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Everything posted by buddy

  1. I still have one, seldom used and in good condition. sold the housing and the buyer didn't want to buy the ninja since he already had one. the Ninja 2 comes with all original accessories and with the original case. let me know by pm if interested.
  2. i use group mode with AF-C only for wide angle when action is involved, e.g. shark shots. IMO it doesn't really work for macro, best is single servo - single focus point and focus field moved to the "sides*. Focus on the eye and release. Others tried also with AFC and 3D-mode, but that did not work for me either; the 3D selected focus point was not stable / remaining enough when moving the frame for recomposing. If I understand you right you want to increase the size of the focus area, i.e. to make the nose and the eye in focus. Imagine a nudy branch diagonal in the frame from top right to bottom left with its head towards the lens. In this example a larger focus area by a group mode would be contradictory since the 4 group mode focus points might randomly select the eye or the nose of the nudi (probably where contrast is higher) and the one or the other might not be in the same focus plane (depending on DoF). Here you want to focus on the eye and be happy when nose is still in focus too. Alternatively instead of focusing on the eye you could use the good old 1/3 rule, namely get the focus point on the first third of the image (1/3 of total distance from close to far) and hope that both nose and eye are in focus. The user manual says that group mode is more for situations when camera is not able to focus in other modes in order to avoid accidentally choosing the background instead of the subject as such. But best way is to try the different mode when shooting underwater and make your own experiences... regards
  3. Hi, if you want the nose and the eye of a subject in focus simultaneously and especially if the subject is diagonal in the frame, it is probably more a question of DoF and less of the focusing method you are using. Your D850 with a larger sensor as the 7200 with a cropped one gets you less DoF. I am shooting a D850 as well and normally I am using single servo /single focus point but moving around the focus field with the left/right/up/down arrows. You could use a smaller aperture for larger DoF e.g. f/16...22 (on diffraction's expense though) and keep primarily the eye of the subject in focus. Other than that I didn't understand what you are trying to achieve, the attachment is missing.
  4. interesting. But better express the numbers in terms of 1/xxx sec, which is easier to read for photographers. That is full power = 1/300 sec ... -6 = 1/10'000 sec. But thanks anyways. juerg
  5. For Sale Nikkor 70-180mm/f4.5-5.6 with Subal Port The only and classic macro zoom lens from Nikon, out of production nowadays. A very convenient macro lens for reproduction up to 1: 0.7x. AF and/or MF. Comes with a Nikon close-up lens type 5, which gives reproduction up till 1:1. Lens is equipped with zoom gear, manual focus gear and auto-to-manual switching gear. Dedicated Subal port for this lens (out of production now). For port type 4 or 3 (currently type for but also for type 3 when mounted port adapter will be removed). Port for auto or manual focus switching underwater is possible. Both lens and port are in mint condition, used only few times since I am more a wide angle shooter. Used a couple of times in Lembeh Straits. Asking for USD 1'500 (plus shipping cost). Payment cash, bank-wire or Paypal possible. Shipping from Switzerland, worldwide shipping possible.
  6. got my new Subal housing for Nikon D850 Special Edition (Nikon 100th anniversary) finally today. Couldn't resist to post some pictures, ordered in February....
  7. I am going to try the 14-24 f/2.8 on a Subal ND850 with a 65mm EXR and a 9" dome later.
  8. there are 2 dedicated new modules from Subal for Canons, but honestly i don't know whether they are any better since I am a Nikon shooter... check it out here: http://www.subal.com/c71c17/Light_Flash/Flash_electronics.aspx
  9. here you go. The middle part is the sucker of the PCB with the blue little battery underneath. Left is the valve housing, right is the final part if the valve which is screwed into the housing port (M14 as for Subal). Pretty neat isn't it?
  10. forgot to mention above: electronics PCB and small battery is inside the valve, outside of the housing
  11. this is the V5 which is specifically made for housings like Subal's with 2 ports nearby, one to use for the Sentinel the other for e.g. a HDMI connector/cable or in my case for a 'manual flash output turning knob'. After some first hand problems works now very well. Just waiting on the new Subal ND850 now. In front is the electronic vacuum pump (powered by an integrated 9 volt standard battery). Sorry for the low quality of the pic (shot on iPhone for ease and quick...)
  12. now when you are saying it, YES it will But I guess the D850 will get me better images than the now already 4 year old D4s...let's see...
  13. its more than just a yellow one, it's a limited edition Nikon 100 years...Subal 30 years... But will it make me a better uw photographer? Probably not...
  14. just changed my current order into this one! Am I crazy or what?
  15. looks like a Ferrari...LOL...or wasn't there red as the corporate color? wondering whether they let you dive with this paint on theses Bahamian waters with the big fish? LOL !
  16. what ISO settings is required about for the treshers at Malapascua on that specific site for the early morning dive for no flash? And using Auto ISO settings, and if so matrix, spot or center weighted exposure mode? what aperture and shutter speed for a rectilinear wide-angle lens like 16-35mm at FF? Thanks for hints from actual experiences. No guessing please, that I can do myself...
  17. Ha ha and no no not the +10 diopter for the frogy! that's why the adapter is an underwater flip device...for really small stuff it flips on and off for larger ones...I only own the 105 as macro lens, both gives 1:1 reproduction on full frame. But considering the psycho being maybe 5 cm long i could assume that for this a 60 would be better by a lesser distance and thus less water in between to the subject? But, the more difficult thing is probably to find the psycho at all! Have you spotted it?
