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Everything posted by UWPhotoTech

  1. I currently have three in stock and we're only a couple of hours away!
  2. Make sure your eyepiece rubber and lcd protector are removed and try diving with the housing and camera without a strobe attached and see if the problem is still there. Assuming the problem will not appear with the strobe case detached then I suspect an erratic connection or cross communication between the strobe and the camera. We seen some quirky sync connection problems that only occur at depth with the D70 and the D2X.
  3. I have no experience with photoworkshop.com, but if you're looking to hone your underwater photography skills with online courses then I'd recommend The Underwater Photographer
  4. If cleaning the B/L (body / lens, top inside of lens mount) contact does not help the problem is most likely the FEE (minimum aperture switch) located just outside the lens mount in about the 7 O'Clock postion. The plastic tab is easily broken with incorrect lens installation. Also poor contact of the FEE switch can cause this problem. Less likely is the connections of the B/L flexible circuit and even less likely is the AF board.
  5. Hi Mick, You'll have no problem at all with the 18453 extension ring, enjoy!
  6. Are you using Lexar cards, there's been an issue with some Lexar cards and Canon DSLR's. Eric posted some information on this a few weeks ago.
  7. Actually, soak it in white vinegar first then use the alcohol to clean out the white vinegar. The white vinegar will sometimes eat the corrosion.
  8. The Aquatica site does not list the proper Shade or Extension ring for the 10-22 lens. The information I posted is correct. Extension Ring 18461 and Dome Shade 18480. The Zoom Gear is 18706. When the 10-22 was first shipping we were setting them up similar to the Nikon 12-24 lens using the same Zoom Gear and the same Extension Ring. Aquatica has since developed a specific gear and extension ring for the 10-22. The listing for the Dome Shade is simply a typographical error, we generally don't use the 18482 Shade with lenses wider than 17mm.
  9. Hi Joe, Sorry to hear about the problems. It does sound like you've done the proper troubleshooting. The erratic nature of this problem leads me towards an cord problem, even though you've already tried all three. As Kasy suggested, if possible borrow another brand strobe and cord, program the ROC control to that strobe and retest the system.
  10. The Canon 60/2.8 Macro is also an IF (Internal Focussing) lens and focusses much faster than the Sigma Lens. It can also be used in a much shorter port (if available for your housing) as there is no extension to the lens as it focusses down to 1:1. The Sigma lens will degrade in focus speed over it's lifetime, especially with heavy usage. It will also develop a raspy noise to the focus mechanism. Both of these symptoms are due to lack of lubrication in the AF drive mechanism.
  11. You are of course correct, if my memory serves the extension ring for the 10-22 is slightly shorter than the 12-24 ring. But when the 10-22 first started shipping we were setting up with the 12-24 extension ring AND also using the 12-24 zoom gear and getting excellent results.
  12. Configuration for Sigma 12-24 Lens in Subal Housings: Dome Port FE2 Extension Ring 40 (EXR-40 or EXRX-40) No Zoom Gear Required (Zoom Drive fits against Rubber Zoom Ring on Lens) No Diopter Lens is Required Installation: Install camera in housing Install Extension Ring onto housing Pass Lens through Extension Ring and "carefully" mount onto camera Install Dome Port FE2 Note: Using EXRX-40 (wider aperture) will simplify the installation process.
  13. You should be using Extension Ring 18461 and the 18480 Fisheye Dome Shade. If you still vignet with the 18480 Dome Shade then remove the shade. The extension ring is absolutely necessary. You may also wish to consider a +2 Diopter Lens. As Stephen mentioned you will obtain the best results with smaller apertures.
  14. What housing are you using this with? Once this is known an extension ring recommendation can be made.
  15. Sometimes shopping for the lowest price isn't the most cost effective way to purchase equipment when you're first starting out. It appears that you'll need some guidance in setting up this system, so I'd advise contacting one of the Wetpixel sponsors for the purchase of the housing and it's accessories. I'd recommend contacting Ryan from Reef Photo & Video, he's a Wetpixel Sponsor, an Ikelite Dealer and a knowledgeable guy. You'll find him listed in the Sponsors banner section on all Wetpixel pages.
