tursiops

I haven't got enough hands to manipulate a triple clamp underwater....much less three of them!

How do you know he is feeding on krill? Aren't krill midwater and the melibes are bottom scrapers?

Two things: 1 - I use float arms for the bulk of the additional buoyancy needed, because (a) they dry MUCH faster for traveling home, and (b) they are more convenient than Stix floats for using. 2 - I tune up the needed buoyancy with a couple of Stix floats on the outer arms. Easy to add-on and remove just a couple. This also allows some adjustment for salt/fresh, which is only 3%, hardly enough to worry about so long as you are ballasted slightly negative for salt.

It amazes me, however, that when the media directly quote or link to the primary sources, like CDC or WHO, that the information is suddenly deemed false.

Pure BS, unless you mean it is being ignored and downplayed for political service.

Into Truk from where?

For non-cold water I don't wear mine over my wetsuit, but rather on my arm, and just fold back the wetsuit sleeve so I can see it. I can put the wetsuit on or off without removing the computer; mine is not a D5, but is the same size. I tried the computer on my rig, but was never able to see it as well as on my wrist. And I don't always have the camera...a lot, but not always. I prefer the consistency of always having the computer in the same place.

What's wrong with putting it on your wrist?

Yes, been using the blacks in my two YS-D1s for several years. Have 16, use 2x4 at a time while the others are charging. Can get a day of use of of one set befor changing them, but typially change them when I change the camera battery after two dives.

What airport did you fly into?

Contact Force-E or Pura Vida and tell them you want to hire a private photo guide.

On a photography forum it is suprising you don't know how to resize a photo!

Following. I'd really like to know most of this too.

They are only $630 new, shipped, and no complaint about PayPal fees. Maybe you need to lower your price if you really need to sell it.

The technique is a "forward" calculation that tries to use the inherent optical properties of the water to calculate what the water does to the light passing through it. It tries to estimate those optical properties by using pictures at various distances so as to "calibrate" the estimates. Conversely, when we photographers "white balance" something, we do the "inverse" problem, not the "forward" problem. We pick something in our single image that we know to be "white" or "neutral gray" and force it to be white or gray in our image; so we are not calculating what the water does to our image, we are forcing the final result to be "correct." In principle, if everything in our image were the same distance from the camera, we should get the same result as a correctly-done forward calculation. But our image has things at various distances from the camera, so we ought to have a white-balance methodology that is different for each part of the image...each pixel, in fact. then we would converge to the fancy forward solution, except probably better, because the inherent optical properties are not all know, they change with time and depth, and the calculations are difficult.