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ReefRoamer

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Everything posted by ReefRoamer

  1. This setup includes a flat port for the Canon 100mm macro lens. No extension ring is necessary. A domeport for the 10-22mm Canon zoom is also included. A domeport is necessary for the 10-22mm.
  2. I've used the Canon 10-22 on a 20D in my Subal housing on trips to Cocos and Galapagos. I got plenty of good stuff and had no cpmplaints. However, I was shooting a lot at the 22mm end of the zoom range, and I think a 16-35mm would likely be a sligtly better choice in many of the shooting situations. You're still going to need to be in fairly close range to light up big animals like hammerheads. Thus, I think anything longer than 35mm (on a crop sensor camera) would be problematic for me.
  3. I just returned from flying SQ from LAX to Bali, via SIN. I checked two bags, each under 50lbs. I carried aboard a backpack (with camera bodies and lenses) and a briefcase (with computer), without difficulty. This combination also worked from Austin to LAX on American Airlines. I checked the bags in Austin through to Denpasar, but AA weighed them at the counter in Austin. I was in first class on a frequent flyer ticket, so there was no penalty for a second checked bag. In the past, I had always checked two 70-pound bags on Asia trips and the US carriers permitted this without penalty since I was connecting to the international carrier that permitted two 70-pound items. Most international carriers now permit two 50-pound bags, rather than the 70lbs. SIN is consistent with the rest. This time, I had to ditch my 30-pound Storm case (for photo gear). Instead, I checked the unbreakable UW photo gear in smaller, semi-rigid bag, and carried on cameras and lenses. Also had to ditch a lot of redundant photo and dive gear I had previously carried for backup. This was how I got rid of 40 pounds. Remember that you may always catch a break from an airline counter employee, but you can't count on it ... especially if you are dealing with multiple airlines. Otherwise, just be prepared to pay the extra charges for extra pieces or weight, and hope for some good luck!
  4. I have both lenses and usually go for the 100mm macro. It's much preferred, by me, to get the really small stuff ... especially skittish creatures. I just returned from Bali (Tulamben and Menjangan) and used the 100mm for all macro stuff. No complaints.
  5. I can sell everything piecemeal here in Austin, and actually get a much better price in total. Thanks, though, for having a look.
  6. Complete setup, ready to go, includes: Canon EOS 20D (8.2 megapixels) Canon 10-22mm EF-S wide angle zoom lens Canon 60mm EF-S macro lens Subal C-20 underwater housing with grand viewfinder Subal flat port for macro lens Subal FE2 dome port for wide-angle zoom lens Lens gears, body and port covers, dovetails, wet lens diopter Two Inon Z220 strobes with TLC arms & clamps Dual synch cables Storm case with padded dividers All in excellent working condition. Strobes and housing show some external wear. Offered at $4,500 including shipping in USA.
  7. I have and use both lenses, but I use the 100 a lot more, primarily because of the working distance it provides for skittish little creatures. Also, the extra working distance usually gives me more options in positioning myself for a shot. I love the size/weight of the 60, but for the kind of macro I shoot most often, the 100 is a better bet.
  8. These are consistent with my own results. StuartL is right. Learn to use the "distortion" as a creative tool. You'll get some incredible views that go beyond what the eye can normally see. A long telephoto lens produces flattening and its own kind of distortation that makes for some incredible shots. Same for the ultra wides. If all you want is normal, get a "normal" range lens that produces something equivalent to about 50mm on a 35mm camera.
  9. The camera rooms are more of a convenience than a requirement. They have power so you can recharge batteries there, and keep spare ports, arms, strobes, etc., under lock. However, the dive center is spacious and most shooters just work on their gear on the tables there. I always left my cameras and housings locked in the camera room and never had a problem in seven trips. Saved me having to carry the stuff to and from the room each day (which is sometimes a long walk!).
