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BottomTime

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BottomTime last won the day on February 25 2014

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About BottomTime

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    Wolf Eel
  • Birthday 09/05/1972

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada

Additional Info

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    Canada
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D300
  • Camera Housing
    Subal ND30
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Hartenberger 250 TTL
  1. I'm preparing to book a trip aboard the Rocio Del Mar and am looking for comments from those who have sailed aboard. I'm particularly interested in comments from those who have been aboard this boat as well as the Nautilus Explorer or the Solmar V and can provide an objective comparison of the various operations. Conversation Points that I'm keen for feedback on are; 1) Dive style? Do they like to have a DM lead "follow the leader" dive or are the dive masters there help people out, point things out but generally let people do their own thing? 2) Dive Limitations? Max dive time/depth? Do they have buddy team rules or are they generally tolerant of "same ocean, same day" buddy teams? 3) Camera care and facilities for their Maintenance. Looking at their website, their camera table looks pretty small and I never saw mention of rinse buckets. I've heard of people talking their cameras back to the room, but I'm definitely not a fan of that. Every moisture problem I've ever had with my camera was the result of taking my camera indoors. 4) Dive tanks. They only mention aluminum 80's on their website. Anyone know if they rent steel tanks? I'm part cave man, I occasionally drag my knuckles when I walk and have an adequate layer of bioprene to survive a short famine, so creature comforts are secondary to me. As long as the rooms a clean, warm and dry, I'm happy. Cheers, Mike
  2. No contest, the seacam offshore series of strobes have the deepest depth rating at 200m. However, for the cost of a pair of seacam seaflash 150O's, you're probably better off taking a pair of Inons down and risking the occasional loss of a strobe.
  3. And I do believe that this shot ( http://igviewer.com/luv_scuba/476821542745969248_9432083 ) is Uwe Schmolke's winning shot from the recent Beneath the Sea imaging contest.
  4. If I'm right, then you should still be able to use TTL, but at lower sync speeds as jlyle said. I would try a TTL shot at 1s. If your still seeing the bar at the bottom of the image then there is something wrong and my theory is bunk. It'll take a little experimentation to figure out what your max sync speed is with FO TTL. This is something that will vary from camera to camera. My nikon D70 had a preflash/main flash delay that was so long it allowed my wife to blink with 100% accuracy when I used a speed light in TTL mode. I'm guessing that your YS-D1's would have worked with the D70 just fine right up to it's maximum sync speed of 1/500s. I don't know what is most common, but Nikon dSLR's uses focal plane shutters that travel vertically and descend to expose and cover the image sensor. There are FP shutters that travel horizontally but I don't know if any are currently being used in a modern digital camera.
  5. I've heard of people having similar problems using wireless triggers. When Heinrich Weinkamp was still making TTL converters, he used to provide a (fairly comprehensive) table of strobe timings that listed the minimum time required between a pre-flash and the main flash. Inon strobes were generally in the 2000 microsecond range while my memory was that the Sea & Sea strobes were considerably longer (I think the YS-110a was ~18000 microseconds). HW provided a second list with the minimum timing requirement of the camera. The timing for the nikon's are faster than most and the D300 was around 8000 microseconds. You're D800 will be atleast as fast as that and will do it's thing without regard for strobes that can't keep up. I suspect that in your case, the rear curtain has started to close before the minimum timing for the strobe has elapsed (10000 microseconds is 1/100s). In the case of using manual powers, then the strobe ignores the preflash and the minimum timing between the pre-flash and the main flash is no longer relevant. This is all speculation freshly squeezed from my butt cheeks though. An Oscilloscope would probably be able to tell you exactly what is going on.
  6. I was once thinking of moving to housed speed lights as well so I’ll offer a couple of additional things to consider. - At 2.3s for full recycle, they are slow. - They are low power compared to most underwater strobes. I’d put them in the same range as a YS-110/DS125. - Auto FP mode reduces power further. Strobe power becomes linked to shutter speed so a faster shutter speed results in additional power losses. - You can’t use Auto FP with more than one strobe (not entirely true). - Personally, I found the light quality to be bit harsh when I looked at images taken by others with these types of strobe. This could be a function of the user though. On the flip side: - They have a focusable reflector which could potentially be used creatively to focus light where you want it (provided you don’t drop the built in diffuser panel). The fringe benefit is that the strobe has a higher GN as a result. - Full blown iTTL control (for one strobe). - Infinitely controllable strobe power. Full power to 1/128 in 1/3 stop increments. There are cases where the Auto FP will be a creative tool (See Dr. Alexander Mustard’s Anthias shot in this thread) but if you’re hoping to use it to shoot wide angle shots in shallow water on a bright sunny day while aiming directly into the sun, I think you will be disappointed.
