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Posts posted by tursiops

  1. 5 minutes ago, ChrisRoss said:

    You could screw an M67 filter to the port then the bayonet adapter to the filter ring.  Be fiddly to do as you have to clear air bubbles.  It will probably vignette though due to extra distance to the WWL and you would lose the widest angles.

    I think I'll try and add a yellow filter to the camera lens....the 14-42 EZ Zoom. I hate being committed for a full dive like that, but it is probably the best solution. If the lens zooms out too far and hits the port, I'll just back off a little.

    What color yellow is best to block the FIX NEO BLUE?

  2. 9 minutes ago, ChrisRoss said:

    The water spotting I believe is caused by letting sea water dry on the lens, as the water evaporates the concentration of salts increases and sea water is alkaline so the pH would also increase.  High pH can cause etching of glass eventually. You see that in chemical labs, many solutions are stored in bottles with ground glass stoppers - but strongly alkaline solutions were always stoppered with rubber or plastic.

    Increased concentration of salts during evaporation or even high concentration of volatile compounds like ammonia or hydrogen sulphide during condensation is well recognised as a corrosion mechanism in industrial situations.  The solution is always dilution or preventing the concentration getting into the corrosive range.  The same applies to glass

    This is where neoprene comes into play - it keeps the surface of the lens wet until such time as you can soak it - any drying occurs on the surface of the neoprene and that is where high concentrations of salt would occur,  not on the glass surface.  I always put a lens cap on my flat ports and cover the housing with a damp towel between dives and when going home - it prevents sea water drying out on the surface..  Domes are always fitted with wet neoprene cover.  After soaking blow water off with a blower bulb and mop up residual water with a micro fibre cloth and polish.

    Nauticam dome ports advertise they use an anti scratch coating on the exterior of their domes - I would assume this also occurs on the the wet optics.  The coating might be hard but may or may not be more resistant to etching, either way DONT LET SALTWATER DRY ON YOUR OPTICS!


    Well, the thorough explanation is much appreciated, but not much helpful, since the saltwater appears to have already dried. The horse is already out of the barn.

    The issue is what to do now? Let it be? Or try and polish it off? If it is mostly a cosmetic thing, let it be. If it affects IQ, then does polishing and thus removing some glass, make the IQ worse? Or the same? Or better? I know, it is a "it depends" kind of question. So what diagnostic might I use to decide whether to leave it as is, or attack it?

  3. Knowing the size would be nice, and the depth. Lacking that, I'd say likely a Star Coral, perhaps a smooth Star. Definitely not a sponge...no outlet holes for the water flow. I don't suppose you possibly touched it to see if it was hard or soft?

  4. "36135 (macro port 45) + 36620 (mini extension ring 20) - Used for Oly 60mm macro."

    This combo is a little long....65mm total, and you only need 56. You could help yourself by using the 17mm extension ring 36617 rather than the 20mm, but that still only gets you down to 62mm. What you'd lose would be your 14mm wideangle end; the 42mm telephoto end is still fine.

    Why do you have a 36135 port? I thought that only fit the 30mm macro lens? Do you want more telephoto than 30mm but less than 60?

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  5. Two things:

    1 - I use float arms for the bulk of the additional buoyancy needed, because (a) they dry MUCH faster for traveling home, and (b) they are more convenient than Stix floats for using.

    2 - I tune up the needed buoyancy with a couple of Stix floats on the outer arms. Easy to add-on and remove just a couple. This also allows some adjustment for salt/fresh, which is only 3%, hardly enough to worry about so long as you are ballasted slightly negative for salt. 


  6. 20 hours ago, Captain Fathom said:

    When I say weaponized I do not mean deliberate spread, I mean that an unfortunate circumstance is being used for political purpose. And that is not BS. It is very difficult for normal people to make reasonable decisions when so much of the news media is providing false or deliberately hyped information. I am going to go to the WHO and CDC, not NBC or MSNBC, for information. 




    It amazes me, however, that when the media directly quote or link to the primary sources, like CDC or WHO, that the information is suddenly deemed false.

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