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UWPhotoTech

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Everything posted by UWPhotoTech

  1. There have been some problems with stress cracks in the rear 1/2 of the case on the S&S composite housings. Send it in to us and we should be able to get this covered under warrantee. The other problems sound like minor adjustments that could be included in an annual service on the housing.
  2. If you're buyiing the housing new then it will work with either the VX2000 or the VX2100. If it's a used housing then it depends on when it was purchased. The original VX2000 housing will work with the VX2000, the VX2100 model will work with either. And finally, the PD150 or the PD170 will work with either model housing.
  3. I really like the new control mechanism design for the aperture and shutter speed and the new tray design as well. Although these new designs do look quite familiar! A Magnified Viewfinder option would be a nice addition to this housing. I can't wait to get one in my hands and check it out.
  4. I would not send your's in for repair if it's functioning OK now. Over 95% of manufacturer repairs are farmed out to sub-contractor's who live by a "if it ain't broke" philosophy. You'll still get charged the normal flat rate repair but only a basic tune-up will be done. If you deal with a local Authorized Service Center you can ask them specifically to replace this part for you. But if it were my camera, I would not have it replaced for preventative reasons. The failures, although talked about heavily online are only a small percentage of the camera's sold.
  5. Are we (vendors) allowed to make commercial posts? Mods?
  6. The AE FPC needs to be replaced to solve the problem. Should be n/c if still under warrantee and would be a standard repair charge otherwise. Well worth having repaired. I'd be glad to recommend a service center near you or you can send it to Nikon in CA or NY.
  7. It's not really info Luiz, just my opinion But you're welcome!
  8. As Alex mentioned Subal was first to market with the D2X Housing because they were already shipping the D2H housing. We demo the Subal D2X housing at trade shows with a D2H body installed.
  9. While I've never tried this eyepiece I suspect there would not be enough room between the housing eyepiece and the camera to allow for it's use. Also as the housing eyepiece is designed to work optically with the standard camera eyepiece it may introduce a finder focus problem or not allow full finder view.
  10. Because the front of the lens is too large to pass through the standard extension ring. Using the X type extension ring resolves this problem.
  11. Why we shoot in M or Manual Exposure Mode with a DSLR: A or Aperture Priority Exposure Mode was more useful with TTL based systems where there was communication between the camera and the strobe and the shutter speed lower limit was around 1/60th or so. With the lack of communication between camera and strobe with most DSLR's there is no limit on how slow the shutter speed can go in A mode, the same is true for P or Program Mode. In A mode the camera will meter on the ambient light based on the ISO and Aperture settings and set the shutter speed accordingly. Because the camera has no idea that a strobe is being fired this shutter speed may be very, very slow. The end result will be images that are not sharp due to the slow shutter speed or you may get a ghost image effect with exposures from the ambient light and the strobe being captured on the same image. S Mode or shutter priority make no sense to me for underwater applications. You choose the shutter speed and the camera will choose the aperture based on the ambient light level and the ISO setting. Who would want their aperture (which should be used as a depth of field control tool) changing based on the ambient light.
  12. I don't really think this is Nikon bashing, it's important to know how the coverage works. Personally I don't think it's an issue at at all as most folks won't be in a location long enough for the repair turn around time anyway. Bringing the camera back home and having it serviced is the way to go. For customer's that live outside of the warranty coverage area the equipment would be returned to the purchasing dealer for them to handle the warranty service. Also if you're a working pro, you should be signed up for CPS (Canon Professional Service) or NPS (Nikon Professional Service). This must be arranged with your purchasing dealer and their manufacturer's sales rep. This will guarantee you two to five day turn around time on repairs and in some cases loaner equipment.
  13. Here's the Nikon response: Warranty for Digital SLR's around the world are domestic to the Country of Sale Origin, so if you travel outside the USA, then you would need to wait till returning to have it repaired under the warranty period. Same anywhere else in the world.
  14. I read this message in disbelief, so I pulled a D2X off the shelf and sure enough the warranty is worded exactly as above. I checked a D70s as well and it's worded the same as the D2X. I'm going to contact a friend in the Nikon USA Service department and check into this. FYI, I checked the Nikon F6 and it still has the Worldwide Warranty card.
