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About btroxell

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  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 7D MkII
  • Camera Housing
    Sea & Sea
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    S&S YS-110A
  • Accessories
  1. Sorry for the delay, Holiday commitments. I have3 never sent anything to Canada so I don't know the best service. I checked the U.S. Postal Service price and it is about $10 more than what I expected for US shipping (USPS First class). I'm not sure that they have a tracking number with this service though and they did not say how long it would take. With the additional postage, I'll sell the YS-110 to you for $95US shipped to Canada. If you want to still by this, my PayPal account is this email address and I will need your full name and address for the custom's sheet. Ben
  2. I'm selling my YS-110 in good shape for $85. There are scuff marks but the strobe works flawlessly. I bought it used and I never flooded it. I'll pay shipping to US. Ben
  3. I'm selling my YS-90DX in good shape for $65. There are scuff marks but the strobe works flawlessly. The batterey compartment did flood a few years back and I sent it in to get repaired. It only needed a new back cover since it is sealed. I'll pay shipping to US. Ben
  4. Selling my Sea and Sea focus ring for a Canon EF100mm F2.8 Macro USM lens- $100. Ben
  5. I'm interested in the Tokina zoom gear; please PM me. Ben
  6. In a similar thread, I showed how I used a vacuum cleaner belt as a gear; it's still works great. Similar Wetpixel thread Ben
  7. Take a look at : http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=31326 and http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15291 Ben
  8. I use the 17-85 lens behind a Sea&Sea fisheye dome port and SX extension with acceptable (to me) results; the edges are relatively sharp. But I do have some problems focusing when zoomed out and up close but it it's probably because I am not using a diopter. If I continue to use this lens I will be buying one. Ben
  9. I make my own gears for a Sea&Sea housing. I went to a vacuum dealer and bought a small 'toothed' belt (I think he said that it was for a handheld Dust Devil). It works great. The teeth don't line up perfedtly but since the teeth are flexible, it's easy for them to jump a tooth with no damage. Below is one ring I made from PVC pipe with a belt as a gear Ben
  10. I was in your position a few years back and ended up buying the o-rings listed above. The problem is that you have to buy so many so I decided to sell 'kits' for $5 to recoup my costs. It was a fun project; I got to talk with people all over the world. But there aren't a lot of people using this housing any more so you will be stuck with a lot of o-rings you can't use. I have a set of them (just the ones used for the buttons and dial) if you want; just email me your address. They are getting old but have been stored in a cool, dark area. I just looked at them and they appear fine but remember, you get what you pay for Also, here is a web site of instructions on replacing them: http://www.digitaldiver.net/lib_docs/PT--015_service.pdf Ben
  11. This weekend I dropped my dome port and got a nasty scratch in it. I read the post about sanding the scratches out but started thinking about first filling the scratches. No body has mentioned (maybe that should be my first clue) filling in the scratches to minimize the amount of sanding/material removal. Cyanoacylate (Super Glue) bonds well with acrylic but I’m not sure about its optical properties and some things I read say that when cyanoacylate gets cold, its bonds weaken and can release. So my question is, has anybody first tried to fill in scratches before sanding them out and, if so, what has been their experience been? Ben
  12. Not a direct answer to your question but just a little more data. When I was getting my setup configured, I only had one strobe so bought the single cable. A little later, I bought a second strobe and set it up as a slave. I had a lot of problems with that configuration so I bought a dual strobe cable. The main problem I had was when shooting wide angle; the slave would not fire. Setting the strobes far apart prevented the slave from sensing the master's firing. Also, I had a few problems with the master and it quit firing on a few dives. Since it did not fire, neither did the slave. With a dual cable, if one doesn't fire, you still have the other strobe. Ben
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