  18. yes, that is great. It was also an option for me but still being confident that Subal ND850 will arrive; and I am not in a hurry, that helps probably. ND850 is a fantastic housing as I have seen so far, I still have a ND4, but the ND850 is in another league. Probably Nauticam as well (but don't know Nauticam's very well though). Mine will come with 2 Nikonos 5pin flash sockets, with Leak Sentinel V5 (which was developed especially for Subals for smaller outer diameter) and with a special turning knob for manual flash output control on the new V3 flash TTL bracket built-in, both devices on the left side of the housing...yummi. I also ordered a +10 diopter wet macro lens adapter plus holder for the 105mm f/2.8 and port for end of the year when going to Lembeh and Ambon (for the psychodelic froggy...). Btw, I talked to the owner of Subal (Karl Harald) and it looks fine for me after that. No down payments requested. Payment shortly before delivery when announced. keep fingers crossed that all comes good... Now I just need to get a D850 and a 14-24mm; I will try the 14-24 besides the 16-35 which I already have, despite all good reasons from here not to do...
  19. Subal ND850 configured and ordered to my needs. preferred shipment not later than in June, which is ok for me since I will not need it before September this year.
  20. i have just ordered V5 and will get shipment as of next week...but have already the user manual from which I quote the usage instructions. maybe something you didn't follow entirely? 4. Pre-Dive Procedures and Operation 1. Remove the protective cap by unscrewing the cap in a counter-clockwise motion, being sure to hold the Leak Sentinel body to avoid loosening the Leak Sentinel from the camera housing. 2. Press the translucent button on the rubber valve in a downward motion, until the switch clicks, which can be felt by the finger. 3. The red LED will give one long blink, then will start blinking steadily, indicating the circuit is active. At this time, ambient pressure is measured and memorized by the unit. 4. Detach the tubing from the pump cap. Screw the pump cap into the valve body. Attach the tubing back to the pump cap. 5. Start pumping by pulling in and out on the pump handle, or by simply pressing the button in case you are using the electric pump. 6. The LED should start alternating with a red and green LED light. The red and green alternating LED is indicating that a pressure change is detected and the circuit is active. 7. After the number of strokes needed to achieve the proper vacuum, which depends on the housing volume, the green LED will perform one long blink, then keep blinking steadily. Stop pumping after two consecutive green blinks after the long green blink. 8. Detach the tubing from the pump cap and remove the pump cap. 9. Replace and tighten the protective cap. Be sure the protective cap o-ring is lubricated with a small amount of o-ring grease. Now, observe the LED. If the green LED still blinks after 15-20 minutes then no leakage is present and the housing is ready for immersion in water. If the green LED stops blinking and the alternating red-green or red LED starts blinking, there is a leak, so it is not safe for any type of immersion in water. If there is a leak, then a procedure for locating and eliminating the cause of the leak should be followed. Be sure and test the camera housing again with the Leak Sentinel after any repairs are made to the camera housing and/or its o-rings. 10. During the dive, be sure to occasionally observe the LED. If the green LED stops blinking and an alternate red/green or red LED starts blinking, this indicates the rise of internal housing pressure and a possible leak. If there is a possible leak, it is advisable to immediately ascend to minimize the risk of flooding. Be sure to follow all dive safety procedures when ascending! It is advisable to point the housing port downwards to cause any water in the housing to flow into the port and away from the camera and housing electronics. Post Dive Procedures 1. After every dive, rinse and dry the valve body along with the camera housing. There is no need to remove the Leak Sentinel from the camera housing to rinse the housing and/or Leak Sentinel. To remove the Leak Sentinel from the housing during rinsing procedures could cause the housing to flood. 2. Remove the protective cap. 3. Switch the circuit off, pressing the rubber valve button. 4. Gently move the rubber button sideways to equalize the pressure. You will hear the air hissing into the housing as the pressure within the camera housing equalizes with the outside air pressure. When the air pressure starts to equalize with outside pressure the red LED will start blinking. Be careful not to pull the bottom rubber disc from the other side of the lid; if this happens, remove the upper lid and pull the lower disc through the hole, then reinstall the upper cover. 5. Replace the protective cap, being sure the o-ring is greased and clean of debris. 5. Special functions  Temperature compensation The Leak Sentinel V5 has temperature compensation. Temperature compensation means that the circuit constantly monitors temperature changes and compensates for the pressure changes accordingly. This feature eliminates the possibility of false alarms in situations where the housing is set up in a cold environment and used in a warmer environment. No user action for this feature is required; this feature is always on when the circuit is active.  Overnight function The Leak Sentinel V5 offers the possibility of setting up the housing in advance. For instance one might want to set the housing up the night before the dive. To do so, just switch the Leak Sentinel off by pressing the rubber valve on/off button without equalizing the pressure. When the circuit is switched on again, by again pressing the rubber valve on/off button the Leak Sentinel will automatically detect the vacuum, taking the present pressure as a reference, and keep monitoring by blinking green after a brief red blink. --- Maybe that helps.you can get the entire user manual from Miso directly. Hopefully I did not violate any copyrights etc. by posting this abstract here.
  21. what are the chances to see the treasures in Malapasqua actualy? and can u confirm that flash is not allowed?
  22. thank you Tim for the insights. I made a quote request for a slightly dedicated ND850 housing today, but did not yet receive an answer. O well, they are probably busy with the Germany's Boot show right now...
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