  15. The Ready Light Pin is "THE" source of problems when connecting manual strobes into an ITTL capable camera, this pin must be disconnected. Your manual strobe should have only the X-Sync (trigger) and Ground pins connected. Of course the bulkhead connected to the SB-800 must have all five pins connected. Now for the difficult part, adding a second strobe when using a Housed SB-800 seems to cause problems with the SB-800's ITTL communication with the camera. You may need to isolate the second strobe by adding a diode into the trigger connection to the second strobe. If there is any feeback from the SB-800 into the second strobe then ITTL will fail. The simplest solution may be so run the second strobe slaved and set to ignore the pre-flash from the SB-800, if possible. If the second strobe fires during the SB-800's pre-flash burst it will influence and perhaps prevent correct ITTL exposure. HTH
  16. I assume this is the WP-DC40 Case that came through our shop recently for a DEPP claim inspection. I was asked to inspect that housing and was of the opinion the damage was caused by severe compression (external force not dive related). The compression most like occurred directly to the diffuser panel and the crack was directly between the two internal support braces for the diffuser assembly. FYI, this is the first WP-DC40 case I've seen with a crack of any kind and we have sold alot of them as well as handling many DEPP claim inspections.
  17. Use the 3 Pin connector. In some cases (Sea & Sea, Subtronic & Inon strobes) we also have removed the Ready Light pin from the hot shoe connector, but I have not seen any issues with Ike strobes yet. If you experience any bizzare problems once the strobes are connected (and submerged) then remove the ready light pin from the hot shoe. In fact I generally only leave the X-Sync & Ground pins just to be sure. For the strobe base plate ULCS makes a version of them specifically for Subal Housings.
  18. I just did a trademark search and D200 was registered by Nikon on July 14, 2005. If previous models are any indication we should see the D200 this fall. This is exciting!
  19. Unfortunately Light & Motion does not have any current plans to offer any new DSLR products.
  20. We normally drill a small vent hole in the Subal rear port caps. For the DP-FE2 port we sometimes place a small handle (hardware store) onto the rear port cap to ease it's removal. The Subal port caps are optional accessories, they don't come with the port unless ordered separately.
  21. But this page says that to use the SB-105 requires "special wiring". But even so this is exciting news, this is the first I've heard of an SB-105 being used with a TTL system. In reading it's also great to see that no internal flash is required to achieve Olympus TTL. I've got to get my hands on one of these and do some testing!
  22. The Auto 2 Setting will only work with pre-flash systems, corded or slaved. The output level is certainly adjusted based on the aperture level setting but if the sensor is not blocked it's also adjusted based on the distance to the subject. If I recall from other posts, Phil is using a DX-5000 which is not a pre-flash system so he must be set to the Auto 1 position.
  23. This is correct, the aperture setting dial is in fact a power level limiter that works in conjuction with the auto thyristor sensor circuit to control the flash output based on the distance to the subject and the aperture of the lens. It's also important to note that this sytem assumes an ISO setting of 100.
  24. The flash meter would be a great test, I look forward to your results, especially comparing with the YS-90 DX. The biggest problem will be in trying to fully mask off the sensor as it' sits behind the flash lens. I expect that there will still be some slight variation in the output level even when masked as best as possible.
  25. The only difference between Auto 1 and Auto 2 is when the flash sync's. Auto 1 is for non-preflash systems and will fire on the first sync signal. Auto 2 is for pre-flash systems and will fire on the second synch signal. This works for corded or slaved connections. When I first read this thread I assumed that blocking the Auto Sensor (top sensor near Sea & Sea logo) the strobe would fire at the maximum output so I did not reply. Then I got thinking about it and felt that the different aperture settings were in fact simply sensitivity levels and would adjust the output level even if the sensor was blocked. So I did some tests and fully blocking the the auto sensor does in fact make the strobe operate similar to the YS-90 DX. A minimum output is given at the 2.0 setting and a maximum output is delivered at the 22 setting.
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