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About fotoscubo714

  • Rank
    Sting Ray

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sherman Oaks, Ca.
  • Interests
    Boat diving
    Cold water diving
    Tropical location diving
    Ocean Kayaking
    Nitrox Tech diving
    CCR diving
    Digital and Film Photography (duh)
    HD Videography

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
  • Camera Model & Brand
    EOS 7D and D10, Oly E-PL1, Nikonos III, Hassy SWC.
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite, Oceanic, Hassy, Rollimarine
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelites w/ EO
  • Accessories
    TLC, ULCS, Oceanic arms

Recent Profile Visitors

4825 profile views
  1. Hello fellow Dutchman (I was born in Den Haag ). My post was actually a gentle nudge for Nauticam to consider. I think they could do it if they are able to get their hands on the Caldwell design optics that is inside the metabones adapter. Since Nauticam already has developed a working adapter to work for the Sony NEX 5 housing to fit the Nikonos mount, it would not be much of a stretch to think that it be able to fit the optics inside the Nauticam NEX-Nikonos adapter. I have shot the 12mm Sea&Sea and loved it. Just imagine to be able to have this lens full frame and it be faster at f2.8 as well.
  2. I know about the Nikonos lens adapter for the Nauticam housing for the Sony NEX. Could this new Metabone "Speed Booster" adapter idea be a way to get my old (and much loved and missed) Nikonos 15mm lens back to function FF and be a stop faster? How wonderful to have the use of that great lens again, although it is going to be all old skool manual..LOL
  3. Hi Bill, The OP claims the following on his design: "....It is supposed to be used in dark environments to focus, and then it turns off automatically for the shutter and flash actuation. It also has a mode for continuous light, which is less impressive but handy for video or a poor man's flash. It runs on two 3V watch batteries and makes it 1000% easier to get an AF lock indoors in dim lighting. At the same time, it doesn't effect the image because it turns off automatically while the exposure is happening. I use it on my E-PL1, but it should work on ANY camera that triggers its flash shoe before an exposure...." I hope you can find a way to use it underwater. Cheers, Bo
  4. In principle the backscatter is you lighting up the junk between your lens and your subject. By proper aiming your strobes and using only the outer edges of your beam to hit your subject you can significantly reduce lighting up the junk between. The trick is to aim your strobes outward where they need to be in reality, not where you think they are aimed because of your vision behind the flat glass of your mask. I would recommend to test your strobe aiming in a pool at night and see where your beam hits at various distances. After a while it becomes second nature . Good luck and practice makes perfect, Cheers, Bo
  5. Thanks for the post. I'm still trying to put an old glass port on an old Ike port. Although I'm afraid that the curvature of the dome may not be enough for the Tok with 1.4. Also the Ike port diameter is slightly smaller than the port diameter and needs some sort of fitted adapter end. Got my diamond cut off wheel and drill stand though...LOL. Bo
  6. Found this post on DPR that maybe of interest to those wanting to DIY a focus light. Although post is about topside unit, it should be able to adapt to an underwater version somehow. http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp...essage=35983456 Just what I need, another project Bo
  7. How I loved Kodachrome 25 in 6x6 medium format . No grain, sharpness even when blown up and projected into mural size. Heavy 400v battery-powered strobes in full power. Only 12 or 24 shots per dive....... Discipline baby! I'm so greatfull for digital Better get that left-over film developed before December, Drew. Bo
  8. Some here may remember how their macro shots "popped" with this awesome slide film back in the old 60's, 70's, and well into the 80's (`especially when printed on Cibachrome..remember those nice sharp saturated prints?) . Farewell, I will miss you. http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/us_kodachrome_s_last_roll Bo
  9. Ooops...sorry I missed that. Well I tried, but no cigar. You tried it with a free rubber bumper like your IPhone? Good luck, hope you find the answer to your problem soon. Probably something simple we all go "slap to the head - !DUH!" over afterwards. Bo
  10. You have not mentioned what strobe you are using. I have a suspicion that your strobe is firing on the preflash. Does your strobe have flash delay settings? I'm actually using my Oly Pen to bring digital life to my manual lenses and shooting in Av mode with Canon FD and Hassy lenses via adapters. It looks really silly when the lenses are much bigger than the camera. . But I'm loving my old glass again. I'm also using an old Nikon flash in manual mode that has no preflash. When shooting on automatic, I get pre-flash sync problems and underexposre. So check your strobe settings and see if it fires on the camera's preflash for focus and exposure. Good luck and learn how to shoot manual Bo
  11. Yep, that's why I have not gotten an Ike for my 7D. Page 143 of the 7D manual says you can press the <M-Fn> button to change the AF area selection mode and then turn the dials to select the AF point, ....but only after you press the multicontroller to make the AF point selectable. So with an Ike you are screwed trying to do this. Why Ike decided to ignore this major control goes beyond me. I can not live without this control topside on fast settings changes. It is a real shame for I already have so much in Ike ports etc. Ikelite really needs to upgrade their 7D housing (like they did with the 5Dm2) and find access to this major camera control. Some sort of pushable multidirectional-joystick/button be really awsome!
  12. Hey Jim, If Ikelite is unable to accomodate what you need, then think of making your own backplate. A piece of lexan can be carefully tooled with a rotary cutter and grooved with a router table. A drill press for the holes etc. Just buy enough lexan to make 3 for the first 2 will probably be learning pieces with chipped edges . I'm thinking to do the same with a cheap used digital Ikelite housing I bought on eBay and make it work for my Oly Pen. What I want the housing to do, I know Ikelite will never make (nor any other manfacturer) and the project therefore needs to be a DIY. I just bought a new Dremel set to give it a try. If anything comes to work (I have so many pending projects right now) I will report in the DIY forum Bo
  13. Now, how cool is that! Old Skool BABY!!! There must be a great story with that picture. Write it and get it published in some travel/sport magazine. I see it as a possible cover for you. Great shot! Bo
  14. Awsome report and awsome pictures. Especially the downward shot of the shark swimming out of the baitball. I share your concerns on the low risk and impact awareness from novice divers and foolish operators. Bo
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