Jump to content

edwin

Member
  • Content Count

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About edwin

  • Rank
    Sea Nettle

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.dirtydivers.net
  1. Tested last week. Lifetime is now 4 dives of about an hour :-) Using 7 cells NiMH, 2100 MAh. Buid circuitry that switches off batt pack wehen reaching 1 volt/cell, but never came to that point. Works great, just a pity my ds-125 quit after 3 days. Will probably have to send it to ike (again).....
  2. Some pictures can be seen at: http://tinyurl.co.uk/kv2w edwin www.dirtydivers.net
  3. Rob's right on the pricing. If you have to buy it all, gets pretty expensive. Short list: Cannister (used one fromOMS, $60), batteries $20, charger $30, electronics to avoid deep discharges $15. This part is ok, but now: sync-cord+manual controller (for flash) $250. All together wil be around $400 or something like that. Can probably be done cheaper if you use other connector & cable types, but I didn't want to make any extra holes in my housing. Besides wanted to switch to the manual controller. Now, off to the red sea in a couple of days :-) :-) Will try to get some pictures on my website one of these days...
  4. OK, finally finished... Did a test last week, lifetime is even better than expected. Did 70 minutes in 8 degrees © water, 80 pictures and still had over 50% left in my batterypack. Ike's manual controller arrived and works perfectly, so don't have to drill a hole in my housing :-) :-)
  5. Thinking about the same concept you use. Right now I'm trying to buy or build something to put the batteries in. Would like the Ikelite case you have but can't get it over here (the netherlands). So I'll have to visit some more shops or make something out of a piece of plastic. No experience in this, so I try to avoid this kind of work. I still have an old ikelite housing, so I took off the flash connector. For my strobe (ds-125) I'll probably buy the manual controller. In this case I can use the existing connector on the housing so I don't have to drill a hole in my housing, which is something I would prefer. Also I can also switch back to the original config whenever I want to. Was curous if 6 cells is enough because on the camera it says 8.4V. If you're desparately looking for a buddy you can always come over of course :-) :-) Water is about 4 degrees © and visibilty after this weekends winds is about 2"
  6. Hi, have you tested it by now? Busy building something similar, so very curious about the results, especially runtime that you achieved.... edwin
  7. hmmm, sounds like a more than reasonable tip for a newbie :-) will do that, just in case!
  8. Thank you all. Think I will follow Karl and use the wa combination all of the time. Edwin
  9. Hi huys, I'm about to order my wce68+port this week. 2 more questions: 1) Do you "tell" the camera there's a wa lens on it (by changing settings to wa-lens) or is it better not to. 2) If you want to use the camera without the wce68, do you have to remove the dome or can you use the stadard lense with the domeport mounted on the housing? Don't know how easy it is to exchange the ports (grequently) on this housing. Edwin
  10. I'm thinking about buying al 19mm+dome for my ike housing. Couple of questions: Don't you think I'll be missing the somewhat longer distance I can use (for sharks f.e.) with my standard lense? Suppose the dome and convert will make it neccesary to get closer which is not always possible. Because the domeport is supposed to worrk with a visual image on a fixed distance will this be used preferably with manual focus? Don't think there's much use for autofocus when the (virual) subject is always on th same distance. If so this woul improve speed and battery life (which is not that long with thjis camera). Distance to virtual image is also for the macro objects? best regards Edwin van Riel www.dirtydivers.net
×
×
  • Create New...