  10. These routes are heavily traveled by time-sensitive business people and their companies pick up the tab for Business Class on such long flights. Until the aircraft conversations to all-Business Class are completed later this year, you can still get economy and Executive Economy seats by traveling on days when the unconverted aircraft are in use on these routes. My understanding is that the switch to all Business Class seating is for only the non-stop flights between EWR & LAX and Singapore. In other words, there will still be regular multi-cabin service on other routings between the US and Singapore that involve at least one stopover. My group had to reschedule our LAX-SIN flights in September to a day later in order to keep the EE service.
  11. Typically, you will find that the insurance companies will issue a policy, at a higher rate. The same usually applies to private pilots. The lowest rates seem to be reserved for couch potatoes. Companies always advertise their lowest rates. The extra rating for divers and many others is crazy, but it's been around for years. If you are a non-diver, you can get the best rate and it can't be changed if you decide later to take up diving. Life policies are typically uncontestable and unchangeable after one or two years. So the best time to buy insurance is when you are young, healthy and not doing much of anything.
  12. I have a 30D and use primarily the Canon 10-22mm for wide angle work and the Canon 105mm f2.8 macro for very close macro work. I also have a Canon EF-S 60mm macro for fish portraits and some macro. For my walk-around topside lens, I've become partial to the Canon EF-S 17-85mm IS zoom lens. It's not the fastest or the sharpest lens in the bag, but the image stabilization -- and ability to bump up ISO on the fly -- have made it very versatile for me. And it is adequately sharp, IMHO, reasonably priced and of modest size and weight for everyday use ... much better than the 18-55 Canon kit lens. I have pushed the 30D to ISO 800 and higher in low light situations and never had any major complaints about noise. I've often used ISO 400 underwater for wide-angle scenics. The 40D should be even better noise-wise. The 30D is housed in a Subal case with the appropriate Subal port; Inon Z220 strobes. Good luck!
  13. This one surprised me, too. Looks like Canon is trying to reset the top-line for prosumer point-and-shoot cameras. It seems to offer great promise for underwater use, especially if its wide-angle capability can be expanded through add-ons. Noise could be an issue at higher ISOs, but my guess is that Canon's new Digic III processor will substantially address this potential problem. I was quite suprised to see Canon reinstate the RAW capability, which is great for us UW types.
  14. Great! Fistfights in the cockpit over who's in charge! I can hardly wait! What if the less-experienced co-pilot is wrong and overrides the captain? Hmmm. So much for "pilot in command."
  15. This is an endless debate, often discussed in the forums. I use Canon, so the choice for me is 60 or 100. The difference is that, while both offer 1:1 maximum macro magnification, the 105 achieves this from a greater distance. This can be advantageous with skittish critters, but you'll have more water between the lens and subject. The 60 will provide the same magnification, but you need to get closer to the subject to achieve it. In clear water, the greater lens-to-subject focus distance of the 100/105 isn't usually an issue. As visibility declines, though, you'll want to get closer to the subject and this is where the 60 is advantageous. The 60 also can be used more easily for medium-range fish pictures, as the 100/105 will often give you too much magnification. or require too much distance from the subject. The 100/105 is likely preferable in situations where it's difficult to approach the subject. The 60 is usually preferable where viz is more limited, you can get closer to the subject and you might want to get some more medium-range shots on the same dive. With the 100/105 and longer lenses, you are pretty much committed to maximum macro. From what I have read in these forums, the common recommendation is to start with the 60 and consider adding the 100/105 later if you are bumping the limitations of the 60.
  16. I would say another consideration is how much you travel. A DSLR rig with camera, lenses, housing, ports, strobes, arms, clamps, batteries, chargers and accessories can easily consume its own large, heavy case. A simple PNS setup will usually fit in a single bag with your dive gear and clothing. Having been separated from my photo equipment before, I usually carry a small PNS inside its housing in my carryon these days, in addition to checking an SLR case.
