Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


dpoursanidis last won the day on August 10 2014

dpoursanidis had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About dpoursanidis

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • Skype

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Greece, Crete

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 50D
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    S&S 110 and 110a
  • Accessories

Recent Profile Visitors

3502 profile views
  1. Not yet. I am a happy customer of them but they remove Aquatica from their support. Seems that Aquatica owners in EU will face issues quite soon.
  2. Is that list still valid? With teh Brexit, a decent service center now is hard to be found for Aquatica systems in Europe and European Union particular due to enormous costs that come on top of the actual service cost. Do we have a recommendation for that brand? Appreciate any valid and decent recommendation Best regards Dimitris
  3. I will add also here the weight on land and the final cost in expense of some watts. Is a matter of target subjects as said.
  4. Dears Problem solved and was not all around what we discuss here. The emmited light by the e-opto is too strong and after the first trigger, then the strobes cannot cope with it and are blocked. Retra team advice me to cover with black tape 2/3 of the optical part of the strobe and now it works fine. This will be fixed by a firmware update in the next 2-3 weeks. I have the latest Pro X. Have a nice day Dimitris
  5. I run the strobes in M mode only. They begin with 3-4 times to flash simultaneous, then once the one and once the other, then for the capacitors, no light, then both and again once the one and once the other. Am wondering if the trigger board in the housing with the switchers have role in that behavior but i couldn't find out any manual from Aquatica for that - i just write them and email on that.
  6. Step 1 for TTL checked. When i use the system, the first 3-4 triggers works perfect (the quality of the light is amazing! bravo !!). Step 2 for BATT/TEST checked. No problem. In regards to teh trigger board, here is a photo of it https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YqzJmbStbtPCd7lN79UAMn8f6fGcalGT/view?usp=sharing. Reading the field manual of AQUATICA (https://www.aquatica.ca/en/charts/bulkhead_web_field_guide.pdf) i couldn't find out what the change of the position of the switcher will do. Seems that i have that system (https://aquatica.ca/product/18912/) but is unclear if is direct iTTL or Manual only or the white switchers and the position of them change that. If you can help out on that, this will be wonderful (i send now mail to Aquatica as well). Thanks for the support and the amazing lights
  7. only once see the video here > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YulvK1GohXmNFhxPn4B-5pc4AzqC1uYf/view?usp=sharing also the board in Aquatica housing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YuX9Q_USjaN2Ozo1em61qWUXWfhV2Uno/view?usp=sharing (is for 70D and works flawless with the 110a S&S).
  8. i don't use fiber optic cable but the Sea & Sea 5 Pin Dual Sync Cord and the e-Opto is directly attached to the strobe
  9. by attaching the circuit cable on the hot shoe of Canon 80D, do i need to change what in the settings? I write above the current settings. Manual flash option is availabe only for the built-in flash.
  10. The settings in the flash are Smart SL and the dial in M Mode. The setting in Canon 80D for the flash control are "Flash firing = Enable, E-TTL II meter = Average, Built-in flash settings = MANUAL mode" Should i change the settings in the flash to Disable and the dial in M Mode?
  11. Am shooting at -0.5 or -1 but not continuus. Per two or three seconds let say.
  12. Today i test them underwater. The settings of both strobes are in SmartSL by default. I start smooth with 4-5 continuues flashes and the bizzare behaviort appear. One stobe flash, one not, one flash, one not. Stop it for a while, the 3-4 continuues smooth flashes. Then again the same. What am doing wrong? Do i have to see if the batteries in the optoelectronic converter need to be replaces? The electric cable? Do i need to set U1 to SmartSL and make the nessesary adjustments even if it is already set? Thanks !!!
  13. This is for Canon or other brand where you setup the way of using the flash?
  14. I didn't check that - assuming that in M mode they will work as in with my YS110a. I will check that in the menu of Canon 80D, right? Thanks Chris for the advice !
  15. Yeap. Now after firmware update, seems that works fine. The bizzare is that the fresh ENELOOP 2500m does not work as good as i expect. With few flashes and updates of firmware etc, drop below 30% in half an hour of work. Now i add new batteries and tomorrow first day in the water. I would like to see 2 versions or one version similar to INON or S&S on how to use electrical connection or optical without any need of e-opto converters.
  • Create New...