UWPhotoTech

Taping is OK for a temporary or emergency repair but I would not recommend it for a permanent fix. First the tape tends to move as the shoe is inserted and removed from the camera. Secondly and more importantly the adhesive from the tape can easily migrate with temperature increases and cause problems inside the camera.

All pins except the Sync (X) and Ground need to removed from the hot shoe connector in the housing. The most important of which is the Ready Light contact. The pins are soldered into the shoe, if you're not comfortable with the removal yourself, we can handle this for you. Looking from the bottom of the shoe connector, here's the pin layout: X X 0 X 0 Legend: X = Remove 0 = Keep Dave Marsh

Setup is the same as the original 105mm. The 105 VR works with the Standard or Custom flat ports with Extension Ring 40. No focus gears are currently avaialble, we could fabricate a custom gear if you needed one.

Hello Alex, I generally recommend the LaCie storage products, here's a link: http://www.lacie.com/products/family.htm?id=10007 At $2,699 the LaCie S2S 2.5 TB 5 Disk RAID is a great product. http://www.lacie.com/products/product.htm?pid=10458

Alex block the Auto Sensor and the strobes will function much like the YS-90 DX's. The Auto Sensor is the larger lower sensor below the flash tube. Set the power switch to Auto 1 and adjust the output level dial to contol exposure. I'm leaving for Bonaire in a few minutes and won't have access to my email until tomorrow afternoon. Hope this works for you!

The Aquatica 5D housing can be ordered (or retrofitted) with the sync bulheads necessary to install an ETTL conversion cicuit board.

Hi Alex, Sorry for the slow response, I did not notice this question until today. The housings currently in ciculation are not the final versions. We're getting our first delivery of the "final version" from Subal this coming week.

It works, but it's forwarding to: http://www.awryinc.com/

I don't know what's up with the web site, but we've been in regular contact with the folks at DEPP handling claims this week.

Hi David, They had a small design problem and had to make some changes to the first batch. We're now told they should be shipping in about two weeks.

I'll be installing the HW ITTL Conversion in an Aquatica D200 housing this week and testing with the D2000Wn and the Z240, I will post my findings here.

Alex, you are correct once again, the knob in front of the three buttons is the flash mode control. Another advantage in having access to this control is when Henrichs ITTL Conversion board is installed. With the Rear Curtain Synch mode enabled the board goes into MTTL mode (kind of like the ROC control on the Light & Motion housings). Using the full range of the Flash Exposure Compensation AND the Exposure Compensation (Additive) you can choose the strobe output level manually.

Alex you are correct on the function for the flash mode control and lack of access to it in the housings you listed. But... the Aquatica A200 housing does have a control to access the flash mode button! As I recall the only way to access the synch modes is through the control button, not the menu.

I have not tried this on the ND2, but the "other Dave" has obviously got this working. On the ND20 I was able to mount the lens on the body in the housing, but I was unable to mount the FP-120 port onto the housing.

It works with the 120 port on the ND2, but not on the ND70, ND10 or ND20 housings.

This has been discussed in previous threads: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...indpost&p=84254 http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...indpost&p=85038

Here you go: L = Long M= Medium S = Short L L L L S S M S A photo is attached as well!

For the same reasons that Ryan has already listed I'd love to see the S6 connection adopted as an industry standard. Rather than hoping that the manufacturers are monitoring this thread those of us in the industry need to leverage our contacts to ensure that the appropriate parties are aware of this. I'll do my part...

Digging a little deeper into the Rawshooter Essentials manual I found the following: RGB Working space – this allows you to set the RGB working space and allows selection of several different options via the drop down menu. sRGB gives the best results in a non colour managed environment for most users and is the default. Adobe 1998 is the industry standard for the reprographic industry, so most professionals use this setting. Note that if you use this as your working space and do not have a colour managed environment your output file may look slightly flat. Check your working space settings in both the camera and Rawshooter and make certain they match. Stick with sRGB unless your working in a color managed environment.

I believe this has been discussed in a previous thread, I and others experienced the same problem with the freeware version of Rawshooter. The Premium version of Rawshooter Essentials combined with the optional Color Engine adds both camera and printer color profiles which are accessed through the Batch Convert tab.

According to our sales rep, the 105VR's allocation should not be as tight at the D200's and the 18-200's. With that said... we have many on order and have so far only received one!

L&M's Mod Light was a good light but had some battery issues and was discontinued back in 2004. Their Classic Focus Light is also a good light but it works with a tethered battery pod: http://www.uwimaging.com/products/classicfl/index.htm

Rand, I don't have all the pieces of the puzzle (no 105VR in stock) to test this at this time but you're scenario should work. The 2X TC should move the lens out far enough to clear the gear. BUT, It may still have a problem hitting against the mount if an extension ring is being used with your Focus Control port. AND, I have not tested MF operation yet, I'm hoping it will setup similar to the Canon 100 USM and be driven directly by the ports focus cog against the lenses grip rubber (with a minor build up of the lens grip rubber if necessary).

As I service these housings as well as sell them, I can answer the question w/o bothering the fine folks at Subal. The screw you're referring to not only holds the drive cog in place it also holds the entire knob and shaft in place. You could remove the gear, replace it with a washer so that the coil spring behind it stays in place and then secure it with the screw. But this does not sound like an ideal situation to me, you may want the gear for manual focus or zoom control with another lens. I think it's best to wait for Subal to do their testing and come up with a more workable solution.

Hi Dave, Good news that the lens will mount on the Subal D2X housing. I tried the lens on a D200 and a D70 housing and the FP-120 port would not mount at all. I did have to pull back on the Zoom/MF gear quite a bit to install the lens on the body. The cog for the Zoom/MF gear is contacting the switch control plate on the side of the lens. Turning this control will obviously damage the finish on the switch plate. I've been in touch with Subal on this issue, I'm confident that once they get the lens in their hands they will make the necessary modifications so that this lens will work in their housings properly.