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Everything posted by Scubacastor

  1. There some interesting books about filmmaking and image composition for video. My personal choice would go for "The Visual Story: Creating the visual structure of film, TV and digital media" and "The Filmmaker's Eye: Learning (and Breaking) the Rules of Cinematic Composition" . You'll get the basics with some good examples. About stories, it can be very wide, depending on the subject. Most people shoot and edit a summary of their vacation. Others try to bring a message. Then you have to specialize. If you like wrecks, making a film on wrecks may require a bit of investigation on the history of the wreck. If you want to do a wildlife film, then you also have to get some skills in finding and approaching the critters you want to show which might bring you into underwater macro videography.
  2. May I ask what do you mean by artistic side ? Artistic side can mean many things from image composition, color grading, scripted and visual storytelling that have their roots in regular (i.e. terrestrial) filmmaking techniques with also some inherent differences related to the U/W environment.
  3. I use a Teric and Perdix AI. My travel regulator only have a single HP port so no SPG but I have an extra one on my local coldwater gear. It's worth noting that Air Integration has been much better lately probably because the RF electronics has improved. A decade ago, using strobes or HID lights were just interfering with the wireless transmission. Now, I don't see it happening anymore.
  4. If I remember well, the Nauticam housing for the LX100II is not provided with any handle so you're free to use whatever tray/handles you like (NA-LX100 was just an housing with easy/flexitray as an option). It's slightly bigger than previous ikelite (clear) housing. I don't know about the size of the new housings but I don't think you'll get full control as the manual does not mention any knob to swith from auto to manual focus for example. To me the only frustrating thing with the nauticam housing is their attempt to integrate a wheel to rotate the jog dial on the back of the housing (it's not available on Ikelite and probably Seafrog). The jog is impossible to rotate properly underwater without making a mess in the settings. You can still press the sides and the center of the jog to access the menu but that's all.
  5. I had the first generation of Lx100 and used it almost only for video. I loved the fact you could easily access aperture and shutter speed. The rotating knob, focus wheel are nice to use as there's no need to navigate to some menu to access some basic functions. For UW video, a poor choice of housing makes a big difference with this camera because you may be unable to properly access those settings. The Nauticam housing provided a full control underwater while it was not the case for Ikelite and Meikon/Seafrog. I initially had an Ikelite housing and that what a bad choice as I didn't have any control to manual focus and then happily switched to Nauticam. What I disliked the most with the LX100 was some dust appeared on the sensor after some time. This is a plague for this earlier model requiring servicing at some stage. I don't know about Lx100ii but it's worth checking if this issue still exists. Other than that, I loved this camera and sometimes miss it (I moved to GH5s which is way bulkier underwater).
  6. Travel ban to the Philippines has been expanded to a really long list of countries including all Europe and North America. https://www.rappler.com/nation/254274-philippines-bans-foreigners-novel-coronavirus-hit-countries?fbclid=IwAR0i61ryThPIoNMF5-IuhiCfVTV4MP6uTNFE7gWojlISHcxmummai98Np7E
  7. Their shipping rate is $155... I am also interested in finding an EU supplier.
  8. I had a LX100 (the first model) for nearly 4 years before moving to a GH5s. While I love the GH5s, I sometimes miss that the LX100. LX100 is really nice for video, good at low light, but underwater you need to go the expensive Nauticam road if you want full control (Ikelite and other are partial with manual focus notably missing on Ikelite). And for macro work, you will need the flip holder and lens diopters. Therefore I wouldn't call that bundle a best value package. Also the first model of LX100 was good at getting some dust on the sensor at some stage through the lens barel. The repair is expensive. I don't know but hope the problem has been solved on the LX100II .
  9. In-body/lens stabilization when shooting macro is not essential as long as you're using a tripod. On the GH5s I own, I almost only shoot macro and in that case, it's not a problem with Olympus 12-50 or 60mm lenses as long as the tripod does properly its job. I prefer my housing to weight a little more underwater than being neutral for that use. On the opposite, a neutral housing for wide angle is way better. If you own a Leica lens with optical stabilization, the GH5s will have its stabilization menu enabled so you can choose between optical and electronic. With non Leica lenses, the menu is greyed.
  10. The Ikelite housing does not have a M67 adapter. I've printed mine. One can be bought from Ikelite. While the nauticam can probably fit on it, the M67 thread on the Fantasea dome seems very short considering the thread on the Ikelite adapter is recessed.
