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Everything posted by tursiops

  1. I think on an Inon I'd use them too. But not on a Sea&Sea...too many stories of overheating. But my post was primarily about heat transfer modes and the trivial amount provided by radiation versus conduction and especially convection.
  2. Think of it as a wetsuit. The cooling is by convection, not conduction or radiation. The cover prevents flow of water over the surface so convection is inhibited. It doesn't matter if the neoprene is wet or not.....either way it prevents water from flowing over the strobe, so inhibits convection. The thicker the cover, the more that conduction is inhibited....same as a wetsuit. So heat removal from the strobe by both convection and cobnduction is inhibited by a thick cover. I took my Sea&Sea covers off.....the last think I need is for them to get too hot from repeated firing. The only good reason for them is to prevent scratches. I'd rather have the strobe cooled....
  3. You are perhaps too sensitive or too defensive, I can't tell which. The poster had a problem with an old catalog and a dead computer. Posting about making XMP files is indeed not helpful for his specific problem, although I have now set up my LR to make such files routinely; thanks for that. (I note that neither you or I found out about such files from Adobe...) Posting about calling Adobe is prima fascia good advice, but I'll wager that for everyone who has called Adobe and got a knowledgeable tech like troporobo did, there are 50 of us who found it a frustrating waste of time.
  4. He last signed in on May 21....guess he isn't very interested in selling.
  5. The touchscreen is not touchable when the camera is in a housing. The menu is necessary. But the buttons and rings work in most housings so you really don't need the menu for the most common changes, like f-stop and shutter speed.
  6. Some great info above. One thing I think has not been said is that you can do some decent video with the TG-5/6, so for "tier 1" I consider the TG-5/6 as the much more versatile choice. GoPro would be only the choice if you want to do wide-angle video only.
  7. I guess he is not really very interested.
  8. I still have this. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64190
  9. Check with Mike Veitch, Luca Vaime, and Miho Takeda at Underwater Tribe, in Bali. info@underwatertribe.com
  10. I have the M77 flip (# 25103); it fits the 12-50mm macro port, but holds 67mm lenses. I'm confused by this. Aren't we talking about either the CMC-1 or the WWL-1, not both together? What do you mean, "You can’t use wwl-1 bare port and cmc-1"?
  11. I would not want to handle the WWL-1 underwater, one-handed, without its float collar. With the collar, the diameter is 170mm or a bit more. A pocket probably isn't going to work, unless you are a kangaroo.
  12. I'm talking about the Olympus M.Zuiko digital ED 14-42mm EZ, not the older kit-lens IIR. https://reefphoto.com/collections/olympus-lenses/products/olympus-m-zuiko-ed-m-14-42mm-f-3-5-5-6-ez-iii Yes, that's the port. You also need the zoom gear. As a package, it is $800. https://reefphoto.com/collections/nauticam-ports/products/macro-port-and-zoom-gear-set-for-olympus-m-zuiko-digital-ed-12-50mm-f3-5-6-3-ez
  13. Yes, I used that combo...12-50mm plus WWL-1. I used the bayonet mount for the 12-50mm which accepts the WWL-1 directly, with no additional vignetting beyond what you get with the 12-50mm/port anyway. I no longer use the 12-50mm (moved to the 14-42mm and dedicated 30mm and 60mm) but still have the bayonet mount for the 12-50 if you are interested.
  14. Is the problem just Eneloops, or is it all NiMH rechargeables? If the latter, what is suggested to use instead? I do NOT want to go to disposable alkalines....
  15. You've moved the goalposts enough that it is hard to beat the TG-6 and Olympus housing.....the prime criteria now seem to be price and size. I hope you can be satisfied with the picture quality and operating limitations of that system.
  16. I'm fairly confident the WWL-1 will fit. I'm not at all confident that it will stay open while diving, or that the lens will stay out of the way of controls and hand-grips. In fact, even though I own all the pieces to do this (flip, lens, etc) I've got no desire to try it. Hope it works for you! Looking forward to your report....
  17. Good question. I can see using the flip holder with the MWL-1, but NOT with the WWL-1.
  18. "Incidently, if you want a better solution than the bayonet mount system, Nauticam makes a double flip adapter with m67 thread that can be used in conjunction with the WWL-1 and the flat port. This lets you flip the WWL-1 out of the way when you don't need wide angle without worrying about where to store it and you can even have a macro diopoter on the other flip adapter to easily switch between wide angle, bare port, and macro. I believe the combination can be used with the float collar as well for best results." I find it hard to imagine the weight and inertia of the WWL-1 on a flip mount. It would have to be down when not used, I suspect, which would be really awkward for macro shots that you might be trying to take instead of wide-angle shots. It certainly can't be up, because it will keep flopping down. Does anyone ever use this?
  19. Ok, if that is what the black disc is for, then what is it that tells the fish to come back when the batteries are dead?
  20. Sorry, I do not know what I was looking at to give that info. If 22mm thinner is really important, I guess you want the TG-6, which is yet another 22mm thinner.
  21. Stop looking at pictures and look at the specs. The G7XII Fantasea housing is about 1mm larger than the G9XII housing.
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