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Everything posted by tursiops

  1. If you are going to refer to the posts of others, you might actually use their screen name instead of their avatar-critter ID (which are not unique to an individual).....or should I call you triggerfish instead of UW3D?
  2. I wish I didn't have an irrevocable conflict on those dates. It looks like a fun trip!
  3. I appreciate seeing this information. I'll be sure not to sell anything to UW3D.
  4. I will certainly remember my dives in Ambon Bay.... https://www.scubaboard.com/community/threads/fishhook-in-finger.572541/
  5. Which is a BIG reason I use two strobes; many of my pix would be adequate with just one, so this way I have a spare so as not to spoil a trip. I'm a cave diver; so "two is one, one is none."
  6. This is to point out the consistent and high quality of posts by Chris Ross in this subforum and others. He provides technical depth and experience written in a straightforward and concise way. I have learned something from all of them. They read well, they inform, they do not speak down to the questioner, and they show high regard for the subject and the people. He takes some darn good pictures, too! Others on WetPixel are also consistently helpful posters, but today, for me, Chris Ross stands out. Well Done.
  7. Try https://www.academia.edu/22570454/Does_underwater_flash_photography_affect_the_behaviour_movement_and_site_persistence_of_seahorses
  8. I own the 14-42 and the WWL-1. Awesome combination, by the way. Changing the WWL-1 underwater? Once you've done it, you will see why the bayonet mount is so desirable. The WWL-1 is a huge piece of glass and heavy...it really needs the float collar, and using the bayonet you don't need to shift your grip on it while taking it off or putting it on, with a little expereince about how to hold it. Bayonet on the WWL-1 and on your diopter, bayonet dock on the port and two docks on your arms, and there is a place for everything and you have minimized the chance of dropping something. Especially in its float collar, the WWL-1 will not fit in a "small pouch."
  9. I've been looking for the OTHER attachment, the YS-mount to Sea&Sea. I'm using the balls now, but I'm wondering if I can eliminate a couple of clamps by going YS at the strobe end. Cannot find the YS mount either. Used or new.
  10. Slightly heavy, perhaps 0.1-0.2 kg.
  11. https://reefphoto.com/collections/workshops-1/products/anilao-photo-video-workshop-may-18-25-2019 https://www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/Anilao-Philippines-Macro-Underwater-Photography-Workshop
  12. I think the RX100 housing uses a CR2032. My EM-10 housing uses a CR2450, which is almost 3 times the capacity. So your friend's 2-month endurance suggests almost 6 months for me, of continuous operation. Considering a Nauticam guy told me 5,000 h, which is about 200 days, less than 7 months, I'd say the estimates match up well! The batteries are cheap; put in a new one before each dive trip if there are any concerns.
  13. OP, or whoever purchases these, I would like to buy one of the YS mounts. Is this possible?
  14. Perhaps there could be required a FWC monitor on site for such extraordinary collections. If there is additional cost for such a monitor, then that cost is borne by the applicant. This is similar to the NOAA requirements for special permits in the National Marine Sanctuaries....
  15. My "new content" tab no longer finds any new content. Is this related to the changes announced in this thread, or do i have some other problem? Never mind. Duh. Cockpit error.
  16. The FAA/TSA rules for the US allow Li-Ion batteries that are installed in devices to be in checked luggage. It is loose batteries that must be hand-carried. See:https://www.faa.gov/about/office_org/headquarters_offices/ash/ash_programs/hazmat/passenger_info/media/Airline_passengers_and_batteries.pdf Q2. What kinds of batteries does the FAA allow in checked baggage (including gate-checked bags)? A2. Except for spare (uninstalled) lithium metal and lithium-ion batteries, all the batteries allowed in carry-on baggage are also allowed in checked baggage. The batteries must be protected from damage and short circuit or installed in a device. Battery-powered devices—particularly those with moving parts or those that could heat up—must be protected from accidental activation. Spare lithium metal and lithium ion/polymer batteries are prohibited in checked baggage—this includes external battery packs. Electronic cigarettes and vaporizers are also prohibited in checked baggage. “Checked baggage” includes bags checked at the gate or planeside.
  17. I have the Mk1. I assume they are similar. Yes, the thumb button normally to start video can be reprogrammed to be focus. Very conveniently located. Moving the AF point involves several button pushes.
  18. Your strobe won't reach very far...10 feet would be a long distance. This means a very wide-angle lens/dome (as you have) so you can get close and still get subject matter in the frame. I'm not sure I'd even worry with the strobe, but would try just ambient light...with good clear water it might be enough. The brightness above suface will be a problem, so sun angle and shadows will help. ideally, backlit for the above surface part, and ambient light below. Practice finding he exposure that does not burn out any sun-illuminated part, but still allows some non-pure black below. If you could find a stable platform, HDR would help. Low ISOs to try and get max exposure range. All those scenes you see in caves are not lit with a strobe on the camera, but rather with many strobes placed around the cave, so each one is close to what it is illuminating. Covering a large area with light is challenging. I would personally not even try it with an iceberg. I've dived in Antartica, next to an iceberg, and the u/w formations were wonderful, but they wee shot on their own, not as part of an over/under. Good luck.
  19. If you are looking for a picture like this: Forget it. It is a fake. See https://www.snopes.com/fact-check/giant-newfoundland-iceberg/.
  20. Don't even use WB. Shoot RAW and WB in post-processing. Look for a used housing, preferably Nauticam. No point is a quality camera and lens but a crappy housing.
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