  11. Thanks for the infos on those lenses. Which "wetmate" lens do you refer to ? It seems like this name is shared by several manufacturers ? Regarding Fantasea, if you refer to this product ( http://reefphoto.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5328) , the M67 thread of the dome will probably not fit out of the box with the ikelite M67 adapter ( http://www.equip-u.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=13694 )
  12. We'll see when I have a chance to test a "proper wide angle" like the Ikelite WD4 which I am not ready to buy yet and seems to be the only option for Ikelite. I tried my old UWL-100 with its half dome and you get lots of soft corner so it's bad. I don't think there's a way to overcome this even using the macro mode. I may be wrong but I don't believe any M67 lens might do the trick on this housing considering how far you need to zoom (due to the length of the Ikelite port) to remove vignetting and then soft corners with the UWL-100 but I only have one lens to test and I am not an expert in that kind of optics. With the bare flat port, it's wide enough for me considering I have a Gopro to go wide when needed and I am mostly interested in medium/macro filming.
  13. Hello, I own the Ikelite housing and I am just back from some dives with it in the Dutch Caribbean. Here are a few comments regarding the housing. I used it almost only for video with a URPro filter and the UCL-165 macro lens down to 60m. Overal, the housing is fun to use. Insertion of the camera is a bit tricky the first time because of the wheel at the back of the housing but not complicated. All buttons are responsive and you don't have to do weird move with the controls to access some functions. Being from the UW video world using regular camcorders, I was very pleased to discover the camera has an excellent low light behavior in comparison to my Canon HF-S10 camcorder. Autofocus was also quicker. I tried additional focus mode such as subject tracking (you select a target and then the camera continuously focus on it) and it also worked nicely Regarding macro, you have to zoom almost halfway to avoid vignetting using the UCL-165. I haven't had the time to develop a tripod for the housing therefore testing macro was not that simple but non moving macro subjects were okay as autofocus was fine. I am currently working on an addon (micro RC servo and 3D printed gears) to add access to focus mode switch and front ring but overal I would say the lack of focus mode switch is not, as it may seem (and worried me), a substantial key issue for video including macro video.
  14. I've heard about the same problem with this camcorder with other housings. No solution for now
  15. Thanks for the review. I've been using laptop and tabletPCs for years. As a geek in underwater video, I don't find any interest in the Ipad, considering there's on the market alternate solutions such as the Archos PC tablet 9 and a couple of Tablet netbooks from Asus which have all the versability one may want for the same price range. I like my Ipod but like when Iphone appeared, I don't see where the revolution or change is. Smartphone and TabletPC were almost a decade before Apple's products. It's the way they are advertised that make them different with lots of buzz selling revolution that actually does not exist. My old 2004 tablet PC was quite useful to review DV video shots. Even Vegas was running well on it. Last time I used it in the field for video was 2 years ago. Now I am in the AVCHD world and so far no product such as Ipad or netbook have met my expectation. So no Ipad for me.
  16. I bought my IVIS HF-S10 from Pricejapan and had it to my home in Europe in less than a week. If you find the price of this camcorder high in the US don't even think about buying it in Europe... I would however avoid (and avoided) to buy such a thing from Ebay but rather from an established seller in Japan (like Pricejapan.com)
  17. I was in Raja Ampat last month. The only advice I can give you is to use the red filter a lot considering you are shooting wide. I was unable to do achieve a correct MWB or at least to do better than auto on several occasions so I stayed with auto white balance. Not enough light but we haven't had lots of sun... but the filter was convenient in most situation.
  18. Thanks Mike, it's definitely a good thing the canon remote control allows a full control of the control except on/off and switching between photo/camcorder mode as basically housings relying on infrared or like the gates on the remote control allow full control underwater. However since we are talking about WB, your tutorial is true on the process to follow to achieve MWB but shows MWB is not achieved at the end. The blinking MWB icon is not supposed to blink when MWB is correctly achieved (I've checked). The color tone on your video has not changed before and after placing the white paper in front of the camera... I had with the HF-S10 made several tests in a pool with and without light, using or not the red filter. Curiously, I am not sure MWB is very useful on this camera. First, you apparently need lots of light to achieve a correct MWB (ie non blinking icon). Secondly, I've never seen big changes in color tones between being in auto or in MWB and auto seems to provide quite good color tones in many situations. You can however get big differences (better or worst) if you switch between the various preset WB.
