Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by tursiops

  1. For non-cold water I don't wear mine over my wetsuit, but rather on my arm, and just fold back the wetsuit sleeve so I can see it. I can put the wetsuit on or off without removing the computer; mine is not a D5, but is the same size. I tried the computer on my rig, but was never able to see it as well as on my wrist. And I don't always have the camera...a lot, but not always. I prefer the consistency of always having the computer in the same place.
  2. What's wrong with putting it on your wrist?
  3. Yes, been using the blacks in my two YS-D1s for several years. Have 16, use 2x4 at a time while the others are charging. Can get a day of use of of one set befor changing them, but typially change them when I change the camera battery after two dives.
  4. Contact Force-E or Pura Vida and tell them you want to hire a private photo guide.
  5. On a photography forum it is suprising you don't know how to resize a photo!
  6. They are only $630 new, shipped, and no complaint about PayPal fees. Maybe you need to lower your price if you really need to sell it.
  7. The technique is a "forward" calculation that tries to use the inherent optical properties of the water to calculate what the water does to the light passing through it. It tries to estimate those optical properties by using pictures at various distances so as to "calibrate" the estimates. Conversely, when we photographers "white balance" something, we do the "inverse" problem, not the "forward" problem. We pick something in our single image that we know to be "white" or "neutral gray" and force it to be white or gray in our image; so we are not calculating what the water does to our image, we are forcing the final result to be "correct." In principle, if everything in our image were the same distance from the camera, we should get the same result as a correctly-done forward calculation. But our image has things at various distances from the camera, so we ought to have a white-balance methodology that is different for each part of the image...each pixel, in fact. then we would converge to the fancy forward solution, except probably better, because the inherent optical properties are not all know, they change with time and depth, and the calculations are difficult.
  8. I too bought a non-Nauticam tray and handles after my Flexitray broke.
  9. It appears to be more like the WWL-1 than like "most of the other wide angle lenses." And the WWL-1 is unique among wet lenses in NOT having the corner softness problem.
  10. Now THIS is interesting! https://reefphoto.com/products/wet-wide-lens-for-compact-cameras-wwl-c-130-deg-fov-with-compatible-24mm-lenses
  11. Definitely not coral. Almost certainly a hydroid. Size? Did you touch it, did it sting?
  12. I missed that post. Link, or post again. I still am unable to navigate this new version of Wetpixel.
  13. My wife is a fish geek.....she also thinks it is a juv graysby. See this for example: https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/photo/graysby-royalty-free-image/832513138
  14. #3 looks like a piece of broken off red sponge.
  15. I'm on travel with my OM10 and two lens. The 14-42mm just failed. I'm not keen on spending 2 weeks in Bonaire shooting only macro with my 30mm. What happens if I use the 30mm with my WWL-1?
  16. Seems reasonable, but it depends on what you like to shoot underwater. The 16-35 with a dome will do fine for wideangle stuff, but if there is that fish you want to capture it might be frustrating. Also, snorkeling, the smaller the camera the better, at least for me. So I'd be tempted to stick with the RX100!
  17. The tray can be used with the add-on piece on the left ir the right, whatever works best for you.
  18. Agreed. I've got 5 years on my two D1s, one of which was purchased used. No issues. The "zero dollars" comment is likely related to a broken one....if there are no parts and thus not repairable it is wirth nothing.
  19. I've owned the 12-50 zoom with its special port, the 60mm macro and the 30mm macro. They all serve their purpose, but the 60mm macro is VERY nice! It will fit in the 12-50 port...new new port needed. It is the lens of choice for small stuff, like in Anilao and Lembeh. If the 60mm is too much power, the 30mm is very nice, and focusses really quickly, but will need a different port. For macro, I think both the dedicated macro lens are sharper than the 43mm macro setting on the 12-50 zoom, but that 43 is a very useful power.
  20. I have two arms on each side. My braided handle is attached at the middle clamp on each side so when the camera is lifted/carried the arms closest to the camera are holding the camera. I've also rigged mine with the braided handle clipped to the tops of the tray sides, but with the braided piece also clipped to the mid-point of the arms, as in the attached picture. This keeps the arms from swinging around while the camera is carried. I like this method, and am going to stick with it, I think. it is easy to unclip the arms from the braid after I'm in the water, or to clip it back before I exit.
  21. Is this advice in metric? What is the source of this advice; I've never heard it before, and it contradicts some other guidelines like PADI, which says (for a 7mm wetsuit in salt water) 10% of body weight PLUS 1.5-3kg. Conversion to fresh water (the OP's "lakes and reservoirs") then means subtracting about 3.5% of the body weight. So the PADI guideline for a 7mm in fresh water would be 6.5% of body weight, PLUS 1.5-3kg. Example: 80kg person would need 5.2kg plus 1.5-3kg, so 6.7 to 8.2kg. The OP's in-water test with 6 lbs was way too little; 15-18 lbs would be closer to the guideline. I'd run the test again, varying the weight a lot. Interestingly, your "weight divided by 10, minus 1" gives the same answer for someone who weighs about 92kg.... The point is, the buoyancy of the 7mm wetsuit is what is important, but the actual weight needed depends on the volume of neoprene in it, which is correlated with body weight, and depends on salt or fresh water. I agree completely that all these calculations are only guidelines, and in-water tests are the only number to believe.
  22. I get close with the S-AF on a thumb button, then fine-tune wuth the wheel. I was confused. My 30mm zoom gear is Nauticam and of course works fine. The 60mm gear is 3D printed but not by Deepshots; it slips fore-and-aft, and has no set screws.
  • Create New...