  17. Having been to both, I confirm your choices of 16-35 and 100 macro for the WA and macro UW shots. Definitely take two strobes for the wide stuff. The current shouldn't be that difficult and you typically won't have long swims. The surge can get a little hairy. For Machu Picchu, the choice is more problematic. On my trip, in 2000, I carried a Canon film SLR and used only my Canon 28-200 zoom. Not the sharpest lens available, but acceptable for me considering its zoom range, size and weight. I wish there were was an L version. Today, on my 20D, I'd probably take the EFS 17-85 and perhaps a 70-200. The 17-85 (or 28-200) would get the most use by far, since there really aren't that many long tele needs. You'll be shooting wide to medium most of the time on land. I never felt I was lacking at 200mm. The 100-400 is too big and heavy considering the few opportunities you'll have to use it beyond 200, IMHO. Take a polarizing filter for better sky. Great trip, so hope you have a good time!
  18. I use a Canon 100 macro with a Subal AF port, since the MF option is not available. No problems. Actually, I find the best tool is a good focus light which allows fast, reliable AF. Even without the focus light, though, the f2.8 aperature makes AF fairly easy. A good focus light would make manual focusing easier, too, in low light/low contrast situations.
  19. David Pogue, in the NY Times this week, reviewed Apple TV along with commentary on the Xbox and Netgrear offerings. Apple TV Has Landed
  20. In the USA, you can typically cover your camera equipment on a Personal Articles Rider purchased separately with your homeowner's insurance. It's similar to covering jewelry, computers, etc. You'll need to list each item for coverage, serial number and value. Keep receipts. This is "all risk" coverage that includes any kind of loss. With my insurer, the cost is about $1.50 per $100 of scheduled value per year ... roughly $150 per year for $10,000 of scheduled equipment. I update my schedule regularly when I purchase new equipment or sell old equipment. Also, it's a good idea to adjust the values each year as the equipment gets older. For example, no need to keep a D100 on the schedule at $1,700 (original new price) today.
  21. One advantage of this lens is that it allows you to more easily find tiny subjects at the 70mm focal length, work your way in and then zoom up to the 180mm focal length for frame-filling images. I used it extensively with my D100 setup and still miss it today with my Canon 20D setup, although the Canon 100 macro is superb also. The 70-180 offers great flexibility. An internal diopter limits the focus distance, and with a diopter, flat port and external "wet" diopter, you're piling on a lot of glass between the lens and subject.
  22. I believe the DSC-N2 uses a touch screen from control of camera settings, and I am not sure how this would translate for use in the housing. You may not be able to change any settings underwater, and that could be a drawback. But I'm not sure. Another thing to be aware of is that, at very close distances, the lens port of the housing blocks some of the camera flash, causing a shadow across the bottom of extreme macro shots. This is the case with the similarly designed MPK housing for the Sony DSC-W series cameras. You might want to consider a different Sony camera (or other brand) that will give you more camera control inside a housing. Check out the Canon and Olympus P&S cameras and their associated housings, which are similarly priced to the Sony. I've used a Sony DSCW1 in the Sony housing and gotten good results in many situations.
  23. There is no focus/zoom knob on the FE2 dome port. With my Canon 10-22mm zoom lens, the zoom is controlled by a knob on the housing body which drives a zoom gear fitted to the lens. This same knob may control the focus on some fixed-length lenses for which a focus gear is available. Be sure to check the availability from Subal of a focus or zoom gear for your desired lens. Without a gear, the availability of a focus or zoom knob is problematic. There is no focus gear, for example, for the Canon 100 f2.8 USM macro lens. That said, I've been quite pleased with the auto-focusing of the 100 macro through the flat port. You may find a good focus light helpful to achieve autofocus in some situations (where it also would be helpful for manual focus).
  24. I am using the Canon 100mm macro with the Subal housing and port. The problem is that Subal does not make a focus gear for this lens. I tried the Nikon port with the manual focus and could never make it work consistently well. The manual focus port, which I think it was the FP120, was about twice the price of the flat port without focus gear. I gave up on the manual focus option and went with autofocus only. With a focus light, I've not had any real problems getting good focus. In the absence of a focus gear for the Canon lens in the manual focus port, I tried building up the lens barrel with Velcro tape and rubber bands to that it would engage the focus nob gear. These solutions would work okay sometimes but I was never happy with it. Seems that for that kind of money, the solution should be more exact. If Subal ever offers a focus gear for the 100mm Canon macro, I'd try manual focus again.
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