  16. Congratulations to James & Sarah! Many Happy years together!
  17. These settings are for use without the external strobe. When you get your external strobe I can post the settings required. No need to confuse matters.
  18. First I'd recommend adding an external strobe kit they are available from Epoque, Inon & Sea & Sea. It will dramatically improve your underwater photos. For your camera Canon has some useful information on their website at: http://www.canon.co.jp/Imaging/uwphoto/index-e.html Specific Settings for your Canon A70: Press the FUNC Button and set: White Balance to Auto (AWB) ISO to 100 Resolution to L (Largest) Press the MENU button and set: Red Eye OFF AF Assist Beam OFF Digital Zoom OFF Review (time) 10 Seconds Save Settings Set the Exposure Mode Dial to A (Aperture on Shooting Mode Dial) Set the Aperture to f/8.0 (Press Set & then Left / Right button) Set the Flash to Always Fire (Broken Arrow Only Flash / Up Button) Shooting Procedure: Press Shutter Button down slowly until the Indicator Lights next to the Viewfinder are Lit. Camera is now in Focus and Flash is Ready to fire. When the shot is composed as you like press down fully on the Shutter Button. NOTE: Use Macro Mode if you can't focus on something that's very close. Remember to position your strobe to light the subject fully and never aim the strobe parallel with the lens. HTH
  19. Let me know your system configuration and I'd be glad to help out. I'm assuming the Canon WP-DC700 waterproof case, but do you have an external strobe? If so, which one?
  20. Make sure you're aligning the on/off switch properly and remove the eyepiece rubber and the lcd protector before installing the camera in the housing.
  21. Many of the photographers I'd choose were already mentioned, but here's three more: Marty Snyderman Stan Waterman Mauricio Handler
  22. Small correction: I had a couple of these on my bench this morning, and took a closer look. The black collar does not need to be attached to the rubber faced wheel first. Just assemble the E-Ring, Spring, Black Collar and Rubber faced wheel and tighten as discussed above. Arnold at Subal was out all last week and Sigrid is out all this week. They're a very small family operation, emails get a little backed up when one of them is out of the office.
  23. The photo shows what is normally the shutter speed control and it's assembled correctly. E-Ring first, Spring, Black Collar, Rubber Faced Wheel with locking screw. As I mentioned in the post above the locking screw should not be tightened completely. The correct procedure is to put some loctite on the threads of the locking screw, turn it in until it bottoms out and then back off about 1/4 turn. It's easier to install the rubber faced wheel on the black collar first and align the hole for the locking screw through both. Then install as an assembly with the locking screw in place as well. HTH
  24. Please post a photo of the items and the shaft and I should be able to help. If it's the same as the ND10 Housing then it's spring, gear, rubber faced ring with locking screw. FYI, the locking screw is not tightened down completely and loctite must be used to seal the screw in place. There should be movement (against the spring tension) of the rubber faced ring. Look at the shutter speed control in the back 1/2 of the housing shell. This control is similar to the aperture control, less the gear.
  25. Mark is correct, ROC should not affect shutter release. The early Titan D100's did not have the adjustment on the shutter release this was added about six months after the initial release. Also the Focus Button on the housing can be reprogrammed to allow different functions and can affect af perfomance. First test: Does the camera operate normally in normal land use. Second test: Mount the camera to the housing tray with the shoe connector installed and check operation without installing it in the housing. If both of the above test OK the problem is either the shutter release adjustment as originally mentioned or the programming of the focus button. You can remove the right grip from the housing to confirm that the focus button programming is the problem. If you isolate the problem to the right grip, please check the Titan D100 manual on how to reset the programming of the focus button. If the manual is not available I can look it up for you and post it here. Finally if none of this works, I'd recommend contacting Light & Motion Technical Support at: support@lightandmotion.com
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