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  1. Any thoughts on the Toshiba tecra A7 or A6. They good on paper They can be customized with 7200 hard drives. They have hard drive protection for bumps. Decent screens. Duo processors The big problem is the A7 (15.4â€) has an integrated video card. How much will this effect processing photos? I do tend to want the 15†over the 14â€
  2. I can't seem to find how many enteries per catigory are allowed? Thanks, mark
  3. I am traveling to Indonesia in a few days on Cathay Pacific. I noticed that they have a ridiculous weight limit on carry-on stuff--15pds. I have a lowpro roadrunner with many L-lens and mkII 1ds in it, and a secondary bag with a computer in it. Obviously, I do not want to check it under the plane. It weighs in at 33 pds (without the secondary computer bag). Has anyone had any experiences with this airlines? Are they that serous about carry-on stuff that they are going to make me check it under the plane? If so, will they let me put the camera around my neck and stuff some lens in my jacket? Any suggestions, mark
  4. I ended up going with the Seacam and have never looked back. It is a great housing with zero issues. The view finders are the envey of many. Once you use them, you will understand how nice they are. As for stobes, i have been very happy with ds125s. There are some issues with flooding on these strobes; however, Ike has been great about repairs. I never used a Subal housing. But i have seen them. i am happy i got the seacam. Good luck, mark
  5. William stated that “Canon's flash, with high speed sync, when set to high speed sync more or less emits a constant beem of light long enough for the slit to move all the way across the frame.†There is something here that I am just not getting. The duration of the Canon flash being longer for a shorter shutter speed doesn’t seem to make sense to me. If the strobe (ds125) takes 250th of second to dump, and the shutter is only taking 500th of second to move across the plan, then the strobe is firing throughout the duration of the curtain moving and then some. I would think that just the amount of overall light is cut down hitting the sensor. Unless the real problem is the shutter starts moving before the flash fires. Then I could see some of the frame getting clipped off. Now if this is the case, how does Canon achieve high speed sync? Do they delay the shutter opening? Are all flash’s created equally in terms of how fast they can start to fire. Thanks, mark
  6. I am now using a Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark II in a Seacam housing. I was using two ds125s (I flooded one and am now contemplating switching strobes). In trying to achieve the sun balls or freeze sun rays, I have noticed that to come close I need to push my shutter speed higher then the max sync speed of 250. I am curious of the relation ship between published sync speed and what a camera is able to do. Canon tech support is of no help. Canon does have ability to high speed sync with its own flash. I decided to run some test tonight in my living room with the housing and one ds125. Taking pictures of a plant I noticed that pushing to 320 will give a decent result—some loss of light. As I push the shutter speed up past that I get the bottom of the picture cut off while the top half seemed to have decent exposure, but the same loss of light. The faster I push the speed the more the picture is cut offed. It is as if a card is placed in front of the lens. I then tried to cut the power down on the strobe. The only effect was a poor exposure in the top half of the shot. What is causing the blocked light effect? I then hooked up my Canon flash and put it in high speed mode. As I pushed the shutter speed up, my picture over all got darker but there was no picture cut off. I could naturally compensate for the darkness by opening the aperture. So what is my limiting factor here? If it is the dump time of the strobe wouldn’t I have poor exposure throughout the picture not just a cut off bottom? And if the camera can high speed sync with a Canon without cutting off the picture why can’t it do it with an external strobe? Any suggestions on tricking the camera into letting me high speed sync? Has anyone tried to use a Canon flash u/w and with what results? Finally I need to open the can of worms, which strobe might be able to dump quicker if in fact that is the issue? Thanks, mark
  7. I am using Photoshop CS. My camera is the Canon MKII. Yes, using the updated raw converter improved my color renditions. Thanks for the tip on the calibrator scrit. I just order the color card. I have often wondered if i brought a color card of sorts on the dive, then take a picture for not only white balancing , but to try and tweek other colors. My last trip i was going to do this with a small set of magic markers but i forgot them. The real pain is that our color dynamics are always changing--depth, strobe/camera distance, water composition.... Taking test shots for every photo is not to practicle. No great answers, mark
  8. Craig, after posting my message i down loaded the beta 2.4 verson. My colors seem much better now. Is the new verson prone to this? What do you mean by the color profiling isn't complete? Did i miss something? I have calibrated with a sypder, and that is the color space i use.