  7. I appreciate the input on the high capacity NiMH cells. I knew there would be a performance hit on the recycle time, but the penalty is higher than I was expecting. However, I only need the fast recycle times occasionally so I think I will go ahead and build two of the packs with the 5000mah cells. How may cycles have you put on your NiMH cells and how have they been holding up? How many cycles did you get out of your NiCd's before they died? I agree with you on the NiCd and the Cd content. I still have two NiCd packs that are holding up for now, but I'm not sure what I'll replace them with. One of the principal reason I bought the Hartenbergers is for the rocket fast recycle time so I've been looking at A123's LiFePO4 cells. I've broken out the callipers and I'm pretty sure I can fit 4 26650's inside the battery compartment (just barely). That will give a 12.8V 2500mah battery pack at 1/2 the weight of the NiCd's. They have better longevity, better safety, better abuse tolerance and equivalent current abilities to the NiCd with no heavy metal problems. On the flip side, I'll have to buy new chargers and do some engineering to get them interfaced and fitted. It might be a good mid-winter tinkering project...
  8. I’m looking for input from other Hartenberger users out there who have taken the time to re-core the battery backs for their Hartenberger strobes. I currently have a pair of 250 TTLhs’ with 4 batteries. One of the batteries has died (internally shorted battery in the series) and I think another one is on its last leg. The other two are carrying ~70% capacity. As far as I can tell, the factory batteries appear to be made with Sanyo CP-2400SCR cells. They are reported to be among the best available and are capable of 60amp discharge rates, but I haven’t been overly impressed with their longevity. I’ve probably put ~ 200 cycles through mine in the past 3.5 years. As a result, I’m now looking at re-coring with NiMH cells. Some of the new cells are up to 4500mah and can pulse discharge at rates up to 50amps. I know at least one of you out there has done the same. What type of cells did you use? Who did you have assemble the packs? Cheers, Mike
  9. When it comes to wired communication, Sea & Sea has never adopted any of the newer TTL protocols (iTTL/E-TTL). They continue to work with the old analogue specification. This is why Sea & Sea builds their TTL converters; to convert the native iTTL/E-TTL instructions of the camera to the analogue instructions that the strobes still work with. This is true of Inon and Ikelite as well. AFAIK, the only flashes that support iTTL/E-TTL natively are some of the Seacam seaflashes. There are a couple of others (Hartenberger & Subtronic) that can have a converter installed inside the flash head.
  10. What are you saying? Are you suggesting that a sample size of 2 is insufficient? BLASPHEMY!!!! Though I do admit, "Mommy Instincts" are a powerful force to be reckoned with, every good psuedoscientist knows that all you need is one piece of inferential evidence and a bag of magic chicken bones or a good Ouija board to crack the code.
  11. The YS-110 should work with your F100 and TTL flash exposure. Your YS-D1 should work with your F100 as well. Pretty much all strobes that accept a hardwired connection should work with the nikonos TTL specification. I used to use a pair of YS-110's with my F90x when I was still shooting film. The easiest way to tell if your YS-110's are working properly with your F100 is to look at the ready light on the strobe. I no longer have my YS-110's, but my memory is that the ready light should change from red to green if TTL was utilized successfully. If it is not, then you will need to figure out if it is the camera, the cables, the strobes or the user which is the source of the error.
  12. This is a good read - Open access: The true cost of science publishingThe author mentioned the rejection rate for a couple of different journals in the body of the article. I dont know if most of the journals advertise their acceptance/rejection rate, but I would love it if they did. However, for me, it doesnt really matter. At the end, I think it is the responsibility of the reader to critically evaluate any material they read. Just because its published doesnt mean it is right. I read Dr. Domeier most recent paper and I would say that there are some holes. But my criticisms revolve around the statistically insignificant dataset of 4 individuals and would argue that he needs more data to support his theory. This means more tagging. I would also argue that it means SPOT tags as positional quality from PAT tags is inadequate and the tags dont stay put long enough. However, the kind of data that Dr. Domeier needs also raises concerns around the potential damage the methods may inflict on the shark. I read the paper in PLOS ONE and agree with Drew. There is real evidence that suggests damage is being done if tags stay in place long term. Fortunately/unfortunately we are generating a lot more new data on this subject. I only hope that someone is collecting this data and that it will be presented in a SCIENTIFIC fashion. Indeed, Dr Domeier now has 3 new subjects (F6, F77 & F100) from his study that have carried SPOT tags for 2 years (F98 is presumed dead). I agree with everything you said but I disagree if your conclusion is that they should be stopped. My mistrust isnt evidence and not liking them isnt a reason to shut them down. Because CF has such an affinity for the limelight, there are a lot of people watching and every slip, real or perceived, is going to be caught. So, if you can not find evidence to prove a theory (That Ocearch is all/mostly bad), at what point do you accept that the theory might not be correct? I would love to see Ocearch change their ways. To my eye, the outward appearances of the methods that Dr. Domeier outlines on his website are more appealing. But this is a personal bias of mine as Ive always aspired to the alpinist philosophy of light, lean, fast and efficient. Ive never been a fan of the brute force; mass over might philosophy (even the words I use illustrate my bias). But, there is no evidence at this point to suggest that it is in fact better. I could also argue that Dr Domeier doesnt have full control of that shark (in the picture on his website), which puts him, his staff and that shark at risk. Until we have data, we only have philosophies, feelings and theories. Im a data guy. Mike PS. Spider woman suit underwater... you win.
  13. I have been out of academia for a long time now but my memory was that most of the journals were "pay to publish" and the more prestigious the Journal, the more it was going to cost you to publish.
  14. ahhh yes. Nothing quite like watching the monkeys throw poo at each other
  15. FS: one lightly use spider man suit. $1,000,000 OBO Phew, that was a close one! http://unrealitymag.bcmediagroup.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/fat-spiderman3.jpg
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