UWPhotoTech

It works with the Nikon Coolpix 5000 only. It's a well made housing that performs well, but the write speed on the CP5000 is very slow especially in RAW mode.

As Terry mentioned we can remove the tripod collar for you. Cost would most likely be around $100. I have been factory trained by Nikon USA.

My apologies if this has already been adressed but IMHO a critical difference between the 20D and the XT or the Digital Rebel (300D or 350D) is that the 300D & 350D have only a single command dial. This means a button must be pressed and held to access the aperture setting in manual mode, making aperture control a two step process. This alone is enough of a reason for me to choose the 20D over the Rebels. Also the size of the camera is an issue for me, I find the Rebel XT to bee too small for my average size hands. Personally I prefer the way the controls layout with housed Nikon systems as opposed to Canon systems. So given a choice I'd pick the D70 over the Rebels, but if my choices were Canon systems only I'd choose the 20D over the Rebels.

We got our first shipment of Canon 60/2.8 EFS Macro USM Lenses in recently. This lens is Internal Focusing, there is no extension to the lens from Infinity to 1:1 Macro. With the Subal FP-90 port and Aquatica's or Sea & Sea's Standard Macro Ports at 1:1 this lens focuses at about 3/4" (19mm) in front of the port glass. Strobe positioning with this lens and standard macro ports will be interesting! New Subal setups should probably use the FP-68 port or maybe even the FP-54 port as this will offer a little more working distance.

LED's not lighting on the Titan D100 are caused by pushing on the LED Display. The connector legs on the LED Board to the Main PCB lift away from the board from the pressure. The connector legs simply need to be resoldered. It will be good to have a backup tray anway, but I would certainly get the original board fixed. Unless this is a warranty exchange of course.

The routing of the hot shoe cord from the tray up to the hot shoe can sometimes cause this problem. The cord can block the input window on the tray from receiving the infrared signals from the fiber optic cords. Make sure the cord is routed away from the lens mount on the camera and once installed in the housing lift the cord slack above the hot shoe so the cord does not show through the LCD window. If this does not help you can test the handles by removing them and pointing them into the lens of any video camera. You will be able to see the infrared signal on the video camera display, it will look like a blue flashing light. I have seen a few bad switches in the grips.

First try resetting all of your Custom Functions through the Menu. If that does not solve the problem then check for a stuck or shorted control button.

The ULCS Base Adapter Plates you'll need are called BA-TP and sell for $13.95 each.

With a DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex) when you look through the viewfinder you are looking through the lens via a prism and mirror mechanism. You are seeing almost exactly what the image sensor sees, just a slightly smaller area (in most cameras). There are no paralax error issues to deal with.

I agree with Jean (as usual) house your current Sony. The S&S DX-3100 was on the market for a short period of time, recalled and then quickly discontinued. While nice in concept it had no zoom capbility and used Smart Media memory cards.

Good News! Although the LCD is larger on the D70s the camera's dimensions are the same as the D70 and there does not appear to be any changes in button locations. So current D70 housings should work with the D70s.

On the Subal D70 you can have two N5 Bulkheads but the connectors they plug into are not both 5 Pin. One is 5 Pin and one is 3 Pin. So even thought you have two 5 Pin bulkheads you most likely don't have all 5 pins functional on the second bulkhead. To enable all 5 pins at both bulkheads the second synch socket must be hard wired into the 5 pin connector on the board inside the housing. You can also use a Y-Cord or adapter off the first bulkhead which is wired N5. If you're not comfortable making the wiring change and your Subal dealer should be able to assist you or I'd be glad to help out.

There are separate synch cords for Sea & Sea and Nikonos types in both Y and Single cords. So for a Sea & Sea camera you use a Sea & Sea type cord and for a Nikonos type camera or housing you use a Nikonos (N5) type.

Your information is correct the Sea & Sea Gear listed in their chart will not work. We can fabricate a custom zoom gear for you, contact me for information. The SX Extension ring with the Fisheye Dome port is the correct setup, adding a +2 Diopter lens will help with the corner sharpness.

My contacts at Nikon are all in the service end of the business, so they're the last to hear things. No word at all on a D80, D90, D200 or whatever it will be called. I learned a good method to determine what's coming though, search for US Trademark registrations for the registration of product names. The Nikon D2X name was registered about six months before the product announcement.

I think your probably right, I just heard from a friend at Nikon. He said the D70s will be the same image sensor with Wireless Transmission capability and a larger LCD screen.

Thanks for this posting this! I downloaded the manual for the D50, it's a few millimeters smaller in all directions than the D70. The site lists an 18-55 Kit lens, hopefully this will be priced to compete with the Canon Digital Rebel 300D. I found a post online regarding the D70s, same camera upgraded to 8MP.

This is another one of those confusing terms. By definition a hemisphere is 1/2 of a sphere but with dome ports this seams to be a misused term. For instance I found this on the British Society of Underwater Photographers site, in reference to Hemispherical Dome Ports: "Usually the more complete a hemisphere the better the optical quality...". The Aquatica 8" Dome Port does not appear to me to be a complete hemisphere, in fact it looks to be quite similar to Jean's illustration in the link I posted above.

Richard, Thanks for the reminder, there's a great post on Proper Dome Size and Placement by Jean Bruneau & Chis White located here:

It cerainly can get confusing, I've seen changes from chart to chart. You are correct Subal generally recommends the +2 Diopter with the DP-FE2. But this is just a recommendation, we suggest that you try the setup with and without the diopter lens and make your own decision. So I agree that you should experiment. The same is true for the Extension Ring, my Subal chart (Fall '04) lists the EXR-20 with the DP-FE2, once again this is a recommendation. I know many folks using the EXR-33 with the DP-FE2 and the 18-70 lens. I'd love to hear the results of your tests.

I think "triggerfish" is my current post ranking. Yes the Subal Nikon Lens Chart lists the EXR20 and No Diopter Lens with the DP-FE2 port for the Nikon 18-70DX Lens.

No I don't work for Gates, it would be kind of a long morning commute, 3,131.7 miles to be exact.

You are correct Auto 1 is the right setting. Some basic settings for a good starting point: Camera: Set the exposure mode to M (Manual) Set the ISO to 100 Set the shutter speed of 125 Set the aperture to 8.0 Strobe: Set the Mode to Auto 1 Set the Power Level 8.0 Take some great photos and have fun on your trip!

Tech Talk: Backfocus is not a problem, it's an adjustment. In a lens there two typical adjustments, front and rear. The front adjustment is a linear adjustment affecting all focal lenghts fairly equally (with more affect on the tele end) in a zoom lens. The rear adjustment, sometimes referred to as backfocus is non-linear and is used to bring the lens focus into balance from wide to tele. Rear focus affects the wide end of the range mostly and is adjusted first. Once the balance has been acheived then front focus is adjusted to bring the lens into specs. In most cases the adjustments affect each other and must be repeated a few times to get the lens as close as possible to proper focus. Many high end video lenses have a user adjustable back focus so a lens can be calibrated to different cameras by the operator. In the camera the adjustment is body focus or the depth from the image sensor (film plane) to the lens mount. The mirror angle, sub mirror angle, focus screen position & balance and af sensor position & balance also all affect the focus performance.

Weird, the 2500ma batt's should not cause this problem, see this link. Are you using the small black adapter for the YS-90 strobes or are you plugging directly into the DX-5000 housing? The small black adapter was designed to correct the erratic flash firing problem with the YS-90's.