anyone have any experience sending their Olympus OMD in for service with similar issues? It looks like the minimum I will spend is about $200 for service, so I want to make sure the results are good before I invest a lot of cash in an older camera (and I'll probably end up selling it soon anyway..). Thoughts? Thanks! Chris
  3. Hi oskar, Correct, there is a WB setting in DNG (and in other RAW formats like CR2). My understanding is that the initial WB setting in the DNG is set by the camera when it takes the photo. As I said before, in my experience, the WB on the JPG is the same as the WB on the DNG file when I load it with ACR. As you said, not all settings are transferred to the DNG. As far as I know the sliders on the DX-1G for in-camera sharpening, saturation, and contrast are only applied to the JPG files, and not the DNG files. Once you make adjustments to the DNG in a program like ACR, it stores those development settings with the file (or in the case of CR2, a sidecar file).
  4. Hi oskar, I'm still working on my strobe workflow I did really well with the camera & available light, but I've found adding the strobe in to be a pretty steep learning curve. Typically I'm using A 2.5 and -.7 AE, strobe in manual mode. Depending on the scene and level of reflection I'll play with mostly just the strobe power to get the right level for a shot. Occasionally I'll have to drop the AE to -2 if the scene is getting blown out by the strobe and I don't have the diffuser with me. Here are some of my newest photos, taken during a night dive: http://chrisnelson.ca/gallery/2008/06/21_v...int_night_dive/ As you can see I've got some issues with hot spots from my dive light. I need to get a vid light or a focus light + another strobe eventually.
  5. lrossel is correct. One of the benefits with using RAW is that you can change the WB after the fact and not lose any quality. That said, I find that opening a RAW file in most editors will automatically load the WB that the camera had set at the time of taking the photo - this should be the same WB that was used to create the JPG. I know photoshop/adobe camera raw does this, and I seem to remember lightroom doing this as well. Do you have lightroom set to auto tune photos in any way? If so, it might be adjusting WB. Regarding setting the white balance, yes, you need to use a gray or white object to set WB to. I'm lazy - I just find a white object in the scene after when editing the photo in Adobe Camera RAW, then set the WB reading off of that. Regarding time limits for exposure, I haven't noticed that, but I primarily am using A. What modes are you finding that limit?
  6. I would think it work just fine using a vid light & strobe, I've thought about doing the same thing for night dive photography. The alternative is buying a focus light, but I always wonder how much it changes your exposure. The only thing you need to check is to make sure strobe and the vid light both have a similar color temp. Otherwise you will be stuck with managing two temps in the same photo. I sent some of these vids in a PM already, but figured some others on the board might want to take a look. These were taken free diving: http://chrisnelson.ca/gallery/2007/11/02/M0010531.FLV.html http://chrisnelson.ca/gallery/2007/11/02/M0010528.FLV.html These were taken scuba diving: http://chrisnelson.ca/gallery/2007/11/24_s...010653.FLV.html http://chrisnelson.ca/gallery/2007/11/24_s...010593.FLV.html
  7. Hi oskar, I've found mine does the same thing when the batteries are low. It fires, but sometimes is picky about it. If I put fresh batteries in the strobe it seems to work fine. Is that the case for yours as well? cninsd
  8. Do you have a web link for the Sea&Sea adapters? Thanks.
  9. Yup, all in RAW. I wish the camera had a decent buffer on it, write times for RAW + JPG are about 4 seconds. I think it will burst 2/second in JPG, but I'm hooked on RAW.
  10. I had a chance to take my new Sea & Sea DX-1G (aka Ricoh GX100) diving and snorkeling on Catalina Island (California): http://chrisnelson.ca/gallery/2007/11/02/ These shots were all taken with available light, no flash or strobe. Some processing from DNG using ACR, mostly just some slight tint adjustments for white balance.
  11. There don't seem to be many examples out there, so I figured I should post my shots. I had a chance to take my new Sea & Sea DX-1G (aka Ricoh GX100) diving and snorkeling on Catalina Island: http://chrisnelson.ca/gallery/2007/11/02/ These shots were all taken with available light, no flash or strobe. Some processing from DNG using ACR, mostly just some slight tint adjustments for white balance.
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