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tursiops

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tursiops last won the day on July 11 2020

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About tursiops

  • Rank
    Manta Ray

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  • Gender
    Male

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OMD M-10
  • Camera Housing
    NA-M10
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2x YS-D1
  • Accessories
    14-42mm EZ, 30mm, 60mm, WWL-1, CMC-1

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  1. tursiops
    KLM flies daily to Bonaire from AMS, sometimes through Aruba.
  2. tursiops
    I have a WWL-1 with the hard cap. I drilled a couple of holes in the side of the cap so I could put a short paracord loop on it, with the two ends knotted on the inside, and the loop on the outside. Once in the water, i remove the cap and clip it off to a waist d-ring with a double-ender. I never know it is there. I clip it back on before exiting.
  3. tursiops
    I think I'll try and add a yellow filter to the camera lens....the 14-42 EZ Zoom. I hate being committed for a full dive like that, but it is probably the best solution. If the lens zooms out too far and hits the port, I'll just back off a little. What color yellow is best to block the FIX NEO BLUE?
  4. tursiops
    Hmm, not sure how to do that. The WWL-1 is on a bayonet mount.
  5. tursiops
    No room. The lens front comes right out to the port. Good suggestion, though.
  6. tursiops
    Ok, you both confirm my guesses and fears. Thanks. Here is the problem: I'd like to try using my WWL-1 for some fluorophotography, but don't know how to get a yellow filter big enough to put in front of it. I may have to drop back to other lenses...
  7. tursiops
    I am probably going to get a FIX NEO Blue head for my light, for some fluoro photography. Rather than use yellow filters on the camera to block the blue light, can I block the blue in post-processing? (I'd still use a yellow filter on my mask so I can see what I am taking a picture of....)
  8. tursiops
    It really depends on what kind of bayonet mount. Some (like the Nauticam) have a positive lock you must press to release them.
  9. tursiops
    I had good luck on a similar housing (TG-4) that flooded with a good rinse with warm tap water, drying with a microfiber cloth, and letting it sit open in front of a fan in an air-conditioned room for several days. One of the problems was water soaked into the rubber shock mounts; they took a long time to dry. The desiccant packs afterwards, while diving.
  10. tursiops
    Hmm. haven't ever seen any that yellow! I wonder if it is another species of Tubastraea? Maybe T. aurea? Would help to know where it was taken...
  11. tursiops
    ?? What coral would that be?
  12. tursiops
    Well, the thorough explanation is much appreciated, but not much helpful, since the saltwater appears to have already dried. The horse is already out of the barn. The issue is what to do now? Let it be? Or try and polish it off? If it is mostly a cosmetic thing, let it be. If it affects IQ, then does polishing and thus removing some glass, make the IQ worse? Or the same? Or better? I know, it is a "it depends" kind of question. So what diagnostic might I use to decide whether to leave it as is, or attack it?
  13. tursiops
    My WWL seems to dry just fine under the hard cap, which does not fit that tightly. I prefer it to maintaining a wet neoprene cover over the lenses, and the hard cap give better protection for handing the camera up to a boat crew.
  14. tursiops
    I appreciate all the posts on this subject. Now that I'm getting ready to dive again, my interest is renewed on what a good approach is. Like Chris Ross, I'm concerned about removing the desirable coatings from the WWL-1. So my question is: Is my image quality harmed more by losing the coating, or by leaving the watermarks on the lens?
  15. tursiops
    I had to do this. The cost was about half the cost of a new lens. Then i scratched it again...thus the post that started this thread. I'm just living with it this time....
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