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tursiops

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tursiops last won the day on July 11 2020

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About tursiops

  • Rank
    Manta Ray

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    Male

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OMD M-10
  • Camera Housing
    NA-M10
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2x YS-D1
  • Accessories
    14-42mm EZ, 30mm, 60mm, WWL-1, CMC-1

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  1. It really depends on what kind of bayonet mount. Some (like the Nauticam) have a positive lock you must press to release them.
  2. I had good luck on a similar housing (TG-4) that flooded with a good rinse with warm tap water, drying with a microfiber cloth, and letting it sit open in front of a fan in an air-conditioned room for several days. One of the problems was water soaked into the rubber shock mounts; they took a long time to dry. The desiccant packs afterwards, while diving.
  3. Hmm. haven't ever seen any that yellow! I wonder if it is another species of Tubastraea? Maybe T. aurea? Would help to know where it was taken...
  4. ?? What coral would that be?
  5. Well, the thorough explanation is much appreciated, but not much helpful, since the saltwater appears to have already dried. The horse is already out of the barn. The issue is what to do now? Let it be? Or try and polish it off? If it is mostly a cosmetic thing, let it be. If it affects IQ, then does polishing and thus removing some glass, make the IQ worse? Or the same? Or better? I know, it is a "it depends" kind of question. So what diagnostic might I use to decide whether to leave it as is, or attack it?
  6. My WWL seems to dry just fine under the hard cap, which does not fit that tightly. I prefer it to maintaining a wet neoprene cover over the lenses, and the hard cap give better protection for handing the camera up to a boat crew.
  7. I appreciate all the posts on this subject. Now that I'm getting ready to dive again, my interest is renewed on what a good approach is. Like Chris Ross, I'm concerned about removing the desirable coatings from the WWL-1. So my question is: Is my image quality harmed more by losing the coating, or by leaving the watermarks on the lens?
  8. I had to do this. The cost was about half the cost of a new lens. Then i scratched it again...thus the post that started this thread. I'm just living with it this time....
  9. Your picture does not validate that ID for me. Do you have others?
  10. Knowing the size would be nice, and the depth. Lacking that, I'd say likely a Star Coral, perhaps a smooth Star. Definitely not a sponge...no outlet holes for the water flow. I don't suppose you possibly touched it to see if it was hard or soft?
  11. Need some scale and overall morphology to ID this. Your title is Great Star; is that a question?
  12. It is too late to enter, but you can vote on your favorites! Go to https://www.reef.org/2020-underwater-photography-contest-voting and vote for your favorites in each of five categories.
  13. "36135 (macro port 45) + 36620 (mini extension ring 20) - Used for Oly 60mm macro." This combo is a little long....65mm total, and you only need 56. You could help yourself by using the 17mm extension ring 36617 rather than the 20mm, but that still only gets you down to 62mm. What you'd lose would be your 14mm wideangle end; the 42mm telephoto end is still fine. Why do you have a 36135 port? I thought that only fit the 30mm macro lens? Do you want more telephoto than 30mm but less than 60?
  14. I haven't got enough hands to manipulate a triple clamp underwater....much less three of them!
  15. How do you know he is feeding on krill? Aren't krill midwater and the melibes are bottom scrapers?
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