  19. This guy was about 1cm long. I don't think it's actually a digital effect. Sometimes telephoto is just interpolation of pixels but (I may be wrong), from the info I've grabbed about that camcorde, it seems here it is about using less pixels than the 8Mp of the sensor but the number of used pixels is still enough to natively qualify the picture as HD rather than interpolated pixels. I also own the flat port with the M67 thread. The Inon UWL-100 type 2 does not fit the port and the type I has awful vignetting and distortion but I think this is mostly because of the size of the lens of the camcorder and far distance from the housing port. The smaller HF-200 may actually do the job better. I don't know about the other WA lenses (especially the new 10bar ones). The macro lenses from Inon seems to fit nicely without vignetting but I haven't had a chance to do some wet test with them. I had a dive with the flat port only on a wreck. It was not terribly interesting. Unless you want (like me) to do some macro work and unless the 10bar WA work, I don't find the flat port to be an interesting buy (although the port and necessary tool are less than 100 euros). I need to add the last part of the review which will be more about field use in remote locations (in Raja Ampat) where the pygmy picture came from I've recently uploaded a video on vimeo from a raw mts file (auto WB, red filter, WP80, 5m depth): http://www.vimeo.com/8873938
  20. The HF-S** has also a telephoto mode. I've been using that mode for close-ups with my WA lens. I don't feel from the pictures the degradation of picture is substantial. Using the WP80 on a Mangrove housing, I think I have something like 70% of zoom through capabilities. The picture below is a low format grab from one of my mts file
  21. Inon has some macro lenses. They can be stacked together. On my previous sd system, I've used to have terrestrial diopters mounted underwater on the M67 port. +10 and +4 . Worked okay. I am however sure, it would work badly on HD...
  22. It's really hard to tell because what I had in hand was from a Sony HC3 and now I have this HF-S10. Not the same products at all considering also several years of difference which is big technologically speaking. I clearly prefer the HF S-10 for almost everything except the lack of viewfinder. In terms of pictures, I also prefer this camcorder. It also seems to me (but I may be wrong) that this camcorder handles more naturally the underwater colors but I haven't had a chance to test it in many conditions (green/blue/tropical)
  23. I don't really see why tape would be better. Tape has the advantage of not being compressed in AVCHD and being an easily available media. You however have to transfer from tape to PC which means playing the tape. That process takes some time and put some wear on the magnetic heads. None of that with hard drives or flash. The resolution is also lower, 1440x1080 (1 920×1 080 is interpolated). The format might be more convenient to manipulate than AVCHD from hard drives and flash based memory in terms of computer resource required but with all of them you can also do the same type of serious editing. For example, Vegas pro handles all my files regardless if they were from tapes or from my flash HF-S10 camcorder.
  24. Well it seems like there are products advertised as "Fathom" and products advertised as "designed by Fathom". I am also the proud owner of a "UOM" lense namely WP-80 you can find at least from Ikelite, Aditech and Zen Underwater. All those manufacturers says "it has been designed by fathom" and don't say "this is a fathom lens" . Actually even LM says the same thing: "Additional Optics include a line of Fathom designed lenses" (http://www.uwimaging.com/bluefin-optics.php) which is different from saying "Additional Optics include a line of Fathom lenses". The confusion is in their table when they name product "fathom 80" (and so on...) In my case, for WP-80 there's a big difference in the price tag from supplier although the lens is definitely the same. For housing with specific port system, there are generally no choice between suppliers and you'll have to follow the housing manufacturer road where the price is naturally expected to be the highest possible even if it's from Chinese sources. I don't know the price of real Fathom lenses but maybe it would be even higher than the chinese versions. I think the real question is to know if there are some optical differences between a "real fathom" lens and the "fathom designed" copy. After all, we don't buy housing to have heavy pieces of branded stuff but to do some images.
  25. From the genuine remote control sold with the camera, accessing and setting the exposure is very simple: just use the arrow to navigate and set exposure. From the top of the gates housing it seems to me that you can navigate in the left and right menus which leaves you with pretty much access to everything. From the pics in http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33265 , you have the arrows, "menu" and "set" on the LMI housing therefore I think you can do the same as well. On the camcorder you can only assign exposure on the custom wheel if you don't want to navigate in the menus. Other than LMI and Gates, I may repeat that Aditech is also worth a look as this housing performs nicely. I have been using this housing since last summer with a WP80 and a HF-S10. Almost no or no vignetting at all (it requires careful positionning of the camcorder on the tray) and access to all functions except the "custom control wheel" .
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