  9. I decided to a picture of a set of colored magic markers to test for printer color rendition. The picture was taken in the raw/jpeg mode (Canon MKI). When I open the raw file in Photoshop directly, via its plug in, the colors were way off. This is no matter what I do with white balance. The jpeg actually has better color rendition. I then opened the raw file with EOS viewer. The colors were good. When I transferred them to PS via the transfer button, they looked fine. So it seems that PS raw converter is messing up my colors. Has anyone else found this problem? I am missing something? Thanks, Mark
  10. I would love to be able to edit pictures while traveling. I am going to be purchasing Photoshop cs. I also will be upgrading to a new lap top—possibly a sony A series with a centrino 1.7ghz, 512 ram, 80gb, 15 xbrite screen. Has anybody have experience running ps on lap tops? Can these screens be calibrated well? Or am I better off using my old dell with a Trinitron crt. Thanks for your input, mark
  11. If anyone is interested here is new review [/url]http://www.steves-digicams.com/2004_reviews/1d_mk2.html
  12. Yes PMA is only six weeks away. But the new products and housings are, realistically, close to a year away. My dilemma is that I don’t want to dive with the E 20 any more. It is frustrating! Remember that I tend to go diving every three months. Am sure that all will agree that diving is great, but once you get the bug of photographing your experiences, diving is raised to a new level. Should I go with the 10D, I except that it will be replaced in probably two years time. I would wait for the next big thing at PMA 2005. Maybe by that time the cost of making full frame sensors will come down. I don’t know it is all speculation. Bottom line is it seems the need to upgrade is now. I vowed that this fall when my rig locked up at “aquarium” in Belize. Waiting would sure be a hard thing to do……..
  13. There are many great points in the responses to the threads I posted. I am trying to look at this realistically. I am a new baby at this, an amateur. Of course the 1Ds is overkill. Hell, I would almost feel guilty taken pictures with such an instrument. While I don’t relish the thought of having to upgrade in a couple of years, I still can’t get over the fact the 1Ds would cost me at least 5 to 6 thousand more then another system and, of coarse, there is no guarantee that I will not want to upgrade from that. My wife has already tried to bet me that if I buy it, it would not last past three years. I am smart enough not to take the bet. Bottom line is that the money I can save I can use to upgrade in the future should I feel the need, possibly to the 1Ds when the prices fall, or when my ego inflates, or possible to a camera somewhere between the 10D and the 1Ds. While I would love to wait for PMA to see the next big thing, my diving season is not over. I get away every 3 months or so to the Caribbean for a long weekends/short week vacations. If I was to wait, I would not be into a new system for another year. My set up now, titan /E20, is just to maddening at times. The biggest issue being at least every other dive it locks up on me at least once during the dive. This is after I sent it back for a new board and an upgrade in springs. Right or wrong I tend to lean toward the Canon line. Amongst other things, and there are many, I like the feel of them, the glass they offer, and yes the possibility of upgrading in the future. I think that the limitation in wide angle can be overcome, either by the sigma or by a new Canon lens that I am sure will come. I will be using this top side and I am eyeing the 28-135 IS also. Does anyone know anything about this lens, and if it would work well UW. Is it supported? Thanks, Mark P.S. anyone want to buy a titan/E20
  14. While I was kicking around the idea of the 1Ds, reality has set in thanks to some replies on my first post. I will probably settle for the 10D and up grade later if need be. Now the question is what to house it in. Who has used what? I am thinking of either the 16-35 or 17-40 for wide angle, a 24-70 for general purpose (fish), and a 100 macro. Any thoughts on which housing/ port set ups.
  15. Thanks for the advice. I have been visiting this site for a long time now and it has been an increadable source of information.0 I am not that naive in thinking that the 1Ds is going to be the end all in cameras. It just seems to me that the camera companies are having a blast praying on those in the prosumer camera markets. It seems they up grade yet hold back some so they have something else to release in a year or two. They just want to make money: case in point is the fact that d-ttl is not accessible to us because the companies want to sell their own flashes. Let’s face it, the next generation of prosumer cameras are going to come out, and a lot of the people on this site who already have great set ups are going to get them or at the least want them pretty badly, especially if they are any full frame sensors. I look at the 1Ds and see a camera that is 3 times more expensive then others. But realistically, who is going to put an 11 mp full frame sensor, a killer 45 point auto focus system, a 250 sync, etc, etc, in a prosumer camera any time soon for a decent price? The way I see it I can go out and buy a 10D, or D100, or S2Pro (all great cameras) now and short change what I want, knowing I will have to upgrade once, probably twice or possibly three times to get to anything close to the 1Ds. Or I can bite the big one and buy the 1Ds and hope that this will be good enough for my application for years to come. (Boy I would hope so.) Ultimately yes, in a few generations of prosumer cameras there might be there an equal for a decent price, but by that time how much time, energy, and money would I have spent in upgrading to get there. Though I seemed pretty convinced on the 1Ds, I think I will take Stephen’s advice and wait for pma to see the next big thing. I just wonder what they will leave out.
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